wondering exactly what I'll need and how much i can expect to fork out for this job

cheers

Just before I list everything that I have done so far (not finished yet), I'd like to say that I've only been doing my own work on cars for the past 3 months and am not very technically knowledgeable on the field. I have however been given a vast amount of advice from real tuners and mechanics who actually do the conversions. If i have done something incorrectly please tell me so that I can change it.

These are the parts that I had to use:

Parts (R33 GTS-T IMPUL used as a donor car):

• R33/R34 turbo manifold gaskets ($55)
• R33 RB25DET turbo manifold
• R33 RB25DET elbow compressor
• R33 RB25DET S1 turbo with
• R33 RB25DET dump pipe
• 30CM extension to make the dump pipe meet with the cat which can be substituted by having a long decat pipe created by any exhaust place if you want a louder system(Instead of this, I just used the entire exhaust system from my 33 IMPUL sedan)
• R34 GTT injectors on an R34 rail
• R34 RB25DE NEO intake manifold (Re-used manifold gasket)
• 255LP Walbro fuel pump (Why not use this chance to start fresh and upgrade a cheap part)
• Fuel filter replaced
• R33 RB25DET S1 AFM (had to re-wire this which is easily done as you just have to merge two ground wires)
• R34 GTT AUTO ECU (You CANNOT use a NON-R34 ECU on an R34 as the LOOM has a different ECU plug. Some people on the internet will just tell you to use an R33 ECU like they did tome which is completely wrong so be careful. Also if you have an AUTO you wont be able to piggy back off of the N/A ECU so you will have to purchase an AUTO TURBO ecu and hopefully put a nistune on it. The person who sold me the nistune pulled some ignition timing off to compensate for the high comp engine in order to safely get the car to a tuner or be drivable. If you do use a manual ECU your auto system will be f**ked. If you use a standalone ECU your auto system will be f**ked. All of this information was given to me by the person who programs the nistune units and a few tuners have also advised me of these issues)
• Currently I do not have a BOV being used. The R34 N/A intake manifold is much longer then the turbo ones which does not allow me to use an R33 cross-over pipe. I do have theR34 and R33 turbo manifolds in my garage but want to see if the y-intake will work without a BOV. If there are issues, I will install an aftermarket BOV somewhere along the piping.
• R33 RB25DET S1 Inter cooler (I am using all of the stock inter cooler piping for now except for fabricating another piece of pipe in order to compensate for the short cross-over pipe)
• R33 RB25DET S1 O2 sensor (I had to also re-wire this as it was attached to the dump pipe before installed. If you can take it off and put the R34 one on that would be the best option but this was not possible for me as I had already put everything back together and I don't want to break my hands taking it off)

OIL FEED:

• What I did for this line was tee into the stock oil sensor right next to the standard oil filter location. A brass "T" piece placed between OIL sensor (right next to oil filter) which runs a braided hose line via the T piece to the top of the turbo.

OIL RETURN:

• The NEO block does not have the standard return plug so around 30CM to the left of where the standard oil return plug should be, there is a hole blocked by a plug (similar to sump plug). What I have done is run a high pressure and heat resistant 300PSI hose from a replacement bolt which attaches to the hose and is clamped down, the stock metal piece (also clamped). I did have to use an angle grinder to shorten the piece which fits under the turbo in order to avoid too many bent lines.

WATER FEED + RETURN:

• Both of these lines were used in conjunction with the heater hoses which are near the firewall above the O2 sensor (The hoses are a decent size and will most likely be covered by a silver heat protector). I put a plastic heat resistant "T" piece in between where I cut both hoses and am running two corner pieces which bolt on to the sides of the turbo.

