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  3. I also recommend you sell as it is, you might not profit if you tried fixing it if you're not a professional at that.
  4. do resumes differ in different countries??? then why did you mention that you came to Australia from UK?
  5. Not saying “hey Trev” is just rude
  6. Please tell us that you have read the oil control thread. If you have no, then you have circa the last 100 pages of it to read before you proceed. No whining, no pissing, no moaning. Just do it.
  7. I am personally building the motor I’m installing a nitto oil pump/crank collar, head drain and oil restrictors Along with the head can I use the stock sump with all that?
  8. Saw your car at all jap day, love the trak spec cars at those events
  9. Not to mention suicidal motorbike riders considering the one that drove into the back of the commodore (those things must be damn valuable with holden gone!) Good to catch up today and a big turn out considering very few posted up on here
  10. I don't know if it will fix the problem in your case, but the oil cap vent is the quickest bandaid way to improve things to find out....
  11. I know this is an old thread, but thought I would bump it instead of making a new one. Could this not be resonance from the worsening shaft play? This happened on a stock R33 I had years ago, and it never got worse, but the car was rear ended so I never got to see how it turned out. Now it's happening on my new R33, which had never made the noise before. I've had exhaust leaks before and it doesn't sound like that, and if it were an exhaust leak wouldn't it stick around under load? This sound lasts for about a second, and it's during transient throttle, like the turbo was spooling a bit but is now slowing down. It seems to me like the turbine is spinning up, under load so it doesn't wiggle, then when you're off throttle, it's briefly unloaded as it's between vacuum and boost, so it can wiggle a bit and begin to resonate.
  12. Haha that's a good question. Dont intend to race the car atm. But in the distant future I may go up to 500+bhp and was wondering if it's worth a purchase then
  13. The only problem is that the Sumitomo caliper bolts don't have any such markings. But they will be a high tensile grade. They have to clamp pretty hard.
  14. So not at all worth it is what I'm hearing haha. At what power figure are cams even worth considering?
  15. In the mean time some people just make a cover for the oil cooler and remove it for the track (or the summer).
  16. As above, and just to add bolts will have the tensile rating stamped on them in the head, so no mysteries. Go to bolt shop with bolt.
  17. Give us an idea where they are??
  18. Just wondering if anyone here has had any work done at kass bodyworks? Looking at getting a repsray done potentially. thanks
  19. I'm pretty sure that there won't be a part number for that bolt. The caliper was supplied to Nissan as a unit. 1 part number. The bolt will have a part number in Sumitomo's system, not Nissan's. it is just a bolt of suitable dimensions and tensile strength for the application. You have one in hand, so you know the exact dimensions that you need. All you need to know is what rating is good for calipers. I haven't ever considered splitting a caliper before - it not being very advisable and seldom necessary, so I've never been in a position to lose on and then have to wonder what grade the bolts are. But if I had to guess I'd suggest they'd be at least 10.9. Probably wise to ask a brake shop for guidance on that.
  20. What in God's name is the part number for this bolt?!? It's one of the 4 that hold the 2 halves together
  21. R34 garage impul body kit brand new. 250 firm. Pickup glenmore park nsw 2745
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