Jaredo

Hey mate, would you be willing to post the fuel rail at all?

I managed to fix my issue of rapid (instant on off, 1-2sec on to off, and long pauses between cycles) and random cycling of the AC even when the rest system checks out (right amount of gas, oil, dual pressure switch and climate control diag is ok), There are a fair few mentions of the AC Thermo Amp being a possible culprit, I pulled mine apart to (they actually do come apart) to find a bulging capacitor. Replaced it and now it's back to awesome icy goodness and cycling normally. You can get it out without degassing. Your mileage may vary, this might not fix your issue, but it's worth a try if you have checked everything else. Capacitor size: 33uf 25V (uf = microfards), get a 105deg rated one - 45cents at JayCar. The temp rating of the stock part is 85deg. 1. If you pull the glove box out, then remove the panel behind it you can access the fan motor and evap core. Directly in front of you, you should see a connector with 2 thick wires and a thin wire going into it (this is the FAN resistor). If you look upwards from that to the top of the box you should see another connector and black small black box. 2. Remove the connector and then get a large headed flat screwdriver and pry it up from the right side towards the left-hand side of the car it should then come loose, if not stick your hand up there and pull it forward. I already removed it by the time I took this photo and also didn't put it back. But it shows where its located. Follow the cable up to the top of the evap box, use your sense of feel to find the little plastic holders from which you just slide the cable out of, do both so you can get some length. Follow the cable some more and it'll go inside the box, use your fingers to remove some of the sealant if possible Ref this picture to see how it's laid out. 3. Remove spring clip and 2 screws from the front of the unit, remove two large screws below the unit, there's one near the fan motor and one to the right of the sloping drain part. 3a. Remove the large screw to the left of where the thermo amp was. 4. Pull the bottom half box down a little, the seam should open up, you'll notice the evap core will also want to come down also. Find something to keep the gap open unless you have strong hands. It should look like this 5. Locate the temp probe on the right side of the evap core, the probe is on a clip that's just pushed into the fins If you can get your hand in there, pull it out, else use a screwdriver try and lever it out. Careful you don't puncture the evap core 6. Once out, remove the clip so you can pull it out through the top. Gradually pull the cable trough the top of the box till it comes out. 7. Once you have the control amp out crack it open, you'll probably have to break the outside case where the locking tabs are (locking tabs don't depress), use a really small or thin screwdriver. Once that is done, slide the cover backwards a little. 8. Inspect the capacitor, the ends might be rounded instead of flat or it might look like it's buldging at one end and seeing as its going on 15+years it's probably at the end of it's life. Desolder the old one, Solder the new one in. Note the polarity, Negative is to the back of the board, positive at the front (there are also marks on the PCB). The capacitor will have it's negative leg clearly marked. 9. Test it before putting the system back together, leave the evap box open, and reconnect anything you disconnected. Leave the probe on the floor or something. Run the car and AC, your AC should engage and should stay engaged. If it worked then hurray! Put it back together. if not, then the issue is somewhere else or the AC control amp is dead dead. If you have a multimeter that can accept a temp probe (K Thermocouple) you'll be able to check what temps the AC control amp cycles between. Mine cycles between 9.8 and 13deg C, that's plenty cold lol. Ambient temp: 35.8deg C AC compressor off at: 9.8deg C (Air vent temp, disengages around this temp) AC compressor on at: 12-13deg C (Air vent temp, engages around this temp) I really hope this helps others with the same issue, it's been a very tricky issue to resolve.

Something to do with the fuel pump, some sort of idle and off idle speed control. I remember seeing this one when I was replacing the suspension a few years back. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/137043-fuel-pump-control-module-dropping-resistor/ HICAS ECU.

I'm interested the shocks but I need the rears(well only need 1 as a temporary stand in while I send the Bilstien away to get rebuilt), Would you split the rears and post? Thanksm

Hi, Would you separate the rear shock absorbers out? Are they stock shocks with pedders springs. Just I need 1 rear shock to put in while I send one of the Bilstiens away to get rebuilt. Thanks,

Not a Nissan OEM part. but Viscous Fan Clutch Davies Craig Part# 5265. Available through Repco @ $180 with trade discount.

Same here, got a Series 2 HICAS ECU to put in my Series 1. Works flawlessly. Yet to take it for a drive but no lights no matter how much its turned off and on again. Opened the Series 2 ECU to check for any leaky caps and the internals are completely different, Its now just 1 PCB instead of 2 in the Series 1. The green transistor/power regulator is now a black NEC unit. The other 2 chips on the heatsink look the same. Still 3 caps near where the green transistor/power regulator was. The two huge chips on the 2nd board in the Series 1 are now in a incredibly small package the size on your thumb. Must of been redesigned for a reason . Some of the capacitors on the Series 2 board look like the bottom plug is being pushed out slightly. From what I understand that means gas is building inside and eventually they will pop their vents(silver top with 3 impressions) or fail eventually. I'm interested in trying to mend the Series 1 ECU, its stuffed anyway but its worth a try. Did you end up getting a Series 1 or 2 ECU, Stitch?(livicuru was selling me one aswell) EDIT: You must be able to Calibrate the steering angle sensor during diagnostics. I got into diagnotic mode, got codes 22 and 23. I steered full lock left - rear wheels went opposite, then back to 'neutral' front wheels straight for 2 seconds, then full lock right for a few seconds. then back to center. Then the car starts rolling side to side a little wtf? and I notice the rear wheels literally doing a boogie. On its own it was going full right and full left(They move move quite alot more than 1 deg for sure) and my dash led was constant quick flashes indicating a normal condition(error free).

Its fine if you only had 1 bolt, I'll just run down to Bolt & Steel and match a set of newy's. Thanks.

interested in the exhaust heat shield. Did you have the bolts to hold the shield on? If so I'll take it & postage to 4711. Cheers Jared.

Would you have the LHS glass window seal that's on the car, the window seals against it when you close the door - in good condition, no cracks ect. Sorry not sure what you call it. I'd like the drivers side as well if both are in good condition and the price is right. Cheers, Attached this photo so you have an idea what I'm talking about.

And with the alarm within 1m of your head its frikn loud as fk lmao. Remember having to change the battery in my old car and forgot that key much fun. With the battery backup sirens, its quite painful doing any battery disconnecting without being able to turn off the siren.

It works quite well apparently. Yet to try it on my R33 though, next on the list.. My lights aint heaps bad though just a about half the RHS light.

Hey mate, Would you have the LHS glass window seal - its attached to the chassis and the glass seals against it. Is it in good condition, not perished or cracks?. I'd like the drivers side aswell if both are in good condition and the price is right. Photo of what im talking about.

Hey mate, Would you have the drivers side power window switch trim and coin holder? for a 2DR. And the LHS glass window seal thats on the car and the window seals against it when you close the door - in good condition. Sorry not sure what to call it . Cheers.

You wouldn't have the LHS door window seal. Eg the one attached to the car that the glass presses against?