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Hi everyone, Recently got handed down a 2004 Skyline 350GT Coupe. I would like to change the wheels as the previous owner installed some weird ones. The current ones are 215/45ZR18, unsure of the offset, and sit pretty deep in. Would like to increase the ground clearance slightly as well as I need to get it roadworthy standard, currently sitting at 90mm. Was thinking that maybe I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone by getting new wheels. Pictures of current wheels: https://imgur.com/bg1QMIu Any recommendations for the types of wheels I should be on the lookout for? Like the maximum and minimum offset, sidewall height, width, etc. Sorry in advance if I'm noob, I do not know much about cars other than how to change the oil, a blown tyre and brakepads....

Hey MinKer, Where abouts did you get that table from ?

Most likely your engine is toast, but also the R32 GTR has different ratios than the GTS4. In 5th it's basically the same, it's mostly 1st through 3rd that change. Stop trying to do WOT pulls before you make the engine entirely unsalvageable. Do a leakdown test and/or borescope the cylinders first. And a boost leak can overspeed a turbo. Make sure the turbo actually functions as intended.

Red Bull, if you're reading this thread, please sponsor us 🥲

Just need to find some sponsor dollars and we'd be good to go.

I reckon if we all banded together, we'll make a great race team (build, fab, tune, pit, race) all under one roof. No need for external vendors.

Anyone have the part number for this? Edit: Just seen it could be either left or right that has snapped, any tips on how to tell which?

Race mechanic ay, nice👍

I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities. It sounds f**ked.

Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.

I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.

I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly. Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything. Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile. But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests. The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed. If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down. But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k. As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth. It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it. Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though. One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad. Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there.

So what did you end up doing ? and is it still alive today ?

I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines ... zero issues, staged of course Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines.

Update time...... Been a crazy busy time and a bit of a change here. Sold my 370z Nismo as wasn't using it much and wanting a 86/brz so wife can have some fun at the track again also to help with funding the s15 build. As said last time booked a cruise to NZ. The place is great, drank lots of craft beer, eat food and visited some amazing places The plains of rohan Before we left I finally got an electrician booked and the shed now has power. Been so good being able to use it at night and not running things off a 20m extension lead. Got stuck in last weekend and reorganised it and cleaned up a lot of stuff. A few more things to tidy over time but really good to work on now. There's 13x 10a GPO, 3x 15a GPO, 4 high bay lights and 5 LED batons so will never have an issue seeing or powering tools. 437344198_7178721088892834_15829362501196293_n.mp4 Work has restarted on the s15. Removed the rear cradle so could pull the fuel tank and finish emptying the stale e85 thats now been sitting for almost 4 years 🤮 Cleaned it out and let it dry. Removed the old lift pump and have reinstalled a new lower pressure pierburg pump with all new hose and lowered the pump to get it nice and low in the sump of the tank. Also got a an old diff cover cleaned up, work has a soda blaster so made quick work of it. Going to put a 4.11 ratio diff in with a fresh rebuild thats been reshimmed for now before buying a good diff centre. And had a big change with going back to full time work. Opportunity came up to apply for a race mechanic job so applied and got it, been some big days so far but definitely enjoying it and getting to work on some cool stuff and with some great equipment. Learning a lot on proper car setup and suspension so will be valuable for the s15. I'll be part of the travelling team form next round too. This weekend will get the fuel tank and system in, need to buy a rollover valve and mount that. Get cradle in with the diff and axles then make a shopping list to buy to finish that off then start looking at cooling setup and plan intercooler pipe routing. Work will definitely be slow now on the car but will be to a higher standard. The 180sx hasn't sold so may be heading out to Morgan Park labour day weekend for a charity event to have some fun been almost 6 months since I've driven it so will be take time to get comfortable again.

I'll rent a fuel pressure tester soon and report back.

It has a separate fused 10ga wire running from the battery to the relay in the trunk. 10ga on the ground also.

Actually I did the fuel pump rewire 2 days after the issues started. Grinded away the paint and grounded it to the chassis behind the right panel in the trunk.

well, to check fuel pressure all you need is a gauge and a 8mm joiner with a gauge port in the inlet fuel line; if it stalls at idle when hot you can open the bonnet and check pressure at that time; the fuel pump is a potential cause for what you are describing but it could also be wiring to the pump getting hot. You haven't mentioned that the factory fuel flow control on the fuel pump earth is removed. So either way, it is worth running a suitably sized and fused wire from the battery to pin 30 in a new relay in the boot. Use the ECU trigger wire into the standard fuel relay to pin 86. Earth relay pin 85 and the Fuel Pump negative (nice big wire for the latter too). Run relay pin 86 pin to Fuel Pump +. That will remove multiple possible fuel pump wiring issues in a 30+ year old car

I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.

I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ? I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup

I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time. Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out.

So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before. So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running. So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it.

@niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.

Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol