Levi_

PM sent.

KM on body, engine after rebuild?

Price dropped to $100 each.

Alpine 12" Type S Subwoofer in Black Sealed Box Looking for: $125 Bought brand new in early 2011, well looked after. The speaker itself is in perfect condition, no signs of wear or tear. Has never been pushed hard, should make a great addition to any system. The box was in great condition until I took it out of my car and my cat decided it looked like a scratching post, so you can see in the pictures he managed to tear and lift some of the carpet a little bit, other than that the box is still in good condition. Approximate box dimensions: 430W x 430D x 340H Cadence Xa175.4 - 4 Channel Car Amplifier Looking for: $125 Bought brand new, online from the USA in early 2011. This has been a great amp which was powering 2 x 6" splits and the above sub in my old car. I was really happy with the combination and this amp performed really well. The fan in the amp started making a bit of noise not long before I sold my car, so I've popped it open and replaced the fan with a new one. However I don't have a car to fire it up with and check the new fan is running nice and quiet, so if you're interested feel free to come around and give it a test. 110W x 4 @ 4 ohm RMS, 175W x 4 @ 2 ohm RMS, 350W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged RMS, 1400W Xenith Power Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40 kHz Minimum THD: <0.1%, S/N Ratio: >97dB, Damping Factor: >198 @ 100Hz, Channel Separation: >50dB More information on the amp can be found here: http://www.cadencesound.com/products/XaH175.4.html (please note that the bottom section of "H" improvements don't apply as this is the older Xa model) General Information Both items were bought brand new in 2011, they spent their whole life in my Subaru Outback. Unfortunately my Outback suffered massive engine failure so I sold it for parts last month. Due to the heavy nature of both items shipping is probably not going to be feasible. So both items are available to pickup from my house in Joondalup, Western Australia. If you do really want something posted, you can organise a courier. You're welcome to test both items if you come up to take a look at them.

Alpine 12" Type S Subwoofer in Black Sealed Box Looking for: $110 Bought brand new in early 2011, well looked after. The speaker itself is in perfect condition, no signs of wear or tear. Has never been pushed hard, should make a great addition to any system. The box was in great condition until I took it out of my car and my cat decided it looked like a scratching post, so you can see in the pictures he managed to tear and lift some of the carpet a little bit, other than that the box is still in good condition. Approximate box dimensions: 430W x 430D x 340H Cadence Xa175.4 - 4 Channel Car Amplifier Looking for: $110 Bought brand new, online from the USA in early 2011. This has been a great amp which was powering 2 x 6" splits and the above sub in my old car. I was really happy with the combination and this amp performed really well. The fan in the amp started making a bit of noise not long before I sold my car, so I've popped it open and replaced the fan with a new one. However I don't have a car to fire it up with and check the new fan is running nice and quiet, so if you're interested feel free to come around and give it a test. 110W x 4 @ 4 ohm RMS, 175W x 4 @ 2 ohm RMS, 350W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged RMS, 1400W Xenith Power Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40 kHz Minimum THD: <0.1%, S/N Ratio: >97dB, Damping Factor: >198 @ 100Hz, Channel Separation: >50dB More information on the amp can be found here: http://www.cadencesound.com/products/XaH175.4.html (please note that the bottom section of "H" improvements don't apply as this is the older Xa model) General Information Both items were bought brand new in 2011, they spent their whole life in my Subaru Outback. Unfortunately my Outback suffered massive engine failure so I sold it for parts last month. Due to the heavy nature of both items shipping is probably not going to be feasible. So both items are available to pickup from my house in Joondalup, Western Australia. If you do really want something posted, you can organise a courier. You're welcome to test both items if you come up to take a look at them.

The 245's on mine might as well be bike tyres, taking off at lights on a hill is a challenge.

Great! if she has any other questions, feel free to ask.

I'll try my best to come down and shoot a few pics, maybe even do a video. Great, just let me know your car numbers and I'll dig up any of the shots I have. I didn't think the rain would last very long, so I stood there trying to wait it out. Needless to say, both my camera and I got very wet. Thank god for weather sealing! For the panning shots, get a decently long lens (150mm or more) set your camera to Tv (shutter speed priority mode) then set your shutter speed to somewhere around 1/150th of a second. Set your cameras focusing mode to continuous/sports/servo and then as the cars drive past, pick a spot on the car (I usually use a headlight or door mirror) and try to pan with the car keeping a focus point over that part of the car. Then, pick and choose your shots (don't just machine gun for the whole pass or your camera will probably struggle to get good focus and you'll find it hard to track the motion smoothly). When I'm feeling brave (or I'm using a lens with IS) I'll go as far as 1/60th of a second, but usually I find myself hanging around 1/100th. Depends on your budget, but the 70-200mm f/4L IS is great for motorsports (image stabilization makes things much easier). if you're looking for a little more reach, try the 300mm f/4L IS or 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS.

Thanks guys. I shot with my 5D Mark II and a 70-200 f/4L for most of the day, though I used Steve's 300mm f/4L IS for a little bit in the afternoon. Next round I'll make the effort to borrow some big toys.

Oh great stuff, glad you like them! I should really make the effort to come along to some more events, it's been ages since I've done anything with SAUWA!

As I'm sure a lot of you know, WADRIFT Round 1 was on at Barbagallo Raceway this weekend. It was a great day of drifting, even though we had a little bit of rain later in the day and as usual Steve and I were out in the sun shooting photos and video. I've just finished putting the photos up and Steve will be working on the video editing through the week, though no promises on when it'll be done. As always, all photos are available as prints or high resolution digitals and we've got additional photos of most cars that didn't "make the cut" if you're interested. Prints are available anywhere from 6x4" right up to 30x48", so if you're interested you can email us at [email protected] - we're still working on putting together a full online ordering system at the moment, so email is the way to go! You can see the full gallery here, but here are some highlights:

The uneven power would be down to needing a retune, the AFC Neo is only a piggyback and it can only do so much. Only costs about $150 for a retune on a piggyback like that, so take it down to a workshop and they'll be able to help you out there. Knocking is probably the front arm bushes, there's one on each side (front tension arm I think it is) that is really common to wear, should be able to get a workshop to sort them out. Just have a look under there, it's easy to tell if they're leaking/split/worn.

Seeing as this has been dragged back up I had a look at some numbers. V8 Super Car 620 - 650 BHP 460 ft/lbs 1355 KG Mines R34 GTR 580 - 600 BHP 432 ft/lbs 1540 KG * * I couldn't find a proper weight value for the Mines GTR, so I used the numbers from the N1 R34 GTR Nur VSpec II because the Mines GTR doesn't really seem to have much in the way of weight saving parts beyond some carbon fibre aero parts. So, while I'd love for the GTR to be faster, there's really no way. Unless maybe it was pissing down with rain and they were both on the same race tyre -- even then it's a long shot.

Nope, it'll be the BOV. It's probably one of the most asked questions around here, atmo BOV's cause stalling issues in skylines. You can either plumb it back, get a ECU that can cope with the missing air or put up with the stalling.

Calm down johnnnnnyboi, most of the negative posts in here are sarcasm, unfortunately it doesn't translate very well over the internet. Turbo cars tend to get very warm engine bays, but then again so do all cars, even more so with any 'performance car'. It's still summer y'know? If you're that concerned about it, take it to a decent workshop that deals with imports (plenty around) and pay them to do a service and check-up, but most likely things are normal and your car is fine.