just was wondering what’s the part number for oil filter for m35 2003 rs awd any help much appreciated 

You will need :

4WD Gearbox (R33 GTS4 or GTR Box) – Be aware of push vs pull type clutch though as a pull type clutch setup is usually more expensive than a push type.

Flywheel (9 bolt turbo type) & Bolts

Clutch & Pressure Plate & Bolts

Bellhousing Bolts

Clutch Pedal (R34 Skyline or Stagea Pedal)

Brake Pedal (Stagea or cut the auto one down, R34 Pedal does not fit)

R33 Handbrake Lever & Bracket

Clutch Master Cylinder

Clutch Line

Centre Console (Stagea or cut & modify original with an R34 or similar)

Manual Spigot Bush

Access to a hoist & if possible a gearbox lifter

Plenty of tools (drill, etc etc)

Some friends to help you lift things

2 packs of Cigarettes

2 Dozen Beer (Quantity may vary depending on consumption levels)

Start off by getting the Stagea onto the hoist. Remove battery as its going to be in the way when you unhook the Trans cables which are located under it on the inner guard. Unplug all 4 plugs.

Remove lower dash plastics & steering columns shrouds. Remove centre console & shifter assembly. Unbolt footbrake assy & while your there the brake pedal aswell, you may need to lower the steering column to do this.

You will also find that the heater vent pipe is in the way, remove that too.

You should now be able to see the dummy holes for the clutch master cylinder.

Drill these out but very careful when pushing through as the steel is very thin & ABS brake lines are just on the other side.

Rebolt in your new or modifed brake pedal & vent pipe. Push your clutch master cylinder through & bolt up your clutch pedal. Don’t forget about the split pins!!!!

Might aswell remove your footrest while your there, pop the centre cover off with a screwdriver & undo the two 10mm bolts. Remove the ignition lock out cable from the auto shifter. Reassemble your dash.

Now you need to make a choice. Take gearbox out on its own or take complete engine/gearbox/subframe out. I recommend taking the entire unit out. I just pulled the gearbox & I think this is why it took so long to do. I’ll do the steps for taking the auto out on its own anyway.

Put the car up in the air. Remove the front driveshaft, rear driveshaft loop, rear driveshaft, starter motor, trans cooler lines, unplug the speedo pickup, undo the hydraulic line from the diff. Slide a gearbox lifter under the trans & lower it down a bit. Undo your bellhousing bolts so you can slide it back a little. Pop the rubber cover off the sandwich plate & undo the torque converter bolts. You should now be able to slide the box out, this is the part where you need some mates to help you out.

Now your box is out have a bit of a look & you will see that there is no hole for the shifter (if you hadn’t noticed already that is).

You will have to cut a hole. Measure the distance on the gearbox for the shifter then mark it out on the trans tunnel from the sandwich plate on the engine. Work out how much of a hole you need. The hole is not centred but should be slightly towards the drivers side of the vehicle. Before you cut make sure all your cables are out of the way inside the cabin. Especially the ones for the airbag module.

While your checking cables back in the cabin; get a star screwdrive & remove you airbag module (CAREFULLY!!!!!!!), bolts will probably have loctite on them. Gently put it to one side.

Swap your R33 handbrake cable for to the position your old footbrake cable ran through. Refit your module (CAREFULLY!!!!!)

Now you need to remove the auto trans spigot bush from the back of the crank. Some people have different ways off doing it. I used a die-grinder then bent it in on itself until I could pull it out. Oil up & fit your manual spigot bush. Bolt up your flywheel, clutch & pressure plate. Looks like we’re getting somewhere now.

Might pay to bolt up your clutch line now while things are out the way & replace your thrust bearing. Hook up your handbrake lever to your cables aswell.

This is where it gets a bit tricky. You will need to tilt the motor back so you can meet up with the box. Do whatever you have to do to do it. Raise the box up into position while bringing it forward (surprise, surprise) & you will find the the trans tunnel is narrower than the box. You will be able to get the input shaft just about past the lower pressure plate fingers. If you are worried about damaging your car this is where you will realise that you should have dropped the whole subframe out.

