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I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low

sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble

In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline. I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car. I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone. The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use. Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.

Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more. also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now. thanks for the good info

It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline? Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately. How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings.

Great discussion guys. I just have coil overs in my car right now. Ride is pretty stiff and everything feels very precise and accurate when hitting the corners. I started off with a high level and kept specimen. the only item I feel I might need to adjust is my camber with control arms or a kit as I might want to tuck in my rims more so there is no rubbing. Otherwise I have not thought too much into it as quite happy with the setup. I think the bushings are all good still. My motor is currently out now but I have got a nismo front strut bar to install. So that should help with body roll in front. added a photo of what I started with before the modding or let’s say modernization of parts started. 😂

Thank you both, much appreciated. Yes, 6k miles, not a typo lol. The underside, engine bay, engine, trunk, interior, etc., look great and super clean, has all the splash guards too. Not sure if you can expand the photos, but the dash pic shows the ODO. She looks brand new, inside and out, even has the original Nissan TV/DVD/Nav head unit; still thinks it's in Tokyo haha! I used to own a '94 MKIV Supra, sadly sold it years ago, but wow I love the Skyline so much! The R34 gets SO much attention here since they just became legal to import last year.

I'm going to have to call shenanigans on the 6000 miles. There haven't been any R34s with 10000km on the ODO since the mid 2000s. Photos of the pedal rubbers, seats, carpets, etc required to even consider the possibility. At that many miles the underside should look almost completely new. The movement of the gear stick is likely to be 100% normal. As Duncan said, the differences from an auto may be surprising. It is a mechanical thing, not an electro-hydraulic isolation device.

A proper LSD.

Timing map only tells part of the story, I've seen a few cars where the CAS has been adjusted so you might see 12 at the ECU but at the motor you could be seeing 8 kind of thing. A S15 I converted from PowerFC to Nistune had just that, CAS was turned back to have less timing than the ignition map itself lol... "Choonered".

But your running 1.6 bar of boost, is it still 12 degrees of timing at 1.6 bar of boost? Also, is there e85 fuel at the petrol stations in Dubai?

swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change

Congratulations on your find Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)

Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that. Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful

It’s 98

Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?

Stock cas right now not really in a rush to change it to the prp trigger kit unless necessary

I like the drag idea, and unfortunately I didn’t take a picture of the dyno sheet. I’ll try out my luck on the drag and see what I clock

My tuner said my timing is 12 on one bar of boost.

yeah your correct i meant it as a low reading dyno and not a “heavy dyno” that’s just the slang people said to me so I repeated it here

Stock intercooler and 0.83 housing, everybody I know with a gtr and running north of 20 psi has 8’s for plugs and for some reason my tuner refused to tune my car if I went to 8’s and said he’s not responsible for any damages that’ll happen. That freaked me out a bit and made me stay on my 7’s.

He limited my rpm because of some ptsd he had from a previous rb26 getting head starvation, and I’m located in Dubai using pump gas. We made more power running a bit more lean but for some reason my car did not like being that lean

New R34 owned here (from the US) and found a gem, '98 GTT with ~6k miles, super clean & completely stock. When shifting there's no grinding, shifts smooth, etc. The concern I have are 2 things: 1) Only in 2nd and 3rd... when maintaining a slower speed (in traffic as an example) as I let off/on the gas, the shifter will slightly move and vibrate. If the clutch is engaged, none of this happens. It's not bad, but enough to feel like something isn't necessarily right. 2) This mainly happen in 4th or 5th... the shifter slightly bounces up and down, almost like it's riding on unbalanced tires (and I do think the tires are unbalanced as I get a little of that bounce feel at higher speeds, which is maybe why it only happens in 4th/5th). Lastly, and sorry for this noob question but I want to work on this car myself, can someone teach me some on these manual transmissions? Like servicing them, best products to use, etc.; would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.

Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.