The following items came off my BNR34 running twin -5’s 350 kw on pump and are all in good nick.
happy to post at buyers expense. All items located in parramatta area NSW pick up welcome.
Rb26 Tomei Type C double valve springs and retainers. I've gone to a shimless setup and the machine shop prefer to use there own custom spring setup hence the sale. Chasing $ 500 ono. these are are awesome springs they have a 242 lbs open pressure when you do the conversion from KGF and around 70 lb seat pressure. I dont think they are available anymore from tomei. the retainers are chrome molly and im told the outer springs are the same at the type B.
type c spring manual.pdf
Ross performance tuffbond metal jacket Balancer, under driven accessories 10 % from memory. I need a 1000hp balancer so this is up for sale. I got a good deal at the time direct from Ross himself he custom made it and the part number is Actually 306213 on the reciept i think he had some of the cases already laser marked and did not want me to wait so used one he already had. Its barely been used i hardly drove the car come new with abit of a clean. chasing 300 ono.
Hey everyone, ever since I was around 10-12 (im 17 now) I have had me eyes set on buying an R32 GTS-T, but I was told multiple times because they're turbocharged I wouldn't be able to get one until i'm 25, but recently i've read up on a few sources that in QLD you can own and drive a turbocharged R32 GTS-T on P's because they are about 123 kW/T and the max is 125 kW/T, if this is true I also read up that you need an exemption, what would I have to do to be able to drive one? (I'm aware im prolly gonna get some comments saying its not worth it, or that i'm going to get pulled over all the time etc etc, but i honestly don't mind this is my dream car an im down to go through all that.)
Please let me know if this is the wrong area of the forum to be asking.
Hey Ladies and Gentleman!
Been doing this for a little while on facebook/word of mouth, but thought I’s post up here too.
I can modify OEM 34 tail lights into Nismo spec or an R35 inspired halo design. For the new players, if you’re after the iconic Nismo tail lights but don’t want to spend $3000 on a second hand set, then my Custom Nismo-like tail lights are a perfect well priced answer.
I offer a Nismo conversion to your OEM set of lights that includes;
-Restoration of housings
-Custom built LED panels
-Plug and play ability into OEM harness
-Lens restoration of 20+years of minor scratches and fading
These are practically indistinguishable from genuine Nismo’s, and at $590 (excluding shipping) come in at under a 1/3 of the price of genuine Nismo’s.
For those who want something a bit extra, I also offer a R35 Halo conversion. These still retain the Nismo LED pattern for the brake lights, but uses diffusion rings to create a halo ring for parker lights. These come in at $790 (excluding shipping) to modify your OEM set. And as per our Nismo conversion, housings and lenses undergo a restoration and are fully plug and play.
We also offer an LED bootlight conversion, priced at $139 (excluding shipping) to compliment our Nismo and R35 Halo conversions. A better deal can be had for packaging them together, just ask!
Pm for any questions (text zero424 490 187, will reply much quicker) and more info 👍🏻
Stay safe everyone!
sorry the photos are all muddled up!!
So this is my first ever write up and unfortunately I didn’t take very many progress pictures but I will try my best to explain the process with some picture aids 👍🏻
* plastic floor trim 96in x 6in x 5/16 (x2) you can get these at Lowe’s or Home Depot
* 3 inch L brackets (x8) Found at Lowe’s
* Self tapping screws ( to mount brackets to car)
* Hardware to mount bracket to skirt extensions ( I used black license plate hardware with plastic backings x16)
Tools: Grinder, drill, something to cut the plastic trim with.
So for a sedan with stock type M skirts the overall length is 73 inches (coupes might be different I suggest measuring before cutting). After this you want to get the skirt extension as level as you can between the front and rear low points to do this I used various objects like toolboxes and children’s books
I started with measuring out the two brackets that would be in the center of the skirt, I measured from the top of the pinch weld to the bottom of the skirt extension. If i remember correctly it was roughly 1.25-1.5 inches, always cut bigger than you think as you can grind down the bracket until you have a perfect fit.
The end result would be for the top of the bracket to be flush with the top of the pinch weld, Once you have the bracket cut to the right spot and the bottom arm of the bracket gently rests against the skirt with the various objects keeping the skirt level then you mark the hole with a sharpie and install the bracket. Once you have the two center brackets installed to the car you can drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension to hold it in place as well as Mark the holes for the permanent hardware. Now it’s time to work on the ends, these are a little more complex to line up and install as you have to more aware of the jacking locations.
For the front I had to turn my steering wheel to gain access to inside of the wheel well and feel for a flush surface to mount the bracket to, as i held the bracket against the surface and lined it up with the bottom of the skirt extension i used a sharpie to mark the hole and kinda outline the bracket so i had a general idea of where to drill once I jacked the car up and got under it. If you’re pretty coordinated you could probably just blindly full send a screw through the hole. Same concept applied to the rear. Just make sure you have plenty of space between the bracket and the jack pad as you will have to trim the inside of the skirt to have room to use the the jack pads. Once the skirt extension is mounted you can mark where you need to cut to allow a floor jack access to the pads. Once the ends are installed drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension. Or just mark the holes on the bottom with a sharpie to drill later. Now all that’s left is marking the area to cut for the jack pads, uninstall the skirt extension and make the cuts.
Unfortunately my car is too low to use the jack pads without the floor jack arm making contact with the skirt extension, to get around this I either jack up the car from the differential, use the emergency jack, or you could potential use something on the floor jack pad to help it gain elevation before the arm makes contact with the extension.
After i made the cuts i reinstalled everything with the temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension and made sure everything was still level. Once I was happy with it I uninstalled everything including the brackets and prepped for paint. At this point I drilled out the holes to accommodate the permanent hardware ( I would try and find something that has a really flush bolt head for a cleaner look)
Once the extensions and brackets are painted it’s time to install everything, make sure you remember which bracket goes where or you will be making extra adjustments and possibly drilling new holes. To install the hardware through the top you will need to install the brackets to extensions first then install the entire assembly on the car. After the brackets are installed on the extension I would suggest to install the center two brackets first and then work the ends.
I hope this write up helps anyone trying to do this, and if you have any questions send me a pm and I’ll do my best to answer them 👍🏻
I've seen quite a few different ways to mount a battery in the trunk but a lot of them involved welding or drilling holes into the chassis itself so I did a little experiment to see if there was a method that was non permanent (at least the battery mounting part).
I started by cutting out a piece of plywood using the trunk carpet as a stencil.
Then I started making a box. Since I didn't have a welder I used two different methods. For one piece I cut out a piece of metal and bent it into a U shape to make the bottom and two of the sides. Then I cut out one side and created a few 90 degree brackets and riveted them to hold one side. The other side I wanted to see if it would be easier to just make another U and rivet that on.
After the box was assembled the rest was pretty easy. I drilled holes from the box into the wood, through the carpet to where I wanted to mount it. I also put a layer of foam on the bottom of the wood and countersunk screws to keep the bottom as smooth as possible.
Test fit the battery. (Note: I had to cut the wood in half to get the whole thing into the trunk.)
Put a foam sheet at the bottom of the box to protect the bottom of the battery from the hardware sticking up.
I'll probably revisit this to make the wood a little more sturdy but here is the end product. (The extra hole was from before I put the foam in, I thought I needed it to feed the wire through lol)
Not my best work putting the box together. I'll definitely re make the box to make it more aesthetically pleasing, maybe paint it.