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Kinkstaah

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Kinkstaah last won the day on March 26

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About Kinkstaah

  • Birthday 22/01/1981

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  1. The blitz does require cutting on the front reo to actually fit the thing. Sadly I had to. Any intercooler can "Support" 300kw. The issue is how much it dissipates the heat. I'm yet to really see any back to back where someone will do say, 30 continuous pulls and then compare the heatsoak between the different intercooler setups, which is what an intercooler is really for. It heavily depends on your use case to determine which one is going to work. Typically speaking though you can't really go too big, or have too much cooling, so everyone generally fills the gap with the biggest thing possible (in terms of the actual intercooler core).
  2. Ye, _how_ did you travel those 109km? I mean if you're doing a track day on E85, 109km is something like three full tanks of fuel Without data logs, can't say anything. Without the ability to change the tune, can't say anything either, you either have a huge leak, a very rich tune, or a very heavy foot or a combination of all of those.
  3. This is what I was getting to with regards to the whole N/A V8 thing. A dyno shows the result as much worse, but in terms of how 'alive' the car feels afterwards, it's night and day, better in every way, there's no copium, I prefer my 280kw setup over my 430kw setup. This was me doing predictions before I did the swap, I make about ~10kw more everywhere than the blue line, but chalk and cheese in terms of liveliness. I understand what Lithium is trying to say with his dyno graphs that look mostly the same in his case, but one is vastly superior in the real world. The blue line looks laughably bad on the dyno graph in my case, which really highlights the point. People absolutely, absolutely, completely underrate how important transient response is to how much fun a car is, how it feels, and how much you can trust a car, which means you can drive the thing faster, and if you are going faster and using 70% of the throttle, and trusting, and pushing, it's a far more fun, complete, and faster experience than feeling like you can't go beyond 50% of your throttle use but damn your dyno plot looks great.
  4. Yeah, I mean the only photo I have seen is my own one, and looking at the ramp angles it FEELS like it's even front and back. The Nismo Pro being an adjustable uneven-ramp-1.5-way diff that-is-adjustable-ontop-of-that seems to account for everyone's experiences here.
  5. I mean, the S15 has the same subframe as a R chassis, and had a Nismo diff in it. I'm confident that most people who think they have a "1.5" way diff just have a 1 way diff. I remain unconvinced unless they pull it apart and check. I have heard the PRO nismo is far less harsh but I mean not many people have driven them all back to back. It was absolutely not a nice little race car skip (like the GR Yaris I had which had 2x Mechanical diffs in it), it was more like someone hitting something with a hammer in the boot. (Or bad axle tramp). more BANG BANG BANG in slow, lound sounds than a skt-skt-skt of a locking diff. Interestingly, it was more skt-skt-skt on throttle. I have a helical now and I love it. If it dies, I'll find some kind of wavetrac or 370z quaife solution or god knows what. Or maybe drive a mechanical I HAVE DRIVEN before I buy another one blindly :p
  6. Do you like axle tramp? Every time the clutch is out and you're off throttle at 30kmh or less? I tried lighter oils (Castrol's 90W?) and they were great, until they got sweated out in short order in street use. I tried heavier oils (260W Cusco? Some Jap brand now) and it stayed inside the diff, but driving around town off throttle was just vile. On throttle was noticeably less actually. It got to the point where the clutch was in every single time I was off throttle. Forever. Everywhere. People inside and outside of the car noticed it, people asked me at work why the car was broken and all sorts of stuff. I paid $1000 for the thing to be rebuilt and there was no issue found due to the fact the diff is designed to be that way. My car has always suffered from axle tramp mind you, trying to launch it at the edge of traction is pretty similar. Has all poly bushes (new) and pineapples have been tested in every configuration, nothing helped. The VLSD and Helical are smooth as silk. My mate's S15 with the 1 way drove like you would expect. Minor skipping on sharp angles on throttle, silent off throttle. Better in every single way, though I will say on track the 2 way is very predictable and does NOT want to kill you on decel like people fear, or seemed to fear back in the day.
