I've Just recently did a manual conversion on my 1998 r34 sedan gt-t and it was a success. It took me a while to research on all the parts needed but the end result was excellent.

Now obviously if i used all r34 gtt manual parts in my car, it would most likely fit without knowing that you dont need to HACK up stuff, but i had a r33 gearbox. With not many people knowing what is EXACTLY done when using a r33 gb, i have taken this opportunity to basically document everything ive done.(not much write up of swapping the gearbox over, but the pics will surely help ).

First off here is a list of all the parts needed, including pics.

-r33 manual gearbox(mine came from a series 2, no difference to series 1, just newer)

PRICE: $1100-$1800

Make sure its a complete gearbox. Just so you dont need to hunt around for bits and peices

-r33 or r34 manual tailshaft(front part of the tailshaft)

PRICE: $100 from forum

This part was my biggest concern. I just bought a r33 manaual tailshaft and i was told that i needed to modify it to fit an r34(wheelbase length of r34 is shorter) After many sleepless nights thinking what should i do..Should i modify my r34 auto tailshaft to fit the r33 yoke on?( that means the car will have to be off the road for a while so it can be measured up) Or should i modify the r33 manual tailshaft to suit the length of an r34( car will be also off the road to get the exact cut up measurement. So nearing the day of my conversion i decided to go to JustJap. Asked if they had a r34 manual tailshaft, luck hit me and they did. So i purchased it, went home and put the two manual tailshafts side by side. Now i found out that the front part of the r33 and r34 tailshaft is EXACTLY the same length!. That was good news so off back to JustJap to get my refund.

After hearing people and workshops saying i need to MODIFY/HACK the tailshaft to suit, i now can conclude that front part of r33 tailshaft WILL fit in a r34. NO MODS, JUST A SWAP OVER.

(comparing (starting from the top) manual r34, r33 and auto r34 tailshaft)

(the rear part of the r33 tailshaft is longer than the r34)

(yokes are the same for the manual r34 and r33, the auto tailshaft is smaller)

(comparing length of r33/r34 manual and r34 auto tailshaft)

( Auto and manual front part of the tailshaft are interchangable)

-clutch kit for a r33

PRICE:$450 on Forum

This is a 5 puk button exedy clutch with Daikin Pressure plate recently purchased from C&B. Rated at 300kw

(the bearing that is supplied with the clutch kit)

-RB manual flywheel with 6 bolts (All RB manual flywheels should fit, in my case, i got a r34 one)

PRICE: $125 from forum

Here is the flywheel when i got it

And here it is when it got machined

bolts

-manual spigot bush

PRICE: $20 From NISSAN

I used an 1996 r33 gtst manual Vin number to get the spigot bush, but all spigot bush should be the same for RBs, well i know the RB25DET's are the same.

-clutch Master cyclinder( r33 gtst or r34 gtt will do)

PRICE: $70 second Hand in mint condition from import wrecker

-slave cyclinder with 2 bolts to bolt on to the gearbox(from r33 gtst)

PRICE: $100 from NISSAN for the salve cyclinder itself

-clutch MC to Slave Cyc lines

PRICE: $95 from online trader (Maltech)

(braided lines)

- Pedal assembly

PRICE: $70 for clutch pedal assembly and a trade, manual r33 brake pedal for my auto brake pedal assembly. From a import wrecker.

I used an r33 gtst clutch and brake pedal assembly. If you can grab an r34 clutch and brake pedal assembly, it be better.

-4lts of Gear oil ( i used Motul Gear 300)

PRICE: $29 for 1lt at Autobarn

RB25DET boxes take up around 3.8l to 4l

-brake/Clutch fluid ( i used Castrol response)

@admin Please delete/move if incorrect location or not helpful.

I am in the middle of getting all the bits and pieces I have removed from the engine while replacing the head gasket on my WCNC34 Stagea ready for re-assembly.

I was looking for some way to secure small objects such as nuts and bolts etc after degreasing them to hold them safe while I pressure wash all the gunk off, found some plastic mesh type baskets in the  shed and came up with this idea. 

Also keeps them upright for drying / spraying with oil later to prevent rust

It's not fancy, but it's cheap!

I havent done this yet so i cant confirm it works when i have finished it i will post pics but that might not be for a while because i want to take the dash out when i do it to run the wires for my MFD aswell but cant afford to be without my car for now.

I worked it out using the service manuals.

It involves pulling every wire pin out of its connector and rearanging them, also making some wires shorter and some longer.

I wrote the instructions refering to my R34 GT-4 which does not have HICAS which is why the HICAS ROW is coloured blue.

The connector pin numbers are in the doccument, an example of what to do is (Drivers door switch signal) PIN # 2, move to PIN # 52, on the third connector, therefore the wire will have to be made longer.

IMPORTANT: I wrote the columb on wether the wires have to be made longer or shorter based on the fact that i guessed that the wires would come from the left, i havent pulled my guages out yet so therefore do not know if this is right... obviously if the wires come from the right just do the opposite.

I would suggest labling every wire before you start removing them because you dont want to stuff something up.

Im going to buy a DYMO lable maker and put the move to # on every one the pull them all out then put them back where there meant to be. Just a suggestion.

Can someone please tell me why i cant upload EXCEL doccuments, should i be able to, and then i will post the instructions up.

FAQ: Apexi PowerFC - Frequently Asked Questions

Intended Audience: Anyone considering an aftermarket ECU

Technical Level: High

Duration: 1 hour

Effort: High

Result: Excellent

!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!

Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. We are not responsible for any actions you take. The information contained herein is a guide and should *not* be acted upon with consultation from your local tuner (he/she may not agree with my comments / suggestions). If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it.

This guide is a document in progress among the Skylines Australia car club and is a User orinentated FAQ for the Apexi PowerFC stand alone ECU. This guide should be used if you have questions regarding the Apexi PowerFC and it's functions

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This thread is NOT the PowerFC FAQ but a tracking document for changes and other questions - This is NOT THE FAQ ITSELF

Before posting in this thread please do the following;

1. View the PowerFC FAQ here: a the bottom

2. If what you are looking for isnt covered in the FAQ, search inside the FAQ using your web browser search or find command

3. If what you are looking for isnt covered in the FAQ, search again inside the FAQ using your web browser search or find command

4. If what you are looking for isnt covered in the FAQ, search again and again inside the FAQ using alternate keywords and names using your web browser search or find command

5. Try a google search on what you are looking for

6. Review the posts in this thread to see if its not covered already

7. You may post in here if you think the question hasn't been answered already but we aren't obligated to answer

powerfc-faq.pdf

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=window*

My drivers side power window has been playing up for ages and I have been trying to find the root of the problem. It would work most times, then all of a sudden just stop working. If I bashed the door handle and switch surround a couple of times it would sometimes start working again, but also sometimes not. Then it would work again for no apparent reason.

First I thought it was the switch mechanism, so I pulled it apart a couple of times and checked everything, and re-soldered anything that looked dodgy but it never fixed the problem.

I found the culprit to be the relay/switch (mentioned in the thread above)for the auto power window. If I moved the plug connected to the relay around a bit it would start working again. Interestingly though, there was always a ticking coming from the box when you used the window switch, whether it was working or not.

I didn't really have time to look at it properly when I first discovered it, so I cable tied the plug in a position where there was obviously a decent enough contact to get the windows working, and left it at that.

That fix was all working fine for a few months, but the other day I got stuck with the window down and it wasn't going up for love or money, so I was forced to take action.

