I get about 10 X PM’s a week from guys with this problem, I have posted up what is required many, many times. But still the guys want a solution after they have assembled the engine, it is in the car and they now have a problem. Well the bad news is there isn’t one solution. The answer is to do all of the steps when you are assembling the engine and then you won’t have a problem. There is no one magic, off the shelf solution. Buying a brand name restrictor, sticking it in the block and expecting that to fix the problem on its own is naive at best. Similarly fitting a baffle in the cam covers may overcome the catch can problem but it will still leave the others.

On the circuit race cars we take a 5 step approach in controlling the amount of oil that is trapped in the cylinder head and/or blown into the catch can;

1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard)

2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc.

3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump

4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block

5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil

It seems to me that many guys do #2, and some maybe #1. If you haven’t done #3, #4 or #5, then please remember that they are cylinder head off jobs. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block is pretty much self explanatory. As is machining (die grinder) around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil to the return bgalleries. The external oil return fits to the rear of the cylinder head at the Y, there is a welsh plug there that you can remove and replace with a fitting. Then braided line to another fitting in the top of the LHS sump wing if you have one. If you don't, then you should for circuit and drift work.

I have tried to include every commonly used word that I can so that this post pops up when a search is done on this problem. Maybe that will cut down the PM's to only 5 a week

cheers

PS; this post is not designed to stop people asking questions via PM's, maybe just reduce the repetitive ones. Plus it will hopefully save people a lot of money pulling the cylinder head off to do what is easily done for very $few when the engine is being built in the first place.

Ive noticed a high pitch squeal in my car which wasn't there when I got it. I'm certain its not the gearbox and I'm 95% sure its the turbo. I had my rubber induction pipe and the sound was loud. Changed to aluminium and its still audible but hardly, so I know the aluminium tubing is muffling the sound. Anyway, the sound is like a seeeeeeeek sound which happens ONLY at 1800rpm and occurs to 2000rpm, depending on throttle position. If I go harder on the throttle when the sound occurs, it stops. Same as if I ease off slightly. What could it be? I know its a sound coming out of my intake side because the change from rubber to metal induction pipe made a big difference to the sound.

The turbo is a high flowed VL turbo with a GT3071 BB turbine etc. Ive checked for shaft play and there is literally no shaft play. There is no fouling of the comp wheel hitting the comp housing. I cant check the exhaust side though but I doubt it would be as the sound would not have been altered(would it) after the induction pipe had been changed.

It hits boost fine, it holds boost fine, its been like this for a little over 3 months and hasn't really gotten any worse/better.

The turbo wheel spins very freely by hand. What could it be? Should I be worried? Should I be hearing any noises from my turbo? Bearings on their way out?

Hey guys. Apologies in advance for the age old topic and question, but I'm having a very hard time finding any of the old threads and results on SAU about this and other skyline forums aren't much help either. Even google search results aren't yielding any solid information.

What I want to know is, how do the rb25 s1/2 HKS 256 8.8 / 264 9.0 "drop in" cams compare to Tomei 256 8.5 / 256 8.5 pon cams as far as boost response is concerned ??

I currently use the poncams and I'm wondering if I install a set of the hks or even just a hks exhaust cam, can I gain a little more mid range and peak without loosing any response...

The only sort of info I have been finding is people speculating about a set up they "know of" or "a mates car used these and made heaps of power"...

Obviously a before and after dyno comparison on a same car, same dyno & same day with the two different brand of cams would be ideal but I highly doubt that info is out there..

My set up is s1 rb25 with HKS 2835 pro S .87a/r internally gated on e85 making 470whp on 24psi

Any links of help is greatly appreciated lads [emoji1365]

please no chatter or conversations as to make the thread easier to wade through if it gets as big as the rb25 thread!

all relevant engine mods would be great too.

cheers

Please post your RB25 dyno graphs only and state the following:

-Engine management

-Boost ran

-Fuel used (pump or special)

-significant engine mods (eg cams)

The idea of this thread is to be a quick reference to various turbo's performances on RB25's, not to be a discussion thread.

Thanks

(If this has been done already let me know, but didnt come up one in search.)

This post was updated on: 01/06/2017:

This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services.

Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers.

My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required.

For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP.

PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator.

Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets.

ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability.

ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen.

Initial release date: 24/08/2009:

We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance.

Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units:

Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores.

Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards.

Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut.

For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area.

Installing ATR43 turbocharger:

ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra.

Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms.

Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis.

ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos

ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video

Easy Induction pipes:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89

Couple of extremely important factors:

1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks.

2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep.

3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe.

4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust.

If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal.

Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs.

Order, dispatch and mechanic services:

All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery.

We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250.

For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift.

ECU:

For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.

