sozman

Hey Al, my brake and clutch lines arrived today, they look fantastic. Haven't as yet had the chance to fit them, maybe this weekend if all goes well. Thank you for your efforts in organising this buy. Adrian

Hey mate, hey guys, I agree entirely with your motivation and methodology. For those who scoff at him, cast your minds back to when you were staring out... I remember thinking my brothers V6 VN Commodore went fast... At least he knows enough to acknowledge that he has more to lean. Far better approach than many others (no names no court martials...) who have read a couple of Zoom magazines and profess to know all. Talk really is cheap, and opinions are like ... armpits. Everyone's got one (or two). People talk from their of their friends experience. Saying Brand A is crap, brand B rocks supreme is a bit silly. If brand A really was crap, then it would cease to exist due to low sales. HKS, Trust, GReddy, Apexi all make brilliant products, that's why everyone knows their name... OK, off soap box. For a boost controller, I agree wholeheartedly that pneumatic boost controllers aren't good enough when you start to climb up the performance ladder. I had a Tu...woops known brand two stage boost controller in my old MR2 and it was great until I started to get a bit serious. It would spike if I dropped back to third and floored it to overtake. Basically the turbo snaps to full boost and the little valve is momentarily overwhelmed. I also found that my boost would creep under sustained acceleration in high gears, not drop. But I suspect that was more attributable to the standard dump pipe impeding flow through the wastegate. On cold nights the boost would rise by 2 psi over what was set too. Bla bla bla, I digress. Electronic boost controllers are the way to go, but they are a tad pricy. I bought a second hand Greddy Profec B, not spec II, for $300 and it is fantastic. Hot or cold it holds boost. Slow acceleration or sudden overtaking, holds boost. All the way through 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and some of 5th it holds boost. One would think that the Apexi would work nicely with the FC, but it also has a nice price... I unplugged the solenoid and removed it and the bracket from the P/S reservoir. Neater. So find yourself a good second hand electronic boost controller and you're away. It'll probably be around the same price a a new two stage pneumatic one anyway... As for intercoolers, similar reasoning. People say that cutdown truck cores are crap. They may have slightly different flow properties to bar and plate cores, but they also have significantly different prices. It all has to do with... sorry, on soapbox... has to do with what's known as 'The law of diminishing returns.' The what?? Ever heard a cheap AIWA stereo that cost $200? Then listen to a decent Sony for $600. Does it sound three times better? Probably, yeah. Now flash up a $5000 Bang and Olufssen stereo. Does it sound absolutely magnificent? Yes. Does it sound 25 times better than the AIWA. No. It's the same with performance. Using drag racing as a yardstick. It cost buggerall to take a car from 15's to 14's. One second. It costs tens of thousands to go from 9's to 8's. One second. See my meaning? Off soapbox. So, as someone stated earlier, forgive me for not remembering your name to give you homage, REALISTICALLY, they all flow within a small percentage of each other. Any or all of them will be better than the standard one. It seems to be widely accepted that 600x300mm is the size to get (give or take, if it's 540 wide and 270 high, no worries). But thickness changes. GTR Standard is 50mm. Would be perfect for a 'warm' car and could be sought fo $400-500. We then move to 75mm. An upgrade that GTR's take and we 2.5lt drivers like to adopt too. More than adequate for a 'spicy' car. Notice I'm refraining from quoting kW figures, for good reason. Different products give different results on different cars. Easy. Sometimes THE SAME product can give different results on THE SAME cars... Perhaps a glitch in the Matrix... Then there's the big boys with 100mm or even 115mm cores. Pissing competion winner, hands down. I managed to find a 600x300x100mm Trust item with cast endtanks etc. for $800. WOW!! Sort of. I believe it's actually too big for my current configuration. There can be too much of a good thing. Once the BOV dumps alot of the reservoir air to avoid stalling the turbo, it takes a finite period of time to charge it back up again. The bigger the reservoir the longer it takes. I knew it would more than likely be too big for the car when I bought it, but was confident that it would be beautiful for when I've reached my goal. Another tip illustrated here. Clearly identify your endgoal (which you have) and decide upon you configuration to reach this goal. Unless you reach your first goal and still want more, then upgrading a component more than once is fiscally stupid. For example, I've got 750cc injectors and they're a bit of a bitch to get a nice idle from, and currently at max power they're only on 54% duty cycle. But they presented themselves for the right price so I got them with my end goal in mind. Why fit them now then? Part of the deal was to exchange my standard injectors. Having said all that, if you slowly acquire all you need to get your power goal and put them all on at once, you'll probably put the car into a gutter (or worse). Follow the basic four steps the engine does. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Let it breathe in easily, good compression, big healthy spark and then get it out of there. That's all it boils down to. Some people seem to get caught up in electrical gadgety that doesn't really aid those four areas. Who the hell am I to be preaching? Well I'm not as learned or experienced as Sydney Kid, but I'm far from one of the guys who 'walk into a speed shop and point at something to get fitted.' I have owned a few fast cars and bikes (still got a couple), I do all my own spanner work, have access to a fantastic machine shop who do my machining, and am great mates with an amazing turbocharger technician down in Melbourne who I used to work for. I've learned from my mistakes and other peoples mistakes. I ask the right questions and listen to peoples responses. Based on their responses I quickly figure out with accuracy if they're full of it or not. That's how I chose my turbo guy and my machining guy. And then I look at examples of their work and even watch them work if I've established enough of a rapport with them. That's how I came to work down at the turbo place in Melbourne. Look, I've prattled on enough. If you want some more advice or recommendations, please feel free to PM me and I'll help if I can, or point you somewhere if I can't. Adrian ps, nice idea with the lowered doorhandles. But, DO NOT get that done until you've got chrome windscreen wipers, otherwise the cross homogination will throw the car out of equilibrium.