I have taken some pics that may help others (the quality is crap)...this was the procedure:

Remove door trim -

- FIRST! remove the plastic cap in the armrest well and undo the screw located underneath, that is if it hasn't already been destroyed by some other monkey, in which case there will be a gaping hole where the plastic mount point used to be, so skip this step. Mine came broken

- Then, remove the plastic surround containing the window controls - there is a plastic clip underneath the centre of the surround holding it down so just lift from the outer edges in the middle until it pops out.

- Next, remove the surround from the door lever/lock mechanism as outlined in the pic

- Then, remove the three screws at the bottom of the trim as indicated in the pic and pop the push clips out on either side of the door. Then remove the door trim by lifting out and up from the bottom.

Locate and remove relay -

- Locate the relay to the right of the handle. Remove the plug and two screws holding it in place

Dis-assemble and repair relay -

- Lever the end off the relay with a small screwdriver or other weapon of choice. Pic shows lever points note the care and patience taken

- The relay PCB is just sitting in there on some plastic runners and slides out easily. Remove and check all the soldier joints on the back for anything suspect looking. Mine was pretty obvoius as shown in the pic below

- Re-solder anything that looks dodgy. BEFORE you put it all back together, plug it back in to the loom, connect your window switches and make sure it works. If so, re-assemble the relay and put everything back on in reverse. If it's still not working set the car on fire and call the insurance Co.

Time for an update!

you need a sheet of smooth (automotive) leather, some Needles and waxed Thread. I get this from Aliexpress for less than 3$.

First pull out the Metal Ring a little bit then cut the stitches

And , surprise,  the original isn`t genuine Leather!

Took the original as a pattern for the new .

Attention !!!! It isn`t a square.

To get a perfect fit , cut 2mm narrower.

Now do the punctures

3mm from the edge and 5mm wide

You start like this. The thread has to be 4-5 times longer than the leather!!!

To make it easier use a tube, keep attention that the cross of the tread , up and down, are all in the same way

Now you can place the Leather to the Lever

and then pull the seam tight do this with a crochet hook

You can`t do this at once. Make 2-3 repeats!

Keep an eye that the alignment is correct and the holes are at the same level.

At the End .....the tricky Part.

You have to put the Leather under the rabbet and fix it with the metal ring.

The Leather has to be long enough but then it has a lot of wrinkles, is it to short it won`t be fixed

Tricky.

But in the End  I´m very satisfied.

A lot better than the old imitation Leather.

I hope this is helpful for some!

I know this has been done before, but i am doing this again with a video to make it a bit easier for people to visualise what needs to be done!

I have attached a video below of the process of installing the fog lights into your S15 weather they are factory or aftermarket the process is similar. This is a LOT easier and quicker if you have an imported S15 from japan, if you have an ADM (and possible NZD) s15, this process might be a bit longer for you, but will explain your extras in the write up and briefly in the video. Come along for the install!

Written Tut!

Ok so for those of you who would like some more info, or prefer a read up, here is is in a step by step fashion  please drop any questions below!

Step 1: You will need the following:

- An S15

- A set of factory or aftermarket fog lights

- You may also need some 6mm thread nuts and bolts and some washers from memory to mount the lights into the bumper

- FOR IMPORTED SILVIA: - You may need an indicator stalk with the fog light switch, else you can follow the ADM/NZ optional Extras to get yours working. (if you are missing the stalk and want one, please PM me on YouTube as i am more likely to see it sooner, or you can PM me here and i will try get back to you as soon as i can with info on how to get one, or if i can source you one)

- FOR ADM/NZ MODELS ONLY:

    - You will need a inline Fuse

    - Some wire (12 - 14 gauge)

    - A Switch which Turns you on.. ehem i mean, can be used to Turn on your Fog Lights (Honestly any switch which you would like to use will do, just keep in mind you need to mount this somewhere you can access it)

Step 2 (optional): You may want to remove your front bumper for ease of access, or maybe not, i did, good luck should you choose not to

Step 2.5: If you are trying to remove your bumper, i have circled the screw location in the video:

- There are some near the wheel well closer to the wheel

- One inside the bumper up near the light on each side

-The ones at the front in between the lights

- You may also have some at the bottom if you have a lip, or not

Step 3: If your bumper has any mesh or covers where the fog lights go, you will need to remove them at this point. The ones from the non - Aero bar must be unscrewed from the inside, and then slid out from the inside. I assume those on the Aero Bumper are the same (if someone can confirm i will update Thanks)

Step 4: Before we mount everything in place, we will test the lights to make sure they work!

- If you have an imported SILVIA and are using the factory fog lights, please plug them both into the plugs which you can find around where they will sit on the bumper. If you cannot find the plugs, it is likely you have an ADM or NZ model of the S15, and you will need to do some additional work

- If you are using aftermarket fog lights and you have a SILVIA with the plugs, you will need to create an adapter by buying the plug from a wrecker, or online if you can find them, or by using some spade connectors (probably the easiest option as i believe they will fit)

- If you are using factory/aftermarket fog lights and you have an ADM/NZ model S15 without the plugs you will need to run wiring to the cabin yourself.

Step 4.5(For ADM/NZ Models ONLY): You will need to make your own wiring for this, i am not 100% sure if your s15 comes with the relay or fuse, but no matter, we can do this without any factory wiring, follow the next few steps

- You will need to create a plug which goes into your Fog Lights, weather they are factory or aftermarket, you should have 2 wires coming off each at this point. (i would use spade connectors as above but up to you)

- You need to choose where you want to draw the power from at this point, You can grab it directly from the battery if you want, probably the easiest way, otherwise you will need to find a fuse you can tap into, i would use the battery but this is up to you. Find your power source. 

- Wire in your in-line Fuse, i recommend 30 amps, if you believe you know better please do as you like (we don't like fires here...)

- Run your wire into the cabin if you are getting power from outside, there is a grommet under the driver side fender which does into driver foot well, run the positive cable into here and then wire in your switch and mount it somewhere accessible to you!

- Run the negative off the switch back through the grommet and outside the cabin, into the bay, then rout it down to roughly where your fog lights will be

- You will need to split your power source cable and make sure to leave some slack for each connector as you should plug them in before mounting the bumper back

- Terminate the wire into either the proper connector or spade connectors (pick your poison) and then join both neg cables back together to make your life easy, and rout the neg to a bolt which connects straight to the chassy to ground the connection.

Step 4.6(For SILVIA Import Model From Japan):

- If you have an Indicator Stalk with the fog light switch, you do not need to follow the next part of this step

- If you do not have the fog light switch on your stalk, you can either buy one and fit it, or follow step 4.5 to install the lights as you would in the ADM/NZ model, or you can do some research to find out where you can tap into the factory wiring in the cabin and just wire the switch in there (i did not go through this so cannot offer much assistance, but if you do go through this, please comment and let us know how you did it, would love to add the info to the Tutorial  )

Step 5: Test your lights to see if they Turn on

Step 6: If Step 5 was Successful go to step 7, if the lights did not come on, please make sure to check your wiring, or try reversing the polarity as you might have plugged positive into negative on the fog light. If this does not fix your issue, you need to make sure your wire is plugged in and perhaps try using a multi meter to test for power and ground. If you are using factory wiring make sure the fuse and relay are installed in the fuse and relay box

Step 7: Unplug your lights and mount them into the bumper (factory will go straight in, just need the mentioned bolts from above) If you have aftermarket lights, you might need to make your own bracket. 

Step 8: Mount your bumper back onto the car and plug the lights in at the same time

Step 9: Clean and final test!

Step 10: Profit? Please post some pics below of how yours turned out and what you did. Keen to see outcomes.

Please feel free to let me know if there is anything i missed as i would like to make this the most accurate and up to date tut there is. 

Thanks and good luck!

