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  2. G'day wagoneers, recently my starter motor died for my 2000 model Nissan Stagea 25t RS4S (Manual). Does anyone know of a replacement that fits? Having problems finding one. Brand new or 2nd hand.
  3. Today
  4. Wrong vvl is is nissans 4 cylinders engine such as SR,GA and some MR. VCT is series 1,2 and neo all neo
  5. Yesterday
  6. ^ Not even close. They abandoned all those silly rules years ago. So long as the wheel + tyre fits (doesn't stick out, doesn't hit the car), the rolling diameter stays within limits, and the track remains within the limit, you can fit anything. And no Turbo R33 has ever had 6" wide std wheel. Or 7s. All had the extra 0.5", unless GTR, which are of course 9".
  7. Welcome! Raises an interesting topic, I can't actually remember what made me initially drawn to the Skylines. I don't recall if I ever saw one on the roads or whether it was in Zoom Magazine when I was drooling over Jap engines to put into something.
  8. I'd be interested to hear peoples thoughts on the merits of G30-900 vs G35-900 on a built 2.7. It appears that the compressor, CHRA and comp cover are identical, just a different turbine and housing. I'm not looking to make 500kw and would like good response on the street, it seems to me that the G30-900 would be a good option, but I have a niggling concern that I might be trading off a reasonable amount of top end for very little transient/low rpm response. The engine is fully built but runs hydraulic lifters so max rpm is probably 7500
  9. Welcome, video of disintegrating Bridgestones not loading. Please rectify asap😀
  10. Thanks so much thats exactly the answer i needed. Im not running a link so ill do away with it. And yeah those others are just female spades seemingly just grounds so ill do away with those aswell
  11. Hey everyone! I'm new here! I am a 19 year old tyre fitter at bridgestone. My passion for cars started at a very young age when I was bought a au falcon look-alike go kart.When I was younger about 13 or so I heard a car speeding up the hill past me and all I saw was its rear end. A skyline r33, rear end and ever since that day I've dreamt of owning one! 102,000km 5sp manual top mount a/r 70 turbo
  12. i think the general rule of thumb (here in vic at least) in 2 up 1 out, so from the std 16"x6" up to and including 18"x7" but i could be wrong, ask your local tyre dealer they know the rules , it's their job
  13. Worth a shot, but not saying this will be it I had issues with my CAS a long time ago after i disturbed it when I did my timing belt. Spent a long time taking top timing cover off and running, and putting it back on and running Noise went away with it off and CAS mounted, came back when cover was back on with CAS Mounted From memory the spacers were not installed in the gasket or something fun along those lines. Eventually ended up replacing the CAS to as it had a horrible bearing noise It was already suggested above but it would be worthwhile taking the top timing cover off and see if noise goes away
  14. Take to Engine Shop Rebuilding an engine is not for someone who 'barely knows what they are doing'
  15. The First one looks like an aftermarket Knock sensor, might explain why its cut? Almost certain it is this: https://dealers.linkecu.com/KNS_2 The other two plugs not too sure. are they just a single flat female (as if they would slide over a male spade terminal?) One has standard looking conduit over it suggesting that this was an aftermarket addition as well maybe? There are some temp sensors that are just a single wire and earth through the base of the sensor so it may have been for oil and coolant temp sensors?
