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  1. Today
  2. Quick question for Geoff (or others) Have there been many oil seal failures on the EFR's? I got one of the first batches of 7163's into Australia and since day 1 it has smoked. At the time I thought it was the valve stem seals (because I did them at the same time as installing the turbo and thought i'd stuffed one) but i just had the head reconditioned properly and and after 30-60 seconds of running the turbine housing is full of fresh clean engine oil. (see pic) I suspected it may have been from high oil pressure (90ish psi cold) but I have installed a new OPR 40... The other scunge is just from a first start from a block that's been sitting for a while. I'm not sure what to do now tho New CHRA/supercore? repair? upgrade to bigger? (really wanted to see how far this little bloke could go)
  3. Hey guys I’ve got a ADM S15 SR20DET all I’ve done is added a pod filter and completely removed the BOV and blocked it Planning to add these mods Free flow air filter Free flow exhaust Upgraded fuel pump Boost controller Front mount intercooler Colder spark plugs Custom ecu remap Z32 AFM? Just wondering do I have to upgrade injector,fuel rail and turbo? Or can my stock turbo, injectors and fuel rail handle it Aiming to get 200rwkw I don’t mind if it’s a bit less than that and not needing to upgrade the turbo, injectors and fuel rail and can i still run with without a BOV sorry for the noob questions any help will be appreciated thank you
  4. Anyone got a tailgate with a dayz rear wing?
  5. Ahhh OK thanks for the clarification, the attessa system has sort been one of those mysterious gadgets that I didn't wanna stuff with too much while it's working, the old "if it ain't broken"... I'm guessing that the amount of slip was noticeable enough to them to have said something, and they've done plenty of GTR and Subaru stuff on a regular basis to have made a note of it, hence asking the question if it is something that can be adjusted for future reference. On the road it has not been noticeable at all, as in it do not effect drivability in the wet or stuff like that and the 4wd light on dash doesn't flash etc, so not showing a code to diagnose and that is annoying
  6. Yesterday
  7. So, to save guess work I pulled the slave out and apart... Bingo,,,a big spring... I don't think it should be there... Is this factory or a mod ?. I suspect it loads the throwout bearing full time , which to me is a no.. I can't see the sense in replacing the clutch assembly only to have it fry again.
  8. All that money to make less power? (sucks in hot air from the engine bay)
  9. Would be better off modding factory airbox with a hose from front bar/under guard. ^^^^This. On e85 with a 100hp shot
  10. Removed the altia license plate holder and plastic welded in pieces of it to fill the gaps. More sanding and Plastic filler to come.
  11. Hey all, So I might just be a bit slow but wanted to check how these pedals are supposed to be installed. My R32 brake and clutch pedal are held on by a rubber portion and the accelerator by a clip. I got a set of old Nismo pedals that came with little screws/nuts but wanted to know how these are supposed to be mounted. Am I supposed to screw them on top of/into my current pedals? I don't see how they would be installed as complete replacements with the hardware that came with them. The R34 aluminum pedals on the other hand seem to be direct replacements as they look like metal versions of the regular rubber ones.
  12. Manual is on it's way
  13. well a common problem these days is the nitrogen cannister loosing pressuring requiring the attessa pump to run continuously which may mean the actuator is not fully engaging. anyway, I don't actually know how fixed the standard system was designed to be. SInce you were on a 4wd dyno, did they mention the concern because other cars they have run on it were noticably more consistent? Other than actuation issues (you would expect the computer to want max front torque on a dyno because it is 100% wheel slip), they are basically an auto trans inside with wet clutches so it is possible there is a mechanical issue in the transfer case too like worn clutches. I'd have to say that if my street car had 4wd varying by 10% in extreme conditions personally I wouldnt lose a moment's sleep. Different in a race car or if you genuinely need a perfect 4wd system for regular snow driving or something,
  14. Its still a waste of money. Maintain your car so that you can sell it later and put the money into your account for the purchase of the turbo powered car that you really want down the track when you have the full licence.
  15. Where exactly is the Plenum valves?? I have a 2006 Nissan Skyline, and it drinks way tooooo much fuel.
  16. R34 GTT Rb25det NEO Stock Cams Nitto Pistons and Rods. 9:1 CPR HyperGear ATR43SS-2 Turbocharger ID 1500cc injectors Walbro 525L fuel pump Power FC + Z32 AFM Greedy Profect B EBC 600x300x81mm PWR Cooler kit 3inches turbo back exhaust 4inches intake pipe with Pod Split fire coil packs Twin pulse manifold and twin 40mm gate. Car made 442rwkws @ 25psi, E85 fuel. With 280rwkws @ 4000RPM
  17. ATR43SS-2 billet ball bearing turbo, most people tend to use them as a low mount bolt on. It works fine supporting 300rwkws on P98, Once given E85 and external gate it pulled 442rwkws with 280rwkws @ 4000RPM. This is a super fun daily or track car.
  18. What the guys are saying make sense... spending your time and money and things that would make a bigger difference BUT i still recommend it bro, it will improve how the car sounds, you would enjoy it. Also... there is a forum here called "Naturally Aspirated Performance". you should check that one out. you are currently posted/browsing in the "Rb series" forum which is 99% based on the turbo models.
  19. I just installed a stage2 MV shift kit into my re4r01a in my fd rx7 and now it changes gear at 5900rpm instead of 7200-7400. Does anyone have any idea why? It's useless like this, Im really annoyed. Will call them after the long weekend, but i cant see it being able to be fixed without installing a different valve body :(
  20. Come on Guys.. leave the man do his thing, we were all there once, and dont even try and lie about it. Blitz makes a good one that bolts up to the Mass Air Flow sensor and replaces the big ugly box.
  21. Please elaborate and clarify?
  22. hi all have a r33 running bad barely running with loads of grey white smoke and over fueling with compression of 89 psi on cylinder 1 and highest of 105 on cylinder 6 anyone got help thanks james
  23. Just a couple of pics from our friend on her travels, was ment to post these up a while ago.
  24. Friends I hope lol, have seen a couple of bikes down your way I was gunna say "Hey Trev" lol but figured that would be just rude
  25. Hi guys, 2002 NM35 axis autech with VQD25DET motor 1 Could anyone supply a Throttle body pin out please , as well as a Wiring diagram? I have a throttle body and will replace the old one, but there could be possible wiring problems as well. I have located several posts but the attachments are no longer available. 2 Also where is the ECU located and how is it accessed . Thanks in advance 🥺
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