Does anyone have a copy of https://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/manual/pdf/lsdpro_manual02.pdf 

The link is dead on Nismo's site, tried emailing them but no reply.

Cheers

regards

Hey guys just chasing a new clutch for my 400+kw R34 GTT build. Looking to buy a Xtreme Ceramic 230mm Twin Plate Clutch. 

Would you recommend this clutch and what was your experience using it?

I cant make my mind at all on what route im gonna take.

First OS giken = 12 months delivery is way to much for me right now, but the price and quality on OS giken one is the perfect match for me, 

2nd R34 GTR gearbox + swapkit, anyone know if any companies source those? 

3rd  PPG 1-4 close ratio, 3 times as expensive vs OS giken ones? why? with work and stuff this kit is kinda close a OS giken / Quaife Sequential gearbox...

4th the Speedtek close ratio? seen a thread thats 2 years old that dident look so promising, anyone else running this with sucess?

Any owner reviews or one's to avoid would be great, To suit R33 GTST.

Looking for smoother more precise shifting.

Fluid level has not changed , Rubber boot on the slave is reasonably compact which indicates(to me )that the throwout/clutchplate and fork are probably ok.

BUT,,when I check for free play at the clutch fork it seems to be pressure-ised. ..So I can force the slave piston back and release the throwout bearing .

But when i release it , the cylinder pushes the fork straight back against the bearing.

This evening I made an effort to try to identify where it was coming from, and remembered having read about the throw-out/release bearing could cause noise, having done some research my problem might be due to the pilot bearing. The noise goes away completely the clutch pedal is pressed and returns when it's depressed.

A noise example is available below (clear noise at 00:17->), does it sound familiar to anyone? I'm going to replace the clutch and flywheel as the same time as attending to this but was curious if someone would be familiar with the issue and how much work is involved.

My question is that he says that he put in ""MV Automatics stage 2 Shift kit installed"" but his car is already tiptronic, so only the valve body got put in???

I have a 34 sedan auto. I was going to swap it to a manual but I dont mind having an auto daily.

I am going to get a shift kit put in but i need to use the car still, so will be buying a spare gearbox to do it to in the mean time.

My question is, is there any other boxs that have at least 5 gears that will fit the neo 25det? That can take around 300kws? And can be used with the steering wheel controls?

Being a daily and cruise it on the highway just feels it needs an extra gear or two

After any advice as to what is needed to make a 32 diff fit into a 34 gtr. I have removed my stock A-LSD and driveshafts, and have purchased a 32 diff with 32/33 non vspec shafts. I did some reading and read some accounts of spacers being required, new bolts different lengths etc.

anyone with first hand experience able it’s shed some light?

cheers!

so do I just need the standard diff housing? can it be an R32 GTR one ( my car is R33 GTR ), is there any difference? also will the drive shafts and tail shaft bolt staight up to the standard diff?

Nearing the final stages of stripping my R32GTR transmission before blasting and powder coat (then new gearbox).

Mostof the hard work is done, but I’m stuck getting the casing separated from the gears (bell housing is already off).

See pics below - basically the 2 metal pieces which attach to/form part of the shifting mech are stopping me from sliding the gears out in both directions as they’re hitting the housing.

I can’t work out how to remove them so the gears can be removed. Anyone have experience doing this? It looks like there might be pins through them, but not sure if that’s unrelated.

Thanks,

Andrew.

I know this topic has been covered but i would like to hear an updated version of PAR as apparently they're different from years ago.

So I've got a r33 gtr running about 550wkw with a stock gearbox and obviously ive broken the gbox. Ive got a spare gearbox ready to go but im planning on going for 650'ish kw after the gearbox change and putting another stock gearbox is going to be a waste of money and time so im planning on putting a PAR 1-4 synchro set in (1-3 straight cut 4th helical) since they're the best bang for buck and reason for synchro gbox because its a street car with very minimal drag strip use.

Ive been hearing and reading mixed things the PAR gear sets most bad things are based on 10 or so years ago so im assuming they werent best a while ago. just wondering if any people are running their gearsets now and what are they're like in terms of reliability with decent power?

Also, who's the best person to take to for assembly in Melbourne?

Is that the case or is there specific bearings for 93-96 and then 96-98?

Just wanting to get some understanding before I decide in the near future what i would like to do to my transmission to help keep it going healthy. The vehicle is a 98 R34 25GTT NEO and stock even box.

So the general consensus that i've noticed is during cold starts first to second below 3k RPM can feel like its crunching, not severe but noticeable that i've start to double clutching, yes on upshifting not down, its allowed smoother change with no bad crunch or feel. Once the vehicle has warmed up and assuming gearbox oil as well, shifting at that low RPM from first to second is heaps better but barely noticeable. Similar but consistently have fourth to fifth changing gears greater than roughly 3.5k RPM it does crunch and definitely feels like its your first time shifting and crunch the gears type of crunch.

Now i've been going good with it so far and slowly not sure to decide on a rebuild or buy a new box, no decisions has been made im looking for power and that can be another story.

Cheers

Cheers

CHi

has anyone used the midori/do-luck/Tarzan digital g sensors ?

what do you think of them ? Worth while upgrade ? Are they Realy much of an improvement over the stock analoge sensors ?

feedback would be much appreciated before I make a purchase 

ps. What's the difference between the normal street version and race model ?

apologies if this has already been covered previously (i have searched but could not find a definitive answer), how do identify if i have either a series 1 or series 2 RB25DET manual transmission without knowing the donor vehicles VIN?

Thanks in advance

As I'm changing the clutch I figured I might as well get a lightened flywheel and it's current standing between a Competition ultralight flywheel (steel, 5kg) or a Driftworks flywheel (chromoly, 8.5kg). 3.5kg is quite a difference but the materials are also different, which I was curious if anyone could provide additional insight to.

Thanks in advance guys :)