Link to the first attempt. A wealth of knowledge in it. 

annnnd go!

https://www.turbokits.com/Nissan/Skyline_R32,_R33,_R34/Turbo_Upgrades/ATP_Garrett_GTX2867R_Gen_II_Drop-In_Turbo_Upgrade_-_RB26DETT_(1000HP)/10764/

Will be on a Flex Setup RB29 WIth PLenty headwork.

Car : R33 GTST

One of the three bolts (the top one) that holds the AAC valve to the plenum has snapped. There is nothing sticking out for me to grab it and all the thread is in the plenum. 

Is removing the top half of the plenum the only way for me to get to it for an extraction?

Thanks.

(I did search for this particular issue but only found threads about broken studs and bolts in other spots)

Converting to single turbo on my RB26 and utilising an existing single turbo manifold from my RB25 that has both RB25 and 26 stud pattern.
However, RB20/25/30 is all M10 exhaust manifold studs and RB26 is M8 which leads to lots of slop on the exhaust manifold when fitting to the head.

Is it common to change to M10 exhaust studs when going single turbo RB26? Or even use some kind of stepped stud? Or people are happy to have some slop when installing the manifold.

Have searched as i thought it may be a common problem however finding no info online about it at all.

any help appreciated, thanks.

yesterday I tried to start my GT-T the first time after upgrading to GTX3076 and Link G4+. Well, it failed.

What has been modified?

• Link G4+
• GTX3076 int. wastegate
• Link 3 bar map
• Tomei headgasket
• Deatschwerks 600 cc injectors
• Deatschwerks DW300 Fuelpump
• Blitz FMIC
• 3" catback + 3" downpipe + custom turbo elbow
• Oil gallery restrictor
• GFB Mach 2 blowoff

What was not done, but will come in the near future?

• Fuel pump rewire to replace the fpcm
• Link IAT sensor (not wired in)
• Tomei fuel pressure regulator
• wastegate actuator (mounting plate missing)
• boost soleniod not installed because ot the missing wastegate actuator
• wideband (oem narrowband installed)

Modifications to the ECU:

• R34 GT-T base map stored to ecu
• configured for link map sensor
• calibration of the map sensor
• calibration of the tps
• deactivated temp3 input (fuel temp - was enabled in base config and causing errorcode)
• deactivated the iat because of not being installed yet

When I turn the key the fuel pump and injectors get highlighted in green, so I think that the ecu activates them. The starter cranks the engine but with no sign of firing it up.

Could it be a problem that the iat is diasbled? should i reduce the duty cycle of the injectors? Is there any further config needed that i could check before searching for issues (ignition spark/fuel/etc)? 

Im on the left hand of the lane on this slip.

The right hand lane had drag radials on but I dont want to go there.  What is a good street tyre could be a semi slick but I want to be able to run on the street/summer driving.

R32 GTR with Stock 16" wheels and hunting the 10 sec pass.

Thanks.

Been doing a fair bit of reading on SAU and other places regarding blow-by, catch-cans and the good ol' PCV valve.

For now, let's assume we don't want to vent to atmosphere - i know we probably do, but for this argument, let's pretend we don't

It seems there's two trains of thought regarding blocking the PCV. Some say you need to leave it intact if you're not venting to atmo, others say it's best to block it.

I'm trying to get my head around which is actually better, and why.

The way I understand it, in 'stock' configuration, the PCV allows the engine to breathe into the intake manifold while under vacuum, and closes under boost, when it can breathe via the exhaust side hose into the pre-turbo intake pipe.

If we were to just block the PCV, and change nothing else, wouldn't it just mean that all of the breathing would happen via the turbo inlet pipe? Aside from the large amounts of oil that would be pushed into the intake, are there any other issues with this?

If we then put a catch can with a decent oil/air separator setup in between the rocker cover and the intake pipe, wouldn't this allow the engine to breathe as required, without pushing any oil directly into the intake manifold and reducing the octane rating?

I figure I must be missing something here - mainly because of this: Nissan put a PCV valve in there for a reason - it must be required for something I'm overlooking!

thanks 

jack

What is this new sorcery¿

Facebook screen shot:

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/g-series-g25-660

Ill be going with a Link ECU with Flex Fuel and Boost Control. We will soften the limiter up as much as possible to prevent harmonics destroying the oil pump as still a standard motor.

Larger Intercooler ( Already in car )

HKS T04Z Turbo, Manifold and wastegate ( Purchased )

HKS Fuel Rail ( Purchased )

1000cc Denso Injectors ( Purchased )

Nismo Super Copper Mix Clutch ( Installed )

Either HKS or Tomei drop in Cams ( Not Purchased ) Should i get adjustable cam gears or not really required? Also will Valve Springs be warranted for my goal? 

Use a standard oil Pump with Billet Gears ( Not Purchased )

1.5mm Head Oil re-stricter ( Not Purchased ) Is this all i need to do ?

After market Head Gasket to handle the extra Boost. Will i have to deck the block and head for this?