  16. Hey all Bumping this one up Is there any local alternative to this? I have found what must be similar to the listing in first post (see below link) Just not 100% sold on this yet, but would rather take my chances and blow $300ish on this than pay the ridiculous prices for a genuine one. Have searched as much as I can, haven't come up with much https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33053210701.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.267cf764LRx3hF&algo_pvid=f38c89fb-0177-49e6-92c0-044673bd2233&algo_exp_id=f38c89fb-0177-49e6-92c0-044673bd2233-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"67446442179"} These are the numbers that look like suit an R33 GTST Series 1: Zexel/Valeo number: 506221-1102 DKV-14D Nissan Number: 92600-15U01 Will go through NAPA and so on to see what I can find but not expecting much from them
  17. Hey Gareth, I've spoken with Chris our head engineer who together with his dad managed the Nismo Racing Mechanical team for around 22 years - feel free to call us after you knock off from work and he'll be able to jump on the phone with you Antonio
  18. ru1s

    Hi

    Registered, and back on the road again, 😁 so good to be driving her again. now the fun begins, sent Racepace an email. I want to get a baseline as how far she has fallen from factory in the last 26 years before we start discussing how much power we can give her. i mean i could do calculations all day power to weight and tyre contact patch ratio's and all that jazz but no point getting hopes up on a bazillion hp beast if the engine isn't going to handle it, right? after all, the only things i know that have been done to it is exhaust and speed limiter removed / bypassed. so i guess i'll wait to get a tune before we start looking at upgrades.
  19. All the Pro and Comp series IC are made to order. Unfortunately not off the shelf as you would think. I waited 2 months for mine LOL...
  20. Thanks mate, great advice. I just need to try and get one by the end of November now.. it can't hurt doing both and taking outside air in from the bumper or something like that.
  21. Hey man its been a very long time since i've been on the thread sorry man. Really good to see your car getting along, sounds like a lot of effort and love has been put into it. Currently my car is regoed in victoria as a non turbo from before the conversion lol, so that front mount might cause a bit of suspicion. All the work to the motor was carried out by rajab racing down here in melb, and its a bloody ripper of an engine. Has the beautiful iconic turbo dose. Still currently running the factory 5 speed gearbox so we'll see how long that holds up. Currently only making about 140kw on pretty low boost, once a stronger gearbox and possibly internals are bought and installed im hoping for around the 200-250kw mark. Car goes hard for what it is, extremely fun to drive. Here are some photos, will post some more exterior and interior ones soon if you like. Only exterior change is installed black ti wheels because they look much better than the silo wheels on the white car.
  22. Last week
  23. Half the kit is here so got a start. Just jap rears from eBay here in a few days, sleeka spares front kit direct from them, still stuck in Melbourne (rom SA) since the 22nd =\ Realised I do not have a 36mm socket so couldn't remove the rear hub, which is the half of the kit I have. Plan was to disconnect the arms to swivel the knuckle down to remove drive shaft and get access to the bolts at the back, after disconnecting them all the thought occurred to me that I can probably just disconnect the shalf at the diff and push it out of the hub instead and leave the arms, oh well. Do have a 30mm so prep'd the front. In love with new impact gun, in love with hoist, in love with small 12v power ratchet, Wish I had bought some of this years ago, makes life and working on the car so much nicer. Car looking even sadder now.
  24. Plazmaman Pro or Hypertune are the go. Plazmaman more likely available straight off the shelf and a bit cheaper. In all honesty, I would do the intercooler before you do too much else. Airboxes arent as essential as a lot believe, they do make a difference and they help and given they're fairly cheap and simple to make its not a terrible idea, but - an airbox isn't going to bring 60° charge temps down very much at all. 80° ambient temperature at the pod filter isn't terrible, your turbo is going to be heating the charge air a lot more than that. So your intercooler sounds horrendously inefficient. Cold air intakes from outside the engine bay are also unnecessary, the positive lift and drag you cause by doing that is more harmful to performance than warm IAT's. Unless you can duct air in from an existing opening in your front bumper. But in reality there is already plenty of cold air going to your pod filter, these engine bays are not stagnant pockets of hot air, there is plenty of movement in there. Get good intercooler, fit that, go for a retune. If your intake temps are still up over 50°, then think about making an airbox and fitting a water sprayer etc. But I bet you'll find a Plazmaman Pro cooler has your charge temps back down around the low 40's
  25. Ok so ive been making enquiries about intercoolers, massive waits at the moment for custom made.. so if anyone has any suggestions for off the shelf coolers would be great. Better yet, has anyone done a back to back with different coolers? I dont want to simply trade my chinese cooler in for the same one with a different brand stamped on it..
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