WOO32

Hi all does anyone have an RB25det head laying around and want to sell it?? Or know of a wrecking yard in melbournes northern suburbs? In need of one for my R33. Cheers Paul.

Hi all, I am about to start a rb20det stroker project and i just cant seem to find what im looking for. Heres a quick run down of what i have. RB20det- full engine just very worn out and smokie( but sorta still runs) RB25det- crank, rods and pistons (A1 condition) Rb25 head (complete) A1 condition.. i've read a lot of posts about people using RB25 Crank, rods and I think 4agze pistons to make an RB21 or RB23 im guessing, i cant exactly remember what combination that makes. My questions are has anyone ever gone all out using The full bottom end from an Rb25? and does that even work or be compatible? an other idea i had was using the rb25 crank rods and Standard RB20 pistion. second question. i was also thinking of using the rb 25 head mainly because of the variable cam timing. is it easy to adapt? apart from what i can see an extra oil port near the front of the head. i was just thinking of doing an rb25 conversion to my R32 but i cant let all these parts go to wast lol and i love engine project. Third and final question.would anyone have a copy of a map i could use for this engine so once i do get it all complete, she wont run lean and melt. Cheers

Hi all, I am about to start a rb20det stroker project and i just cant seem to find what im looking for. Heres a quick run down of what i have RB20det- full engine just very worn out and smokie( but sorta still runs) RB25det- crank, rods and pistons (A1 condition) Rb25 head (complete) A1 condition.. I have read a lot of posts about people using RB25 Crank, rods and I think 4agze pistons to make an RB21 or RB23 im guessing, i cant exactly remember what combination that makes. my questions are has anyone ever just gone all out using The full bottom end from an Rb25? and does that even work or be compatible?? an other idea i had was using the rb25 crank rods and Standard RB20 pistion second question. i was also thinking of using the rb 25 head mainly because of the variable cam timing. is it easy to adapt? apart from what i can see an extra oil port near the front of the head. i was just thinking of doing an rb25 conversion to my R32 but i cant let all these parts go to wast lol and i love engine project. Third and final question. would anyone have a copy of a map i could use for this engine so once i do get it all complete, she wont run lean and melt. Cheers

Couple of questions for u. Is the oil milky?? does ur coolent look like it has a slight oil patten going though it?? if u take off the centre cover were ur coil packs sit, and look at them while the engine is running at night time can u see sparks jump or it look like a pretty christmas tree?? the petrol u got wasnt from a "no Name" petrol station was it?? i only ask these questions because i had a very simular issue with mine about a year ago. i hadnt driven it for about 2 month started her up and felt like a truck that was 50years old..but i kept on driving it for a few weeks then my head gaskit went. once that was fixed she was fine..

HI all, just another update, i changed the ECU and Afm and problem stopped YAY!....Ooo, well i thought :-( after about a week of constant driving once again the issue came back up so i had the old afm and ecu sent away for check, came back with a report and part of the report said "look for yourself".. so i did. cracked her open and and noticed half the tracks on the main board were burnt,blown off and half lifted from the circuit board. looked at the afm and noticed the same thing.. very very wierd. once i cracked open the replacement ecu i noticed the same thing... Now my hunt is directed more to a short out somewhere. voltage/current spikes but im starting off with a new regulator/brushes for the alternator Peace Paulie

Hi all, just an up date, i have tested many different parts on the cas, afm, ecu, coils, aac, tps. u name it ive tried it, i started back tracking all wiring through out the car.. i came accross heaps of cut wired that were re-joined or taped up, taped off wired from the previous owner.. there were way to many wires to fix so i got a wiring loom from a wrecker and tried that.. unfortunatly still no luck. im stumped!! lol i have never let a car get the best of me but this car is really trying my patients.. but im not going to give up. ill keep u all updated on my progress! wish me luck.

Hi all Just updating everyone, ok aac valve cleaned put back in and still the same thing, looked at the afm its a pink label one just going to try a second one and see how she goes. as for "The bit that makes it confusing is where you said the engine keeps running, so then i would assume the cutting out would be a massive loss of power. This could then be something like an O2 sensor possibly. If the car stalls & has an erratic idle its most likely the AFM for sure" its very intermitant sometimes she will cut out for not even a second but other times it can cut out for a good 3-4 seconds sometimes once this happens if u put the clutch in it will stall strait away and other times it wont. i know very confusing and fustrating at the same time! does anyone know if the pink lable afm's are good or common for issues??? question for "cmoney", with ur r32 what issues are u having with that, my 32 has a wierd surge issue, eg. if u floor it, 1 gear is fine revs out nicely but, second gear, thrid and fourth have this wierd stumbling or hesitation at a few points above 3000rpm right out to redline.

