Hey everyone, ever since I was around 10-12 (im 17 now) I have had me eyes set on buying an R32 GTS-T, but I was told multiple times because they're turbocharged I wouldn't be able to get one until i'm 25, but recently i've read up on a few sources that in QLD you can own and drive a turbocharged R32 GTS-T on P's because they are about 123 kW/T and the max is 125 kW/T, if this is true I also read up that you need an exemption, what would I have to do to be able to drive one? (I'm aware im prolly gonna get some comments saying its not worth it, or that i'm going to get pulled over all the time etc etc, but i honestly don't mind this is my dream car an im down to go through all that.)
Please let me know if this is the wrong area of the forum to be asking.
So this is my first ever write up and unfortunately I didn’t take very many progress pictures but I will try my best to explain the process with some picture aids 👍🏻
* plastic floor trim 96in x 6in x 5/16 (x2) you can get these at Lowe’s or Home Depot
* 3 inch L brackets (x8) Found at Lowe’s
* Self tapping screws ( to mount brackets to car)
* Hardware to mount bracket to skirt extensions ( I used black license plate hardware with plastic backings x16)
Tools: Grinder, drill, something to cut the plastic trim with.
So for a sedan with stock type M skirts the overall length is 73 inches (coupes might be different I suggest measuring before cutting). After this you want to get the skirt extension as level as you can between the front and rear low points to do this I used various objects like toolboxes and children’s books
I started with measuring out the two brackets that would be in the center of the skirt, I measured from the top of the pinch weld to the bottom of the skirt extension. If i remember correctly it was roughly 1.25-1.5 inches, always cut bigger than you think as you can grind down the bracket until you have a perfect fit.
The end result would be for the top of the bracket to be flush with the top of the pinch weld, Once you have the bracket cut to the right spot and the bottom arm of the bracket gently rests against the skirt with the various objects keeping the skirt level then you mark the hole with a sharpie and install the bracket. Once you have the two center brackets installed to the car you can drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension to hold it in place as well as Mark the holes for the permanent hardware. Now it’s time to work on the ends, these are a little more complex to line up and install as you have to more aware of the jacking locations.
For the front I had to turn my steering wheel to gain access to inside of the wheel well and feel for a flush surface to mount the bracket to, as i held the bracket against the surface and lined it up with the bottom of the skirt extension i used a sharpie to mark the hole and kinda outline the bracket so i had a general idea of where to drill once I jacked the car up and got under it. If you’re pretty coordinated you could probably just blindly full send a screw through the hole. Same concept applied to the rear. Just make sure you have plenty of space between the bracket and the jack pad as you will have to trim the inside of the skirt to have room to use the the jack pads. Once the skirt extension is mounted you can mark where you need to cut to allow a floor jack access to the pads. Once the ends are installed drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension. Or just mark the holes on the bottom with a sharpie to drill later. Now all that’s left is marking the area to cut for the jack pads, uninstall the skirt extension and make the cuts.
Unfortunately my car is too low to use the jack pads without the floor jack arm making contact with the skirt extension, to get around this I either jack up the car from the differential, use the emergency jack, or you could potential use something on the floor jack pad to help it gain elevation before the arm makes contact with the extension.
After i made the cuts i reinstalled everything with the temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension and made sure everything was still level. Once I was happy with it I uninstalled everything including the brackets and prepped for paint. At this point I drilled out the holes to accommodate the permanent hardware ( I would try and find something that has a really flush bolt head for a cleaner look)
Once the extensions and brackets are painted it’s time to install everything, make sure you remember which bracket goes where or you will be making extra adjustments and possibly drilling new holes. To install the hardware through the top you will need to install the brackets to extensions first then install the entire assembly on the car. After the brackets are installed on the extension I would suggest to install the center two brackets first and then work the ends.
I hope this write up helps anyone trying to do this, and if you have any questions send me a pm and I’ll do my best to answer them 👍🏻
I've seen quite a few different ways to mount a battery in the trunk but a lot of them involved welding or drilling holes into the chassis itself so I did a little experiment to see if there was a method that was non permanent (at least the battery mounting part).
I started by cutting out a piece of plywood using the trunk carpet as a stencil.
Then I started making a box. Since I didn't have a welder I used two different methods. For one piece I cut out a piece of metal and bent it into a U shape to make the bottom and two of the sides. Then I cut out one side and created a few 90 degree brackets and riveted them to hold one side. The other side I wanted to see if it would be easier to just make another U and rivet that on.
After the box was assembled the rest was pretty easy. I drilled holes from the box into the wood, through the carpet to where I wanted to mount it. I also put a layer of foam on the bottom of the wood and countersunk screws to keep the bottom as smooth as possible.
Test fit the battery. (Note: I had to cut the wood in half to get the whole thing into the trunk.)
Put a foam sheet at the bottom of the box to protect the bottom of the battery from the hardware sticking up.
I'll probably revisit this to make the wood a little more sturdy but here is the end product. (The extra hole was from before I put the foam in, I thought I needed it to feed the wire through lol)
Not my best work putting the box together. I'll definitely re make the box to make it more aesthetically pleasing, maybe paint it.
I previously posted about some window retainers, well things have changed. I'm after the drivers side glass and rear quarter glass. Someone decided to smash my ones.
I know the rear quarter is a bit hard to get out but if anyone has one lying around, let me know.
Due to some recent upgrades and to sell a couple of unused items, I have the following gear for sale. All items are in working order (except where noted) and were removed from a 1990 R32 GT-R making just over 300KW. But....in some cases they are 28ish years old so "caveat emptor". Please consider this if you are interested.
Collection in Melbourne.
1. R32 GT-R OEM Intercooler
Reason for sale: upgraded to a new Plazmaman cooler
2. SOLD Apexi Power FC (no hand controller)
Reason for sale: replaced with Nistuned OEM ECU
3. SOLD R32 GT-R Twin Turbo Pipe
Reason for sale: replaced with a wrinkle black painted pipe
4. SOLD R32 GT-R OEM Coilpack, igniter etc.
Reason for sale: upgraded to Alpha Omega Racing ACDelco Coil setup
5. GONE R32 GT-R Gearbox - SUIT A REBUILD
Reason for sale: replaced with a brand new R33 S3 gearbag
Note 1: I don't have any pictures of this as it is in storage.
Note 2: Early model push type box
Note 3: I believe that the gearset is OK but synchros are knackered
Note 4: It was very difficult to engage 1st gear but the clutch was also on death's door
Note 5: Did I mention that it it needs a rebuild?
Note 6: Comes with free oil
6. SOLD 6 x RC Racing Injectors
Reason for sale: replaced with new injectors to support E85
Note 1: I don't believe these are very good so "caveat emptor" as per above.
Note 2: I think they are 850cc
7. 2 x Philips Xenon D1S X-tremeVision gen2 (BNIB)
Reason for sale: I was going to use these in another car but went a different route. They are brand new and have not been removed from packaging. I think that I paid about $350.00 for these.
8. SOLD Pioneer TSWX305B Bass Reflex Subwoofer (BNIB)
Reason for sale: TBH, I don't know why I bought this. Possibly drunk. It would never have fit in anything that I owned at the time. Stock pic below
I am open to reasonable offers and will ship via E-Go. If anything is way over priced, then please don't sledge like you are David Warner (when he was allowed on the pitch); just let me know or - if you are interested - send me a link to a realistic price.
There is also a bag with some additional screws / bolts / etc. so if something appears to be missing, let me know.