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  2. Ha... good luck with that. Hopeless knobs at that joint...
  3. https://www.caradvice.com.au/885440/rare-nissan-r34-skyline-gt-r-fetches-record-sum-at-auction/ Wow. More craziness in the classic Sports car world. What do you think this GTR is worth? If you had the money, what would you pay for it?
  4. Perhaps, but everyone who bought one is still trying to get home from the dealer because they are so slow.
  5. Today
  6. Didn't we just do a version of this thread over there? xJZ is not a great swap for a nissan chassis, everything is on the wrong side. Of course it can be done (anything can be with enough time and money), but unless you are doing it for your youtube subscriber numbers, don't do unnatural things with a nissan!
  7. Yeah looks good, but now the long wait until I actually find out if it's OK
  8. Thanks I’m pretty happy with the way it looks, took me a long time to find a Leather Interior but was well worth the wait. I don’t have a lot of great photos unfortunately but these show most angles. Thanks.
  9. This will be a nice build. I love laurels and yours looks tidy! Any more pics?
  10. Hey guys, So I hear there are R34's 2.0L 4 door auto that came with shifter and wheel tiptronic. Can anyone confirm? Thanks!
  11. Lol no it was definite sarcasm, lets have no doubt on that :p. With a post like that, pics will always help - show the current filter, and the space it goes into. do you mean 6in base, or 6in intake pipe size?
  12. More like $1100 - $2000 for a good extended sump. On my blue 32 it has a Nitto pump and a Lewis engines 8+ litre sump as it's a big dollar Nitto 2.8. But I'm not sold that it's an absolute 100% deal breaker to run a Nitto pump without a big sump. Flow rate major increases are really only up in the high revs, 7000+. They mention long nose crank or crank collar as definite must, but not absolutely, MUST run a bigger sump. Increases are as below. What is not mentioned is that the flow rates quoted are at the dual spring higher pressure, I guess because the pump flows the same at a given rpm, and the relief valve will only bypass very high in the rpm. It is possible to drop the pressure to the engine bearing and head supply though running one spring, which will infact decrease the flow rate at the high rpm range when the flow output really becomes substantially more with the higher 120psi relief valve setting. 75psi will definitely make the flow lower to the bearings at the mid to higher rpm range as the valve will bypass earlier, returning excess oil directly to the sump. How much lower the flow at the bearings will be I'm not exactly sure, as it's definitely not a linear ratio and I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer. @GTSBoy care to have a crack at the flow differential calc ? FLOW RATES (LITRES / MIN) ENGINE RPM FACTORY PUMP NITTO HIGH VOLUME PUMP 750 4.6 6.5 2200 15.3 20.2 7000 46.5 64.8 PRESSURE RELIEF VALUE (RELEASE PRESSURE) Dual Springs 120 psi * Outer Spring Only 75 psi * * Denotes Approximate Maximum Oil Pressure NITTO OIL PUMP GEAR VS FACTORY GEAR DIMENSIONS DIMENSION FACTORY NITTO DIFFERENCE Outer Gear Diameter 76.85MM 81.50MM 6% LARGER Outer Gear Width 11.00MM 14.35MM 23% LARGER Tooth To Outer Wall Width 2.55MM 4.85MM 47% LARGER On the second 32 were doing now we've built engine already with a stock sump and Nitto oil pump. We're confident it'll be ok as a mainly street and sometimes street drag car with the additional stuff fitted to optimise the stock sump volume restriction: Head 1.1mm oil supply restrictor in block (stock is 2.0mm), Tomei sump baffle, modified enlarged sump oil return holes, Franklin engineering AN10 rear head drain/breather to sump, twin AN10 rocker cover breathers to catch can with separate AN10 sump return and an HKS 13 row oil cooler with 70deg thermostat filter relocation. This will be fine, although the cooler and line setup also does add nearly an extra litre to the oil volume for a bit of an increase in capacity, restrictor tries to reduce as much oil being pumped out of sump to head and then the rest is really to facilitate getting the oil back to the sump faster - so it's not exactly a "stock" sump setup I guess. Look at the end of the day if you can go a bigger sump it's always better, even with the lower flowing N1 pumps. Definitely no argument there. If you can go bigger, do it.