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423348-kingpintrunion-bearing-replacement-hcr32/?hl=%2Bkingpin+%2Bbearing#entry6829945

my main concerns were what would be needed to separate the upper and lower halves of the upright after undoing the kingpin nut - and in my case it was nothing, they literally pulled apart once the nut was removed, the lower half falling away just from the weight of the control arm etc - and how to press the bearings out and back in.

I already have a 10-tonne press ($187 delivered off ebay son, well worth it, have used it for heaps that I would have otherwise had to pay a workshop to do) so this wasn't a big deal, the bearings are pressed in but not that tight, they came out and went in easily.

For the top bearing, I cut a piece of pipe about 25mm long that matched the diameter of the upright; a big enough diameter to clear the bearing and run around the face of the upright. This is so when you invert the arm and press the bearing out, the arm is supported and it leaves room for the bearing to just push out inside the 25mm pipe. I used as big a socket that would fit through the opening of the larger lower bearing (think it was 20mm?) with a small extension bar on the socket for the press to push onto. That bearing came out in one piece, no drama.

I then turned the arm the other way round and put the section of pipe underneath, and went to press out the lower bearing, which only pressed out the inner race and left the outer shell stuck in the upright. Not unexpected, and I just put the arm in the vice and used a long cold chisel (long screwdriver would do fine) to give the shell a few taps to pop it out from the upright. Then just clean it all up leaving it nice n spotless for the new bearings and dust seal (kit available from Kudos Motorsports) then very easy to spray a bit of silicone lube into the arm to slide the new bearings in nice n easy on the press. Once the new bearings were in, I used the old bearings to sit them on to and press the new bearings in that little bit further as of course they exactly match the outline of the new ones, and both bearings need to sit slightly below surface for the lower dust seal to then be pressed in, and the upper cap to be fitted once all back on the car and assembled.

It really was one of the easier jobs that I've done for a while and had allowed more time than it needed, as with a press and a few drifts handy to press the old bearings out and new ones in, they all went in and out without fuss.

A few pics, but unfortunately didn't take any during the 'press' part of the procedure; it was pretty straightforward though.

View of kingpin after upright removed

upright with upper bearing out

upright with lower bearing out

lower bearing, with new dust seal fitted

Disclaimer:

This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia or any affiliates be held accountable for following said actions, causing damage or harm to you or your car.

Introduction:

There have been numerous references to cleaning your AAC (Auxiliary Air Control) valve on your skyline on these forums, however I have noticed that many of these descriptions are fairly basic. As I was going to clean mine anyway, I thought I'd photograph and document the process so as to provide a tutorial for those attempting this themselves for the first time.

This isn't an overly hard thing to do, any many people with a basic knowledge of mechanics (Ie. Me) would be able to wing in without a manual, but nevertheless, if this DIY was available for me before I started, I would have used it.

Why clean your AAC Valve/ What does it do?

When your RB series motor is warmed up and idling it is your AAC valve which controls the amount of air entering your engine in order to control your idle. The best description I can think of for one of the things that your AAC valve does is if you were to sit in your car, stationary at idle and turn the steering wheel. The throttle blips in order to stop the power drain taken from the power steering stall the car. That blip was the AAC valve letting more air into the engine, bypassing the closed throttle body.

There has been much said about dirty/faulty AAC valves causing or attributing to idle hunting issues and this was my reasoning for cleaning my valve. This isn't the only cause of poor idle issues, but it can definitely attribute if not cause poor idle/ hunting idle issues.

Basically over years of use, carbon deposits rising from the engine, minute grit etc from the intake builds up around the valve and causes it to work in less than ideal conditions.

(Note, this is not the valve which controlls cold start revs on idle, that valve is connected inline on the same intake pipe as the AAC valve but is situated under the intake plenum on RB25's)

Car in Question:

1993 Model Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T (Manual)

Difficulty Level of DIY:

Low-Med

Time Needed:

Budget at least one and a half hours, longer if its your first time.

Materials/Equipment Needed:

-Torch (A must for finding those stupid bolts)

-Ratchet Set

-Philips Head Screwdriver

-Flat Head Screwdriver

-A Tray to Hold the Bolts

-Carby Cleaner! (Don't even bother if you don't have this)

-CRC Cleaner (Not a must, but I like to spray the electrical plugs with this while they're off)

-Gasket kit or Gasket Goop (Again, you may not need this providing your gasket holds together, mine did, but it will vary obviously from car to car)

Thanks to Justin911 for the gasket number from nissan (if you need it): 23785-57Y00

-Cotton Wool Buds

-Air Compressor/Air Gun (Not 100% nessecary, I just used the cotton wool buds instead, this would just make the job faster)

-A pair of pliers (For removing hose clamps)

Procedure:

1) Pop the Bonnet.....duh

2) Locate the AAC Valve & Assembly at the rear of the plenum (near firewall), see below picture its circled in red.

3) Before you remove the bolts that hold the AAC valve assembly to the side of the intake plenum, there are two electrical plugs and two intake (ones actually an output that goes to the cold start valve) that need to be removed, the plugs are red(browny) and purple you can't miss them (see above pic).

4) Before you start to remove the pipes from the AAC it's a good idea to remove the two other pipes infront of the AAC can get in the way, ones a Vac line and the both come out pretty easy, it just make life easier when getting to the bolts and pipes on the AAC (circled in yellow in pic).

5) Remove the pipes going to the AAC Valve, circled in blue. They're a little finicky.

I found it was easier to remove the pipe that goes back to the intake at the place marked with the blue circle, then once the AAC assembly was out, to remove the hose at the base of the AAC itself for cleaning.

6) Now using your ratchet, you need to remove the three bolts holding the AAC assembly on to the side of the plenum.

One bolt is on top, the other two are underneath, you can partially see one but you'll really have to find them by feel. See some of my later pictures of the AAC assembly removed if you want to see exactly where the bolts are in relation to the assembly.

7) Once the three bolts, 2 hoses and two plugs are removed you are ready to pull the AAC Assembly off of the side of plenum. Be careful if you want to re-use your gasket. (see pic)

8) Hooray its off! Take a look inside the valve, mine was pretty filthy (see pic) its no wonder after 13 years of driving! This could definitely do with a good clean, I could already see it was far from optimum.

(Note in this picture I've already removed the AAC valve from the AAC Assembly as described in the next step)

9) (I presume you've already removed the other half of hose as described in step 5, clean this pipe with cleaner too).

Its time to familiarise yourself with the operation of the AAC valve and Assembly, basically there are 3 parts. Held on by two screws is the AAC valve itself, you can remove this now, but be careful as there is an o-ring between the assembly and solenoid (DON'T LOOSE THIS). There is the Assembly itself and you can see there is a spring inside there with a diaphragm above it that when the solenoid activates it, pushes against the spring and opens the diaphragm allowing air in the intake pipe through the assembly and into the intake plenum.

On the bottom of the AAC assembly there is a screw, this can be removed for cleaning and is generally the dirtiest part as this is the idle control screw. At all times when idling the tiny gap that the screw when in allows air to pass through keeps the car at its steady idle. It's no wonder there is so much buildup.

(See pics, AAC solenoid by itself removed and circled in red the location of spring, diaphragm and idle spring, note you cant actually see the idle screw in this picture)

10) Its time to clean the assembly, carby cleaner time!

Be liberal, it might take a while for the crudd to break down as its really baked on there, but eventually it all comes off, as I said before, I used cotton wool buds to get to the harder spots but an Air compressor would most likely work much better. Make sure you manipulate the spring and diaphram, and make sure all those areas are clean as well as the pipe intake and out pipes. Also clean the idle valve screw (you'll see its hollow down its centre)

Wait till the whole assembly is dry and make sure again its all clean. Check the smoothness and operation of the spring and diaphram.