  7. Ye, depending on the percentages of the angles they could be a 1.9 way, or a 1.1 way, or a whatever way. Or maybe more accurately you could call it a "2" way (and Nismo does!) because there is some degree of locking in both directions. But I've never seen anyone talk about a plate diff in a skyline and use the term "ramp angle" and they absolutely haven't gone to Kazz and asked them what their ramp angles are, then compare them to Nismo, or Cusco etc. I think your post might be the first time I've ever seen someone consider a ramp angle or point out that it's customizable via Cusco! My 2 way with its nearly 45 degree ramp angles (just going by the picture) was an absolute piece of shit. (below 10kmh, daily driving). The one you want, whatever the part number is is clearly the 90 degree 1 way one.
  8. There is no 1.5 way diff for Nismo, nor is there a 1.5 way diff at all, because all diffs that provide lock in both directions are by definition 2 way diffs. Having driven my _real_ 1.5 way diff and a real Nismo 1 way diff, the difference is very noticable and will send you insane thinking you are troubleshooting the same part. Observe the above diagram, then observe below: This is sold as a "Nismo 1.5 way" but is clearly a 1 way that my mate had. This is my "Nismo 1.5 way" that is actually a 1.5 way (maybe - The ramps look pretty even) but it is what people refer to as a "2 way" Nismo absolutely did (or used to) have different listings referring to different lockup types. From memory I saw it listed as "1 way" and "2 way" with no mention of the 1.5 way. Go by Nismo's recommendations and what you want in a road car is the Nismo "1" way. Potentially the adjustable pro 2 way can be made to be very relaxed on deceleration, or you are going to have a very skippy time relative to your friends with the 1 way version of the "1.5 way" This brought to you by a lot of pain and troubleshooting before opening the diff up. Get the right part numbers in your head from Nismo's page and get data like ramp angles and understand what they all are BEFORE BUYING A DIFF. What people refer to as a 1.5 way is merely a 2 way, but with locking ramps that are less severe on deceleration. 45 degree ramps are the most severe, so a 45 on accel and 45 on decel will be a true 2 way. Something like a 45 degree on acceleration and say a 65 degree on deceleration will be a "1.5" way. Something like 45 on accel and 90 degree on decel will be a 1 way. 90 degree ramps (which arent really a ramp) do not provide lockup. Look back at the differences between the two diff centers and you will be enlightened if not already
  9. You could skip all of this silliness and put a V8 in from the start. You know where this ends
  10. Surely nowadays a G series can be done in a very-nearly-bolt-on-in-stock-location on a RB25 on a stock manifold etc. Surely. I have not really looked into it for reasons
  11. Unkind reminder that VW SUV significantly less expensive and way more reliable than BMW sporty car. let alone a modified BMW sporty car.
  12. Just to muddle things up. This is my GTX3076R compressor wheel which sounded great and was making 30psi and showed no performance problems. So who knows what's gonna happen
  13. My problems are solved! Though to be honest (and be somewhat discouraging) I don't think it's a great plan. Mainly because even in V8 land if you stomp the throttle it's not some night and day difference say, under 4k. I tell people this all the time, my car makes ~210kw at 4k. If you floor it at 4k you get all the power and wildness that 210kw gets you. Not much really. If you floor it at 3k you get all the fury of ~130kw. And of course over 4k, well it makes less power than 90% of RB turbo setups. You could make the argument that "Well under 4k is where you spend most of your time driving" and that's true, except it's not like people are also spending their time driving under 4k at 100% throttle. Which means your intended speed really is determined by how fast the driver wants to go/whether you have traction. I don't think the PD is really a solid plan on a RB. People can commute around under 4k with a RB25 on 0psi just fine, and when your foot gets heavy people just don't stay under 4k and you get the best of both worlds. IMO the only benefit is mechanical simplicity/less internal issues, and partial throttle car-balance over 4000rpm. I sound like the ultimate wanker, but I will say that the LS really is a handling mod over anything else, in any area where the V8 N/A is comparable in power to a Turbo 2.5L or a PD driven 2.5L which for argument's sake we'll say is similar. (unless you want a scenario where you want 800KW where a RB+T is going to be just worse everywhere than a V8TT but that's not the discussion here :p)
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