Gerg_R31

Slight update acid bathed rb26 head, removed valve springs and vacuum tested (to make sure the valves seal on the seats) it got 100% Will be chucking new valve stem seals on it tonight injectors were cleaned/ flow tested and they showed that they are not usable, 4 injectors are stuck open (which would explain the over fueling issue i had)

Vk56 at its widest point is 26.5" these only came out with an auto behind them There is also the reluctor wheel mounted to the flex plate there is an adapter plate and clutch kit available off the shelf to match a 370z manual there is also the height, custom manifold defiantly will be needed there is also the sump which holds oil vertically at the rear of motor, instead of the horizontal like the RBs (this was to fit the front diff in front of it so it would fit in the Nissan titans On top of that, not much room for the turbos they also came out at 9.8:1 (some with corn based eflex) 2007+ = cvct timing chain also has been known to jump at high revs US guys claim 17mile/gallon with their n/a Ecu? 370z use same computer pistons Google gtm cams Google Jim wolf technology (s2/s7 s2vct s8 or s8vct most popular (costs 2k long motor 1k 370z box 1,200 adapter plate 1,200 flywheel/ clutch kit 1,500 cams 300 springs 2-3k importing costs 1,200 pistons 6k stillen supercharger kit then once here 5k+ fabrication End result probably around 450-500hp edit; Just noticed the dates, sorry for mega post bump lol

wow never noticed that, thanks for pointing that out (i'll look into getting that changed by a mod or something) but yeah, ARP bolts have always turned up in a box for me with settings that either say 60 or 65

All the arp main stud kits I used at work were all 60 or 65ft as stated on the spec sheet they came with

Bump To add; once again, prices are set, no low balling offers via pm or in person will be accepted, i don't care what your situation is, get a loan if you only have X amount to spend, or if your having money problems then buying parts may not be the best thing for you and to those that want to low ball for the novelty of it, go suck a fat one Questions I've been getting; 3.2; "why should i buy this when the spool kit is cheaper?" because Nitto didn't have their kit designed for budget boy racers who circle jerk with their friends over it, its designed and proven on the race track/ drag strip also to answer the "what compression ratio are the pistons?" the rb30 block has a 10cc dome, the 3.2 has a 5cc dome Google "compression ratio calculator" and enter in the rest of the measurements of your motor

VL-t box sold

Vl-t box and clutch possibly sold, pending pick up arrangements

Mrstabby - your right about some cheaper stuff that has a "that will do" attitude during manufacturing processes yup extra reciprocating weight and cylinder pressures (including spikes from detonation) can also put extra stress on the crank, rod bolts and main bolts I usually find Nissan rb rods have around 0.006" plus bearing crush, which is a decent amount for high rpms Bearings will also spin from heat fatigue where they loose their bearing spread (which is that firm fit you get from putting the bearing shell in) All the fun of pushing power/rev limits of motors

What a lot of people don't know is power out put has nothing to do with rods, its the rpm, rods and more often rod bolts stretch at high rpm, this is where bearings spin as they loose their bearing crush GTSBoy is right with people buying stuff that they don't actually need, a set of arp rod bolts around $150, then shot peening followed by a close and hone big ends to strengthen rods, but for not much more you can buy after market rods to add, precision, spool, eagle manly etc all made in same place, they just sell in bulk to different wholesalers

Unless your going over 6000rpm then factory rods and rod bolts will do the job fine if you are going over 6000rpm, then get a set of nitto rods, a lot stronger and about $50 - $100 more

buy my shit

Amazing this hasn't sold yet, tax time is soon

I'll throw in a little sales pitch here NITTO's RB30 Stroker kits 4340 Grade Billet Steel Fully Counter Weighted Undercut Counter Weights Knife Edged Nitrided Finish Fully Balanced CONNECTING RODS 4340 Grade Billet Steel I-Beam Construction Quality Oversize 7/16” ARP 2000 Series Bolts Oil Squirter Galleries from Big End Oversize 22mm Little End PISTONS JE / NITTO Produced Quality Forged T6 2816 Alloy Low Silicone Content Contact Reduction Grooves Accumulator Groove Thick Wall 93 Series Nickel / Carbon Steel Alloy Pins JE Pro Seal Premium Ring Se Increased stroke from 85mm to 90mm which is the peak of stroke increasement for making power efficently Engine capacity is increased from 3.0Ltr to 3.2Ltr (which provides more power and torque whilst still retaining a strong ability to rev and produce horsepower at high RPM) Crankshaft is made from solid 4340 billet steel, 4340 one piece forged billet steel I-beam connecting rods and JE/Nitto forged piston set along with upgraded thick wall gudgeon pins and premium gas treated ring sets. All components have been meticulously machined to exacting tolerances and the highest standards. All Nitto stroker kits are far superior and track proven compared to the cheaper manufactured kits currently available that consist of cast crankshafts, and unfinished H-beam connecting rods. NITTO's RB30 Stroker kits are designed for use in all motorsport classifications including drag racing, drifting and circuit racing. Rotational capability is lifted to 10,000 + RPM and power handling is rated to 1600 HP. The changed harmonics due to the crankshaft material, counter weights and knife edging design, results in a much “freer revving” more balanced engine. Continuous testing and development on and off the track has allowed us to design a kit with extreme strength whilst retaining a sensible reciprocating mass weight so there's a perfectly good reason why the nitto 3.2 should be powering your skyrine

bump for go fast bits (no, the 20 speed FnF gearbox' dont actually exsist )