Anyway, slide another gearbox lifter under the front of the box. Pump it up under the front of the box essentially forcing the trans tunnel (slightly) into the room you need, you won’t need much & the gearbox will slide into place & it will all of a sudden look like there is masses of room. Get the box bolted up & begin reassembling everything.

Hook up your clutch line to the box. Bolt up new bellhousing bolts, driveshafts, remove the crossmember from the auto & bolt it up to the manual box, plug in your speedo pickup, diff hydraulic line. Fill the box with fresh fluid and bleed up your clutch master cylinder.

You will now need to mount your handbrake lever, there is a bracket in the centre of the trans tunnel for the centre console, you will need to remove that. Weld, bolt, screw or pop rivet it onto your trans tunnel. Run the cable for the handbrake light from the footbrake position to the new handbrake. Fit/modify your centre console.

Go back to the front of car with the four plugs. The two pin grey plug is your inhibitor switch, put a loop between those (cut plug off auto trans loom). The brown plug is for the reverse lights (well two pins of it anyway), hook those up.

You should be about ready for some 4WD Heli’s!!!!!!!

Big thanks to Kelvin, Rob & Jason at The Cartune Company (tools & hoist), Brent, Jason at Te Rapa A/E, Ueli, Sjoerd & Phil, for the muscle power and help, & of course Corona for help with the inevitable dehydration & B&H for the stress relief.

First post and It’s a simple one, have just bought an m35 Stagea, 2004 2.5T

It’s fitted with HIDs and I’ve never been a fan of these so plan to remove them

What are the type/ ratings of the standard bulbs that would have came from factory (headlights/sides/fogs)

Thought I’d ask on here first before I start messing around and smashing bulbs as I’m using the car as a daily at the moment 

Thanks in advance 

My new wheels, R34 GTR rims with 235/45/18's.

New rocker cover gaskets go in today at ERD, and hopefully there is no leak in my power steering system.

The front shocks look to be the same as R33 GTR, as is the rest of the front suspension

The rear shocks look to be the same as R33 GTST (eye at the bottom)

No HICAS, yahooooo

The front stabiliser bar is 22 mm hollow, like an R33 GTR.

I am fitting a 24 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNF27XZ)

The rear bar is 19 mm and solid, like an R33 GTS

I am fitting a 22 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNR11XZ)

The front caster bushes are the same as R33 GTR, it definitely needs mores caster (it was getting the front end wanders at 170 kph)

I am fitting some Whiteline adjustable polyurethane bushes and adding about 2 degrees positive caster (part # KCA332).

Ours sits a little rear down (maybe carried stuff in the back a lot)

Has around 2 degrees negative camber, which is more than the standard adjusters can remove

So I am fitting some adjustable Whiteline bushes in the rear upper arms (Part #KCA347).

The front looks OK for camber, should have a little negative when I lower it.

I didn't remove the shocks to check the spring rates, I will do that when I remove them to swap to the Bilsteins. The front springs look to be a similar rate to R33GTR, the rears are different though. I will machine a couple of extra circlip grooves into the Bilsteins so I can lower it just enough.

Hope that is of some help :type:

My brother who doesn't know much about imports thinks it could be the accelerator pedal sensor and took a photo of it for me and told me to locate someone selling that part, the number on the part is 18919-6N201 but when I search it nothing to do with a stagea comes up. Basically I'm after a part number so I can see if that's the issue and I'm also very very open to any other ideas to what my problem could be. My car was stolen and since having it recovered it's been this way. 

Unfortunately my rear sunroof has stopped auto closing/opening when tapping the button. The front one hasn't since I bought the car, no big deal but today the rear one stopped working and I have to press and hold the button to complete either the tilt or slide function.

I used to be able to just tap it once and it'd tilt, tap it again and it'd slide open but now I have to press and hold.

Is there a sensor that's gone bad or is there a way to recalibrate?

TIA

Hi guys,

2002 NM35 axis autech with  VQD25DET motor

1 Could anyone supply a Throttle body pin out please  , as well as a Wiring diagram?

I have a  throttle body  and will replace the old one, but there could be possible wiring problems as well.

