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WYTSKY

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About WYTSKY

  • Birthday 31/07/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mooroolbark

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GTS4 rb25de+T
  • Real Name
    Adam

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  1. What Grease/Lubricant to use? Hey Guys, After 23 years of turning the steering wheel it's lost some grease/lubricant from behind the wheel and I can hear/feel the wheel scrubbing the plastic which dismisses the indicators as I'm turning now. I took the steering wheel off, the plastic covers, the indicator and wiper stalk to lubricate everything but found the lubricant Nissan must have used is a type of thick grease? It's honey color, almost putty like, can someone help tell me what do I need to buy? Thanks very much.
  2. Hey guys, final update. Decided to take the car into work this morning (cold morning, stop start traffic for over an hour) used to be the worst scenario to make it hunt and rev a lot. All is perfect. Was great drive in, just purring while stationary the whole way so I'd say it's fixed! I did end up adjusting the fuel cut a bit which is what fixed the last bit of revs issue. So now my settings for Idle on the power fc are: rev limiter 7200 (aircon Off) f/c A/C 1110 (aircon ON) f/c A/C 1100 (Off) idle A/C 900 (On) idle A/C 900 I previously had the 1100 and 1000 I said earlier around the wrong way. So now what happens is high idle from 10 deg->68/69 deg (1500-1700rpm, but smooth), once past 69/70 idles at 900-950rpm. that's it, perfect and smooth. So as a summary the steps I did to solve the problem: 1. Adjusted the TPS to read 0.45v on closed 2. Raised the fuel cut with no air con from 1000 to 1110 Other things that may have helped: 1. Cleaning the IACV with Carby cleaner a couple weeks ago 2. Turning the O2 sensor On/Off to see if the O2 sensor was dead, my sensor is now ON and appears to be fine. Thanks for all the great help as always.
  3. Johnny, thanks, will have a fiddle, I have wondered if that would help. Ad's. appreciate if you could compare values, I know each car will be different but to get an idea if mine is in the ballpark like I did with the TPS would be good. Would it be best to adjust IACV when car is in the hunting rev range or wait until it's at full operating temp? 89Cal, I'm not sure, been so long since it was done, I don't have a datalogit cable to backup the tune/reload otherwise I would do a new idle learn.
  4. Ok so I took it for a decent drive today. Definitely a big improvement. It's hunting less aggressively and the revs aren't dropping as much - instead of dropping from 1500rpm - 900rpm and back and forth it's now only dropping to 1200rpm and back to 1500rpm slower. So what's happening now: 10deg-59deg high idle (1500RPM) stable idle, 59deg-71deg hunting still, but no where near as bad and only 1200rpm-1500rpm, 71deg+ normal stable idle at 900-950rpm. So the questions I have: - Is there a way to adjust that 1500rpm cold idle to sit at 1200rpm when cold to fix the last problem? Where to start - the Idle screw in the IAC? But that would adjust my idle overall. My idle settings in power fc are fine as far as I know : rev limiter 7200 f/c A/C 1100 f/c A/C 1000 idle A/C 900 idle A/C 900 - Should I try to adjust the TPS above 0.45v for idle to bring it up to 1500rpm when idling cold? or safer to leave it where it's at now? -Any other thoughts? I am already much happier with the result and reckon I can live with it now but would be good to fix it overall if it's just a matter of fiddling. Thanks.
  5. Thanks Ads, thought as much but just want to be sure. Dan, I'll check it to rule out. Still haven't had a chance to drive it since adjusting the tps. Will report back once I have.
  6. So I checked and the O2 sensor was enabled, disabled it, made a slight difference, the hunting was less aggressive, as in it didn't rev up and down as quick but it was still doing the same thing so I put it back for now because it didn't stop the issue. Then I used the sensor check on the hand controller and found the TPS idle was a little low for idle. 0.35v closed, 4.18 WOT. I've now adjusted it to be 0.44v closed (every time I got .45 then tightened it moved), and 4.24v WOT. The car is warm so wont be able to check till the morning but when I did turn it on the idle *seems* smoother already. Any issues foreseen with WOT 0.06V+ more then before affecting my tune etc?
  7. Thanks guys, I've cleaned the IACV multiple times, let the throttle body cleaner really get in there and then scrubbed every part of it with cotton ear buds until the buds came out clean ( took like half a pack) let it dry, installed it and no difference. If I'm honest, the only thing i noticed was the hunting was slightly more aggressive then when it was dirty but that was about it. Perhaps buying a second hand one to test with might be needed.
  8. RB25DE+T PFC idle Hey guys, Had this minor annoyance for a very long time, from memory probably since the powerfc was installed and tuned 6+ years ago. Maybe because I'm getting older it's starting to annoying me more. I turn the car on in the morning and idle is high, 1500-1700rpm, but stable. On the hand controller it all looks pretty stable, not sure if idle this high when cold is normal with other powerfc's but so far it doesn't annoy me. As I'm driving around and idling at lights while the car is still warming it's still sitting at 1500rpm, on the hand controller once the water temp gets to about 59-62 degrees it starts hunting, from 1500 rpm down to 900rpm and back and forth every 1-2 seconds and will continue like this until the water temp gets to about 72+ degrees then idle is perfect, 850-900rpm. The only way to control it during this time is let off the clutch a little bit until it bites and slowly lower the revs, then I slowly press my foot down on the clutch again. If I put my foot down too quick on the clutch or roll forward a little the hunting starts again. Only happens when the car has been sitting for a long time, eg overnight or all day and then come back from work and turn it on. If the car gets to operating temp and then I turn it off for 1-3 hours and the engine is still pretty warm no issue, idle is perfect. Now before I start playing with the TPS voltages and mucking around pulling apart things I'm wondering if this is just something in my maps in the low load/idle section that needs adjusting as it only happens for ~10 degrees so I would have guessed the voltages on the TPS are fine? Car has been tuned a number of times many years ago by a very reputable tuner. It happened as soon as I swapped the standard ECU to the powerfc and it has been like this ever since, even with adding in cam gears and a z32 AFM. I have used contact cleaner to clean the AFM and I've cleaned the AAC with throttle body cleaner and ear buds in every little knook but no avail. Any suggestions? I've found this post from long ago which seems almost identical so I'll give turning off O/2 feedback a go (not sure if it's enabled currently or not) but wanted to see if others had the same issue? Thanks.
  9. WYTSKY

