I spoke with Autotechnica and they said their seat rails will not fit, waiting on a response from Velo.

I don't really care on brand, I want something ADR approved though, I've heard a few whispers about needing ADR approved seat rails, is this a myth or is it true? (specifically for QLD, nothing on TMR website is vague)

Anyone have a combination of seats and rules that is legal / will fit without much f**kery? Cheers! e.g some weird ebay universal seat rail that would fit autotecnica seats

Thought it would be good to start a thread where everyone can post up pictures of their detailing results.

To kick off, here's a 50/50 from the bonnet of an MX5 I restored over the weekend.

Cheers.

i have had my black r33 gtst for about 6 months and it gets swirl marks and scratches really easily. The car has had a respray by the previous owner.

I gave it a full detail a month ago polishing it with some autogylm resin polish then waxing with mothers carnauba paste wax. it came out very nice and i got rid of most the swirl marks and light scratches.

I wash the car weekly, it is garaged and i am extremely careful and clean when washing it.

However the swirl marks are back, it seems as though the paint is soft or something?

So i want to know, is there a paint protection, or anything i can do to the paintwork myself, that will prevent swirlmarks and make the paint last longer?

So my black R32 used to be wrapped and we've peeled off the wrapping to find that every panel has been rubbed back with at least 800 - 1200 wet & dry - I mean there are fine scratches everywhere - and some of the paint is peeling too. (See photo) Honestly it could do with a new paint job but I dont have the dollars just yet. So a mate of mine was saying he would be surprised if the car of that vintage would actually have a clear top coat and we should just cut & polish it and it'll probably come up pretty good.

Can anyone confirm if the original paint on a 1990 R32 would likely have a clear top coats and - If we were to cut & polish would it get through most of the scratches? Is there a particular type of cutting compound to use - What steps should I take? Any advice would be appreciated.

I imported a R34 recently that sat on a Nissan dealership lot for over a year. Because of this, my wheels started to rust and pick up all sorts of weathering on them. I’ve cleaned the wheels and done a vinegar and aluminum foil session on them to try to remove the rust but it seems like there may be an easier way. I thought maybe power washing them would help but I’m not sure if that may damage them. the rims I have are the stock GTTs for reference. Is there any other methods I can use to help remove the rust and gets these things back to normal? The front of the rims is generally ok, a little paint wear here and there and that’s it.

I’ve attached a couple photos. The original condition and the cleaned up version.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks!

thanks

I'm in a 70's apartment complex and I really wish I could hand wash my Skyline.  I currently take it to the $1 wash places.

I do have power but I have no water/tap nearby.  Also, I don't want too much soapy water run off in the common driveway area, I'm sure a little is fine though.

I'd like to know what type of high pressure washer would be best.  I saw at Aldi there are some available that can source water from a bucket via a hose, and also at Bunnings there are these things these Ryobi 20L bladders.

My questions are - how much pressure would I need to give my car a good wash?  These things range from $99 up to $499 and brands Ryobi, Karcher, Gurni, etc.

This Ryobi 1800W 2000PSI for $129 looks good, although it doesn't look like it can use a portable water source.

Questions:

1. I've noticed some have a soap tank and some a separate soap bottle attachment - either of these good or should I just stick with soapy water in a bucket?
2. How quickly do these units use up the water?  I mean, if I had a standard household bucket or the 20L bladder, would that be enough for a good wash or would I need to keep refilling it?
3. What would be the minimum power / PSI I would want for a reasonable clean?
4. Are any of the brands much better / worse than the others?
5. Any recommendations on a mains powered portable water version?

Thanks!!

I haven't cleaned my GTR out for a while and will be doing so this weekend and was wondering what waxing compound would be good to use. I'm not after super expensive stuff just something that will give it a descent shine and will last a few weeks. Any ideas? Something simple to use without mixing with other compounds would be best.

Could you please give some recommendations, where to buy it and the cost?

Cheers,

Alex

Possibly compounded by an ancient muffler, car gets a visible carbon build up on the rear bar after a single drive. I do my best to get as much off as possible in every wash but it's slowly built up pretty bad.

Clay bar is marginal at best, but the soot does come off if I (lightly and carefully) scratch it with my nail.

Can anyone recommend anything that might help get it off easily with some elbow grease?

Would like to avoid anything abrasive as I'm pretty precious about my paint.

Thanks in advance

https://www.autoglym.com/wheel-protector

My results are positive, really positive and you'll see this below. But its expensive and I think I'm using a 3rd to a half of the can with each application.

I applied the protector to my passenger side only about 3 weeks ago.

The first pics are after a week and ~240k's of dry driving. BMW's are notorious for brake dust so its a good car to show a comparison on.

