180 wanabe

Hi guys Went drifting yesterday and managed to loose 3rd gear. Now that sentience alone would normally be a no brainier as to what went wrong only there are a few things about my car that makes this strange. My car is a S15 with a SR20 making 300 hp @ the wheels, I broke the 6 speed about 18 months ago and decided to just bite the bullet and pay the extra to upgrade to a RB25 box conversion and not have to worry about breaking a box again in the future. When I broke the 6 speed I lost gears 3 and 4 + reverse would sometimes want to randomly go forward... With the current gearbox all of the gears apart from 3rd seem fine. The strange thing is when you move the stick to what should be 3rd gear it seems like there is nothing there at all. There are no noises, crunches or grinding sounds. You can have the clutch fully engaged with the box in neutral and move the shiftier to 3rd and its like there is nothing there/the same feeling as if the clutch was disengaged? Could this be a broken selector fork? I'm a little stumped, I will admit that this happened during an entry into a corner. I had pulled the hand brake to kick the car out and was either in 3rd gear at the time or had just shifted from 2nd to 3rd and did a clutch kick to break traction. My thoughts were that the RB25 box was good for 400+hp and that 300 should be a cakewalk for the box to deal with. Since doing the RB25 box upgrade I have only done 1 previous drift session and on the day that I lost 3rd "yesterday" had only been on the track for about an hour. I have been trying to smash my mortgage not more gearboxes which is why the car has seen very little use. The only other things worth mentioning is that after the conversion there was noticeable vibration in 3rd and 4th gear when coasting/decelerating which the shop that did the conversion blamed on my diff as it was getting tired. I also have alloy slip in diff-subframe mounts/collars which would probably also cause more noise. Anyone else had this happen with their box and what was the solution?

Hi there I am after a S15 bonnet any colour will do but would prefer yellow PM me or txt me if you have one for sale 0401163847 Thanks Stuart

I had a decent look under the car when it was on the hoist everything appears to be fine The new toe rods and camber arms were a fair bit heavier than the stock items so I agree with your fusible link comment Camber arms were fine but I had adjustable ones put in at the same time just in case

So this is what a custom toe rod looks like....

I'm 99% sure its the toe/traction rod/arm whatever you want to call it, I'm hoping that I don't need to get camber arms as well Now as I am trying to keep the car as roadworthy and defect free as possible dose anyone know what the deal is in QLD about rose joints? I'm pretty sure years ago when I took my 180sx to the pits after it got defected I had to swap out my aftermarket castor rods for the stock ones as they got knocked back for having rose joints Had a look at the Queensland transport website but was not able to find anything specific, can probably call them up on Monday to find out for sure but in the mean time if anyone knows pretty sure that these ones from just jap are rose joints http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16572&cat=&page=2 these ones on ebay look more like urethane/rubber http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Adjustable-Nissan-350Z-Z33-Infiniti-G35-03-08-Rear-TOE-Control-Arm-Bar-Rod-Kit-/271115167760?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1fb92810&_uhb=1

Now I'm a little confused, are toe arms and traction rods the same thing?

after a quick look on google seems I have bent one of my toe arms

So went to the Friday night drifts and was having a pretty good time, car was running well Was finishing off my 285s and had some stock wheels to drive home on Anyhow I had a spin which didn't seem all that different to any other times I have had the car spin out on the track over the last few years until I got back on the track and realized something was not right At 1st I thought I may have popped a tyre as the steering wheel was turned a quarter turn to the right in order to drive straight. I limped off the track to discover that my tyres were ok, however something was very wrong with the back left wheel as you will see in the pics Pulled the wheel off and had a look, seems like I have bent some rod that has caused the wheel to toe in + also screw up the camber Put the wheel back on and checked to see that it was not fouling on anything when it turned and that it was tight had no play in it and was not wobbling Drove the car around the block and it seemed derivable so I went back home at 80kph on the hwy Surprisingly the car still drives pretty straight, the steering wheel seems to correct the cars direction by moving itself a quarter turn right Have posted pics of how the wheel is sitting inside the guard Have also posted a pic of the rod that I think I have managed to bend on the left side along with a picture of the rod on the right side which looks a lot straighrer Can anyone tell me the name of the rod I have bent and any ideas on what options I have to get this sorted? Might be calling up the wrecker in Victoria that had a few V35s for parts or are there aftermarket items available? straight bent got toe in?

Top diff and a fantastic price considering it includes the stub axel!!! Sick of peg legging it off the line or having the inside wheel light up around a corner on your stock auto V35 do yourself a favor and buy this

This is exactly my point I have run 98 for years and now that I have started to run 95 I can't detect ANY difference, everything feels and sounds the same and yet I am getting slightly better fuel economy which is one of the main reasons why I have raised this point

Hi there For years I've been filling up with 98 octane and for the most part when it came to my 308rwkw 180sx and my super sport bikes "GSXR1000, ZX6R" it seemed to be the logical thing to do Until the last 3 tanks I have been doing the same with my V35, however I decided to give the 95 a go and see if I noticed any difference As far as I can tell the car runs exactly the same which is no surprise I guess given that its running the factory ECU, interestingly enough I seem to be getting slightly better fuel economy as well on the 95 compared to the 98 So my thinking is that the factory ECU will do things such as advance/retard the timing on its own depending on how much knock it is detecting, however there is only so far that it can advance the timing. Perhaps the factory ECU is limited/unable to advance the timing past the point where any benefit would be noticed running the higher 98 octane ?

I'll stick to my 280kph Nismo setup

I seriously hope whoever did that to your car trips over whilst j walking and gets run over by a semi

I am with NRMA and they play silly buggers with me every year my insurance is due, last year was no exception with them wanting allmost 2k!!!! fortunately I was able to get them to beat a quote by AI insurance which brought my price down to a much better $800 Still given when I 1st got the car and insured it 4 and and a bit years ago for 30k they wanted $1500

Not my cup of tea but hey its your car feel free to put a big Herro Kitty sticker on the side if you like