Clean the machined faces that face both the intake plenum and AAC solenoid to leave a smooth surface.

Check out my pics of before and after of the dirty valve and then cleaned, its a big difference, trust me! Especially in regards to the operation of the spring and diaphram.

Before

After

11) Now its basically the reverse to put is all back together, ensuring all faces on the AAC Assembly are clean, re-attach the AAC solenoid ensuring you have the o-ring in place. Re-insert the idle screw, be sure not to overtighten this, but it in to an amount where you can just see the end of it protuding into the plenum intake hole, we're going to adjust the idle properly later.

12) Make sure AAC Valve and Assembly is all dry and free of loose debris one last time, re-attach unit back into car in reverse order as above, ie: Pipes first, Install new gasket if needed, install bolts (DO not overtighten the bolts!).

Before re-attaching the electrical plugs give them a quick spray with CRC if you have it, and let it dry.

Also make sure you re-attach the two pipes we removed earlier in order to make getting to the AAC easier.

And we're done! Now its time to set the idle!

13) Now there are two ways to set the idle, the long proper way and the short easier way. I did the long proper way, but it's really up to you which you'd like to do. (NOTE: I HAVEN'T ACTUALLY TALKED TO A SINGLE PERSON WHO SAID THEY NEEDED TO DO IT THE LONG WAY, ITS PROBABLY NOT WORTH DOING IT STRAIGHT UP, JUST GO BACK AND DO IT IF NEED BE)

Basically in the long way you have to remove the kickpanel in the passanger footwell, remove the computer (while still connected) and locate the electronic idle tuning screw (see pic) DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES APPLY TO MUCH FORCE TO THIS SCREW, IT TURNS VERY EASILY!

14) Once you've located the screw, you'll see it can move through about 70 degrees, it should be pointing towards the bottom left corner, do not turn it past 12 o'clock. If it is already facing as far left to bottom as it can, turn it ever so slightly clockwise, just a smidge. Now turn the car on and warm it up, your idle may be fairly high depending on how far your idle screw is in, don't worry about this too much as we just want to warm the car up for now so we can work just on the AAC valve without the coldstart valve interfering.

BTW this is a picture of the Idle screw if you haven't figured out where/what it is yet (you should have if you cleaned it!)

15) Once the car is warmed up disconnect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) See pic below circled in red, it is on the opposite side to where the throttle wire rotates the throttle butterfly. (Note if you have an R32, the connection you have to disconnect when adjusting the idle is actually the brown electrical connector on the AAC assembly, not the TPS)

See where the car idles. Now depending on where it's idling depends how you turn the screw (AAC one, not the computer one), turning it clockwise lowers the idle, anti-clockwise increases idle. You want to aim for 900rpm. Once you have this by adjusting the AAC idle screw, reconnect the TPS connection with the car running, see if the revs change. If they do, you're now going to have to adjust them on the computer (see this is why we got it out).

It's the OPPOSITE on the computer to the AAC valve screw: Clockwise=increase idle, Anti-Clockwise=decrease idle.

You can move the idle in 50rpm increments so I'm told and at total variation of 250rpm, so DO NOT OVERTURN THIS COMPUTER CONTROLLED IDLE. This is only a fine tuning mechanism.

I didn't actually need to move my computer controlled rev, as my revs didn't change once I put the TPS electrical connector back in.

16) All sitting smooth? Turn the car off, put the computer back in its kickpanel, re-check all connections in the engine bay to make sure they're all tight etc.

Start the car up again and check idle.

Mine was sitting steadily on around 800rpm, perfect for me.

17) Obviously the easier way of setting your idle would be to do all of the above, minus the computer step. If it needs it, you could go back and do it properly.

18) GO FOR A DRIVE!

I don't know about you, but this has actually fixed my idle hunting issue, not to mention my car doesn't shudder or hesitate when coming to stop and pushing the clutch in anymore. Feel free to give me some feedback about your experiences with this DIY and how it has affected your car.

I hope this DIY has helped, please ignore my bad spelling and grammar!

-Insu

The attached PDF file is a brief DIY guide to the installation of an D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, as sold by Just Jap.

Hope it helps.

Oil_Catch_Can_DIY_Install.pdf

This information is provided for your information only, anything you choose to do with this information is completely up to you and in no way will I, Skylines Australia or any affiliates be held accountable for following said actions, causing damage or harm to you or your car

Introduction:

After hearing friends cars make the noise i figured it was a skyline thing, but when my own skyline started doing it i couldnt put up with even after 1 day of driving. I couldn't find anything on the internet about how to fix it so i went about my own way to find the cause.....with results. this is the 3rd motor i have fixed the last two motors work perfectly so its a tested method

Car in Question:

1995 Model Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

Difficulty Level of DIY:

Low

Time Needed:

Budget at least one hour, if its your first time. ive done 3 now takes about 20 mins including glue drying time

Materials/Equipment Needed:

-Phillips head screw driver

-2 flatblade screwdrivers

-Small length 8mm ring spanner

-5min araldite or similar glue

-Electrical tape

-If you want gloves when prying off the arm..........i ended up slipping and getting 3 stitches

Procedure:

start by pulling the glove box out by pull the 2 pins out

then take out the 6 phillips head screws and theres 2 press in clips that take a lil bit of force to pull out

the motor in question is right up in there.

this is where the 4 jointed arms come in there in two 8mm bolts in there (couldnt get picture) but they are easy felt.

once you have the two 8mm screws out lil the motor directly up pull it out unplug it and this is what you should have in front of you

start buy levering the 5 locking tabs out of the way (the ones ive done have all broken so yours will likely do the same)

lever open the two halfs can be a pain but if it comes up evenly will be fine

theres the cause of the noise the tooth breaks off cause the motor not to reach a load stop and just keeps trying to turn

its good to just inspect all the gears and teeth for strength.

Now this is the time where the gloves come in as i found out screwdrivers double as daggers (as you can see) lever the arm off the gear. this will require a bit of force it will either comply and come off or the glue will still have a hold on it.

once you have the arm off this is what results

careful to not loose the tension washer

check that theres is no left over glue or plastic inside the arm

now rotate the gear 180degrees from where it originally was so that the missing tooth is away from drive gear

another careful note. check that the copper strip doesnt fall out. not sure what it does but must be something

put a small amount of glue on the end of the gear

push the arm back on the gently tap it on with a hammer as the shaft is tapered, then clean up any excess glue. this should be the end result.

now put all parts that you pulled out back in the housing and put the two halves together being careful to align the locator dowels with gears. tape all way around motor (if you clips broke).

There you have it a completed fixed motor.

when reinstalling motor make double sure the arm slides back into the lever on top of the aircon box, have to do this all by feel.

dont over tighten the 8mm screws as its only plastic its screwing into after all, just till they bite.

plug motor in and reinstall all the glovebox surround etc and test the aircon changes around all the vents

Lastly Enjoy the quietness of no stupid clicking noise

PARTS SHORTLIST:
Rb25 harmonic balancer, ancillaries and brackets (even AC, if you want it), power steering bracket will likely need to be modified (google rb30det guide)
Rb25 OR rb30 sump (either will work fine, though from memory the rb25 sump needs modifying, I've used rb30 sumps multiple times without issue)
R33 Rb25 engine mounts (the metal brackets) SHORTENED by at least 15mm (15mm was just enough for my top mount turbo to clear the bonnet without spacers, 12mm would be fine if using a low mount). Be careful as removing any more then ~12mm from the engine mounts will have a factory rb30 sump pan start poking down lower then the subframe.
R32 gtr rb26 engine harness (don't need the whole engine bay harness + fuse box etc, engine harness is fine)
gtr injector resistor pack (if keeping stock gtr injectors, they're OK for ~280-300rwkw)
If you have rb20 coil packs and ignitor they will plug in and work fine, mine did - and still are.