Walbro 460LPH Intank Pump ( Not Purchased ) Would this work as a replacement in tank pump? Will i need to run a bigger supply line for this power? I do want to avoid mounting a surge tank but at the end of the day if i have to i will. 

Fuel Regulator ( Not Purchased )

ARP 2000 series head studs ( Not Purchased )

If i need anything else then let me know. Obviously ill be replacing all of the coolant hoses and intake gaskets while the motor is out.

If anyone is selling any of the above parts that i may require then flick me a PM. Cheers

have done a days with of searching and haven’t found a thing about what is needed to fit a rb25det neo gearbox to a rb30et engine block

also does anyone know if you can use r34 stock engine mounts to hold the rb30 block

There is no plate on it.

The compressor wheel appears to be 60mm and the exhaust wheel appears to be 60mm.

I bought it and had it on my car in 2013/14 and it has been off the car ever since (being so long ago I forgot where I purchased it).

Thanks

should I just ask my tuner how I should plumb it? 

—————————————————————

RB25DET NEO

Holset HX32 twinscroll

sinco twinscroll mani

profec b spec 2

turbosmart ultragate 45mm 14psi spring 

Can someone help confirm if its a one way valve or a restrictor that sits in the Turbos Intake to Rocker Cover (passenger side) on an Rb26? 

I'm running a plumb back Oil/Air separator and was just wondering if i can piss that off (probably not). It's doing my head in as on the turbos intake side, it's AN10 but once met the restrictor, it becomes AN12, where the hell do i find something like that.

Thanks

I’m a bit perplexed….

Have had the Skyline (Series 1 R33 GTS 25t) for about six years now…came with a 3inch cat back exhaust system….was running well….in the last six months I have done the following….

Full 3 inch exhaust system

Greddy V-Spec FMIC

Apexi Pod Filter

Apexi Mechanical Boost Gauge

Turbotech Manual Boost Controller (the eBay one).

After I installed the exhaust, intercooler, and pod, I noticed that when flat out accelerating, in 3gear, a slight hesitation (miss??) around 5000rpm would occur – boost was at 7lbs (0.4Bar). This would happen intermittently, in cold and warm weather.

Just recently installed the Turbotech Manual Boost Controller and increased the boost to 10lbs (0.7 Bar) and this hesitation (miss(?) with a backfire) was more pronounced at the same RPM – around 5000.

Took the car out today on the highway and gave it flat to the floor acceleration from a standing start in 1, 2, 3, 4 gear, and it seemed to backfire when it reached the higher revs (above 4000rpm), making popping noises out of the exhaust, and surging forwards – it would lose power with every pop, then pick up again….so I stopped this very quickly, and drove it home, off boost, and it ran fine. It also runs fine when accelerating hard at low rpm, but as soon as it gets to around 4000 - 5000rpm+ it seems to miss and backfire – can’t hear any pinging though?

I have read on these forums that re-gapping the spark plugs to .8mm may help when turning up the boost (as they are 1.1mm stock I think), so I’ll probably buy some new plugs with the smaller gap, but was wondering if it could be anything else?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Pete

PS: I reset the ECU after every modification as suggested in other threads.

have done some serious work to my engine atm:

2.9L stoker kit

Neo ultimate head

Tomei 260 camshafts 

Yellow jacket coil pack

otaku garage forward facing intake plenuim with a 90mm throttle body

and I’m not even on my L plates yet

thats why I’m doing all this work so when I get my p’s I can do an actual gtt turbo not a plus t setup

so if anyone has suggestions on what I’m doing and what I could do better please let me know 

but back to my main question 

can you convert the internals of a gt gearbox to a gtt

ive heard there the same just internally different but want to be sure

and should I be upgrading diff and drive shaft

thanks jack

anyone know how much can actually be bored from a 25 neo and what pistons would fit that bore
And what is a good place to do that close the Brisbane 

thanks

jack

I Bought a set of tomie cams for the RB30DET but there was a mix up when the company i bought them off and I cant get onto them to recterfy the problem.

So I have a series 1RB25DET head which had a metal CAS on it. The cams I received look exactly the same (apart from lobe) and also the alignment key for the CAS. I believe they are series 2 cams as I heard the neo cams run shim n bucket.

What I want to know is will I have any problems installing these cams and plugging in a series 2cas?

I had a search on the forum and couldn't find what I was lookin for.

Thanks in advance

Adrian

THE-31

Planning to add these mods 

Free flow air filter 
Free flow exhaust 
Upgraded fuel pump 
Boost controller
Front mount intercooler 
Colder spark plugs 
Custom ecu remap 

Z32 AFM? 

Just wondering do I have to upgrade injector,fuel rail and turbo? Or can my stock turbo, injectors and fuel rail handle it Aiming to get 200rwkw I don’t mind if it’s a bit less than that and not needing to upgrade the turbo, injectors and fuel rail 

and can i still run with without a BOV

sorry for the noob questions any help will be appreciated thank you