My shitty tips:

• Be ready to improvise
• Every conversion has been different and don't be afraid to get creative
• If you are doing the conversion and expect to be done in a few days please don't do it. Expect the worst (unless you are knowledgeable on engines and/or have done this before)                
• I went into the conversion assuming my car to be not drivable for a few weeks so I put it in the garage with decent lighting
• Take your bonnet and front bar off as soon as you start
• Try and keep the car in a garage with good lighting as this helps SO MUCH YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND I WAS USING MY PHONE'S FLASHLIGHT FOR THE FIRST FEW DAYS f**k THAT SHIT
• Be prepared to get around 50 cuts per hand and literally shed blood, sweat and tears (if it doesn't start)
• Keep track of every bolt, nut, screw, hose, nipple, ground (EXTREMELY IMPORTANT) and have the work shop manual printed if you can which is extremely helpful
• The intake and turbo manifold bolts are recommended to be torqued to spec (which I did but they still felt quite loose to me so I decided to tighten them further. You shouldn't get snapping studs unless you tighten/loosen at an angle due to R34s being a bit younger but be prepared for this to happen as it is common and fixable)
• The reason for the conversion is to get some hands-on experience with an engine. I did have an RB25DET I could have engine swapped but where's the fun in that. Also the higher comp engines apparently hit boost extremely early on in the RPM range which I wanted to experience for myself
• The whole process would be 150X easier with the engine out of the car (not that hard of a process)
• For the turbo lines, take your hard lines and possibly the turbo to a specialized auto shop. For example, I took mine to Adelaide's OG speed shop and they were able to sort out some lines for me. They were not right the first time around (due to a misunderstanding on my end) so I did have to improvise with the water lines as straight bolts do not fit on the sides of the turbo and corner bolt on pieces are much easier. It's hard to explain the whole turbo line setup so the auto shops will be able to help. In my opinion the turbo lines are the only "hard" part of the conversion and getting the right configuration for these lines was definitely the hardest step for me.

how about creating one of those results register threads, just like in the turbo section.

if everyone can list their results, wat engine, modifications and maybe dyno graph.

i think itd be good to look for ideas to do to our na engines. i plan on puting a rb25de in my r31, and i want to know power people are getting

i might as well start, but its nothign special

rb30e, extractors, rear muff gone, auto. 85rwkw. almost too much power

*Good Idea, sorry to edit your thread*

Eveyone Please put results only No chit chats- Please edit your comments like one below

eg.

Model - R34 R33 R32 R31 R30...etc

Engine - RB20DE RB25DE RB26DE...etc

Modifications - Intake system Extractors...etc

Dyno tune results...etc @ what RPM...etc

MISC -other infomaitons

Thank you all

Glue

Any ideas welcome

Cheers Krys

Lately I've been seeing more people looking at doing the DE+t conversions, and more that have done so successfully with quite impressive results.

The way things are going I expect there'll be more DE+t's in the future with power restrictions and all.

The power results of forced induction on a DET engine aren't exactly comparable to a DE+t. High compression amongst other things make for different torque/power gains.

So I've decided that in addition to the N/A Power Results thread, to have a DE+t Power Results thread for those with N/A Skylines who travelled the path less taken.

This should also help give a comparison to those who are deciding between all out N/A performance, or doing the +t Turbo Conversion, and as such I have added a cost component to the layout.

Please try to keep layout to the following example:

Model - R34 25GT

Engine - RB25DE

Modifications / Parts Used - R33 S2 Turbo, Factory Manifold, R34 GTT Injectors, HKS Super Dragger Catback, etc...

Engine Management Used - eManage Blue with optional Injector and Ignition Harnesses

Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98

Boost Used - 7 PSI

Dyno Tune Results - KW/HP @ RPM

Misc- Other Details, perhaps reason for using certain parts, or other things to elaborate.

Costs - Parts: $xxxx.xx Labour: $xxxx.xx Tuning: $XXX.XX

Dyno Graph

A dyno graph will help give a visual of the power curve that a DE+t engine has; and also not all dyno's are the same, so it will help give a comparison amongst Dyno's used.

Please keep chit chat to a minimum, there is already a "How to turbo your N/A Skyline" thread that 666DAN started right here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...N-A-t33407.html

Please only results from turbocharging a Naturally Aspirated skyline engine. Posting results of a DET engine transplant in an N/A shell defeats the purpose of the thread

Cheers

Nathan

Hey all, Need a bit of help. 