I have located several posts but the attachments are no longer available.

2 Also where is the ECU located  and how is it accessed .

Thanks in advance 🥺

2 days later and 60 km or so sat there and cried as my car bled coolant everywhere at the recycle can place checked it over plastic top tank end leaking next to the radiator top hose 

so another wad of cash needed new rad on the way fingers crossed all is well

i forgot what import life was like took me 22 years to get my Jdm life back 

Now before anyone goes rattling on about there being no such this as a boost cut, and that its R&R, the RB25 NEO does indeed have a boost limit, and its all thanks to a little MAP sensor mounted off the firewall at the rear of the engine. It seems that the only function of this MAP sensor is purely to let the ecu know if a certain boost limit, which is ~14psi, has been reached or exceeded and plays no part in the general running of the engine or tune.

"How do I know i've hit the boost limit?", well for one you should know its a pretty good chance of being hit if running boost pressures around and above 1 BAR (~14psi). When you hit this limit it feels like you drive into a wall, the engine powers down hard until a set rpm and load point is reached before allowing you to accelerate again.

Just a little warning, if your S2 is hitting boost cut and you still have the stock turbo, don't just bypass it, either your running too much boost for the stock turbo, or something is wrong with the boost control in your car.

"How do I overcome this problem?", there are a couple of ways to get around it, one more technical than the other but both work to the same effect.

The first way is to remove the MAP sensor all together. This will through an error on the ecu and is overcome by feeding a voltage down the ecu's MAP sensor input to trick the ecu into thinking the sensor is still there and the limit hasn't bee reached. I don't know the voltage to feed the ecu but i know it has been successfully done.

The second way, the easier way, is the way i have done it. This involves just removing the vac line from the sensor so it see's no boost pressure, leaving the sensor connected to the ecu so no errors are thrown, and because the sensor is purely there to let the ecu know of an over boost, the engine will run fine without it.

What you need:

- A pair of Pliers or Side Cutters

- A clean M6 bolt, used to block the vacuum line

- A cable tie, to secure the blocking bolt in the vac line

The procedure is as follows, and its that simple anyone should be able to do it. First locate the MAP sensor, mounted off the firewall above the rear of the engine.

Remove the vacuum line from the sensor, i took it off just before the one way valve thing, the other end goes to the crossover pipe.

Block the end of the vacuum line off with the M6 Bolt, i used a cap head bolt (allen key bolt). I also had to trim back some of the hard plastic cover on the line. If you pull the vac line out of this cover and want to get it back in there just spray some silicone spay/lubex or similar on the line and it should push through without getting stuck. Once the bolt is pushed down the end of the vac line secure it on there with a cable tie.

Thats it. Just leave the MAP sensor side of things as is, blocked vac line just sitting there.

Just one thing left to do, and thats boost it up.

What are the current upgrades , given that i'm not planning on going major on the mods. I'd like more boost, but not a laggy pig either!

Do i just get a high flowed std turbo, like http://www.digi-hardware.com/m35highflow.htm , or a new unit ? Any recommendations ?

Recently got a new BOV and I've adjusted the pretension spring so it only "blows off" above 4 PSI, which means if I release the throttle at ~2 PSI I get a nice fluttery Su-tu-tu-tu which my inner 14 year old self loves. My logic is that surely this couldn't possibly damage the turbo like 14PSI with no BOV could. What do you reckon?

Thanks 

IMPORANT: THIS THREAD DOES SHOW A WAY TO INSTALLING THE AP900 IN MANUAL MODE, NOT CAN-BUS!!! i will not cover any damage which is caused due installation or accident!

hello guys and girls,

i sourced a liteon AP900Ci cruise control and viewed many websites to find all informations i need. unfortunatelly i wasn´t able to, so i searched within the japanese stagea M35 workshop manual. i´m not a guy who is hiding any informations, so here i am.

as you see the pin i was going for is 29 which you can found at plug 3. from my mind its yellow wire with blue stripe. as the plug does have more wires in real then in diagram shown, i recommend to orientate on that the one site of plug does have 3pins on one site of the clip and the other site does have 4pins.

i connected the orange wire from the AP900 main harness to this wire above. but i would recommend to use a wire which sources the fuse box. in the AP900 main harness the orange wire allready does have a fuse integrated.

