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  1. Today
  2. Sorry I haven’t been on here much. I appreciate all the suggestions and advice. I think I’m goin to get a Honda beat. Seems like the complete opposite of the fast high horsepower car I want but it’s lightweight and it’s cheap. I was thinking maybe I can remove the “trunk” and get a slightly bigger engine for it. if we didn’t have these stupid import laws I definitely would b getting a S660 and putting the liberty walk kit on it but that’s 20 years away I think. hopefully I get a car before the spring so I can bring it to my car show when that starts. If not the g wagon and the Ferrari will b going when really I should have a skyline there. I guess it’s time to move on from that. U guys think skylines will b way more money in 30 years? I think they will skyrocket. When these cars turn 50 I bet it’s hundreds of thousands to get one. R34 gtr is already easily over 100k all over the internet some special editions being half a million. If a normal r32 gets that high then I will b crushed but I really feel like it will happen
  3. Could have refitted without plates. But if your gonna do it do it right!
  4. Just cured 95% of skyline issues myself. Removed both chassis runners by removing spot welds. Cut 3mm plates for strength. Then cleared. Rust treated chassis leg ready to plug weld plate on inside of leg before plug welding back into R33 Shell.
  5. In need of these maybe, removed for minor Dent removal. Perfect now. With fabricated 3mm shaped strengthening plates. Available to save ur rotting £60k GTR!
  6. Still need some help guys cars been sitting and I never figured out the issue, also got busy with school and work. I went through and found a pic of before I put it back together. I thought maybe I f**ked up the rear vacuum lines and I scoured the internet for some references found a few and they seem right. As well as this vacuum line diagram. Im more worried about the rear lines as they would be a little more difficult to reach with the intake on. Here's how I think they go using the diagram... Initially I did have the front green and blue lines crossed. I flipped em and I still had the same issue. That's what made me think I flipped something in the rear of that coolant return/vacuum tube.
  7. Yer manifold was impossible to remove, used many breaker bars, however I have a replacement manifold from hypergear to go on. The new manifold may also be warped though as it's a stock manifold with an external gate welded on. I'll change the studs and see where that leaves me and then contact hypergear if there is an issue
  8. Was the original manifold tight to get off? You'll probably find your manifolds are warped slightly. I had 4 manis in my spare parts pile. 2 of them wouldn't fit when i tried them. If replacing the studs doesn't fix the problem, you could try enlarging the bolt holes that require it as a quick fix and hope it bolts down good and doesn't leak. When i had asked an engineer at work about machining the face of the mani, he didn't recommend it and suggested heating it up and straightening it was the best solution, obviously requires special equipment. I ended up just binning it and using a good spare. Another thing you can try is removing the studs that are fouling, put the mani on and see if you can thread the studs in from the outside. If that doesn't work, at least you'll see how far out the holes are and how much to relieve.
  9. Nice one smart arse ! 😂 Paul, 2009 -2010 weren't you running HKS GT-RS turbos and an OS giken 5 speed back then ? Hence the reason I had to get off of the "awesome" HKSness from the 90's. Power was so late in delivery it could never actually get a decent MPH. Could not get lower than mid 10s and couldn't crack 135mph. That's why when we discussed turbo options you guys were so kind to persuade me from making another HKS mistake, which I 100% appreciate. Just took me a little while to get into the 21st century that's all... Thanks again, you are an asset to SAU and always value your input mate 👍 So what's happening with your 33 these days ?
  10. nedi

    R32 bonnet

    I’m chasing a decent bonnet for an r32 gtr. call or sms 0438 600 350
  11. Only a few small updates, needed to block off the internal wastegate flap, managed to get this Cobb Racing part that looks pretty good! Having troubles getting the exhaust manifold back on. Both the original and my new one won't fit. I'm thinking the manifold studs may be warped, so have ordered some new ones and hopefully that fixes it!! It fits on the ends but not the centre studs for some reason.
  12. Hey guys I’m just wondering how to rb25 engine and gear box swap a 180sx I’ve currently got a rb20 gearbox in the car with a 25 sitting in front of it (also using a r32 engine cross member) but had a change of heard for power numbers and now I’m wondering how I can fit the 25 gearbox but no one online seems to give clear description on how to do it
  13. i'm glad i went with the 6466, i did get offered a 6870 for only a few hundred dollars more at the time but decided it was too big for a street car. Friend of mine has the 6266 with a 1.01AR isnt really that much more responsive than the 6466 with a 1.01AR.
  14. Absolutely. 👍 That's why I opted out of the 6870 and went the 6466 as originally discussed with CRD. I was like, guys like yourself @r32-25t, @hattori hanzo, @Dorifudo were making stupid power in the 500 - 600rwkw region with them, 140+ MPH trap with comparable turbo response to low mount twins ! Sounded like more of a win than any of the EFR or Garrett stuff to me. Remember I came from plain bearing big HKS with light switch delivery.
  15. Anyone got a drivers side 3 pin door switch. The one that is covered in a rubber boot to register when drivers door is open or closed for internal light. anyone got one laying around please
  16. To me though if a 6466 is capable of mph in the mid 140s, It’s all the turbo most people will ever need including me
  17. Check your rear diff bushing. If this has grease oozing out of it and looks cracked that means its time for a bush kit change. This gets rid of the well known shuddering on throttle from the rear end on all cars with this subframe (350Z etc). I recommend a whiteline or super pro bush kit which will tighten up things back there and feel better when launching or just general response. please check the front diff driveshaft universals while you're at it . Mine shattered completely one year and requires rebuild - PNM35 3.5L
  18. Heys guys I’m building a 180sx with an rb25 and I wanna keep the air conditioning I’m just wondering how I can run a thermo for the radiator and still have the condenser in the front of it
  19. 6766 I have only seen deliver fail results. 6870 is the next logical step
  20. Hi there! I'm in the process of swapping injectors, I've read several how to's and loosened every part to get to the fuel rail... But they were all side feed how to's. Could it be that the top feed, neo injectors and rail are too long to get out with the top half of the intake still mounted? Or is there a trick? That stupid plenum gasket costs like €100 euro, so if I don't have to take it off... I'd like to keep it in place. Thanks for the help! ❤️
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