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  2. I don't think it's a straw man argument at all.. The OP clearly posted it with a view to keep it stock looking as they intend to use it as a road car, so "Stock looking" is "Stock looking, Mr Policeman observing my road car" As many have said, there are 0 instances of this actually being done. As many have also said, 1000hp RB26's at all, have a limited lifespan on a racetrack, measured in hours in terms of reliability, and they don't look stock. So to answer the original question, how difficult is it to have a 1000hp, reliable, stock looking setup on the street? I'd say extremely.
  3. I have actually had my car for over 10 years now, so this build thread is retrospective. It may or may not have been prompted by going through many old photos. There are many broken things in these photos, and over the years since getting my humble NA+T Auto sedan (without any knowledge of it being NA+t and not a GTT) It has, in somewhat sequential order. Replaced the NA+T with a GTT engine. Exploded that GTT engine on the dyno immediately. Replaced fuel pump 9 times, some dead pumps, some melty wiring. Also managed to somehow break a R34 fuel tank multiple times, in the red circled area! Thanks, Optima! Replaced the ECU that caused this (TLDR Emanage Blue's are shit, but it was 2008) Built a forged RB with a 2.9 Stroker kit, proceeding to break everything around the car minus the components of this kit. By this I mean 3x RB25 DET Neo blocks, and a head. Here's some nice engine building photos, and quite a bit of engine GORE. This kit seemed to be the most indestructable thing again, as the engine found itself apart more times than together. Each time every component was tested, retested, Xrayed, and it was ready for more. However it seems everything else around it wasn't! Along the way, Blown up the shift kitted MV auto gearbox, near instantly. Built a GTT Auto gearbox, complete with aftermarket TCU, which broke Trent's dyno @ Chequered, forcing him to upgrade it. Had Hypergear, Garrett, GTX3076, Turbos.. .....Drove the car into an enbankment and had to reshell entire car. Re-Wiring the Automatic gearbox into a different/new car was a seamless easy experience, with absolutely no problems whatsoever! GTX3582, and Borg Warner EFR7670's as Turbos after that.. Many dyno sheets of all these setups, over my approximately seventy million trips to chequered tuning. Looks great, doesn't it? Many in progress shots but these turbo setups had their own problems oh boy did they ever! There was also a 6boost manifold that had to be machined 2mm so it was actually flat... photos.... somewhere. 3-4 different sets of rims over this time. Complete with brake upgrade kit, with its own f****king issues!! Just after the Borg Warner EFR Turbo, the auto found its way exiting my vehicle,, and the car was manually converted, and to quote to the words of JMA's automotive: "Never bring this f**king car here ever again!" so I'm sure the install was smooth, and had absolutely no problems at all in any way. Somewhere along the line, seats were installed/upgraded/tested: Drove the car to Adelaide, all was well, all happy with the world, to find out I almost melted the car to the ground 7 different ways from sunday due to how lines, and wiring was packaged. Delicious. Hilarious, brief (oh god, so very brief) backstory complete, this all cumulated with ripping apart the entire car and starting again. I then, replaced every bush in the car, LS Converted the motor, and is now currently Legally engineered in Victoria (incl full EPA/IM240 test passing experience). Info continued. Previous info can be elaborated on if anyone cares first! Bonus installation photo of my friend helping me with my Bilsteins (which Bilstein revalved to suit the LS when I got the whole thing weighted when that was done).
  4. I'm going to get an analysis done on my gearbox oil at Mainlube in Botany. I'll drop off the sample to them, it will take 30 minutes for the test and evaluation, from there we will make a call of what is required. I only need to grab 2.5ltrs of the stuff so additional cost isn't really a worry . I might end up getting a oil from them, they build their oil packs on site based of the analysis, type of metals used and the use and service schedule. I'll post up when it's done, give me a few weeks. Maybe this is something I should have done with the Skyline, that thing would chew the case hardening of the gears after a few hard launches, it ate 3 gearboxes that way when I had it. I have heard of people getting tests on engine oil, but never gear box oil. And as the Aisin 6 speed is rated to 250nm, and I'm currently at around 280nm ATW, it might be cheap insurance for gearbox longevity. Maybe?????πŸ¦„πŸ¦„πŸ¦„πŸ¦„ https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...WIKIXS_zCTWs6-
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  6. There are a lot of things I could say to this glorious demo of building a strawman argument, but the most obvious would be - what exactly are you doing in this thread if the sheer mention of 1000hp clearly triggers your fear response?
