I am getting 8-10 calls a week about fixing language , maps and changing the system.

figured I would pop this together for those of you that are looking at these cars for daily use.

this is a NAVIGATION one.

if you look CLOSELY there are multiple buttons below the screen.

referencing these cars by model WILL NOT mean they are sold automatically with navi. NAVI IS AN OPTION like everything else in the car.

the navi version can be fitted with 1,2 or 3 cameras . commonly there are two.

Bluetooth is standard with navigation system in these cars. HOWEVER if you have a Iphone or any other smart phone with inflexible firmware and want you use it with this system you are going to have a bad day. the firmware is locked to the production date of 2008 or 2009 and the current firmware in today's devices are TOTALLY different to what is in the car.

forget about using USDM units - entirely different. Button swaps are out as well. they are 180 deg out and will not work correctly without a few other changes

cliff notes:

system is a great selling point but TOTALLY useless here and it cannot be modified for local use.

This is a NON navi version.

This car CAN be modifed to have navi and WORKING bluetooth AND as many cameras as you like on it.

the navi is garmin based AND touch screen maps are upgradeable via a USB socket in the car.

Ipod integration IS possible in this car unlike the bose version and the audio system in this car plays PLENTY loud for an OEM system.

this car had full leather and was available as a paddle shift auto OR 6spd manual. (this was a SP btw.)

hopefully this clears up a few things and nets a few less questions overall.

I'm not very knowledgeable with cars, so I thought I'd ask on her for some direction.

I have a V35, 350GT 2004 I have owned since 2010 and it has been great, no real issues whatsoever. However, a few years back the stereo/head unit died (works, but there's no screen) and I was hoping to replace it with an aftermarket system to connect to the bose speakers and perhaps Bluetooth to my phone.

Is this something a normal auto electrician or JB Hi Fi can do? And how much am I looking at here? I've tr

Thanks heaps.

Must be in great condition

Hey guys, 

So i've heard that going custom could be a better option than buying an invidia, or x force exhaust system. I want a loud and aggressive system, and i'm struggling to decide whether to get a custom exhaust made or buy a cat back system. I don't want to be paying a ridiculous price for just a basic muffler delete, which i personally aren't a fan of . Any suggestions? 

I've found a few topics on Sydney service centers but most of the recent ones are for v36 - I'm looking for someone who knows the VQ35 well preferably North of the bridge but can travel if I have to.

I have an '03 V35 Manual which has had a couple of problems I can't seem to find solutions to anywhere:

- The acceleration cuts off intermittently once the engine is warm. I've replaced the knock sensor and the pedal position sensor as well as cleaning other sensors and checking gaskets. 

- The park lights and tail lights are now permanently on unless the battery is disconnected. I've checked all of the fuses/relays and it's not the rubber grommet behind the brake pedal (it's tail lights, not brake lights)

Thanks for any help! I just want to enjoy driving my car again

Hey guys,

I've been using my bluetooth for music in my 2006 Skyline 250GT for months now and I'm finally over the cutting out issues, so I've taken apart my center console and had a look and see why there is no cables coming through the 3 holes used to red/yellow/white cables.

I know absolutely nothing about these sorts of things but as per photos, the 3 plugs were plugged into some box with foam glued around it under the center console (so I couldn't see what it was) I'm hoping it's plugged into the massive (I think 16 pin) connector (refer to photos again)

So my question is - Am I able to find a connector somewhere that turns that 16 pin connection into an aux/something for my iPhone to play music? Or am I going to have to resort going to an auto electrician so they can connect an aux.

Thanks so much for the help in advance.

Cheers,

Rupert. 

Upgrading to a new car so my V36 is for sale.

just got it listed on Facebook atm so this is a link to it

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/298533124430806/

I will get some better photos later and repost

But if you want any more info just ask

Which one would it be and why?

2020 Supra GR 

2020 Q60 Red Sport

Also the radio aerial could it be a problem?

Cheers.

My car was imported in 2017 with 1 key. Found a place who can sell me an OEM programed pretty cheap. Just wondering if anyone in Brisbane can do it?
Nissan (Costly i know but worth a shot) Rejected me because its an import and they cant program to the certain frequency..?

Any help would be awesome.

Boy was I wrong. Getting an SP doesn't mean you get a Bose as part of the package ... that's still optional and in another thread which I won't bother with now as it has already been discussed enough.

Anyway, in the process of taking out the interior of the boot to figure out how to get to the rear speakers as part of the upgrade, I found the corner where I would typically expect to find the Bose rig if I had one. Thankfully, Nissan were thoughtful enough to still weld in a bunch of M6 studs in the boot floor and this gave me an ingenious idea for mounting my gear. Granted, I'm sure someone else has thought of and done the same so I'm not going to claim the holy grail in this but I am setting out to let everyone else know how it's done if they want to do the same. I also have Autocad drawings in a PDF, mainly for myself if I need to ever make another but also for anyone else who would like to make their own base plate.

So, here's what I prototyped using 1.6mm galvanised steel sheet. The bends aren't the greatest since I don't have a proper sheetmetal bender like we did in my high school. Man that thing was great to work with back in the day! Essentially, the base plate uses four of the M6 boot floor studs, accessible via the 16mm holes drilled in the top side of the plate so a 10mm socket can get in. Once it's mounted, then the amp or other device of your choice can be mounted on top of it, if you have more than one device.

I've gone for a stack, because I'm using a JBL MS-8 DSP and a Rockford Fosgate Power 850.4. Naturally, the amp will be sitting on top because it's generating the most heat. I wouldn't recommend using a stack in this corner for mounting two beefy amps together as there's not a lot of space for decent ventilation if going beyond one amp. Above the JBL DSP will be a second plate which mounts on the three 1/4" studs you see on the left and right as well as the pop rivetted strip sitting in the top right corner. I would have preferred to go with bending a strip out of the same plate itself but sadly I was working with sheets of 300 x 600mm. I should have bought myself a nice big chunk of 1200 x 2400 and deal with the excess. Anyway...

