Aljo

I had my GTS4T interior pulled apart when I had a crash that wrote off the car a year on I am selling the parts, here they are posted on ebay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161466354000?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161471329780?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 These were spare seatbelts, Original smooth working JDM's. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161466356730?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 These R32 GTS 2wd Tie Rod Ends (Pair) were sold to me as the correct ones for the GTS4T but they were not and I was told they are actually for the GTS 2WD. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161466362184?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Ok so removed boost controller and the boost sensor piping/tap hardware and re-installed it all with brass fittings and new piping instead of that clear stuff went for proper vacuum hose. This has fixed any issue the first setup had. Boost gauge is reading 11-12PSI at full boost and with 6 notches + on boost controller reading 14PSI @ max boost. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NlC1nNU4LI&hd=1 These are the fittings convert 6.5mm to a 5mm used locktite on threads. Squeezed the 5mm piping onto the 6.5mm connection on the wastegate actuator (have my younger sister to thank for that her smaller hands were able to get in there and get it on for me. (seriously she used two hands I could just fit 1 hand) Tiny mod to the air box to allow room for the boost controller Removed the crappy clear piping and plastic tee piece and refitted with good quality hardware. Not only looks better but boost gauge is reading correctly Video to be posted asap

Sweet on my to do list, thx. Here is the way I have the boost sensor tapped. Was not able to do much on the car today busy with my sisters car problems,. My car goes into Pedders in the morning to have everything fitted. RDA rotors all round QFM pads all round front left shock and upper mount front cv shafts rear lower outer tie rod ends front lower swaybar and bushes New gear box oil lines and a few other oil lines Adjustable front upper control arms Wheel balance and wheel alignment all round Should drive nicely ones all is completed.

I have a few spares if need be. I know solenoids don't like running on their side but it will work for now, I will look into the N15 door mech but not sure if it would be compatible with my remote entry system. If it fails too quick I can try mounting it upright. Another thing that might cause a fail is the lack of required movement at the end point travel, stops short but actuator continues to push before resting. The rear battery is held down very sturdy but I will be re-enforcing it some what in one of the next stages of the stereo install. The battery has durable foam padding that helps level it vs the contours of the tire well also there are non slip mats top and bottom and it is very heavy too, roughly 30Kgs from memory. Help as in advice? All and any help is appreciated.

t Yeah will take a look at it tomorrow. Re-check the install and close the boost tap and re-check readings.

Thanks for continued feedback and interest in helping me out, much appreciated. The gauge measures -14~30 PSI http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290776461928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2014wt_1163 this is the one.

Awesome thx for the feed back and pic. I installed mine today gauge reads -9 to -8 and under max load gets too 6PSI shouldn't it read 0 and show 14 to 15PSI under max load. I have read stock ceramic turbo should produce 10PSI I have it boosted with a Turbosmart Boost Tee Controller Tap Valve and have read they are good for around 14PSI which seems about ball park as far as counting from -9 to 6 15 increments just worried about the minus reading when it should read 0, right? Forgot to take pics of the T setup but here are some pics of the boost sensor actuator. On another note I have installed an immobilizer with remote entry, using a master actuator to control existing central locking setup. Also installed the isolator secondary battery start-up switch, 0 gauge ground wire, new battery and battery terminals.

Yeah a mate of mine said the following "Find the fuel rail under inlet manifold. One end will have a regulator which has a vac line. T that. That sound about the same as what you have advised, right. Is it one of these hoses in this area? Updated is that the one?

Where is the best place to tap into a vacuum line for the boost gauge?

So I got started on the mechanical work that is required for roadworthy and Queensland compliancing as this was complianced in NSW but QLD requires a mod plate and thus needs to go through inspection up here. I have all the parts now QFM Break pads (NEW) RDA slotted front discs and RDA rear discs (NEW) Replacement front left shock and shock mount Replacement secondhand front CV shafts Adjustable upper control amrs (NEW) Rear outer tie rod ends (NEW) Lower front (sway bar) with good bushes. I went to get started on dissembling the front end started with the callipers to remove the rotors then to remove the cv shafts. I couldn't get the big bolts to budge, no room back there for my impact gun, very limited leverage room working close to the ground, I used a lot of WD40 but that did not help and to top it off when reading the workshop manual for hints and how to I saw that the reassembling of the front shafts will require a torque measuring tool, too properly tighten the hub lock nut on reassembly which I do not have not too mention there seems to be another special tool called a Pitman arm puller used to separate the tie-rod and suspension lower ball joint. So besides the fact that I couldn't get the calliper off the simplest of things which I have done on my other 10 cars over the years these callipers differ in that they are a 4 piston set-up (all my other cars were 1 maybe 2 but both on the back side sliding the calliper and those bolts are in tight demoralised and greasy I packed up my stuff reassembled the car so I could drive and called it a day. I am thinking this particular job will require an expert. Thinking Pedders as they can also complete a wheel alignment. Advice welcomed.