I write a number of articles on my facebook business page on a fairly regular basis and soon on my website  to help motoring enthusiasts improve their car care techniques and overall understanding of it whilst also making them aware of what true professional detailing and paint correction done by a pro can achieve as well as respect the industry and raise the awareness of the fact that there is much more to it and it really is a highly skilled craft.    There is so much more to it regardless of what some people I've met have said to me. Some crash repairers Ive met regard detailing as "takes no skill at all and is all spray and wipe"  The is so far from the truth.   

We have to know some chemistry, understand pad technology and have knowledge of so many things and then be able to use all four types of machines and not damage anything.  

To give you a quick summary of my journey with detailing. I began as an enthusiast in 1991 with the purchase of my first car and really got serious about it in 1996 with my second car purchase, a 1972 Ford XA Falcon 351 Coupe

In 1999 I began learning from a professional and started working for an auto dealership before starting my business in 2005 and setting up shop in the northern suburbs of Adelaide in 2007

It's been a twenty seven year journey so far but I've done cars from Aston Martin to Pagani Zonda and a lot of stuff in between including Lexus and plenty of Nissan Skylines too. 

I'm here not to try and sell you anything but to share some helpful information as well as learn from all of you, we can all learn from each other for sure.
Everyone brings something to the table.  

My next one will be wax, sealants and coatings. Which ones to use on what vehicles, when and how often.  

That's me kneeling by the window in the Lexus of Adelaide Showroom back when the first LFA arrived.

My articles can be found here.  There are so many more to write and plenty more to share.  

https://www.facebook.com/pg/detailxsa/notes/?ref=page_internal

If anyone is in Adelaide and has a midnight purple Skyline with paint in good condition I'd love to see it and give you some free advice on how to care for it

I absolutely love the Nissan Skyline colours from the R32-R34 - amazing.

happy detailing everyone

Matt

Keen to hear what cleaner/degreaser people have found worked best to clean the undercarriage.

Surely has to be some better products than just straight degreaser you can buy from like super cheap etc.

Will be using a pressure washer as well.

Thanks

I've always detailed my own cars forever and have done a couple of detailing courses with SAU & alot of online research over the years. After the 1st course i ran out and bought a neat little random orbital polisher (Mint DAS6) which is a great little unit for the money and has never missed a beat 😊

But after playing around with some serious gear my mate (That Detailing Guy) had i realised how much of a toy my lil DAS6 was! 

So a few months ago i splashed out on some nice new toys and have had some fun in the shed with some friends and family cars. 

So thought id share some pics of my new toys and the results I've got with them 😊

Just a quick question as ive already stuffed it up once and had to sand back again can someone give me a heads up on types of paint and steps to paint my intercooler piping thanks in advance everyone.

Hey guys

Decided to dip my car again. Last time I put black dip and a 3k topcoat on it, to sand and polish it later. Ive tried once and started with the roof. After 2 hours I felt fed up with that shit and was calculating how much stuff I got left over from all the dipcrap I did already, so I threw some kind of red copper whatever thing on ^^

Lemme know what you are thinking

I have these stains on my seats that I can't get out on my R34. what do you guys use for cleaning on seats? 

And also, how can I get these scratches off the radio surround plastic panels? I looks kinda deep like it was scratched with a screw driver from previous owners.

Hi there has any body tried to fit a bnr34 boots console into a gtt and what all needs to be changed to get it in. I have seen that there are not the same length and does the handbrake needs to be moved or swapped as well.

Cheers.

This is how the car appeared before Eugene got to it on a Sat morning.

After:- By Sun afternoon after being picked up from Hornsby Station, my car looked like this...

History:- Eugene has had many wraps before with cars that he's detailed in HPI, Zoom and PG magazines; but personally, he did wonders with a car that was Grade 3.5 > Best Concours at the R34 GT-R 10th Anniversay and Daily Telegraph Cover Story.

Before:- Eugene knew he had a job and a half, to do with this...

After:- And it ended up like this...

Eugene is available to anyone in the Sydney area on 0421141538 but it's best to book well ahead.

Thanks Eug.

Hi guys,can anyone give me any ideas on how to mount my number plate on my front bar towards the side, with minimal damage to the bar, see the pic below as an example of another skyline.

Regards.

Discovered my head gaskest was the wrong one (person who built the motor had no idea and it even had no washers on the head bolts!!) So off came the head.

We did it in a dusty shed with bad lighting and poor weather so its not the best but if you look at it back from 5m it looks mint!![emoji1]

After a bit of a degrease and a clean up we sanded it with a 800 grit and primed it

Might as well do my rocker and cam covers while im at it.

Needs a touch up coz it went all blotchy on us due to the humidity

Heres where we're at at the moment

Ill put a finish up when its all back together this weekend

Here's the thread in question :
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/27533-black-1990-skyline-gtr-get-showcar-detailing.html