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  2. So need some ideas. Car is making less power than before and is laggy. 345rwkw or so on 19psi and will not make anymore boost, solenoid is max duty. Spikes to 25psi midrange but once the engine starts to breath it just falls away. Have tried lots of adjustment of cam timing, bench test wastegate actuators, and checked all the connections. I'm gonna go over and boost leak test it with him and I considered bypassing BOVs for testing. I'm also going to remove intakes and inspect Comp wheels and free play. Given I'm sure I could hear a new turbo bearing/whistle type sound, is this symptomatic of failing turbo bearing? Other ideas welcome. Yes I know I should have put a single on it.
  3. Hey guys, sorry i can't make tonight.
  4. Finally found time to paint the calipers.
  5. Only 2, selling one of them now too
  6. I know, I do
  7. this is exactly for You
  8. Today
  9. Done [emoji736] dusted now bring the cars and kebabs !
  10. Hey guys I'm from Victoria and I've been searching for some good GTT indicators to buy for the front bar, was wondering if anyone has any for sale? Cheers guys!!
  11. http://www.masamotorsports.com/m34mc If you can't find a factory one, MASA Motorsports makes a 260rs style one ~50,000 JPY (~600 AUD)
  12. Has anyone experimented with using a helmholtz resonance chamber? I read a pipe somewhere between 38-40inch will help cancel drone.
  13. Well ur there, so someone is there 😂
  14. Yeah I was thinking about wrapping them in exhaust wrap? Can't really see any other way to run them [emoji53]
  15. Lmao I'll give the bread crumbs a go I've been trying grease and bolt for the last 2 hours and still no good... diving me nuts 🥜
  16. No problem. Give me a call when you want to pick it up?
  17. Don't cheap out on exhausts. I spent $450 on a catback once that was f**king awful. It was so bad I chopped it up with an angle grinder rather than attempting to sell it again.
  18. Update, 305 attending and 641 interested also my parents are coming and bringing their Triumph with the SR20DET!!!
  19. Yesterday
  20. I'll take Airbox
  21. Good luck go get muddy as fk!
  22. Also have kelford 182 cams. 2000-3000kms $750
  23. Well for what its worth , I have run the car out of E85 and now on 98 pump, did about 100klms this morning and the new setup is better on 98 pump than it was on E85, everywhere , under 7000rpm, have had no need to go higher, lol. . I do not know if it is because of my particular build but there is NO doubt in my mind it is better from idle and at boost , in every gear. Since the surge tank wiring has been sorted the tank only gets luke warm Anyone that knows my history will know I have never said this before, it is a Fn weapon , luvit
  24. Watching this with great interest, i have sold my 2630 that was going in my gtst and am looking to do something more exciting with the rb20 in the future. I was thinking along the lines of a gibson motorsport style manifold and an efr turbo. Currently it just has the good old hks2530 fitted
  25. Are you certain it's the master? slave is a more common reason for no clutch, or even a leak of some sort in the line. Just Jap may have clutch master in stock and is open sat mornings, I'm not sure who else would have stock AND be open on the weekend. Ring first, it's a long way to go and find they don't have it. A lot of the guys are at Targa Tasmania today but I'm pretty sure the shop will be open. In the meantime if you need to move the car you can (assuming the battery is healthy): 1. Put the car in gear, and then start it. It will move forward on the starter but should start running. 2. You can then drive in first gear with no issues. If you need to stop use the brake until the car stops and the engine stalls (then goto 1) 3. If necessary you can also change both up and down gears without the clutch. To change up a gear drive up to medium revs, and as you take your foot off the throttle (which unloads the gearbox) pull the shifter to neutral at the same time. That's the easy bit. Then when the revs are about right for the gear you are after pull the shifter smoothly but firmly to the next gear. as a rule of thumb it will be somewhere between 2/3 and 1/2 the revs of the gear before. 4. Changing down without the clutch is similar but maybe unnecessary to get home. Lift the throttle and shift to N at the same time, then blip the throttle. When the revs are right (higher) for the next gear down the shifter will go in. If you get either 3 or 4 wrong you hear a horrible grinding sound but it's not as bad for the gearbox as it sounds. Changing the master means removing 2x 12mm head bolts + the clutch line. You should use a 10mm "flare nut spanner" for the clutch line rather than a regular open end spanner because it can round it off. There is also a pin you have to remove that holds the clutch master's rod to the pedal under the dash. Also give the clutch line a good soaking in wd40 beforehand.
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