Yeah I always knew that increasing boost would not affect AFR @ cruising RPM. I was just hoping it would give me some sort of reading that differed from the stock rich reading when under acceleration if I increased the boost. So ultimately the AFR gauge is being installed for me to find the sweet spot for my foot on the accelerator when cruising around, cruising efficiency was and is my main goal with the AFR gauge. Thanks for the info on what I would require to do to make the AFR gauge a tuning tool, it is food for thought to include in my RB26DET future upgrade project. Couple more photos. I have just finished cut, polish and wax this was a very dirty car and a lot of stains needed to be cut out but I got there and came up nice. Meguiars medium cut & cleaner and Meguiars Ultimate polish glaze and Turtle wax awesome products.

Update - Fitted isolation solenoid and battery that will run my stereo system - car won't be able to start off the stereo battery as I didn't want to run a thick gauge wire through to front thinking to creat special jumper leads that plug into drycell if starter bat goes flat but eh see what happens lot's to do any ways. Unbolted the steel plate that separated the boot from the cabin and cut off the hook that is required for the back seat to be re-installed. Then bolted that cut off part back on and used the left over plate to hold the battery down. I used rubber foam to level the tyre well and then placed an anti-slip mat then battery on the mat then another anti-slip mat on top then the steel plate is screwed to tyre well sides being safe to use the right length screws and the right spots so to not puncture the fuel tank I also placed a think piece of rubber foam spacer between the spare tyre hold down screw down and the battery and used a measured piece of steel pipe that the tyre hold down bolt goes through to stop the hold down bolt from bending the steel plate but short enough that pressure is placed on the battery, hope that makes sense.

Ok so is this correct for model number RNR32GASLMDB R = RB20DET N = 4WD with Super HICAS R32 G = GTS-4 A = 4 Speed Automatic S = Intercooler + Turbo Type L = Projector Headlight M = P + Q ~ P = Electronic control active Full auto air-conditioner (Climate control system I assume) - Q = Electronic control active Sound System (Upgraded Sound System?) D = GT Auto Spoiler (Front Only) Viscous LSD B = 4 Wheel Anti Skid (ABS?) GTR Steering Wheel

I picked up the car from Sydney and drove it back to Qld and I tested to see if it was speed limited and how it accelerated from stand still you are right 11-12sec to 100km/h (stopwatch timer on my Samsung Nexus) but it kept pulling hard 140, 150, 170, 180 gauge max's out but it kept pulling along & the needle kept moving past 180, gps speed app was reading speed (use it for speed runs on my 1/8 scale RC) 190, 200 and felt like it could have gone some more. When I say easy to reach 200KM/H I mean as long as you have a stretch of road it gets there very linearly and without a lengthy struggle which I know is due to the turbo boost providing the needed power. Mine is an auto and @ 110KM/H sits on about 3000RPM in overdrive so I expect high revs pushing solid boost prob helps it along but bad efficiency for sure. it revs to 7000rpm and redzone very easy and very quick once the boost is on and continues to do so as the auto shifts through the gears quickly no drop in revs below boost rpm. Anyways I will have to make a video of it sometime but I try to limit my luck pushing events to blue moon middle of no where straight a ways or a drag track day which won't happen for a couple of months.

Thx mate not sure about the model code and what it means RNR32GASLMDB but it says engine RB20DT but it is a DET does that mean orig it wasn't tubo and was fitted later? What does 4K and the HI . 4WD mean? Prod M/Y 9007 does that mean build date July 1990? I really do appreciate you taking the time to look it up for me, thx heaps.