    Carzon alarm

    Thanks, I did pull the door cover off the other day while tracing wires thinking it was the actuator, but when I realized I wasn't getting any signal I figure it will be electrical, and it's unlocking perfectly fine, I get a good solid click and the little lock flicks out the whole way to show it's unlocked.
  10. WYTSKY

    Carzon alarm

    Yeh I did, called the mobile and landline listed on the site a couple times yesterday, no answer.
  11. WYTSKY

    Carzon alarm

    Hey guys, I've had a basic Carzon alarm (CZ-600) installed in my car for over a decade and it's worked fine. All of a sudden the central locking has died, only when locking. I know the relays are working (I hear them clicking when I unlock and lock) and the door locking mechanisms are working as when I hit unlock on the remote the doors unlock and if I manually lock the drivers door the passenger side locks. I tested the wires at the back of the control unit and when I click unlock I get 12v on my multi-meter but when I click lock the wire that should get 12v is getting nothing. I wanted to know if anyone has an old unit lying around I can use to test or perhaps sell? Just trying to avoid buying another alarm and doing all the wiring. Thanks.
  12. I've had 2 canaries while my car has been turbo'ed for too low and a few other things while on my P's, never for actually having a turbo (this was back in the power to weight days, and each time I convinced the officer I was under the power to weight) so when I had to get a RWC then go to Vicroads they all just checked the things that were marked on the canary. No one ever questioned should the car have a turbo, were you picked up for having a turbo?
  13. Is true about the gearbox... and yes changing brakes and stud pattern over was costly and annoying so no arguments there
  14. I have one of these hooked up in my 33 GTS4. From what I understand 32's Attessa system has a fuse and electronically engages the 4wd system while 33's have a viscus fluid and the system engages based on slip and the amount of G forces put on the fluid so only the 32s could use the 2wd/4wd switch. I've found it to be pretty good for a simple controller, and certainly does add grip. It simply tricks the Atessa system to think you're slipping - how much R% F% is based on how much you turn up the dial. 10 = 50/50% while 0 = 100%/0% or that 95%/ 5% up front while normal driving, whatever the normal ratio is.
  15. Not sure on a 34 but when I first did the conversion I got 33 GTST injectors (think they are 370cc too), Walbro pump and a GTST ecu, ran 12-14psi off a bleed valve and it was fine. I don't see it as a great investment to put all the work in and miss a few pieces of equipment which limits your boost. I had the same thoughts as you about keeping the car. I like the car, it's clean and well looked after, mine is a GTS4 so I liked the AWD aspect etc so I decided to put the money into it. Provided your car has been looked after and the engine isn't tired you will be able to run more boost then what you are after with the right mods.
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