  13. Not sure if that's being sarcastic or not about the legality of it, I'd happily post a pic if that would help as to your 2nd point I though the same but I have searched and searched and found zero that have a 6" Flange and 13cm height
  14. It’s expensive,I paid $300 for bonnet mat from Trust Kakiko with DHL 🤨 and got in 4days and been waiting for 2 months for rubbers and trims with kudos motorsports.
  15. Whatever you do, definitely don't post a pic of the filter or its current location, to help with your query... Having said that, i'd be amazed if you couldn't find anything suitably sized to replace. There's a huge range out there.
  16. Lol have u seen the price of DHL shipping at the moment?? You'd want gold plated triple platinum etc service to charge $90 to deliver a single air filter from jpn to aus ( i didnt proceed with the order). DHL's service has always been amazing but priced thru the roof at present.
  17. Hey team, I've got a C33 Laurel, 1989 Club L stock RB20DET. My current engine has more than done it's dash and I've been looking for a replacement for a while now. I've looked into the RB25 and even going with another 20, but I've come to the conclusion that what I really want is a JZ motor in her. I'm no mechanic, I know the basics and thats it, I'm after any advice or any links to other builds of similar nature that might help me figure out everything I'm going to need to do this transplant. I'm not too concerned about dropping the engine in itself, more any modifications I'll have to do to fit in the gear box and how different the JZ Looms are from the RBs. Also if anyone's selling a 1JZ and/or r154 gbox to suit in NZ hit me up. Any helps appreciated, Cheers.
  18. Just after some advice here My R33GTST has a "M's K+N" (Only markings on it) Pod filter, that would have to be a number (probably 10 or more) years old My questions are What does M's mean? My POD filter seems to be quite hard or more metally than the Cotton Gauze most seem to have these days Which leads into how do I find a replacement? I've searched high and low for 6" Flanged Clamp on POD filter and find nothing matches the height of mine (13cm), mine seems an inch shorter than anything I find online with most with a 6" Flanges around 16.5 cm high ie RF-1042 and definitely nothing with M's in the product name. I also struggle to see how I would fit anything higher than 13cm without some major rework Or am I being over cautious and as long as I wash it now and then and reoil it will last forever even though it looks like its seen better days
  19. BUT - with a Nitto pump you NEED an extended sump. With an N1 pump/billet gears in a street car, you could get away with an OEM sump. Not sure if the OP already has an extended sump from the first couple of builds, then a Nitto pump is maybe a cost effective option. But if he needs the extended sump then thats another $600-$1000 on top of the price of the Nitto pump.
  20. Welcome to the tuff and unforgiving world of owning a gtr. shit gets expensive real quick but the best advice is to do it once and do it right. it might mean saving longer and having it off the road longer but at the end you have peace of mind it’s less likely to let you down in the future compared to cutting corners
  21. Yes there is one and it's widely available on eBay and through many Australian importers, in essence if it's PV-series you'll need this and if it's KV-series you'll need that The same seller provides OEM looking controls in English and if you want to get rid of Japanese altogether - conversion for the instrument cluster. I recognise it's not cheap but it's as direct from the solution developers as you can get.
  22. Would this be the normal Nissan one? So same as like in a X-TRAIL or Qashqai?
  23. I don't think you do, or else you wouldn't be bringing up DHL from Japan, which has nothing to do with your order with them. Relax, you'll get your parts mate. 👍
  24. This seems impossible to find a replacement. It doesn't have a part number. Does anyone know if you can copy one? Next question does anyone have one who can try?
  25. Yes, I do realise. nevertheless a bare minimum of customer service is customer service. If they don't want phone calls and queries perhaps enter the correct dates into their own customer information system, or spend 1 minute replying to one polite question, instead of ignoring it for a week.
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