WIRING:
Pull out the old engine harness, disconnect every plug it goes too gently.
Run the rb26 engine harness the same way around the bay and connect everything you can (should be a few connectors in the passengers footwell, wiper motor, etc)
Near the factory airbox location, there will be 1 plug on your body loom that fits one of the 2 plugs on the rb26 loom, connect it. The other plug will have 8 pins, 6 of which are in the same "segment", those are all of your injector "power" wires. If using high impedance injectors, just run power to these 6 wires, obviously switched with ignition - if your keeping the GTR injectors you'll need to wire in the resistor pack. the resistor pack will have 1 white and 6 black wires, connect the white wire to an ignition switched 12v source, then join each of the black wires to one of the wires in that remaining plug "segment".

Everything in the dash works, no need to swap in a GTR cluster, and the speed dependent power steering also works

FYI, these have been amalgamated across all the series (R32-R34 mainly)..some models were not available in a particular colour (eg JW0 was only on some Nur spec Skylines).

326 - Crystal White

732 - Black Pearl Metallic

AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic

AN0 - Super Clear Red

AR1 - Super Clear Red II

AR2 - Active Red

BJ0 - Light Blue Metallic*

BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl

BN6 - Deep Marine Blue

BP9 - Dark Blue Pearl

BT2 - Champion Blue (the colour of the LM spec GTR 33s)

DN0 - Green Metallic

EV1 - Lightning Yellow

EY0 - Silica Breeze

GV1 - Black Pearl

JW0 - Millenium Jade

KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic

KH2 - Gunmetal Grey Metallic

KH3 - Black

KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic

KN6 - Dark Grey

KP4 - Sonic Silver

KR4 - Sonic Silver

KV2 - Athlete Silver

LP2 - Midnight Purple

LV4 - Midnight Purple II

LX0 - Midnight Purple III

QM1 - Cloud White

QT1 - White Pearl

QX1 - White Pearl

TG0 - Light Grey Metallic*

TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl

TV2 - Bayside Blue

WV2 - Sparkling Silver

The attached PDF file contains all known colours used by Nissan. It is written in katakana. If your colour isn't listed, check the pdf because it's most likely there.

To come: DR30, R31, etc colour codes.

CLRNISSAN.pdf

This was slightly annoying as I had just gotten a shiny new toy that displays what all of the factory sensors are doing, and uses this plug to connect to the ecu....

This also applies to anyone wanting to use a consult cable/software package, or anyone wanting to take a car with a problem to a workshop for diagnosis.

Anyway, after making a few calls it seems that not many engine conversions have this port, unless it was specifically though of at the time of the conversion.

So here is a list of what you need to make your own factory style diagnosis port - without hacking into your loom. I realise that most people that undertake engine swaps are a clever bunch...but for those like me that need a little help, here's how to do it. Please excuse the photos, I had to use my phone to take them

1-Soldering iron with a fine tip (Preferably with temp control too)

2-A Nissan diagnostic port (found in most 89-96 Nissans, usually located near the drivers knee, just above the fusebox inside the car.) Most wreckers will be able to help you there.

3-some wire that is a similar guage to the stuff coming out of the plug so you can extend it sufficiently. (preferably colored the same as well!)

4-Heat shrink

5-The following link (for the pin locations.) Fortunately there are only 5 pins you need to worry about (The One Marked CHK was not needed for the greddy unit, but you may need it for consult. It's Pin 47)

http://d1nz.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1...9cc005368ab3525

6-Small cable ties

Start off by removing the ecu found under the passenger side kick panel. There will be 1 or 2 screws holding it to the body, and a bolt holding the loom in..

Then you need to open up the ECU to expose the inside of the corresponding pins that you will need to tap into being 21 & 22(diagnostic RX/TX) ,31(CLK), 45 & 50 (IGN/- or Pos/Neg) & 47 (To be sure-CHK) Some of these numbers are visible inside the board and are usefull for working out which angle you are looking at! Be sure to double & triple check that you have these right!!!! There are four main screws and a few for the mounting points

At this point it would be a good idea to make your extensions to the ports wires. Where possible use the same colour wire, heat shrink and cable ties to make it neat and easy to relate to the correct pins. I also spliced the power and earth cables for a future Fuel piggyback install. If you do this, be sure to insulate the bare ends.

Ok, heres the fiddly bit. Solder the wires to the corresponding pins so that they end up pointing upward. This can be a bit tricky unless you have three hands, because you want to try and get a solid connection quickly so as not to melt the plastic around the pins. Fortunately all but one of the pins are on the outside (look inside the ecu & you'll see what I mean) & so access is fairly easy. For the one that isn't (31) you can solder your wire from the other side of the board, on to the circuit board itself, and thread the wire through the conveniently placed hole to the other side. ALWAYS TAKE CARE TO MAKE SMALL NEAT JOINS THAT DON'T TOUCH EACH OTHER as they're all pretty close together in there. (Note I didn't have any black wire so I used the white stuff for my earth as well)

Now just neaten all the wires up with some small cable ties. I separated the spare power/earth ones and put a small amount of heat shrink on the ends. You will also need to make a small opening in the ECU cover for these wires to come out of. I used a dremel to grind away a small section on the edge of the lid. If you do not have a small rotary tool of some sort you may be able to use a drill and some files??

Then just finish off putting the covers back on and install as per the reverse of step 1 & voila! 1 Diagnostic port equipped VL:D

You can see a couple of the functions of this greddy unit below, and if you have consult you will be able to Data log for longer and more accurately, and have a better display, but this little Informeter is a handy little portable device that can be installed quite neatly to most cars and it has a sh1t load of useful display/logging modes. Can be had for as little as $270 delivered.

I hope some of you will find this helpful. Let me know if you feel I have left anything out or would like more info. I'd be happy to help

I hope you have been well, if you are reading this, we have a video detailing the process just below, and below that we have a write up for those who prefer some good reading material. 

Today we will be installing the Option B Blue Seats into the S15

Note: Most seats out of all S Chassy's are compatible with one another. If you have an old 180, 240, s13, s14, s15, then all the seats are interchangeable as the rails remain the same. So you can swap new seats into your old car, or if you have a nice set of aftermarket seats, and you're buying a new silvia to sell your old one, then you can slap them right into the new one.  

Now let's proceed with the installation.

If you have aftermarket seats, then you will need to make sure you purchase S-Chassy rails, the bride rails sit well in the s15 and are a nice option.

Step 1: You will need to remove the old seats from the car, this is quite straight forward. You will need a socket set, from memory i believe the size of the bolt was 12mm but i cannot remember exactly, as long as your set ranges from 8mm to 18mm you should be fine

Step 2: Locate the 4 bolts on each seat. You will find that there are 2 on the floor under the front of the seat, and when you move the seat forward, there are 2 at the back you will need to remove, one will be on the floor and the other against the transmission tunnel.

Step 3: I recommend unscrewing the front bolts until they are barely still in the hole, and can be removed with fingers, then sliding the seat forward to remove the rear ones and then you can reach underneath and undo the front ones. but, this is just how i did it, you find a way that suits you

Step 4: Tilt the seat backwards, you may see 1 or 2 connectors under there. Most people will only have 1 connector which is used to check if your seatbelt is plugged in, you will need to unplug this to remove the seat. Now you might be special, and have 2 connectors, this is not very likely, but if you are, shoot me a PM if you're removing your seats and you have that yellow connector  you have an extra step that needs to be taken

Step 5: Gently remove the seat from the car, without breaking anything or scratching anything.