Hey Al, what's the latest? I see that some people are now looking to pull out. Are we in danger of getting below 15 and this thing turning into a house of cards? I didn't receive a PM from you on Friday either. Any light you could shed would be greatly appreciated, Adrian

So some of you will turn up on the 27th, and the others will turn up on Sunday... As per my last, the first post said Sunday the 27th. Am I the only one with a calendar nearby? I'm not trying to be smart (well, maybe a little bit...) but I really don't want to drive up from Nowra on the wrong day, hence my question... SUNDAY OR THE 27TH!!! Thanks in advance, Adrian

So that's Sunday the 28th, not the 27th which is a Saturday?...

Hey Troy, can you please tell me what exactly needs to be machined to make them fit in an RB30 bottom end? I am doing and RB30 conversion for my R33 and was initially going to settle with preparing my standard rods. However, if I can get H beam rods with ARP bolts for similar money... Thanks in advance, Adrian

Hey Tony, my old offer still stands. After six months, I know I'd be happy to get rid of it... Adrian

I'm pretty sure I've got one. I think I grabbed all the leftovers after I fitted my front mount. I'll confirm tonight though. If so, I'm in Nowra, couple of hours South of Sydney, and I've got a mate down at the moment who lives in Kirrabilli (spelling??) so you could grab it from him. But, before we go any further I should confirm that I have it. I'll let you know tomorrow. Adrian

Mmm, I hear those oat temptations are good... I'm in Sydney this weekend, maybe we could meet and I can check out the diff. PM me with your number and I'll call to arrange. Thanks mate, Adrian ps I had a cup of tea and a cigarette for brekky, have to watch my waistline!

I meant details like who built it? Did they improve it at the same time eg tighter so as to engage earlier? Or was is just bearings and seals. What was wrong with it in the first place that you thought it necessary to have it rebuilt? I don't want to know what you had fro breakfast, but some basic details will help me greatly, pics too if possible. Thanks mate, Adrian

Hey Matt, tell me about the LSD, including how much you want for it. Thanks, Adrian

Michael, can you resend your account details to me? Just PM them to me please. Also, just want to confirm that if it doesn't work, then I pay for return postage and you refund my money into my account. Sorry for the inconvenience, Adrian

Tony, I sent you a PM about the cooler, haven't heard back yet... I look forward to hearing from you, Adrian

Wow! 24 views and all these replies!! The title says it all, hold your mouse over it and you get the info, or you could waste your time and view it even if you're not after an engine... I dunno guys, maybe some of you aren't as smart as your Mum tells you... Well, I guess everyone's either got engines in great condition and aren't worried about rebuilding one, or there are going to be a plethora of Skylines with magical RB30 combo's getting around. Or maybe the right person hasn't looked at it yet... After this shameless bump, that might all change. Adrian