I'm using virtually every millimetre available in this corner underneath the OEM plastic shrouds that form the sides around the spare tyre. This is to allow for additional points where I might like to drill a hole or two for mounting cable management to keep everything neat and absolutely safe from harm. You probably can't see that I've bevelled the edges of the metal as well as the corners but that's an extra measure to then affixing the grommet strip around the edges. I take no chances with my installs - they're built to last.

Here you'll see the plate from the bottom with its four mounting feet ... extensions of strips from the side of the plate bent over in a U-shape sideways. I was in the process of gluing the foam sheet as an additional measure to protect the boot floor from direct metal contact. I know the HICAS, GPS and telephone adapter don't have anything under their steel but I don't give a rat's bum what Nissan do there. This is me.

Also, you'll see the 7 bolts that I have MIG welded to the plate. Yes, the last time I MIG welded was back in high school and I'm a little out of practice. After a few practice runs on some scrap, this is what I came up with and it's solid.

There are three 1/4" x 12mm bolts for mounting the upper plate for the amp on top. The four 3/16" x 15mm in the middle are for the JBL MS-8 DSP.

This is the top view. Note the 16mm access holes which are large enough for most 10mm sockets to fit for screwing down the nuts. Here you will see the fourth support strip which I've pop rivetted in to support the upper right corner of the upper amp plate. This will be affixed to the amp plate with a nut and bolt arrangement for relatively easy removal in service situations.

Here you can see the plate mounted in its final position. There's actually one more M6 stud in the boot floor located approximately in the middle of the plate but I elected not to use it. With the thick aluminium base of the JBL DSP, that will make the whole base plate even more rigid.

Getting the washers and nuts on isn't all that easy if you don't have Japanese mechanic's fingers but it is possible and not an exercise in patience and time-consuming hell. Anyway, the plate has been mounted using machine washers and nyloc nuts. This plate isn't going ANYWHERE.

In this photo, you can see the left mounting in a little more detail, with the washers and nyloc nuts. After test mounting the shroud over it earlier, there's only a few mm of gap in there so it's a perfect fit!

And here we are now with the JBL DSP mounted. Unfortunately, JBL put one bolt hole so close to their friggin' power terminal block that it's now impossible for me to rotate any nut of any profile on it!!! Seriously JBL, we're not all happy to use self-tappers and not all of us are necessarily working from the top down! Anyway, I'm going to start looking around for something cylindrical with perhaps a screwdriver slot in the top. This will at least be able to rotate and just fix that corner down. That said though, the other three are fastened using machine washers, spring washers and dome nuts. The dome nuts are preferable in the event we have a wire finding its way loose, which might otherwise abrade on any exposed thread.

Unfortunately, I screwed up the camera angle so it looks like it's actually mounted past the edge of the plate but I assure you it sits flush. Pushing it further to the left wasn't really possible given the location of the bolt in the top left corner. Any further and I would have had a very weak point in the plate for that bolt to carry any load.

The plastic shroud fits over this and only just. No rubbing, no noise, no modification to the shroud necessary. That said, there's a piece on the side which I'm tempted to Swiss cheese because while it's a structural piece to support whatever is in the boot's cargo area, I want the vehicle's vent to allow some kind of airflow in there too.

So that's where we are at so far. More build pics to come as I get more time off work. It's not easy engineering the move of a broadcast operation from one suburb to another.

Next step will be to do the same for the opposite side of the boot, where I need to mount my four crossovers for the Boston Acoustic speakers. The SPZ series, which are already installed in the front doors, have ridiculously huge crossovers compared to the old ProSeries that I'm still planning to use in the rear. Still, same principles will apply although now we're contending with the telephone adapter taking up some space too.

Has anyone got one or seen one?

Or better yet does anyone know where to get one?

Allows you to remotely:

• Lock and unlock Car

• Turn Heating on / off

• Start and stop the engine

• Operate demister

Premium Smart Key

Has the same features as the upgraded smart key but with an LCD screen which also displays status information about the car such as locking, interior temperature and whether the engine is running. Note that these Smart keys are an unusual option to find and are rarely noted on auction sheets.

Got this info from Prestige MotorSport  http://prestigemotorsport.com.au/faqs/nissan-v36-skyline-model-guide/

Once serviced and roadworthied I discovered Frankenstein engine under the bonnet

it has Infiniti Skyline Gt500 engine

but with a difference it has Aus maxima dual plane inlet manifold

Spoke with Ian Gibson USA Nissan Master tech- He has confirmed as engine number ends in A

No Australian Maxima engines ever did

Ian suggests approx 225 to 235 kw at flywheel

Car is quick as in from 4.9 to 5 .7 0 to 100 kph- best power under10 degrees Celsius 

Has anyone else ever heard of or discovered such a rare thing.

I have a 2002 v35 coupe and am experiencing some crazy electrical problems. The VDC and slip lights stay on. The Speedo and rev gauge don't work and sometimes flicker. The AT check light comes on and off and the car is changing gears (auto) roughly. Also the headlights turning on and off randomly. Anyone have similar issues or know whats going on

My 2007 V36 needs a new fuel pump and fuel filter.  My mechanic tells me he can't source this particular item, and would normally direct me to go straight to a Nissan dealer, but says their price for a genuine part is ridiculous.

He recommended I try a fuel injector cleaner just to buy me some extra time while I look for an aftermarket one or one from eBay.

What would be a good aftermarket one to buy (and from where)?

Note - I am selling the car soon.

Thanks!