I recently replaced the driver side tail light on my R33 as it was damaged/leaky... still leaking somewhat annoyingly. Anyway, checked to see if all the bulbs work before fitting trims and noticed both driver side rings are much much brighter than the passenger side. I've tried using my old tail light loom and bulbs as well but still the same.

Any ideas why this has happened or how I can sort it? Thanks.

Having a look under the dash and in engine bay, whoever installed it did a shocking job, wiring looks butchered. 

I've had issues with it from day one, going off as I drive hitting bumps, car stalling due to the immobilizer etc. 

So tonight went outside only to hear a loud buzz coming from the siren itself no matter what I do I can't turn it off. (Don't have the skeleton key). My brake lights were on as well and when you try to turn ignition to on there is no power at all. I've disconnected the battery and stuffed the siren with rags until the backup battery goes flat and it shuts up. I'm not confident with electrical let alone an immobilizer to try and have a crack at it myself. I'm at a loss I need an auto elec in Melbourne who is a pro on Skylines. 

Can anyone give me a trusted contact please? 

Apologies for the long post but thought I'd share what is happening. Possibly this has happened to a member here also who can point in the right direction.

needs some info info on the 2 connectors pictured. There the 2 connectors on the r34 that sit behind coolant expansion tank and connect the chassis loom into the engine loom ideally looking for a pinout or wiring diagram for theses I’ve had a quick look through the FSM and couldn’t see anything 

Only thing I do know is the 2 larger wires are for  the abs power 

The whole process took me about 1.5 hours but this included a lot of stopping to take photos.

To complete this job, you'll need the following:

1x Phillips Head Screwdriver

1x Flat Screwdriver

1x AP348A "Nissan Double Diversity" Antenna Adaptor Lead (Make Sure this is the 348A, not the 348B lead). Autobarn had this in stock.

1x New head unit

1x Nissan 87-94 Wiring Harness (ordered through Autobarn, took 2 days to arrive)

I used the APP0121 harness because I was connecting to a stereo with an ISO connector. If you go to the Aerpro website and choose Nissan, 1989, and Patrol GQ (same harness as skyline), they have harness to fit alpine, kenwood, sony, jvc, pioneer, clarion, panasonic etc. directly to the factory plugs. If your new stereo came with a harness attached, you can use the AP7551 instead and just wire it to the one supplied with the stereo. It is a lot easier and more professional than hacking off the factory plugs and trying to solder behind the dash.

The AP348A antenna adaptor is to connect an aftermarket headunit to the factory antenna,

The AP348B antenna adaptor is to use the factory headunit with an aftermarket antenna (why would you want to do this?).

Autobarn had both in stock and I picked up the wrong one first time around. Make sure it says AP348A on the top right of the box.

Next thing you'll need is an R32 with a Factory Stereo.

First thing you need to do is remove the Ashtray.. Just open the lid and pull.

Next thing to do is to undo the two screws holding in the console.

Next step is to unclip the console trim, it has a few places it's clipped down. I found that if you get a screwdriver under the back, you can get your fingers in and lift around the rest of it.

Keep working around the clips on the whole plastic trim.

It was about here I realised the gear boot is connected to the trim, Also remove the gearknob. Mine just unscrewed, I assume they're all the same.

When the trim comes away, be careful as there are still wires connected to the Cigarette lighter socket. By the looks of mine, someone has stolen power from here for another turbo-related accessory that's mounted under the dash.

To remove these wires, just pull both plugs off (Carefully). There is a two-wire plug (+ve & earth) for the lighter and a single wire for the light in the socket.

It's important to be careful removing these wires as the single-pin one for the light is fragile and may break.

This is the back of the Lighter socket with the light pin missing.

With the trim removed, you can now undo the 4 screws holding in the DIN cage.

At this point, the trim over the Aircon controls came off, so I put it to one side while I played with the stereo.

You can now pull out the cage, be careful not to stretch the wires behind too far, the top mounts of the cage had to be carefully eased past the centre gauge cluster to avoid damaging things.

Now that the cage is free, you can remove the stereo by removing the 4 screws holding it to the cage. There is 2 on either side.

When all 4 screws are removed, the headunit should drop free of the cage.

Continued in next post...

Cheers

I want to replace my three current gauges and just have the tablet displaying all the temps and pressures, would I need to program the tablet in some way or is there an app for it and how would I wire it in so that it actually reads and displays the correct temps 
 

thanks in advance

I just changed over the sealed beam headlight I had on my bike to an LED unit [had to buy a new lens as well, but nothing wrong with my old lens] and the difference was very impressive..so thought I might do the same for the Skyline.

I also had a look on ebay and there were so many LED headlight 'globes' it was overwhelming.  Most promise a gazillion watts/lumens/K but all look pretty much the same - admittedly some have little fans, others have heatsinks on the arse end, some have rats tail H4 connections, others the spade H4 straight off the back...………..but I have no idea if these changes are better or worse.  And it looks like you can get a pair of LED's for around $30 [and certainly under $50] delivered, so cheap really.

