It's one of the 4 that hold the 2 halves together

Just copy and fill in the table;

Skyline model =

Wheel diameter =

Wheel width =

Wheel offset =

Tyre size =

Modifications to fit =

One of mine as an example;

Skyline model = R32GTST

Wheel diameter = 17"

Wheel width = 8"

Wheel offset = 35

Tyre size = 245/45/17

Modifications to fit = remove the front inner plastic guards, roll rear lip slightly.

cheers

I'm looking at:

1. RaceFab
2. Ikeya Formula
3. Nismo
4. GKTech
5. Voodoo13

Saw that Ikeya Formula offered FUCAs in 2 flavors for the R32 GTR, -5mm and -15mm. Does anyone know how much camber the -5mm arm would give? I recall reading somewhere that the -15mm arm would give ~3 degrees, which is more than I'm looking for (2 degrees).  

The adjustable ones from GKTech would be the obvious solution, but I might be able to get the Ikeya's for a condition and price I'd be amiss to pass up. Hence my asking. Thanks for any insight!

Did a bit of a search but un sure on this one. I wan to adjust the camber on front and rear of my R33. I may have to buy rear and front arm sets separately due to budget. Question is, which ones should I do first? Should I get the rears and drive around for a while and then get the fronts? Or other way round?

Ideally all would be done together Im guessing.

cheers

Amir

Car has

24mm front WL anti sway bar (also a rear one)

8/6kg BC coilovers (set at 22 click towards firm / below 22 too mushy, above too harsh)

Tyres are 245/45/17 on GTR rims

For my liking the front still has too much front sway. (rear is fine)

A mate mentioned that the tension bar bushes are quite soft on these car, but would changing them to poly bushes help with sway?

Any other suggestions what I could try?

Cheers

I have a little problem. My front drivers side swaybar mount on the back of the wheel hub is broken clean off!!!! WFT!!!!!

I have a whiteline blade adjustable swaybar with the heavy duty link kit and the kit is set to the third hole from the end of the swaybar.

Has this happened to anyone else?

I have ran both the blade adjustable front and rear bars for about a year and the Super Low King Springs for about 8 months without any issues...until now. Can this be replaced without having to replace the whole hub? Annyone?!

Nate

Stumbled upon this and thought it was worth sharing around, even though i doubt anybody will get to do it...

http://jpcnews.blogspot.com/2008/06/ultima...-on-r32-34.html

If there's one good thing about heavy performance vehicles, it's that they invariably have exceptional brakes. Throwing the braking hardware from a much heavier car onto somthing nimble and lightweight usually means loads more braking torque and greater resistance to fade. Backyard tuners have been doing this for ages, but now things have just been kicked up a notch by this, the first R35 brake caliper retrofit adapter that allows owners of "lesser" R32, R33 or R34 Skylines the chance to feel the titan grip of those 6-piston Brembos.

The adapter system was developed by an as-yet unnamed workshop, although we're sure we'll be seeing something like it on the shelves quite soon. All that's needed to mount these suckers on your 90s Skyline are two hefty-looking aluminium adapters that go between the steering knuckle and the calipers, the bolts to fit them together, and those monstrous calipers and 380mm floating rotors. You'll need some big wheels to squeeze them in, but it's possible with 18-inch Rays TE37s or Nismo LMGT4s - it probably helps if you've got a GT-R too, as the extra fender width and more aggressive offset would help shoehorn those wheels in.

As for cost we've got no idea, but considering the R35 is still a relatively new model we're betting that the total for all the hardware involved would be bordering on extortionate. Better to wait until a few more R35's get thrown on the junkheap first.

So I tried to fit a stupid drift button to my handbrake but somehow I managed to pull out the whole button and connecting rod from inside the lever and now the button has sank into the handbrake and won’t come out, I managed to pick up a r33 spare working lever.. are they a big job to replace?? Is there any links on how it’s replaced?? 
 

cheers

steering rack 

r33 

cheers

I recently bought some of the whiteline adj. swaybars from SK's group buy (for R33 GTSt) and was after some comments from people who have done the same. Some of the questions that come to mind are:

What settings are people running for daily?

and for the track (while on road rubber)?