Step 6: You might notice that your new/old whatever seats do not have the seat belt buckles on them, before you put them into the car, it would be a good time to remove the buckle off your old seat, and attach it to your new one. should be the same size bolt which is used to anchor the chair to the ground.

Step 7: Gently install the replacement seat into the car and pretty much repeat steps 4 to 1 in reverse order. (Again, for those of you with the yellow plug, PM me for step 4.5)

Step 8: Make sure all the bolts are nice and tight because this is what saved you from flying through the windshield at a sudden stop or crash  

Step 9: You're done! If you enjoyed this tutorial, you should consider checking out my other ones. I have quite a few videos focusing on aesthetics for the s15 and i plan to release a few more in the near future. 

Please also feel free to check out my channel for video guides and vlogs. 

Thanks for your time. Peace!

Hey guys,

I've been requested to do a DIY on the gauge install in my GTT. ill try to include as much info as possible!!

BTW i don't take any responsibility for anyone's attempts and if you damage anything you have no one but yourself to blame.

Now, We've all seen setups when the aftermarket gauges are just jammed in, honestly that would drive me up the wall. 

To remove the factory gauge cover holder

- pop out center vents located under factory gauges, use a plastic popping tool not a screwdriver. unplug hazard light

- two screws hold the gauge pod in, after undoing these you can lift the unit and you'll find one connector for all three gauges

- on the inside, two screws hold the gauges inside the pod

Once separated this is what you're left with

- Remove the 6 screws on the front to take off the plastic cover

- I cant remember how many screws hold the actual gauges, remove them all

- Now that its separated, this is whats left.

- Next step is to pull the aftermarket gauges apart.

These are shadow (defi copy) 60mm

- Using a tiny flat blade, had to bend out the bezel edge so the face could be removed

Bezel, Glass and gauge pulled apart

60mm gauges are a snug fit, all i did was align, pressure fit all three and hot glue holds it all together

Power, Earth, ACC and Illumination all can be tapped from original harness from memory 

To finish it off, i ordered a new plastic face from Nissan. think it was about $40 AUD

Final Assembly!

Enjoy! 

Well I am sure all of us have experienced the wet coolant leak appearing on the passenger side floor? If you haven't yet, well I am sure you will soon enough as these heater cores have a tendency to rust out and leak, it happened to me a few weeks ago! There are many posts of the heater core rotting out and how to replace these. All the posts I have read involve the removal of the whole dash and a weekend of labour. Well I am here to tell you that; YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE WHOLE DASH IN ORDER TO GET THE HEATER CORE OUT AND THAT IT IS ACTUALLY QUITE AN EASY, SIMPLE AN EFFORTLESS TASK TO PERFORM.

When my heater core started to leak I did a search on SAU on the replacement for the heater core for a Nissan Skyline and found allot of pictures and write ups on how to do so. All of these write ups involved the removal of the dash which is a long and tedious job. After studying quite allot of forums, I thought 'outside the box' and thought there has to be another way to do this. Whilst I was working on my 33 I worked out that there is another way to replace the heater core – let me remind you, YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE WHOLE DASH – please, read on.

Here are the steps in process to actually removing and replacing the heater core of an R33 Skyline GTS-t and GTR. R32's and R34 would most likely be the same way; however I haven't worked on these models yet.

· Step one: Go to your local Air Conditioning specialist and get him or her to extract your refrigerant (gas) from your air conditioning system. This cost me nothing to get the old gas extracted from my 33. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT EXTRACT THE GAS YOURSELF – VERY HARMFUL TO THE ENVIROMENT APPARENTLY

· Step two: Then drive home, DO NOT ATTEMT TO TURN ON YOUR AIR CON as it will be in a non compressed state, it will actually be in minor vacuum state and this is not good for your air con pump as it needs lubricant flowing around the system. Your pump will be fine providing you don't turn it on.

· Step three: Then you can remove the high pressure line (thin pipe) and low pressure line (larger pipe) using a set of spanners, I am not sure to what the sizes are. The pipes you want to disconnect are located on the firewall behind the turbo(s); the pipes are aluminium and lead into the cabin right behind the glove box. These pipes attach to the Evaporator unit located in the cabin behind your glove box. ANOTHER VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not let any dirt, water or grease actually get into these pipes, so cover the ends up with duct tape or stuff a tissue in there (tissue lint is harmless). And take note of the amount of lubricant that leaks out, if any.

· Step four: Now, go into your cabin passenger side and proceed to remove the glove box (there are two pins holding the glove box in place, which are located at the bottom hinge of the glove box itself). Then you can access the back panel behind the glove box, you will need to remove several screws that hold the back panel in place.

· Step five: Once you have removed this back panel, you can see the evaporator unit in all its glory. It is directly behind the glove box back panel – to the left is the fan box, middle is the evaporator unit and right is the actual heater/air direction box over the gearbox tunnel. The unit you need to remove is the evaporator unit only (middle piece). There are several strews top, bottom and sides, you will need to remove first and some plugs, but then you will be able to remove the evaporator box. Since you have the evaporator unit removed from the car it is a good idea to remove the lint, leaves and dirt which have built up inside the unit, especially on the element (the radiator looking thing). As this dirt restricts airflow through the system and can cause your air-condition system to work poorly, but you must completely seal the air- con gas line ends before you hose this out with water (the lines that you disconnected at the beginning). Water must not get into the gas system as it will freeze once you ragas/recharge the system later on and it will cause you big troubles throughout your Air-conditioning system. Anyway that aside let's move onto removing the rotten heater core.

· Step Six: Now that you have the evaporator unit removed from the car you will have full access to the heater box. Look right down the back on top of the gearbox tunnel right up against the firewall, you will see a little aluminium radiator looking unit housed inside the heater box, this is in actual fact your heater core element and this is the thing that is leaking coolant on your passenger floor. It is this unit that needs replacing NOT the whole heater box.

· Step seven: To remove the aluminium heater core element you need to do the following; There are two pipes, plastic pipes (one at top and one at bottom of the element) coming into the cabin from the engine bay. You firstly need to disconnect the heater hoses under your bonnet on the upper level of the firewall near the rear end of your right cam cover. Now place some plastic sheeting on you passenger floor to prevent any further coolant spilling while you do the following; There are four Phillips head screws holding the plastic pipes to the aluminium element, top and bottom. You will need to undo these screws in order for you to pull the heater core element out. These plastic pipes run through your firewall preventing the element from sliding out of the heater box. Once you have undone all the eight screws, you can easily remove the two pipes from the firewall. DONT LOOSE THE RUBBER SEALS.

· Step eight: So now that you have the upper and lower plastic pipes removed from your firewall, you will now be able to remove the heater core element from the heater box. BUT FIRST...There is a plastic clip running across the element holding the element it in place, you can do one of two things here: snap it off in frustration or take your time and try prying it off slowly. I cracked the shits and just snapped it off – you don't need it anyway, all it does is hold the element in place during manufacture, that's what I think anyway! The aluminium heater core element will happily slide out of the heater box and you will be holding it in your hands.

