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  3. Far as the fuel reading it looks like you should be using pin 7 and 55
  4. 20201126_154418.mp4 UPDATE She is awake!
  5. UPDATE So i should have mentioned im fully replacing my dash with a haltech ic7 display so my factory dash was not plugged in Once i plug the original dash in im getting voltage output there. Fuel light came on and i was getting a fluctuating voltage of 1.0v to 0.9 volts fuel light just came one. Filled up voltage now reads fluctuating 0.15 to 0.10 volt liters filled to this point was 51 liters so im lead to belive these sedans have a 60L tank so i know zero on my haltech ill have approx 10L left. My question is if i unplug the dash will i still get a reading now or am i missing a wire to join in the harness iim lead to belive no
  6. All reassembled and airbox partition modified to suit and refitted, kinda sneakily looks like it's factory, the satin black hides its dimensions I reckon, now the wait for 2 weeks till tuning day😔
  7. Hey guys im trying to get my fuel level to work also on my haltech ic7 dash. I have an r34 4 door and im using pin 6 as signal and pin 55 as ground but im not getting any voltage value with a multimeter. I currently have 1/4 tank and testing them two wires at the tank plug or at the dash i get the same reading (shows 0.01v this doesnt seem right). Can any one shed any light on this. Ive setup the dash on avi 1 and calibrated to 0 to 90 ohms, factory is ment to be 6 full 80 empty attached is a pinout for an r34 4 door for any one else chasing a diagram pin out. Am i missing a step or not testing the right wires??? Thanks guys
  8. Yeah but they are not that much cheaper than a triple plate
  9. I did this. now my wallet is empty. but if your car has sentimental value, it’s totally worth it
  10. And here's the details for the GT2860R - the 707160-5 version , again note the turbine dimensions and trim . https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/search?q=GT2860R A .
  11. I think FROM MEMORY (which is 7+ years old a memory now, maybe longer) you CAN snip the wires from the gearbox TO the TCU, and connect them to the corresponding pin on the GTT Engine ecu. I know it is documented on the workshop manuals as to what the pins on the TCU are *for* and there is a corresponding pin on the Engine ECU. I noticed this when I was removing the OEM TCU and wiring it into an aftermarket gearbox ECU. I never tried it myself, as I had an aftermarket ECU running the engine anyway. Yes, my fix for this at the time was run a standalone engine ECU for the GTT motor, and run a seperate gearbox ECU to run the gearbox, as the car sat around for 3 years outside of my control while it took specialized JDM workshops to... not... look at the manual and figure it out. Then there's the issue of the fact the NA gearbox is a piece of shit. The GTT gearbox when built up isn't exactly daily friendly either or performance friendly. Spend 10K+ on that. To get this absolutely clear, you won't have a nice, working enjoyable car unless you do the equivalent of an engine/gearbox swap, because that is what you will be doing. And why go to that effort.. for a NA+T and a... N/A auto box? Return everything not bought yet. Sell car. Buy 86. Add turbo. Posting here for future googler's reasons. There is no cheap way to a R34 GTT via a NA+T given the price differences. There never was, but there still isn't now.
  12. GT2560R note turbine dimensions . https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/search?q=GT2560R
  13. Sorry people bum steer , that link was to details of the GTSS/GT2859R . https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2011/03/garrett-gt28-gt2854r-270-hp.html This one should take you to the GT2854R and note the second and third pics of the turbines . A .
  14. If you are speaking about RB26 spec GTSS turbo dimensions then that is correct Just for another layer of confusion there was also an SR20 spec version of the GTSS but it had the larger NS111 53.8mm 76 trim version of the GT28 turbine . Same as your turbos had . Back to the RB26 style GTSS turbos . These use a cropped version of the GT28 NS111 turbine so they'd measure 53.8mm 62 trim . The smaller trim means they have a smaller exducer and outlet diameter than the 707160-5 turbos . Also to these part numbers . Often on the turbos ID tag there are inconstancies . For example one of these turbos may have 707160-5 , another identical one may have 707160-5005 . Often people , and Garrett , quote turbos by a dash number ie -9 or -7 or- 5 . It makes life difficult . Anyway the best way I can describe GT25 and GT28 BB turbos is by their turbine dimensions and their number of blades . 11 blades can mean GT25 OR GT28 turbines . The 53mm outside diameter ones are GT25 . The 53.8mm outside diameter ones are GT28 . The GT25 11 bladed turbine is generally 62 trim . The BASE model GT28 turbine is also generally 62 trim . The GT28 NS111 9 bladed turbine , remember - GT28 turbine 53.5mm OD , comes in two trim sizes . Most were 76 trim BUT there was a special version in 62 trim for specific applications . Note that this NS111 62 trim turbine has almost exactly the same dimensions as the 11 bladed GT28 turbine - 53.8mm OD 62 trim . As far as I know the cropped 62 trim NS111 turbine was only available in two turbos , firstly the RB26 style GTSS/707160-9/707160-5009 (all same) , and secondly the GT2854R . I found a link to details of that GT2854R and they kindly have pics of the differences between the GT2554R and GT2854R turbines , totally different 11 and 9 blade forms . https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2011/03/garrett-gt28r-gt2859r-56-trim-310-hp.html Cheers A .
  15. Unfortunately the goings on have been very slow. Progress has stalled for the last 6 months nearly waiting for a body shop to commit to the job. Finally got a shop organised but it has been on their rack for over a month now. Times are busy and funds are low so not too stressed but it's not fun. In other news I purchased another rb25 swapped 32 which I'm going to be fixing up and flipping to use the profit on the gtr.
  16. Series1 Bayside Blue and Midnight Purple cars had black engine bays. Series 2 was body colour. Other colours were body colour though, my white BNR34 Vspec came with a white engine bay. Although the paint is matt and dull. Series 1 will have blue build plate, Series 2 will have silver build plate, unless it's a Nur of course.
  17. Yes it's always been a wicked to drive car, with very wicked breakages to go with it. Power delivery was like a light switch before when it was running 10s. This time around so far, so good - everything feels as it should. Handles good, very progressive off boost and the dog box operates well. I am still yet to really lean on the car in kill mode as it hasn't seen a dyno since the 6466 has gone on. Making sure all the bugs are ironed out first. All tuning so far has been done by myself on the elite. That's why I thought I better pull my finger out and fit the rest of the trigger kit so I get it running on E85 (just need more tuning) and can turn the wick up. Found the rest of my trigger kit finally
  18. Wow, it certainly has been a mission! You've thrown some serious parts at it! Must be an absolute beast to drive?
  19. @Tobz allegedly they lose money on practically every car they sell in Australia. You can only do that for so long. If that's the case then they need to have a good hard look at their manufacturing and supply chain expenses as every other brand seem to be able to pull it off successfully. On top of that Hondas certainly aren't cutting edge, latest technology so I really can't understand how that can be. Their expenditure on innovation in the cars has been minimal. No all new models to speak of, minimal upgrades to existing models (which for the most part are already waaaaay behind competitors vehicles in terms of technology). As I said, I see some writing on the wall and what is written aint good......
  20. You reminded me that earlier this year Honda was considering leaving the aussie market, im guessing if this doesnt work, they are likely to withdraw. May be they only stayed to trial this as a last ditch attempt to be profitable in aus? Update: Honda rules out leaving Australia, but may reduce its dealer network or appoint an independent distributor | CarAdvice
  21. Honda are deliberately targeting selling a lot less cars under the agency model. They're predicting selling almost half as many cars under the new format. I'm really not sure where they're going with their plan of attack. They will make MORE money out of each car as they're taking the middle man out in effect, but overall they will make less money as they will sell a lot less parts down the line having half as many customers needing their cars serviced. They have a MASSIVE shitfight on their hands though before anything goes ahead as first they will get their arses sued off by all of the dealers that have had their dealer agreements torn up which is in breach of those contracts. Those dealers (11 in Victoria alone) will be suing for lost revenue until the expiration of their contracts (in some cases 2 or 3 years of earnings) Added to that what they're offering the dealer network as a delivery fee has been seen as being far from acceptable so the remaining dealers that haven't got the arse and will be the dealers performing the agency model are fighting the whole thing going ahead at all unless Honda come to the party. I'd be surprised if Honda outlasts all of this. Yes I know that's a big call but they have a LOT going on and none of it is good....
  22. Also, i know this sounds stupid, but make sure the bolts to the timing cover are tight.... if its a little loose it sounds like your big end bearing is gone.... scared the crap out of me the other night
  23. Also if Merc and Honda go to fixed price, i assume they would need to lower their prices so people dont go elsewhere to negotiate a new deal, or they will run a lot of special deals to get people to come to them rather than negotiating a cheaper price at BMW or Mazda. Orrrr they may price their cars competitively, forcing others to also fix their prices at a competitive level. Orr they form a cartel and rip all of us off (probably this option right?)
  24. ATS also offers carbon twin plate at a lower price, at 500rwhp you don't have to get their triple plate.
  25. hmmm try the same thing on the Traction control button. Or pull out the ABS fuse maybe 🤷‍♂️
  26. I use to own a Tesla, there was no negotiation at all, the price is the price, its all done online. I was OK with this as its the same for everyone. However when we went to buy the wifes new car and my ute earlier this year, all gloves were off as I didn't want to be the chump overpaying... I preferred the Tesla model personally.
  27. Been trying to find the time to actually work on my own cars. Got a few things done recently like actually fitted the ARD 150a alternator. Got round to replacing the Nismo 1.3bar radiator cap in the PWR radiator to a proper Stant 16psi lever cap as recommended by PWR. Removed the brand new AD08R yokies from the GT1 wheels and replaced them with new Hankook RS4. Big reason is I think the 265 AD08 seemed just a tad too big, the 265 RS4 is noticeably narrower from sidewall to tread and fit better. The AD08s went onto my R33 TE37s to replace the very aged V103s so they weren't wasted and fit a lot nicer to that car. So today I'm off to tackle finally installing the Ross crank trigger kit that I got about 18 months ago. Never done one before but hopefully this will be pretty straightforward. Also found a couple of pics if when the 6466 went in to replace the ageing HKS T51.
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