I recently bought a 2nd hand Nismo 320km/h cluster for my R32 GTR. I understand that there are two versions, one for earlier series 32, and another for the later 32's. The seller assured me it was working 100% in an early model (1990) R32 GTR, which is the same as mine.

I installed it yesterday, it fit perfectly, and all the plugs in the back went in fine - but when using the car, the temperature gauge doesn't work and the RPM doesn't work either. The speed reading works and is perfectly accurate, but power steering stops working shortly after.

It's also the blue-back one, with 4 screws at the back of the speedo; this all suggests that it's for a later model as well, where the electrical signal for speed for the power steering is different.

I've seen a tutorial on here about swapping the speed sensor over from an old cluster, but is there any reason that the temperature gauge doesn't work as well? Are there any other differences on the later cluster that mean I shouldn't waste my time trying to use it in an older GTR at all?

I was thinking caping one of the MAFs and using the other as the one to allow me to pressurize the system. Trying to make sure I'm good before I go and dial her in on a dyno with a tune. 

Another question... I rebuilt the internals on the stock turbos and had em balanced and I do build boost as I was before but now I hear them spool up inside the cabin. Sounds kinda like a jet engine type sound. That normal? Just making sure. 

Andre 

My questions are as follows:

1) Why would someone do this?

2) Where is the first line meant to go exactly? I deduced from other threads/images that the middle line goes to the throttle body (currently my first line does) and the 3rd line goes to the manifold (currently my second line does), but I can't figure out where that 1st line is meant to go to.

If there isn't any obvious reason for this set up I would like to reroute the lines to their usual spot. Probably unrelated, but I stall after revving and have idle issues, and I know this coolant affects an air flow valve hence my interest.

(backstory)
Car wouldn't start, got NRMA (roadside assistance) out to jump start, and he tested the battery while car was running, to check alternator (14.## volts), he said alternator was OK, so we drove it home. Next morning, went to get a new battery, car started OK, but at autoparts store, they tested battery and came back 'bad'. Bought a new battery, installed it....

Basically car is idling/stalling, which I 'think' might have to do with replacing the battery. Starting the car, it would start, then die. Only way to get it to start is to apply a little accelerator. After a few seconds, remove acceleration and car would idle, poorly (probably around 500rpm +/-). If I accelerate (1-2k rpm), and release foot, rpm would drop right down <500rpm, almost stalling, then it would pop back up again.

I thought maybe fuel was dirty, but Mum said she fueled up a few days ago, but didn't notice any issues.
I checked air filter in case blocked, didn't seem to bad, a little dirty, but nothing suss.
Checked oil in case was low, and maybe causing friction in cylinder.. probably very unlikely, or pointless, but figured why not, while I had the hood up. (oil was 50% full, but needs changing)

I have heard that replacing a battery can turn the ECU dumb, causing it to have to relearn. I've come across a few procedures, but none seem to work;

http://afiaustralia.com.au/images/stories/N16_pulsar_idle_fault.pdf
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/nissan-idle-relearn-procedure/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR-AjHCslhs
https://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-ecu-relearning-procedures-t445702.html

Following the steps in the 1st link, step #6 says to "disconnect Throttle position sensor (brown in colour) connector", but there is no brown connector, just a single green one. A service manual I found shows a diagram with a brown (throttle position sensor), and a Grey (closed throttle position switch), but our Pulsar just has a single green connector. When I disconnected / reconnnected that one, the accelerator went limp, couldn't rev the car. Had to turn car off for several seconds, then on again, now back to square one.

I tried an OBDII reader too, just one of those ebay jobs, with the Torque (lite) Android app, but I got an error in Torque,

still loaded into Torque, but pretty much nothing would connect (except acceleration, which maybe ran off protocol 3, which I think Torque said was OK). I tried OBDLink, but wouldn't work unless I had one of their readers. Also tried BlueDriver, but wouldn't detect my reader :/.

Note: i just found this entry on wikipedia regarding the QG18DE engine;

OBDII – On-board Diagnostic System (codes can be read/erased by a variety of readers, e.g. Actron blaZt). Nissan Pulsar N16 Models without EuroOBD in Australia do not have OBDII.

If the car doesn't have OBDii reader.. what does it have? It has the port under the dash that connects a reader, so it must take something ?

Vehicle is a 2003 Nissan Pulsar N16 Auto 1.8L QG18DE engine.

Thoughts ?

Thanks in advance.

i am trying to remove the 4 19mm bolts that attach the Rear bearing to the rear hub. I have nfi how people do this with the hub attached to the car, all the guides just say move the driveshaft back a bit, but mine doesn’t move any further back and I can’t get a socket on the the bolts as the driveshaft interferes.

anyone got any ideas? Any help would be awesome!

1. What else can cause leak-down test results to be 'high' in a healthy engine?

2. Can truly healthy engines produce high leak-down test results?

3. If high-duration camshafts can be the cause of high leak-down results, why do they cause this?

4. Are leak-down tests reliable measures of engine health for moderately worked engines? i.e. are the definitions of high and low results only relevant for standard cars?

Any definitive insight (rather than speculation) would be much appreciated.

I just recently purchased the arc super induction box for my r32 gtr. I tried to install it and the directions are in Japanese which makes it a bit difficult. I’ve searched the forums to see if anyone else has had this problem or if there any tutorials but I couldn’t find any. It looks like I may possibly need to purchase some additional bolts to mount the intake manifolds into the box itself but I am not entirely sure. Thanks everyone!