but doesnt the aac valve just make the idle raise if its cold. not make the engine cut out while cruzing along? but worth a shot anyway

i have checked all vaccume hoses.i have tried to disconnect the tps the only thing i noticed was once i hit throttel is more of a flat spot at lower revs but the car kept on running untill the issue happend again. i had a quick look over the air flow meter and it looked fine checked all pins inside the unit and cleaned everything i could see with contact cleaner, at one point i thought maybe the ignition module but i cant find one anywhere i know what they look like coz i have one on my r32 and my mates series 2 r33 has it in the same place as mine but then i heard that that model doesnt come with that module so i eliminated that..

Hi all, im writing on behalf of a mate with this issue. she has a 33 series 1, that cuts out randomly while she is driving or stalls if ur stoped, i have looked over all the entire car tested everything from fuel, to coils, to cas(hard to test if its intermitant), afm, etc but cant seem to put my finger on it. the cutting out whilst driving feels more like someone turns the key off for a few seconds then turns it back on, or it will just be completely dead with ur foot down to the ground to the point u need to pull over and wait, but the engine keeps running..if u give it a couple of revs and wait it turns off, same thing with pulling up at a set of lights, put the clutch in come to a stop and with in lets say 10 second it will be like turning off the key. its very hard to explain, so hopefully this sounds right. the only problem im having is the fact its very intermitant. eg, she could drive around for a week or so and not have it happen once but then there are some case's that it will happen 100 times within 10 mins, we have tried mechanics and for some reason once the car gets to a work shop it doesnt happen so they look at us straing. can anyone help

most of the time just find the closest jaycar store and buy some electrical contact cleaner, but let it dry for a good 30 mins before putting it back in once cleaned it should be ok, but if not try changing ur afm if that works but u still have some hesitation on take off also try to change ur "tps" but 90% sure its ur amf good luck.

hopefully it works but for me it only helped clean up the rev range but still not running 100% change ur cas. i changed: coils,plugs, fuel pump,afm, coilpack loom,ecu, and still nothing, but as i changed each item she started feeling more and more like a real car, then i changed the cas and she was fairly clean through the rev rang but i still have the odd cut out here and there + a wierd slight surge feeling while under boost. Any other ideas??

by the sounds of it ur thermostat is faulty, she should stick around the half mark but seeing that were on cooling system issues does anyone know what temp the right "opperating temp" should be? i just did a thermo fan conversion and im not sure if 85c (when the fans kick in) is the optimal temp.coz ever since then she seems to be using more fuel...

Hi all, I know you should search for the information and ask more questions instead of opening up a new topic but i cant seem to find what im looking for Now to cut to the chase I have a 93 r32 gtst rb20det, pod, cat back system, and ARC front mount intercooler had the common spitting issue at higher rmp because of old coils, i have replaced;coils(splitfire)new plugs (gapped at 1.05), ignitor, cas, fuel pump(wallbro 255lph) O2 sencor.i changed all these parts because mainly because they were ideas i thought might clear her up, and she is still spitting at around 5,500 and up to the red, i have tryed different gaps in the plugs + a second set, different coils etc, once she spits once or twice it clears up and pulls ok but then feels like its surging under load, boost starts to drop back from 10psi down to 8 by red line, i cant seem to find the issue, if i try to adjust my timing back to the original marks on the cas she runs like an old dog with really bad gas(backfires) and no power above 4gs, has anyone ever had this issue or could lead me in the right direction, changine the coils help clear it up but still No how she should run cheers paul

Hi all, I know you should search for the information and ask more questions instead of opening up a new topic but i cant seem to find what im looking for Now to cut to the chase I have a 93 r32 gtst rb20det, pod, cat back system, and ARC front mount intercooler had the common spitting issue at higher rmp because of old coils, i have replaced;coils(splitfire)new plugs (gapped at 1.05), ignitor, cas, fuel pump(wallbro 255lph) O2 sencor. and she is still spitting at around 5,500 and up to the red, i have tryed different gaps in the plugs + a second set, different coils etc, once she spits once or twice it clears up and pulls ok but then feels like its surging under load, boost starts to drop back from 10psi down to 8 by red line, i cant seem to find the issue, if i try to adjust my timing back to the original marks on the cas she runs like an old dog with really bad gas(backfires) and no power above 4gs, has anyone ever had this issue or could lead me in the right direction, cheers paul