Has anyone set them for motorkhanas (while on road rubber)?

I am assuming they don't make much of a difference for drag?

Is it possible to set them up too hard and have problems on the street (eg bad tyre wear)?

Any comments are welcome. Cheers

32 harness. i have already sorted mechanicals side of it eg correct rack ends and tie rods . Im aware the powersteering might end up lighter or heavier just need to know if it will work 

at all or burn out the 33 solenoid or should i just get a dc dc and find a setting it makes the steering a nice weight. cheers

Also on the hub end, the stock ball joints appear to maintain a better angle during up/down movement > less bump steer, with the ball joint pin allowing sideway deflection while still being " fixed"...and  replacing with a poly bush bolted to the toe-arm will turn the hub more, aka inducing bump steer. 

What's the arguments to the benefit of going with the delete kit, apart from it being a more solid setup?

any help would be greatly appreciated

I currently own a 2001 R34 GTR VspecII and the brakes are needing to be done.  I am getting a back vibration from the warped rotors that were like this before I owned the car.  I was able to find an Endless Big Brake kit on the used market but it is for a R33 GTR.  The seller assures me that they will direct bolt on with no modification but I am wondering if this is true?  

Thanks everyone!

I'm curious if the rear brake backing plate(s) on a 1999/2000 model GTR with 300mm rear discs is the same size as a later 2002 model v spec GTR

with the 322mm discs?

I've got a set of the v spec 2 brembo's that i'm planning to fit and don't want to be cutting the backing plate to fit them.

Would like it all to nice and original.

Was looking at these but not sure on the diameter.

https://www.nengun.com/oem/nissan/44020-12u10

https://www.nengun.com/oem/nissan/44030-12u10

Cheers,

Pete

ps. I'm planning on fitting this to a series 2 awd stagea.

The question of putting the GTR assembly into my GTST has me wondering what's different, would it work, are the control arms wider, would it bolt in, do I have to make new coilover mounts on the control arm to accommodate for the added width, how do I push those hubs out further. You get the idea.

I only ask this as I'm not a fan of Stance nation style or deep dish wheels, and I'd like to run a slight concave faced wheel, whilst widening my 32 and trying to stay somewhat legal and under the radar from the Police

They have suggested a bilstein adjustable coilover, for drag and street use.

Im confused however, they mentioned the rears would have a rating of about 8kg, I was under the assumption based off other threads I would be moreso looking for  alower kg rating such as 4kg? I have limited knowledge about rear coilover suspension hence going to heasmans.

Just wanted some clarification before spending the money, Cheers

Getting some new tires for my R32 GTR stock wheels. Will be only street use but want something pretty sticky and also good in the wet

Hoping for recommendations 

Cheers

Steve

Let me start the ball rolling :

Falken ZE326

Dry : 6.5/10

Wet : 3/10

Value for $ : 3/10

One of the worst tyres I have ever used. Was ok in the dry but had almost no grip in the wet. Terrible tyre for the price I paid. ($200 a piece, 235/45/17)

Bridgestone Potenza S-02

Dry : 8.5/10

Wet : 8.5/10

Value for $ : 8/10

Way better than the Falkens. Fantastic handling in dry & wet conditions. Too bad no longer produced.

I thought I'd chuck together a thread where everyone can post up the brake pads they have used and what they thought of them. I'll try and keep a summary up in this 1st thread as a quick glance resource. I'll list the pads as people post them up under three headings as either track only pads, track/street pads or steet only pads. For the summary I'll do a simple next to the pad name if people like them or a followed by a reason if people don't like them. Also if people can list where they got the pads from that would be great too. If you want anything else added let me know.

Track Pads

EBC Green (poor performance and taper wear)

EBC Yellow - OK but not as good as DS3000's

Ferodo DS3000

Ferodo DS2500 (rears) (crumble with hard use)

Performance Friction Carbon Metallic

SBS Dual Carbon

Track/Street Pads

Bendix Ultiamtes (Light track work)

EBC Green - OK But not as good as DS2500's

Endless SSS

Ferodo DS2500

Queensland Friction Materials (QFM) A1.RM (front+rear)

SBS Ceramic Carbon

Street Pads

Bendix Ultiamtes