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4rdr33

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About 4rdr33

  • Birthday 23/10/1981

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    brisbane
  • Interests
    lots of interests

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  • Car(s)
    4 door r33
  • Real Name
    Joshua

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  1. Sorry it's auto, worth 170klms in clock
  2. Good car. Mechanically good, turbo good. Usual mods. Going without rego, car located in hunter region. Don't drive anymore so need gone, want 4wd. 3000
  3. My driver window is now stuck down. I'm assuming I need the setup for window, not switches. Not sure if 2 door is the same as 4 door. Need it ASAP. Rain around and need to drive to work. Can possibly pick up if around hunter area or even Sydney. Please let me no. 0403 229 692 Thanks
  4. I am looking for the steering wheel sensor for my 33. a working one of course, mine plays up every now and then. let me no. Thanks
  5. This car is in good condition still considering it's age, 160000, has been looked after mechanically, engine is good, mostly highway klms, auto works great, some marks in the upholstery as expected over time, paint isnt too bad either, small scrape on rear quarter, some others marks on boot and bonnet but not too bad, also some litlle bits of clear coming off around door sil. The usual stone chips. Drives great, has lowered adjustable damper koni, fronts are due for service, all 4 are fully rebuildable, front mount intercooler, 3 inch exhaust, high flow cat, 3 inch dump pipe, split dump pipe in garage for it, pod, manual boost control. No stereo with car, pioneer splits in doors stay. Car has it's age issues also, few rattles, old sensors every now and then. Car would benefit alot from a electronic boost controller as manual boost controllers arnt that good. Would like to keep but want a work ute, would also do a trade deal for the right car. Car would be a great catch for the right person who wants to look after it, and show it attention. Car is registered in Qld ATM, but I will be deregistering and selling down here. Car is still roadworthy, couple new tyres just put on the front. Also there is paint chipping on front bumper too and air con needs a regas. 4000, car is located in hunter valley nsw. Email if interested.
  6. Hi guys, problem again with my hicas, now it started couple months ago, here and there, now all of a sudden, if I drive it up the shop it's fine, but as soon as I go start it again at the shop the light comes on, seems to be everytime I turn it off and then back on. I have to leave the car a little while and it seems to go away, used to be couple miniutes, now seems longer. Before anyone says search it, I have, doesn't really sum up the problem though. Anyone else have an idea how to deal with it, or anyone know somewhere on Brisbane northside I can get a lockout bar put on so I don't have it anymore. Thanks for your help.
  7. Well I went with the choice of going back to a bellmouth. Not the best solution but for now it will do. If it solves my problem which I'm pretty confident it will. There is nothing else left for me to check, I will keep the split dump for when I change turbo's and do ecu upgrade.
  8. Thanks for the replies so far, seems people have mixed views on this subject. I have also been told that split dumps flow so much freely and that can cause wastegate creep also, something to do with pressure. Not sure myself. Any ideas if I will lose much power by going back to a bellmouth.
  9. Hi there, I have an r33 4 door that i got about 2 months ago off a friend of mine, I have been having an ongoing issue with bad boost creeping and spiking. I have a standard turbo running front mount and split dump pipe ( apparently bought off a guy on this sight that makes them), and a pod. now as soon as i go full throttle, the boost just keeps going past the actuator setting anywhere from 10 to 14. I am not running a boost controller. I have put a piece on the hot pipe to run line to actuator, and also replaced actuator aswell. Nothing changed. still over boosting. I detached the actuator arm today and wired the flap open as far as it could go and went for a test drive. Still the car boosted up by about 3000 - 3500 and kept rising to about 9 psi, maybe even 10. With it open, shouldnt i only get maybe a couple psi by redline, not 9 or 10. I am thinking the split dump has something to do with this, I have checked for boost leaks everywhere i can, and replaced some hoses. I am leaning towards going back to bellmouth dump, i have been told they a a lot more stable on boost and keep the split for when or if i decide to do ecu and tune. Anyone that has been through this, knows anything about this sort of thing, please shed some light and let me know if i am maybe on the right track. Thanks to everyone for there help. Josh
  10. i have an auto 33, will this run piggyback for my auto. i know it an oldish thread but didnt look like u had any takers.
  11. do you still have the stock actuator for the 33 by any chance, need one
  12. do you happen to still have the standard actuator for the 33
  13. Hey, just after another r33 actuator for a series 1, anyone have one they don't need just let me no. My car likes to over-boost and im running out of options on what it could be so im going to replace the actuator. Im in Brisbane. Thanks
  14. Sometimes the boost goes to about 15, depends how cold it is that night. On average it goes 10 to 12, i have a split dump pipe on it also. I have heard that can make a difference. That quick tap idea in the link that was posted seems like a good idea. Maybe i should give that a go. from around the turbo housing, is that where pretty much everyone goes from.
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