  7. It is interesting and clearly OP has the skills (and confidence) to get the project done. The confusion will come from most people considering it a side-grade at best, given the amount of work thats been pumped into it which is un-reachable by most of the people here (self included) For a result which most would say... is at best.. different. You'd find some would prefer either a R32 OR a R34, but not necessarily a front 32 on a 34, or vice versa. The only universally accepted front body swap seems to be a GTR or R34 GTT front end onto a stagea πŸ˜› But you know what - This is is what this section of the forum is for.. cosmetic styling and its some new content in here for once πŸ˜›
  8. Yes all of the stated in various ratios but it wasn't a Nissan motor ! It was an old school Holden 6 cylinder motor
  9. If you wanna stay relatively stock... (not opening anything or changing turbo) A nice Clutch will help but 100% a nice light weight flywheel is a great bang for buck upgrade and will make a very noticeable improvement. but if you have a r34 GTT make sure you get a pull type clutch as that is what you will need. I have a SPEC stage 3 , 6 puck and SPEC light weight flywheel You can also safely crank up the boost 2 or 3 pounds from stock with out having to worry too much. You can also invest in some high quality lightweight rims and good tires, it actually makes a world of difference. you wont believe how extremely heavy shit replica wheels are and how it affects performance. A nice supporting mod as well is a front mount intercooler, you can get decent kit from CX racing if you are on a budget. Idk where you live and your laws but my 34 is straight piped, only a single muffler tip. bro .... we can go on and on and on for hours, you gotta set a power goal and then see what you need to achieve it safely. for example if you want 450 hp, you will need X-cc injectors X-lph fuel pump X-size turbo and anything past 15-18 psi you will surely be reaching the limits of your Air Flow Meter and then at this point you gotta get a nice Stand alone Aftermarket ECU.
  10. what is your source on this information? do the RPO codes also translate to the blocks for those models. if not does the source provide a similar graph for the block identification
  11. Those wheels are gone, they were four lug, so when I switched to 5 lug I traded my old audi wheels to a kid for his stock 350z wheels and picked up some free tires from the local tire shop just so I could set her back on the ground and let all the new suspension components settle
  12. Carton of esse change , esse menthol and esse lights for sale. 10 packs per carton, 200 cigs per carton $160 per carton
  13. Hi mate all sold out sorry :(
  14. Far as turbos go, with a .64 rear and .60 front that is very possible, you can even up size them to GTX3071R. I found factory exhaust setup is very restrictive, so if you can run two short 3 inches pipes hanging out side of the car along with all other supporting mods you should be able to get there.
  15. Well on Thursday I saw two different R33 GT-R's in silver around south melbourne.
  16. Because I can. Why else...LOL haven’t you heard of thinking outside of the box or being creative...is this not allowed on this site? Should I search this forum on how to keep my skyline stock? The question for you is why would I do that... I already built it once.
  17. I was going to suggest a thread guy. They will be able to work their magic there. I found the underneath bolts were pretty easy with a 1/4 drive socket and extension.
  18. I wouldn't say I am that confident in extracting broken bolts. I have taken the plenum off before, was a bit of a pain getting to those bolts underneath, but if it has to be removed again then so be it. One other thought, would a mobile thread doctor possibly have the right tools to get to it?
  19. Taking off the plenum is hardly a huge job you would want to avoid at any cost. How good are you at extracting broken bolts like that? If you have never done it before don't even try. Take off the plenum and do it on a bench. Thank me later.
  20. No. Personal opinion, if you are going to price an auto 32 at 15k, give the car a decent detail. Without inspecting it, I don't want to say it's overpiced, but posting pics of it with it covered in dust, flat tyre, not vacuumed, just gives an impression of disrepair. Based on the images my expectation going into an inspection would be to buy the car for around 4-5k. And that's it if turns on and selects/holds gears.
  21. gmr

    LMGT4

    WTB silver LMGT4 18x8.5 +25 and 18x9.5 +30. Had two sets back in the day, first set on my old S15 pictured below. Please message me 0447 738 908. Thanks
  22. I seem to have a little bit of space there once I push some of the wiring etc out of the way. I took a photo and circled the bolt in question. I might look into one of those right angle drill attachments off eBay. The only thing is the broken bolt is not smooth and a bit jagged. Thanks for your help
  23. Thanks. Thats the main aim, looking for something relatively stockish looking, that I can use with a harness at track days. this seems a good solution.
  24. Another option. How much space do you have back there? Enough for a pneumatic right angle drill? If you can drill it and you have enough room for the tap/ezy-out, then it's worth a shot.
  25. Mate, I had a look for them, no luck, I think they unded up at the tip after a big cleanup.
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