Well, that's it guys, that is all the hard work you have to do. All you need to do now is obtain a replacement heater core element either new from Nissan (approximately $550) or go to the wreckers and get a good second hand one for about $80, that's what I did! With the second hand one I bought from a wreckers in Sunshine I just washed it out with a little bit of acid (diluted with water of course) and left it no longer that five minutes sitting in the element. If you leave the acid in longer than five minutes it will actually start to eat away at the aluminium properties of your heater core and probably kill it. But washing it out with acid removes any dirt, rust and makes sure it will not rust in the near future. I tested my second hand element for leaks by placing it in a bucket of water and applying compressed air to the inlet and placing my thumb over the outlet to see if any bubbles occurred, which they did not. I then simply just put the second hand one back in and did the reversal for re-assembling the car. Make sure you flush your cooling system thoroughly and replace your coolant with a good grade – you don't want another rusted element any time soon!

Once your car is back together, you can either get you old gas put back in the air con system or have new gas supplied – I'd recommend new gas, as the old gas would probably be ten years old. Cost of recharging the gas system cost me around $110 including GST. So the whole job will cost you $80 for the second-hand heater core (give or take a few dollars) and $110 for new refrigerant gas and 3 hours of your time, you do the math! Much better than paying someone $1500 dollars to remove your whole dash.

I will happily do the job for probably $200 bucks, providing you get the car to me de-gassed and you supply a replacement heater core element, and of course if I have the time to do the job. But I highly recommend you give it a go yourselves it is a piece of piss to do and you will be proud of yourselves at the end knowing that allot of people have done it the long and time consuming way which is; REMOVING THE WHOLE DASH.

Good luck all and I am sure this will definitely help you all out. In my opinion; I believe that this was the way Nissan intended for the heater core to be serviced/replaced.

NOTE: I have pictures of the whole job from start to finish, however I am new to SAU and only signed up tonight and I do not know how to load the pictures on to this forum, maybe someone could tell me how to load the pictures? Or if you want a copy of the pictures simply email me and I'll send em your way.

Thanks for the read and good luck! Jason

There is anotherthread on the forum that describes how to re-wire your fuel pump so it recieves the full 13.8v that comes direct from your battery.

PARTS USED-

-1 metre of 6mm Red Power Cable

-2 metres of 6mm Black Negative Cable

-5 x 30 AMP Fuses

-1 x Fuseholder to suit Fuses

-1 x 12v DC Relay or Horn Relay (You'd want a relay with big terminals to fit your 8GA Cables)

-2 x Large Eye Connectors to suit your 6mm Cables (Big enough to fit on your Battery and Chassis Bolt)

-Pack of 25 Fork Connectors to connect to your Relay Terminals

-Pack of 10 Straight through connectors to suit 8GA cables

TOOLS-

-Pliers

-Crimping Tool

-Phillips and Flat Head Screwdrivers

-10mm Socket and Ratchet

-Multimeter (To check your voltage after modification)

LEVEL-

Low to Medium

I've tried to explain it a lot more in depth to make it easier

DURATION-

1hour - 1hour 30mins (depending on electronics background)

CAR IN USE-

1994 R33 gts-t

DIRECTIONS-

1. Disconnect the negative from your battery, loosen with 10mm socket and remove. This is to make things safer and so you don't damage your ECU.

2. Locate your fuel cell, mine was in the boot on the right hand side of my battery.

You will see cables taped up leading towards into the fuel cell lid. Start unwrapping the tape approximately 100mm from the the fuel cell lid until approximately 150mm of cable is visible. This allows enough cable to be cut and joined.

3. You will find 5 wires in total. You may notice that 2 of these cables are a little larger in diameter than the rest. These are your POWER wires feeding your pump. The other 3 smaller diameter wires are for your fuel level sensor.

YOUR ACTIVE CABLE IS THE BLUE ONE.

YOUR NEGATIVE CABLE IS THE WHITE ONE.

4. Cut both of these wires in the middle of the section you unwrapped.

5. With the white cable that you cut, strip the cables back 10mm and twist them together and crimp one side of your straight through connectors onto these twisted cables. Join your 6mm Black Cable to the other side of the straight through connector and run it neatly to your point of earth on your chassis using an eye connector (loosen nut/bolt with 10mm socket, place eye connector on and tighten back up). Now your fuel pump is totally grounded.

6. You now have your two blue POSITIVE wires that you cut leftover. Connect the side of the blue wire that comes from your computer to the coil of your relay (Terminal A1) using your fork connectors. This will be your switch wire, so when your computer tells the fuel pump to turn on it will switch the relay on. Then connect the other side of the blue wire that leads to the fuel pump to your N/O (Normally Open) side of the relay with another fork connector.

Normally Open means that the switch will be open in it's normal state (when there is no power going to the coil), when power is put on the coil (when the fuel pump switch turns on) it will close the switch and thus turn on your fuel pump.

8. Now Connect your 6mm Red Cable to the positive of your Battery with your Large Eye Connector and neatly run it to your relay. Connect this to the other side of your normally open switch with a fork connector. This will now feed your fuel pump with full 13.8v.

9. Your last connection will involve you to connect your 6mm Black Cable to the other side of the coil (A2) on your relay using a fork connector, and neatly run this wire and join it to your point of earth on your on your chassis (loosen with 10mm socket place eye connector on and tighten back up).

10. Here is a detailed wiring diagram. Obviously you can't see white wires on a white background so instead i've made this YELLOW.

11. Double check all your wiring. Reconnect your negative terminal on your battery and start your car.

Check the voltage going to the pump, you should now have 13.8v.

Hope this has helped out a lot of people.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

RJ

Diagnosis:

What I found is the metal tag on the black loom plug that goes into the tacho (the lower one on the side with 2 plugs on it, the right side as you look forwards) was sitting a bit lower than the other 2 on either side of it. Since this plugs into a socket which has a stiff plastic sheet for holding the connectors, I imagine that the 2 higher tags were lifting the sheet up and out of the way to make the contact with the tacho signal wire dodgy at best, and depending on how the car flexes and moves as you drive, possibly breaking all contact.

Procedure:

1. Remove the instrument cluster (not covered in this DIY, should be somewhere else in this forum)

2. Find the plug that goes into the tacho. On mine (R33 GTR) it's the lower plug on the right side looking forwards.

3. Find the tacho signal wire pin/tag on the loom plug. On mine, it's the pin that goes into something labelled "TAM" in the cluster socket, which is a track that goes directly into a bolt that holds the tacho on. The signal pin on mine sits between 2 other metal tags in the only group of 3 tags on the black plug.

4. Clean the metal tags and the copper track contacts with some electrical contact cleaner, plus maybe rub clean with something non-abrasive.

5. With a pair of jeweler's screwdrivers or similar (safety pins should be fine), very gently prise up the metal tag on either side of the middle, where the bend in the metal is, to make it flush with the 2 on either side of it. Try to keep the pressure uniform on both sides to avoid over stressing the metal.

6. Plug the dash back in and test it before reassembling everything, to make sure it works, or that you haven't made things worse.

7. If it's all now working, reassemble everything and have a celebrationary beer for having saved yourself a couple of hundred for a new tacho/dash cluster.

7a. If it's still not working, at least now you have ruled your loom/plug as a problem, and can more easily send your dash out for repair or replace it with another one.

One more amateur diagnosis check:

When I had everything apart, I checked the resistance on the tacho signal wire for the hell of it. The resistance went quickly from some high value to open circuit, each time I tested it and swapped to the earth next to it and back again. Since my tacho now works, I imagine this reading is indicative of a properly working tacho signal wire. If you have an earth here instead, or it doesn't skip from high resistance to open circuit, or some uniform low resistance value, then you might have a problem with your signal wire. I'm not an expert here, so this is just speculation and something for you to try while it's all apart.

NOTE: DON'T DO THIS WITH THE IGNITION ON!!! I always check voltages before resistance, to make sure I'm not buzzing out a 12V live feed.

