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  2. Good result, is that on a hub or roller dyno? Also AWD or RWD? I'm just curious.
  3. Today
  4. Hay guys I brought this ecu and got told it's a rb20det is there anyway of telling without the stick on the outside cover? Cheers
  5. 10w-60 castrol edge or 15-50 Penrite HPR. Ticking is fine though, you arent pushing power or doing crazy track days. Even then, won't matter. Most likely will have around 180,000+ks on it.
  6. Hmm. 78k. Divided by 20 years. That's, um.... about....um....less than 4000km per year. And you believe that? It might have been 78k km in 2007.
  7. I've often been recommended Ferodo as well. Must be pretty good if you had to mention them twice. I'll stick to EBC Red for the Nissan but the crapbox BF wagon might get Ferodo instead of the Bendix Ultimates I've been buying on special every now and then.
  8. https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php All your questions have been answered there I still have my R31 which I bought 15 years ago! Spend the minimum amount on maintenance etc. Exhaust upgrades is meh, 2.25 with two good mufflers is plenty. Not worth on a standard RB30E. Spend the money on bushes, better brakes, suspension, tyres, etc. Loads to do before touching the engine and exhaust.
  9. admS15

    R32 GTR exhaust

    Very nice, top notch workmanship 👍
  10. Selling some stuff as Im going Single turbo. Garrett GT2560 -5 turbos (yes they are -5, i have measured the comp and exhaust wheels and spoken with Garrett) Good condition, minimal shaft play. $1200 Stock R34 GTR fuel rail with SARD 700cc injectors and Aeroflow fitting. $350 Twin Turbo pipe with divider welded in and MAP sensor bung. $75 Pick up Sutherland Shire
  11. They are pretty bulletproof. I had one at 360k km before it needed work. Just keep all your fluid levels right and they will keep going. The worst for me was thermostats went a bit for me. Easy fix. Post some pics bro. I’ve had series 2&3 shillouettes. Love the wedge look👌
  12. Alright sweet I’ll do that, your right I shouldn’t jump into trying to make it sound better an what not till the car is going perfect. I appreciate your advice an I will take it on board if there’s any common problems with this car that you know of as well let me know cause iv heard they have problems with over heating and the crank angle sensor, but yeah any other advice you can give me I’m more than willing to listen and learn cheers Jonathan
  13. NHB Automotive 😄 are doing 12% off all Elig Brake Pads for the month of August, no minimum sets required. www.nhbautomotive.com.au
  14. And put an insulating plastic cover over the +ve terminal!
  15. In that case I might look into the box to the rear tower strut bar with a latch over the top. Thanks for the note.
  16. Good effort - but note the standard you need to meet is something that will securely hold the battery in the event of a roll over.
  17. Why? Cause it's an NA with probably 350k on it.
  18. jeebus you have been busy, I thought you were bludging up there! good use of space....
  19. Mate that's a great result, I would say better than expected on 98. The Sard pump and injectors must be getting pretty close to being maxed out though. Good stuff 👍
  20. Really happy with tune 366kw low boost 390kw 2nd setting and 420kw high boost 18.5psi IMG_5120.MOV
  21. Well said. I’m onto my 7th skyline and I’m 41 years old. Would be down 70k over the years with money pumped in. Stereos,subs,exhausts,wheelsetc. Give it some love and it will love you back. Money is hard enough to get , without pumping it into something you will piss off in 18 months. Struts, bushes etc and just get the squeaks out of the old girl, and enjoy the 3litre beast.👌
  22. Hey Guys, I've seen quite a few different ways to mount a battery in the trunk but a lot of them involved welding or drilling holes into the chassis itself so I did a little experiment to see if there was a method that was non permanent (at least the battery mounting part). I started by cutting out a piece of plywood using the trunk carpet as a stencil. Then I started making a box. Since I didn't have a welder I used two different methods. For one piece I cut out a piece of metal and bent it into a U shape to make the bottom and two of the sides. Then I cut out one side and created a few 90 degree brackets and riveted them to hold one side. The other side I wanted to see if it would be easier to just make another U and rivet that on. After the box was assembled the rest was pretty easy. I drilled holes from the box into the wood, through the carpet to where I wanted to mount it. I also put a layer of foam on the bottom of the wood and countersunk screws to keep the bottom as smooth as possible. Test fit the battery. (Note: I had to cut the wood in half to get the whole thing into the trunk.) Put a foam sheet at the bottom of the box to protect the bottom of the battery from the hardware sticking up. I'll probably revisit this to make the wood a little more sturdy but here is the end product. (The extra hole was from before I put the foam in, I thought I needed it to feed the wire through lol) Not my best work putting the box together. I'll definitely re make the box to make it more aesthetically pleasing, maybe paint it.
  23. Yesterday
  24. You sound young. Here's a tip. Don't spend money on this car. As in, don't spend money you don't need to. Repairs to keep it going are fine. Don't get an idea that you need a new exhaust if the old one is working, then save up your pennies and throw it at the car the instant you have enough. Same with seats, wheels, etc. A new exhaust that is better than the old exhaust is only a good idea when the old exhaust is full of holes. New seats are a waste of money unless the old seats are buggered and/or will fail a roadworthy. Same with wheels, headlight globes, air filters, spark plug leads, etc etc etc. Own the car for a while. Decide if you like it. Save some money to NOT spend on the car. Do all these things, before getting carried away with throwing money at the car. In the meantime you will either fall in love with the car, or it will reveal itself to be a horrible money pit that you would be better off swapping for a Yaris (or it could do both). There is nothing worse than seeing every young lad follow the same path of throwing a ton of money into the first shitter that they get their hands on and every last dollar of that is effectively wasted. Now, I'm not ragging on you or your car. I'm sure that there are a few good R31s left out there and yours could be one of them. (But most of them have been used as mobile bong smoke storage devices for the last 25 years, so the odds are not real good!) I'm just giving you a free life lesson. And so, if you actually do have to replace the exhaust, then yes, a 2.5" system is a decent size for the power level. If you put a decent mid muffler in it and a Magnaflow or similar rear of a decent size it will give it a clean RB sound without it being too loud. Don't bother with stainless. Mild will likely outlast the car. If you want to spend time with the car doing things that make it look good and you feel good about it, there is nothing better than buying some cloths and some Meguiars (or similar) paint cleaning and polishing products and spending time bringing the paint and other surfaces back from whatever state they are currently in. Also, look to do thorough inspections on the brakes, the suspension bushes and arms etc, looking for wear, collapse, etc that will both cost you money and be a horrible safety problem if they fail while you're driving. Better to spend your time and effort learning about the things that really matter. Learn how to jack and support the car safely (so it won't fall on you and so the stands don't damage the underside of the car!) and start taking a close look at all the dirty bits.
  25. Hi all, I have bought a Bee R rev limiter ( I know they break engines, its just for a one off event) and I'm having some serious troubles wiring it into my R34 Gt (NA). So far I have my my yellow wire connected to pin 44 and 45 (tried both) Green is Connected to 46 and my power and ground wires are correct. The car starts and Runs with this set up but does not limit revs regardless of gain or rev 1/2 settings. Ive tried switching the the green and yellow wire and the car would only start if gain was set to 0 and as soon as gain was 1 or more it would stall. Has anyone else had this problem? if so how did you over come it. Edit; I have just noticed Pin 44 and 45 join a little brown box further down the loom. does this have anything to do with it? Thanks
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