Been having this issue for a while, It starts having idle issues when the car is warm, usually after about 15-20 minutes, I have got videos of what it sounds like when cold idle and when the issue starts to happen. As well as NDSI logs of as the car heats up and the when the issue happens. It was at protek automotive for about a month and they didnt find anything. 

I replaced the coil packs with new ones it kept happening, then i replaced the spark plugs with new BCPR6E-1, then also resoldered the AFM solder joints. 

Any insight would be more than welcome. 

What the exhaust sounds like cold. 

Issue as it starts to happen and get warm.

Issue as it gets worse.

What it sounds like from the drive side fender. 

I really hope someone can find what the issue is, I'm getting pretty sick of this not working.

Thank you all so very much. 

NDSI20170420_162105.log

So just to settle the argument that i know some one will start....yes 20E in a 4x4.....because we can. and there cheep!!

Hey all, run into a small issue with my 20E conersion.

Did not think it would be very hard but have no idea were to start tbh.

I have got the motor all mounted.

bolted up to the 4x4 gearbox.

Starter on, alternator on.

running off the factory D21 petrol loom.

The issue i have is no idea were to start at all with wiring up the 20E Ecu.

Hoping some one could give me a take wire from here to this pinout number.

have got motor cranking over easily and getting fuel.

I am not worried about the dash tacho at all. nor the engine light or oil light.

This is all going to be run off external pod guages.

so just need to get her running, cheers in advance and much appreciated.

have attatched 20E loom diagram, pinout and truck photos for those interested!

20E pinout

20E engine diagram

20E mounted Snug As A Bug

Thanks in advance!

First thing…get yourself an N/A Skyline, if you’re reading this then you too have made this fatal mistake

The second thing you should do is get yourself some sort of engine management…one that can adjust airflow maps and injection maps…to a lesser extent timing.

I used the GReddy e-manage as my car is auto and I didn’t have a choice in the matter, even if it had been manual I still think I would have got it, due to the ease of installation and programming.

Other options available are getting the factory ECU…but I’m not sure if it would work as it would not have all the signals coming in that the stock turbo engine would put out.

Next step get the essential engine parts…you WILL need the following.

Turbo (of course) preferably with water an oil lines

Exhaust manifold

Dump-pipe & Front pipe

Fuel Pump (GTS-t one or better, plenty of high-flowing cheap ones out there, walbro etc)

Injectors (stock GTS-t ones or better)

Intercooler and piping (stock or custom)

Alloy cross-pipe with BOV (once again custom jobby will suffice)

All of the above can be the factory items or replacement parts for the turbo model, not a bad idea in the case of the intercooler…as with your 10:1 compression keeping things from going boom is a good idea

I used a series 1 R33 turbo, ceramic exhaust wheel jobby…you don’t really need anything more substantial as you can’t go too far past 7psi and the ceramic turbo should last indefinitely at this boost.

Almost all of these items went straight into my R34 with only the exhaust requiring an extra section welded in to make it fit.

The oil & water lines were modified and extended with stainless steel braided hose. The water supply was taken from the heater lines…the oil feed had to be taken from near the filter and the return is via a tap into the block..

Standard, the waste gate on the turbo will open at around 5psi..to get 7psi you’ll require either a bleed valve…or the factory solenoid powered by a constant 12v and put inline with the actuator hose on the turbo.

So now you’ve got everything bolted to your engine you need to get a complete dyno tune, where your ignition will most likely be retarded by about 5 degrees just to keep things safe. Once completed you now got a very different car from when you began…it’s actually got some decent power

Of course none of this would have been possible without Robin at *perFOURmance Motorsports*

The final tune on my car is Thursday, so I’ll have dyno charts and pictures available on Friday.

Anyone wanting specifics PM for more details.

So let’s see who’s next!

Dan

For a swap.

Cheers

 )

I’ve been hunting for ages trying to find an exhaust but I have had no luck.. 

