Jump to content
SAU Community

fyjosh

Members
  • Posts

    62
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    r34

fyjosh's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. Record your current settings, change to desired settings, reverse if it doesn't work with your tune. Dial in as much gain as you can without spiking over desired max boost. You want as much early response as possible while keeping a steady boost through the Rev range.
  2. For sale, Viper 881xp alarm. This was a top of the line, two way alarm with LCD pager remote. Bought this for $800 a few years ago but never got around to installing it. The alarm is brand new, in box, wires labelled and ready to drop in to any car. Selling for $350 ono. Can include shipping for the right price. otherwise located in Doncaster, Melb. As seen here - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8284_Python-881XP.html features include (but not limited to): The Ultimate 2-Way Security and Remote Start Kit Super-bright Status LED High-Output Mini Neo Siren Silent mode Dedicated one-button start Turbo timer Safety shut down Timer mode Complete Engine Monitoring Anti-Grind Engine Checking Extreme Capacity Relay Satellite Tach/Voltage Checking Directed Video Compatible
  3. Looking for a clean r34 25det manual. 2 door only. Vic only. Pm me with any offers. Cheers, Josh
  4. WTB r34 auto Ignition barrel and door locks with matching key. will pay postage, but Melbourne preferred. cheers
  5. check / replace the fuel filter replace all the vac lines clean AFM adjust TPS check the coolant temp sensor clean the throttle body and IACV check for vac leaks through intake replace air filter and so on...
  6. service your car and change vac hoses and plugs etc, and diff ratio for some extra punch.
  7. dont remove the stock intake, ie the big chamber that sits between the throttlebody and the flexible tube (before the AFM). removing it will rob you of precious torque/power, and trust me you have SFA to lose. you will gain annoying noise, humming sound, and lose power... get a pod adapter and keep everything else stock. replace all your vac hoses while you're at it.
  8. No point doing wide wheels if your still riding high on stock suspension, it's going to look balls. 'Gtr offset' is just a term loosely thrown around to describe anything in a 9+ inch width in a +15 to +30. If you have a 4 door the rear guards are slightly smaller, meaning a lower width or higher offset is required. I find that a 17 or 18 x 9 +20 works well with 4 door rear guards, with -0.5 degree's camber, and the lips rolled, with a 235/45 tyre.
  9. email them asap, take photo's. leave no time between when you collect the car and when you report it, so they can't say you fcuked them yourself. they have insurance, and with a bit of a push will put something like this to a claim. post up a pic of the wheels where they're damaged
  10. is it definitely a 2.5 from the cat to rear muffler? make a Helmholtz resonator, this could potentially help reduce the drone between 1500-2500 rpm range, it won't eliminate it. nothing will 100% fix the drone other than a GOOD muffler adequately sized, which that Lukey muffler is neither. more info: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102075&page=6
  11. rust repair isnt that bad if you can borrow a friends mig, or even better borrow a friend who can mig. cut out the rust, make a filler panel, fix any interior rust (which there will be, there always is) and slowly spot weld in the filler panel. grind back your ghastly noob welds and paint. this would be pretty easy as its out of sight.
×
×
  • Create New...