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Wondering if anyone can help me, had some rain here recently and noticed water got into the cabin. I'm pretty sure it happened while it was parked and not driving. It's only in the driver side footwell and I've checked the fire wall and there is no obvious place for water to enter (such as a grommet or such.

Have pulled the carpet back and it looks like it's leaking from the centre console maybe? Just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or has any thoughts on where this could be from?

The water patch seems to be from the left of the clutch pedal against the gearbox tunnel (can see the discolouration on the photo.

Any help would be sooo good  (is in a R34 GTT)

First time taking it for a drive and I cannot get into the car with either the central locking or the key itself.

Just can't get more then half way with the key on both doors. Worked fine a week ago with central locking.

But now with that I only get one beep and that's to arm the alarm. No two beeps for unlocking.

I don't hear any locking mechanisms going at all

Boot lock turns and works.

Also

I have had a new battery fitted recently.

So my r32 GTR has been having trouble getting PS to work again after replacing bits.  The system blew it's main feed line and sucked up tons of air and it blew the bearing out the front. I had since rebuilt a donor PS pump, changed every soft line in engine bay, replaced all copper washers for high pressure lines, and replaced rear return line to rack. I have bled the car over and over on and off. I have sucked fluid out the rear bleed valves. Still no assist when the car is put on the ground.  No leaks anywhere and no bad sounds at startup or ever.

I've stuffed up again. While doing, what should have been, a simple front swaybar installation I managed to round the thread for one of the D-bracket bolts. (see pic)

I'm now trying to re-thread the bugger but it's in a very difficult spot. I was just wondering if anyone can confirm for me that it's ok to remove this whole bracket that the castor rods mount to so that I will have enough room to spin the die with a hand tool?

or am I going at this the complete wrong way?

Any help/tips would be appreciated.

Note: I'm 99% certain that this bolt is an M10 x 1.25 but if you happen to know better please let me know.

Thanks,

Aaron

I’m boosting 12-13 psi on my stock op6 turbo. I replaced my leaking t3 flange gasket with a OEM Nissan gasket but it got my wondering if I should of gone aftermarket gasket instead. I’m talking about the gasket that goes between the exhaust manifold and the turbo compressor housing, the rectangle shaped one.

can the genuine Nissan t3 gaskets take increased pressure levels without giving way?

thanks

nothing but headaches since a radiator was recently replaced, i have what i think is a split hose under the plenum.

Is there any mobile mechanics out there or handy men looking for some cash who can fix it at my place in 3029.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Rgds 

Has anyone rebuilt their power steering pump or at least replaced the pulley because mine has a misalignment and just shreded up my belt

Any help appreciated cheers

My car has had it removed prior to purchase. I’ve since put a new radiator in the car, completed a series of coolant flushes.  At the back end of summer I drive in stop start traffic in high ambient temps, however even with the air con running the temp never exceeded 1/2 on the temp gauge. 

If there’s no signs of overheating, is it ok to run without the AC fan provided you keep a good eye on the temp gauge?

ive got a mishimoto radiator cap that is rated to 1.3 bar. The thing is whenever i replace it with my stock radiator cap( think it’s rated to 0.9 or 1.1 bar) I find a water hose/pipe leaking from somewhere.

so I have to ask if you use a radiator cap that is rated for higher psi , does this mean it builds more water pressure from the water lines and hoses? Or is it just a coincidence that whenever I put the 1.3 bar mishimoto radiator cap on, I eventually get a water line hose cracking open and giving way?

i was going to Nissan spare parts today but they are closed during the holidays. Can I just wrap the water leak on the hose with that stretchy silicon tape for the time being?

thanks

I have recently done a engine swap on my 1997 Nissan Navara Dual Cab Ute 4WD petrol KA24 Engine 

The distributor I had for the old motor doesn't go on the new motor, I am led to believe there is 2 different distributor for the same engine 

the engine I got was from a 2WD Automatic I had to change engine sensor and sump to make it fit as the sump was different but now I can't get the distributor on any one could possibly help 

thanks

My R34 GTT Neo has developed a problem where it has no power steering assist. 

Now I've covered off on all p/s basics first. No hoses leak, fluids replaced. No air bubbles etc. Still no good. 

Former mechanic replaced power steering pump, still no fix. 

We've even replaced the steering rack itself, still no power steering. 

We've isolated the PS pump and confirm that its working as intended and the head unit solenoid on the right hand side of the rack is working as it should also. We're simply just not getting any steering assist. 

Any ideas?? 

I've done some reading on the forum and read that hicas can cause some issues. The vehicle does not have a hicas lock bar. There has been no hicas light on the dash appearing.

Anything I can check for on the hicas end of things that would prevent power steering working as needed?? 

The car has recently had a turbo upgrade (low mount, standard mani with ext wastage fabbed) that was put in by the mechanic prior to the car having these issues. Anything could have been touched in that install that's prompted these problems? 

I've scouted the forum but found nothing thus far and am simply lost. Appreciate any help! 

There is no connector to plug into the intake temp. sensor? Can anyone confirm whether they got rid of the connector on the series 2 models? I thought I just couldn't find it but while I was installing my new NISMO intercooler (which came with a new sensor) there was nowhere for it to plug in to. The connector for the EGT is just tied up out of the way and is easy to find but I could not see anything for the intake temp, even with the intercooler off. 

It's so hard to find information on this topic as it seems everyone has a series 1 GTR