Does anyone know if I could bolt up a rb25de (aftermarket) catback to my rb20e and all fit up? 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I bought my 2001 R34 GT about 3 months ago, and a month ago the radiator dumped coolant and the engine overheated and warped (didn't change temp gauge at all), and the car shut off completely and smoke billowed from engine. All sorted now with new engine in and everything seemed to be running fine. Took it on a long run 2 days ago and no issues at all, and everything seemed perfect minus the need for a tune. Last night I took it for a run on the freeway and I noticed that the tacho was pretty erratic jumping  about +-700rpm and a loss of power so I pulled over and the car shut off before I stopped and lost power steering similar to when the engine went. I managed to get a tow home and today I checked the plugs (all new from swap), and coilpacks for any damage (not sure if these are stock or not as they are blue, possibly Spitfires?) and didn't find anything. On idle the car is super rough misfiring and jumping around revs, when revving the car evens out at about 3000+, but backfires on decel and idle, even a little around 3000+. I tightened all clamps behind AFM (replaced old one with one from wreckers due to swap) and plan to swap back to the old one tomorrow and check if that fixes anything and also clean out the O2 sensor. Could the issue be a faulty injector possibly? 

Would connecting a scanner to the car produce any possible fault codes? Or would it just read no issue? 

The only thing I can think of in between it being perfect and the issue arising is that the car was washed but I doubt much water found it's way under the bonnet and the car ran fine for an hour or so afterwards. 

Thanks guys any help would be greatly appreciated.

the following pictures are of sean and me test fitting the v8. we are currently ( by we i mean sean) trying to complete the custom bell housing to suit the 300zx manual gearbox i bought for it.

finding a lack of information regarding this topic and unsure about how it differentiates from rb25dets

am I able to delete the pcv completely, my RB has been running for 3 years with the pipe going to it blocked off, so if I was to have the part of the rocker cover welded up  and use a vented catch can, would that allow enough ventilation for the engine?

In the past 3/4 of drifting with this rb, with the cam breathers having some piping to atmosphere there has never seemed to be any oil from them. RB25 cam breathers look awful in my opinion where they are placed, and I was hoping to move the breathers to the back sloping part of the cam covers, if that makes sense. And run to the vented/baffled catch can. How intensive of work would be involved regarding baffles in the cam covers to stop oil just flowing out?

Could a set of baffle covers on top of each part of camshafts help to prevent it, as well and foam in front of the breather ports. Circled where I hoped to place new breather port

I don’t know if this can be done I’m just wondering. Obviously if I do go ahead it will mean regularly checking catch can to make sure in excess of oil bes collected 

Anyone done this? ^

Im a slap it in me vl and was wondering if anyone has used the rb30 auto box on an rb25neo to avoid complications with speedo , tail shaft and diff.

I read the manual flywheels are different sizes and change the starter location slightly to suite.. is it true and is it the same with the autos?

I do have the 25de auto box still on it!

Just pondering if its gonna be better bang for buck as i have the rb 30 auto too but not the apropriate diff nor tail shaft and speedo drives for the 25box in the vl.

I have the mounts and and both standard tail shafts to get one built when i can afford to if needed.

Maybe some 31 players will chime in..

.....

whats factory redline for each?

I have a RB20DE Neo Laurel

And I'm looking for a rubber like seal that goes around the throttle body and inside the intake pipe. Does anyone one know the name of this or how I can find a new one?

My one has had it.

thank you 

So I am currently working on my new project which is an auto r33 gts with a yucky rb20e inside of it. I was looking at a couple of options to do an engine swap. I have a choice to go with an rb25de or an rb20de (as am currently still on p plates in QLD) If i am to go with the rb20de option i would like to look at going turbo in the near future as it will still remain p plate legal. I would like to know what is required to swap for both engines and would like to know your personal thoughts on what I should do.

all help is much appreciated thank you!!!

I'm just curious as to what extractors are best for my rb25de neo, power gains, responsiveness, and sound.

It would be nice if you could post a picture yourself so I can see exactly I have to put this bastard

So I am currently on my P plates in QLD and am driving an R33 Rb20de. I would like to know if it is possible to convert from NA to turbo whilst still remaining P plate legal and if so how to go about doing it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

thx

Is there anything wrong with building an n/a rb25 neo?

There is no abs working and no tcs and the ecu tells me there are no errors.

But the car doesnt shut down throttle even if it slips what could it be?