Step 5 (get a speed signal):

and here comes the point i searched the internet but didn´t found the information i was after. what i found for example was a thread where someone requested where to get the speed signal from for his pivot throttle controller with cruise control function. unfortunatelly nobody wrote down the answer, so i had to search by myself.

 

the car runs a speed signal via can-bus. the can-bus seams to get its signal from ABS control unit which is attached to the ABS block in engine bay. so what i was after was a speed signal from one tire as there seams to be no vehicle speed signal on any wire. so what we grap here is a tire speed signal.

 

 

due to translating the workshop manual into english i found the trouble shooting point which gives me an important information. as you see in the translated trouble shooting, the pins 22, 24, 26 and 28 are the source site (i thought it would be the signal site first). so the correct pins you could picking up tire speed signals from are pin 7, 9, 11 and 13.

 

my first thought at this point was to get the signal directly from the abs control unit, but i thought there should be a better way than running a wire throught the firewall.

 

so i decide to have a look if the rear sensors running the whole way on underfloor or if they maybe run throught the inside of the car.... and i was right!

 

looking where the 4pin plug is where rear left and rear right running together i found the plug attached to the rear subframe. you could see here:

from this point the wire runs about 40cm to the front of the car and came up here:

at this point i note, that the wires runs pairwise twisted throught the car. left wheel does have pink wire twisted with light brown wire and the right wheel does have black/red (black wire with red stripe) twisted with light brown wire.

so when i lift my carpet on drivers site looked for a twisted pair of wires with black/red wire and a light brown wire i directly found it. if you look to the picture exactly you could see the pair below the big white wire.

so i looked for a spot where i could splice my wire into the wiring the easiest way and found its the easiest to unclip the bottom of the seat belt trim (this helps to get the floor more away) and splice my wire into the harness in height of rear end of the kick panel trim. at this area the harness has its highest and most flexible spot and its the easiest way to get into it.

now light is on 24/7 car is running about half power and stutters when crushing at 90 to 110

im thinking ignition coils or spark plugs 

any better ideas would be helpful 

Hello

We may or we may offer another option, we will be in touch with all who

have registered their interest.

Regards

Michael McCarthy (Director)

The second email i got from them said that they will definately be publishing, now its we MAY

Let me know what you think and if someone else or a few of you could email them about it and maybe u can get a better answer.

http://www.jpnz.co.nz/formwcs0130915/tn-contact-us.html

Thats the direct link to there contact

The other option im thinking of doing is buying a japanese manual and having it translated myself. Of course it wont be as good as a published book but that will be good enough for me.

That the MAF signal is 0 and i'm getting the same thing. Is anyone getting non-zero?

Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow.

I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . .

https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj

https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij

https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj

I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo  Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days.

In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe.

Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung)

And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little.

I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!

1> Is there a str8 bolt on dba rotor for my car (with or without modifications)

2> Can i bolt on R33 rotors and calipers (with or without modification)

3> Do i need or should i use braided lines if so is there a direct replacement that is the same ie:r33/r34

4> How much fluid does it take to fill the system from empty

Most of the info in the brake thread is for s1 cars but not much for s2 if maybe the admins could seperate the 2 sections so people with s2 cars dont have to trawl thru 3000 posts to find info that would be fantastic

one of my stageas does have a strange problem. when i press the "auto" button the window goes up, till its fully closed, ones reached it goes down around 10cm. it does this every time i press the "auto" button. when i press the switch up normal way, the window does close normal way.

did anyone heard about that problem? why does it do that?

Just a quick one I can’t find any info on. Im installing a haltech elite 2000 into my c34 stagea. It requires a signal wire from the power output on the injector relay. I’ve tried the engine bay, under the drivers kick panel and drives coin tray but have had no luck finding the relay I need. If anyone knows of the injector relay location please let me know