I am still using normal halogen bulbs, with the yellowish, not so bright light and so thought I'd try an 'upgrade'.  I know others have used 'white light' globes from the likes of Phillips etc that cost more than they are worth and I'm not that keen to go down that path anyway.  I also bought a HID kit years ago...and then never ever fitted it, its still brand new in the box [probably need to sell I guess].

BTW on the operating temp, there was a great test done by a guy on a motorcycle forum where he tested a normal globe, a Halogen globe, and an LED [with little fan]  setup using an infrared temp gun and the LED came out way cooler all round.  That has to be a good thing.

And finally { I have no idea on this] is it legal??  I can't see why not if they are a direct replacement, offer the same or better light, and operate much cooler than halogens anyway.

So does anyone have any experience at LEDs on a vehicle?  What did you end up with?  And was it a better light?  

Haven't posted in a while and bit disappointed that it isn't on better terms but don't believe it is a major problem.

Just wanted to query whether anyone has had similar issue to what i am experiencing with my power windows.

Currently, Drivers side window works perfectly, no issues, goes up and down all day, however the passenger side - i had intermittent issues with window not wanting to go back up.

Window will go down fine, but will not go back up.  There were a couple of days where it would then wouldn't go back up.

Things i have tested and done:

• Changed plug from harness that connects to regulator as it was a bit corroded looking - no change
• tried another regulator, which had been tested with direct power - works perfectly - fitted it and no change
• Also then put direct power to regulator i had pulled out initially and it is fine.
• Both switches from driver side and passenger side will operate passenger window to go down, but not back up.
• Fuse is obviously okay, as nothing would work if it was blown.

My query is and next thing i am going to check is the window relay (black box in drivers door):

Can this be a possible cause of window going down but not back up and have not affected drivers window? 

Any help is much appreciated.   i just guess it would give me a bit of reassurance if someone has been in exactly the same boat and confirmed the relay was stuffed.

What would cause this?

I removed the oe cable because it didnt go tight enough around the terminal a few months ago with a cable from supercheap, dont recall the oe cable doing this. Battery's a Optima maybe 2 yrs old, i believe is healthy.

Any helps will be appreciated

Can you confirm that the R34 don"t come with an alarm ?

I have a code alarm installed; and I'm starting to remove it (because for my battery get flat in one week without used)

However previous owner made serious installation of it and not easy to removed..I will need to removed the dash to have space !!

That's why I asked you to confirmed that this module is an aftermarket one

Best regards

• The lamp is brand new
• The lamp is seated correctly in the metal frame with the clip holding it in place
• When I test with a 12V lamp circuit tester - I get no voltage whatsoever at the connector!! when I pull put the cables going to the headlight
• I've checked the 15amp fuses in the engine bay - visually they look fine, but even with a multi meter they are testing OK.
• I pulled out the relay in the engine bay and reseated it again.

Can anyone advise how to:

A - Test the relay to see if the fault is here

B - Advise what else could be causing the fault

My next problem is the adjacent lights to the projector lamps on both sides - Why would these not be working and ideas?

Thanks in advance.

I've got an HKS F-CON IS piggy back ECU that came with the car from Japan and am looking to swap it out with a Nistune ECU.

Before I go ripping stuff out, I wanted to see if anyone had any experience removing one and whether it is just as simple as unattaching everything and removing the harness / ECU and replacing it back into the stock one or if anything is rewired in any way.

Appreciate the response!

Links

All this immobilizer auto arm ,chirps & flashes is driving me batty.

 i have a r34 gt ( originally auto )

r34 gtt gearbox conversion installed

now has manual engine loom and manual gearbox loom 

car wont start obviously due to start inhibit 

can someone confirm the neutral wire is yellow/violet ? 

to solve this start inhibit im aware you need to bridge the connection

ive been told to join black/ pink stripe with red at the box all the auto stuff goes into in the black box under the battery tray with no success

another forum on here mentions black / pink to grey . also no luck

help a brother get his shit off axle stands !

Is there a way to confirm if the LED is in fact CANBUS-compatible (construction, watts, multimeter, etc)?

I know I can just use a GPS speedo, which I am using my GPS for speed on the car, but id like a better option.

Thanks.

gradually gotten worse I believe it’s electrical but I can’t put my finger on what it could be.

car will start and run for 2-3minutes no issues-backfires or missing, can rev freely like no tomorrow, then suddenly will just shut off, dash lights disappear and so does the power to the ecu. If you try and turn off and on again the dash lights come on for a split second and shut off again as if a fuse was blowing but all fuses remain fine.

the only way return power to ecu and dash lights to return is to remove the battery for 30 seconds. I have pulled all relays and tested they seem to be fine.

i ran fault codes and sometimes reads engine coolant temp but I don’t understand how that would prevent ecu repower after switching off ignition.

Any help appreciated 

I have an R34 GT Four RB25DE NEO that I recently purchased. I have purchased a C34 Stagea RS Four engine (RB25 NEO DET AWD), front diff and shafts complete with turbos, harness and ECU. 

Has anyone else done a similar conversion as I have a few questions ?

1) Any issues with adapting the DET ECU to existing harness or additional modifications to the harness required.

2) Will the diff and front shafts all bolt up fine. 

I'm picking up the engine this afternoon and just thought I would ask in advance.

Cheers

Will (Imtorqing)