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  2. More like 2psi up top, his actuator is weak hence his gate is being blown open by the exhaust gasses. Also your motor isn't tired, I had a motor well over 200000km and put in 25psi into it, last about 1.5 years of track use before it went bang LOL
  3. Yesterday
  4. Where are you getting the checks done ? I wouldn't mind doing it on my own GTRs to have the paperwork. I did buy them a long tome ago though, so I dont know if anything will come up. Bought my 33 in 2003 and my 32 in 2007.
  5. He is asking about PAR engineering, not PPG. Pfitzner is fairly well documented as there is a lot more in existence. Dog engagement over synchro you mean, as straight or helical cut gears have nothing to do with clutchless shifting, and is essentially the reason you get a dog box. You go straight cut gears as the load on the gear tooth is even, as opposed to helical which causes a thrust / side load effect. The more torque you have the more this becomes a problem, which is why I'm very surprised the OS-88 and PPG sequentials are helical, and the main reason I have not purchased one. If I want a sequential it would most certainly be a Holinger.
  6. Wait, so, you have a SR20VET somehow but not sure what to put it into? Your fabrication skills are unknown, but you have a SR20VET so. If you don't got the skills, my answer is a S13 or something it'll bolt into. If you do have the skills, my answer is MX5.
  7. Well....check under the bonnet for a green relay you can live without for a moment and swap it into the boot....
  8. Yea the green relay in the boot is the one clicking. I’m leaning more toward fuel being the issue. Just not sure to start with the pump or the relay
  9. Yea the green relay in the boot is the one clicking. I’m leaning more toward fuel being the issue. Just not sure to start with the pump or the relay
  10. When you say 'it turns over and dies instantly' I guess you mean it does start at least momentarily, rather than just turning over and not starting? Starting with the relay, there are 2 in the boot, either side of the lock. The larger one is for 4wd and is often the cause of regular clicking, which is generally a problem with the accumulator needing to be recharged or replaced. The smaller relay (either green or blue, can't remember) is the fuel pump relay. It sounds to me like a fuel supply problem and the most obvious reason is being our of petrol. If not I'd get a multi meter onto the fuel pump terminals to make sure there is battery voltage for the first 3 seconds when someone turns the key to IGN. That should confirm there is power where there should be which would say dead fuel pump. Otherwise if there is no power there, there is some electrical issue so you'd look at relays, fuses to the fuel pump
  11. Awesome, nice work - that is REAL promising Pretty amazing you could get to 470kw at around 114,000rpm with a leak like that - not to mention the spool not sounding that bad considering. Also if it was able to do that with that kind of leak it makes it seem like the hotside will not be any real restriction, if all the air that's being moved actually gets into the engine then the hotside will have to work WAY less. You'll probably get significant gains everywhere, even psi for psi. This is going to be a beast, good luck for next week!
  12. I think people are taking it too far now. So many have been trying to sell their cars as 3-4 rating and when you ask them for paperwork to back it up they say it’s lost. I run my Japanese rego checks and surprise, they’re all accident cars. Beware guys, run an online report before buying anything. I have spent hundreds of dollars so far but it’s the best tool on God’s green earth when buying a Japanese car.
  13. Small update guys: I've reached the spaghetti stage of the build. In the process of wiring in the Haltech. Using bussed Deutsch plugs for the power supply to the injectors and the coil packs. I've mostly sussed out the Drive By Wire setup, it's reasonably straight forward to wire in too. Apart from that I've got a shitload of leftover inputs/outputs, which is to be expected with a 'basic' N/A build. However I'm going to run a separate loom with these in it, so they'll be easy to access if/when the time comes for a change or upgrade.
  14. So I’ve had my R32 GTR for a little over a week and have been driving no problem. I was driving around today and stopped and got gas and drove off with still no issues. I got to my last stop and shit the car off and was gone for maybe 10 minutes. Come back, turn the key and let the fuel pump prime and go to start her up. She rough idled for about 5 seconds before dying, now she will turn over and die instantly. I’m pretty lost on what the issue could be. Also a relay in the trunk by the tail lights clicks ever 10 or 15 seconds when the key is turned to accessory.
  15. Yeah, it's tough. People want to sell off their junk and want to mislead people on the condition.
  16. So my RB25 has compression, gets fuel, gets good spark, has injection pulse and timing should be ok but it wont run (idle/response throttle at all). 1 of 50 Cranks it runs, but very poorly. While it runs i have unplugged the MAF and it stalls right away. By turning the CAS, rpm will change maybe by 100-300rpm but it doesnt effect pretty much. Turning also the TPS does not effect so much that it would help, maybe with 100-300rpm also. While pressing the throttle it sound really wierd, i took an video of it: It backfires alos alot if it would not start. Any suggestions what should i check? Here also a video of it while cranking it:
  17. I’m running a full dogbox in my r33 1-5 straight cut and I don’t see why people say you can’t drive them on the street, it’s fine just a little loud. Takes a little bit to get used to but I have no problems driving it to the super market or picking the kids up. One huge advantage having a straight cut box is you don’t need to use the clutch to shift up at any rev, makes racing of any kind that much better. Have to add that the guys at PPG are always free to talk if you have any problems or wish to no anything and if something was to brake there only a stone throw away to get a new part
  18. If Kustom20 no longer does this stuff, does anyone know of someone who can do similar? Basically looking for an alternative..
  19. Yeah decided to make it look less boy racer haha. Didn't want to push to hard with this setup. The engine is pretty tired haha
  20. Hey guys, Building a rb20det and about to pick up some billet oil pump gears and as the listing description says it's 20/25/26 oil pump gears and i would just like clarification that they're the same. I've done a little bit of searching but cannot find the answer.
  21. Hi mate, not yet. already booked tune next week. the leak is fixed. the hose is like 10mm or 12mm hose pop off. you can put your finger in that hole. and when i drive back to home i can feel it response much better. and i got 0.35 bar at 2500 rpm.
  22. A few shots of the box. Has a modified 10 plate transfer behind it with an ATS triple plate clutch.
  23. Sorry put the question on the wrong thread, posted on hypergears
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