This can only be done in the Jap Spec S15's, ADM ones may share bulbs, and process to remove is similar, so you can follow along too with discretion.

For this tutorial, all you will need it a few Phillips head Screw Drivers and the appropriate LED's. 

The LED's used include T4.2 LED's, but there are 2 different sizes for the Jap Climate Control buttons and Display Panel. (Currently, am unable to confirm the size of the Display Pannel LED's, So please let me know if you know what size they are so i can update here)

As i was not sure of the size for the smaller LED's, i simply used the old LED holder which was inside the unit, and removed the old bulb, and inserted the new one, and made it a bit smaller by filing and sanding it down (Do this at your own discretion. I am not responsible for any damage caused to any of your equipment if you do this wrong)

Once everything is ready, we can start with the tutorial!

You will need to remove the unit from the center console. To do this, start by removing the shift knob, followed by the Shift Boot.

Underneath you will find some screws towards the top part, undo these and gently begin prying at the sides of the center console, and with a bit of effort it should come out.

Now you should see the screws holding the console in place, there will be 4 screws similar to those that were under the shift boot. Undo these, and the unit should slide out.

Remove the clips from the back making sure not to rip the cables out of the clips. Now the unit should be free. 

Take your unit to a work bench for the next step!

You will be able to see 4 screws (for the jap spec one, ADM may be different) behind the face of the unit, there are another 2 screwed into the green PCB board, do not remove those 2. Remove the 4 screws behind the face plate.

Then you will see clips holding the 2 pieces together, there should be 3 clips on one side and 2 on the other.

Gently release the clips with a tool of some sort, and the 2 pieces should come apart. DO NOT PULL TOO HARD AS THERE IS A CABLE HOLDING IT TOGETHER

You should now be able to see 3 white colored LED holders and 2 black ones. From here simply swap them over. (in my case, as stated above, i had to modify the black ones because i do not know the size, so please let me know if you know. Thanks!)

Polarity does matter, so from here you will need to put the unit back together, and test, if some of them light up and some don't, simply pull the unit apart again, and change the orientation of the ones which do not work, by reversing the polarity, they should now light up!

Install the unit back in, and admire your work!

I found that: most of the problems were resolved by cleaning the switches, the last issue was fixed by re-soldering the relay in the "amplifier". Also the drivers side switch can be opened and fixed too.

So, the drivers switch internals;

As you can see it has the same problem as the passenger switch shown in the post linked above. That post says "10) STOP! dont try to pry apart the circuit board any further.. as you will break it.. if you look at this picture you can see that due to this whole assembly being screwed down THEN soldered in the nissan factory.. its not possible to remove this, so i just sprayed the cleaner as much as possible inside and re-assembeled everything, i suppose if it got really broken in there you could cut the circuit board to remove those 2 tiny little screws you see in the pic and get in there"

I eventually managed to get the assembly apart by removing the screws (the circuit board untouched) then flexing the black plastic. However there was some damage;

Perhaps you will have better luck. Anyway that break is not bad enough to cause issues and since the swtich was not usable anyway i figured i had nothing to loose.

So after clean up;

And, similar to what i found on the passenger side, the switch contacts were badly pitted;

So i reversed the orientation of these pieces before reinstalling them, hoping that may help them last a little longer.

Now putting the pieces in place;

And then carefully lowering the cap back onto the switch, making sure the switch lever points sit in the valleys before pushing it together. The tabs click into place and i left the screws out as the switch is very solidly mounted without them, and they would be very difficult to get back in.

After all that, I still had intermittent operation of down on the drivers side window. Up always worked, and up and down always worked on the passenger side. I found that the issue was due to dry joints on the surface mounted relay in what Nissan calls the "power window amplifier". This is a black box mounted under the door trim, occupying the space under the elbow rest/shelf/whatever that's called. Its attached by a metal bracket with two screws into the door shell.

To get inside the box, I put some sandpaper on a flat surface then wore away one long edge and the short edge opposite the plug end. The plug end is not bonded to the cap in that end, so now we have three sides of the box that are "free" and can then flex the side open. Sorry - should have taken photos. Once open there is a single circuit board with two surface mounted relays (that is, the relays are soldered directly onto the board). I noticed that two of the joints appeared to have a little carbon around them. From the service manual, the amplifier pin out is;

To operate the relays, apply +12v to pin 4, then connect ground to 1 and 2 to drive the relays. The intermittent operation occurred on the relay with the carboned up joints, and those joints didn't look like they'd been soldered well (they should look concave). I applied heat to the solder joints to have the solder re-flow onto the relay pin and board run. Re-checked them by applying voltage and they were now working well.

If you want to multimeter test the drivers side switch, facing the switch and labelling pins as

Drivers window;

1 & 2 - open circuit, connected on UP and AUTO UP

1 & 3 - open circuit, connected on DOWN and AUTO DOWN

1 & 4 - open circuit, connected on AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN

Passenger window;

1 & 7 - connected, open circuit on UP and DOWN

7 & 9 - connected, open circuit on UP

1 & 9 - connected, open circuit on DOWN

Looking to make a quick tutorial on how to change out your tail lights in the s15 for a set of aftermarket lights.

I have attached a video on the process you can view, and I have written the process underneath! Please let me know if you have any questions or feedback.

Steps to swapping your tail lights.

You will need to first start off by finding a nice set of aftermarket tail lights you would like to install into the car. I have chosen a set of Yashio Full LED tail lights (Apart from the reverse light) There are other nice sets out there too such as the dmax type and sex spec types. I prefer the Yashio ones.

Tools you will need:

- Phillips head screwdriver

- Flat head Screw driver

- Socket set (a spanner would work too if you don't have any sockets) - Mine was an 8mm socket, but I believe my nuts are incorrect so yours might be 10mm  

- You may also need some side cutters for cable ties if you have any

Once you have said set of tail lights and tools ready, we will start off by removing the old tail lights. If you open your boot, you will find the where the boot closes, there is a grey strip which runs from the left to the right of the rear of the boot, pictured below. 

You will need to gently unscrew the Phillips head screws (circled in green), and you will find they cannot be unscrewed any more, just pop them out.

You will then have some clips you need to remove, I have circled the points which need to be removed in red, just pop a flat head screwdriver in the tabs and pop them out.  There are 2 of these on each side. The grey peace should now lift up and out of the way!

Once you have the grey piece out, you will need to remove the 4 nuts holding the old lights in. there are 2 located next to the grommet, and then 2 moving out towards the middle, one is closer than the other. 

I have attached another image below of roughly where the nuts are located if you are looking down on it, you will see when you are working. you will also need to unplug the white connector going to your lights, I suggest you get a small Flathead and use it to push down on the release latch on the connector if yours are old like mine they can become a pain release.

The light should now slide out of its place, make sure you are holding it from the front so you do not drop it

Once the light is out, simply reverse the process. If you are installing the Yashio Tail lights like me, you will have a small black box you need to stick to the inside of your boot, and there will be a little plug you need to plug into that too, coming off the lights, simply unplug it to get the cable through the boot and back through the grommet, and then plug it back in once the cables back in the boot

(I am not 100% sure what this box is for, initially, I thought it was just to decrease the current and voltage so that it does not fry the lights, but cannot confirm if this is it's only use. It is quite large and would expect such a device to be much smaller. If you know what this is for I would be curious to know Please let me know)

Hopefully, you followed through with the tutorial and the new lights look great! Keen to see the results so post up some photos if you followed my tutorial, or even if you just came across it and you have your own lights

If you have anything you think I missed and you would like to add, please let me know, I can add it at any time