wht510

Heya Stabby man. Yes, your thought process is along mine aswell. I thought it was a vacuum leak somewhere initially, and found a hose that I thought was causing the problem that was going to the OEM ECU boost sensor, but after replacing said tube, the issue is still there. Now working with my local trusted mechanic, I have had plugs replaced , the issue still exists. I am currently using 'Hanshin' coils from Ebay (supposedly the same as OEM...) and currently suspect these may be causing the issue. Does anyone have a cheap way of buying OEM Nissan coils. Currently Kudos Motorsport have them for $136.40 (NIS-22448-AL61C) The frustrating thing with this is it's intermittent. The car will idle fine, but then all of a sudden miss and stumble. The only reliable thing is when it's under load it will miss. Thinking this is coils currently.

I'm still having this issue. I've checked all the plugs, replaced all the coils (thinking it was a bad coil and I had done 150K on them...) For some reason it's an intermittent fault. It happens when the car is idling (cold), feels like it's missing, but it's not regular. Then under full throttle (so boost) it will miss regularly. No fault codes, no engine light. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Is it going to be easy to sneak an intercooler in there?

It is interesting, the dynamic currently. I think with the camera/database and automated method of checking number plates, they already know what kind of driver you are (speeding fines, previous defects, how often you have been to the toilet today, etc.) Any flags and they go for it. So they already know you and your car. Otherwise, it's probably discretionary..... "Quiet day Sergeant isn't it? Yep, OH, there's a Datsun 1600, used to have one of them...let's pull 'em over and see what's under the bonnet...." "Cheeesuss... Must go alright?....." "Seems like a nice respectful bloke, let's give him a random breath test and let him go..." Is usually what I get.

That 86 moves well. What sort of power you putting out?

Anyone got one of these unreliable OEM boost senders? I haz gauges that have no sender... Plug and loom would be handy too...

Only as good as your right foot...

Was doing a bit of searching and found this: https://rdmechanicalshop.com/2015/12/22/m35manual/ Looks like using the 350Z gearbox for RWD and shifting the starter motor (G35 US) over to the other side works well. Anyone contemplated using the R33 GTR box or R34 GTR 6 speed Getrag for the AWD action?

Can anyone confirm the part numbers for Ignition Coil packs for the VQ25DET for the NM35 Stagea? 22448AL615 22448AL61C Hitachi part: HEXEXA3103N Supposedly there is a difference between the turbo and non turbo versions?

I am having a similar issue, but it's only missing under load. When it starts making boost, it seems that it starts to have a miss. The interesting thing is I ended up getting a fault code a couple of times indicating a coil issue before this missing under load started, which I have cleared, reset, dropped the power from the battery and everything goes back to normal. The coil issue would only happen after leaving the car for a while, starting and then it would run rough (like one cylinder was down), then all of a sudden come good, but the engine check light would come up.

For those who are following at home: http://aimss.com.au/full-story-competition-harness-life-extension/

Good write up. Order is pretty much right. So if you are going to try this at home, I suggest leaving at least 5-6 hours, which includes a bit of swearing, dropping tools/bolts and stuff in general and degreasing everything. Those bolts at the back of the plenum are sure to be broken once you have a crack at them with the 10mm spanner/socket. So get a few spare for this job. Squirt a bit of WD40 before you consider doing this job! Probably crack them when the manifold is hot!

Right here is some digging: Over in NZ they have a listing for an NS40L which is a 330CCA (if you get a beefy one it's about 380CCA). I think this is the standard size. Dimensions for this are: L = 187, W = 127, H = 220. Terminals are 10mm (diameter??) and on the correct side. The recommendation to upgrade in CCA size is the following: NS60L (Exide part number X60CPMF, or 60CPMF, Century NS60LSX MF, or NS60LS MF) This is a 450 or 480CCA battery with dimensions being: L = 237, W = 128, H = 222. Terminals are the same as above Interestingly, this is the same battery as a Nissan Tiida 2000-2006.

Curious to know if a Nissan 350Z battery would fit in an NM35 VQ25DET?

Does anyone have the part number(s) for a seal kit for the front brake calipers? I rang nissan up and they quoted a part number: AY600NS013. This is 2-3 weeks from Japan! Surely this should be the same seal kit as the 350Z? Another website was quoting 41120-AL525, but I have been told this is for a Nissan Juke.