NISMO-61

The engine light never came on, when I had the ticking issue. It would only come on when I unplugged the blue plug on the driver side. When it was unplugged, the ticking noise would go away but the engine light would come on. then plug it back in and drive the car for a few days, then the engine light would turn off. Then I started to have stalling issue. The car would stall at the lights, even sometimes while driving, happened once on the freeway. engine stalled, all the lights came on for a split second and then started again by itself. I changed the oil pump thinking that it might have been the cause, but wasn't. Then the vibration started. when it started, the car was no longer stalling, and the engine was not ticking at all. It would only vibrate in idle, when you drive the car, it would run nice and smooth. This Friday, I was driving home from work and the damn thing stalled (hadn't stalled since that vibration started-more than 2 weeks). Initially the car didn't start. I got out and sat there for about 10 minutes to figure out what to do. then when I got back in to try one more time before calling a tow truck, it started. The car had 108.000km on the clock if it's the correct number. has been serviced every 10.000km since I got it (it was 47.000km when I got it) the timing chain doesn't make any noise at all. Even when I had that ticking noise, it wasn't the timing chain.

I was going to bring it to you Scotty, but I mentioned earlier the ticking noise disappeared when the vibration started. Changing the sensors is not an issue, but the questions is will it solve the problem. if that ticking noise was affecting the timing, then it would be normal that the sensors were delivering wrong signals which might mean there might be nothing wrong with the sensors. Even if the sensors are changed, I strongly believe that the problem will be there. I'm really confused. At least Nuwan gives me warranty although the list he came up with is long and costly. I have just purchased roadside assistance, just to make sure. I'm planning to go overseas, so cant invest any money on it now.

it seems like there is no leak. I took it to the Nissan Service centre. They came up with a list of error codes starting from the crank shaft sensor, 2 of the cam timing sensors and mass air flow sensor. At the end of the list it says $1434.00 including the labour. 2 V-cam timing sensors supply and fi $700 Crank shaft sensor $348 Mass air flow sensor $386 they cant even say whether it's going to fix the problem or not. I was driving home today and the damn thing stalled. I pulled over and tried to restart....not a chance. I got out to get some fresh air and after 10 mins, I got back in and it started. I'm sick and tired of this car but I just cant throw it away. I had gone to Nuwan before when I had that ticking noise from the engine (variable valve timing stuff I had mentioned before). He came up with a longer list of things to be done. At least he can tell me that what he is going to do is going to fix the problem. On the other hand he will replace a lot of things to sort it out. his list costs $ 3600

Would a stuffed up ignition coil pack would cause this kind of vibration in idle?

I haven't done anything to him as he has been doing a lot to me..... giving me a brand new headache everyday.

Just wanna ask one more question, If there is a problem with the fuel damper or pressure regulator (are they the same thing or what?), do you think the car shakes all the time or just when idles? Because in my case, the car shakes only when I stop and it idles. when I accelerate there is no problem at all. The car runs nice and smooth.

The car used to have stalling problem as well. That's why I changed the fuel pump thinking that it might be the reason. However the issue was still there after changing the pump. I might try to replace the fuel pressure damper to see if it makes any difference. Any part number for the fuel pressure damper for 2001 300GT V35 VQ30DD engine (direct injection)

We havent touched the vvt as it would cost 3.5k. I changed the intank fuel pump. Where the hell is the fuel dumper and where do i get it. I believe i can do it as i changed the fuel pump by myself.

It does file like the car is kind of a massage chair. the whole thing is simply shaking. It's like a huge vibrator. I have recently changed the fuel pump but not sure about the dumper stuff. The car shakes but doesn't stall and when you accelerate, it runs nice and smooth. As I said it feels like the idle rpm is low, but then it should stall right? this guy doesnt stall at all. When you are at the lights, right before you take off, if you touch the accelerator gently, it almost stalls and than as your foot goes further down on the pedal, it picks up momentum. To make the long story short, no stalling. shivers like a massive vibrator (If you place a cup of water on the dash board, it might spill around), car runs smoothly after take off. That's all I have in hand. As I mentioned in my first e-mail, before this issue merged , I had a problem with the Variable valve timing shit. It was ticking between 0 to 2000rmp. now that ticking is gone. I don't know whether these problems are related or not. I think the Variable timing unit clicked something sensitive, and now the car is having orgasm....

first thing tomorrow. Thanks for the info. appreciated.....

where should I check?

I dont think I will get it fixed. If I try to sell the car, how much you reckon I would get? Spend 3.5K to get it fixed........ I would rather drive it this way and when its completely dead I will sell the parts and get rid of it. The next car I would buy is not going to be any more expensive than $500. I'm sick and tired of new technology shits.

Hi everyone, One issue after another. I have lost the count but anyways..... This new issue is a bit interesting. I used to have ticking/ rattling noise coming from the damn variable valve timing unit. during the last few weeks that annoying sound has gone for good. However we have a different issue now. When the car idles, especially when warm, it shivers, shakes just as the idle RPM is too low and it's going to stall. However the idle RPM is pretty normal (around 600rpm) and although the car shakes like it's having an orgasm, it doesn't stall. When you stop at the lights, it happens. when you take off, the car goes nice and smooth. What might be the issue guys? I kind of like it as it functions like a massager.

Mine happens up to 2000rpm as I believe that where the variable valve timing is needed. After 2000, there is no knocking noise at all.

Scotty, can I get the address please?