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Def happens. Happened to mine too. Have pics to prove. Super picky, I noticed the OP slowly dropping.

I've never seen this on a factory built RB26 have the screws come out, or gears break for that fact. Only once someone has touched the motor have I heard / seen it. I've seen a few factory built Rb25's shatter gears but we talking high mileage extreme beating at drift track, constant limiter for a full season. Well outside what it was built for.

Over the moon in fact. Engine is coming out to put on a new enlarged sump. I planned on putting on either a new pump(Tomei / Nitto) or billet gears. But a bit of waste of time if the crank has narrow collar. Things spiral quickly, if crank is out, new bearings ... maybe new rods and pistons ... wait just rebuild the engine... oh but I should get an N1 block .... 40k later .... haha.

I think he's just happy that the crank doesn't have to come out of the engine in order to have a good (read reliable) oil pump.

Doesn't really do any good, especially without billet gears. The oem pump is crap. If it doesn't break, the screws holding the backing plate will come loose.

Has the VCT bulge on the intake(Actually, you can see the VCT solenoid on the intake side, so looks like an RB25, but thats not a RB26 intake for sure. Wouldn't be surprised if its a rb25 that someone has just 'slapped' on a turbo on the factory ecu. If its running like a dog, then the dead giveaway is the intake.. missing the AFM.

Do a search on facebook marketplace for V35 wheels. should be able to find some cheap ones to get it on the road

Meh, just saw the Nissan badge on the plenum on the thumbnail and presumed it wasn't as nasty a fake up as the paintjob.

Just a black freddy and stock covers

It's most likely a 25, has vct and alloy cas, only 20 neo has vct but would have plastic cas

I ended up looking into this and you're absolutely right. The sport models with Syncro Rev Match(SRM) have a gear position sensor.

Thank you both for confirming! Happy I caught that before the dyno. I've put ~800kms on the new engine since, just street tuning it. Luckily it didn't skip a tooth. I only had about an hour tonight to work on it after my daughter fell asleep but I just have the pulley and lower cover left to remove. 340ftlb torqued pulley bolt came off much easier then expected.. Tensioner was new and seems fine. I had originally tightened it as per manual (2 full turns on spring then tighten). I'll give that another go hopefully tomorrow night if I have the pulley off by then.

Yes, 85mm vs 95.5mm

This is what I was thinking.

Looks to me like going over the top would be better but that would require some custom lines. How often is the wheel turned that far? I think @GTSBoy's suggestion of adding a sleeve and letting it rub seems like a valid option?

THANKS ! Sequential at times but overall Incremental is probably a better way to state it. Chassis numbers with Nissan's are like that too, jump when a change of some kind occurs. Bit of a surprise to find out that despite being a 32 RB26, it's most likely the better crank. Winner Winner.

Except for the aero/speedflow adapter option, which is essentially the same thing without the bending and flaring.

That summary is useful (if right!), I was going to say that numbers won't be sequential, they will reset when certain arbitrary changes happened in production.

You might be able to find the engine number (if about it hasn't been painted over....) the prefix should be rb25 or rb20

Totally agree here @groovezog! There's advice and there's advice, sometimes the latter doesn't take inconsideration use case, budget, time, effort etc. If we all wanted the ultimate track car with a dry sump, big displacement, we would just go to the nearest Porsche dealer and buy a 911 GT3 RS (that's if they even let you these days lol).

There is absolutely no way to tell. What we can tell you is that it is an RB. It has a single, low mounted turbo, so it would seem likely that it is an R20 or 25, but it has RB26 inlet side and valve covers. As it is clearly a frankenstein, it could be absolutely anything. It is unlikely to be good, unless the person responsible for the painting was not also responsible for the engine. That bracket is not a bracket and it is not broken. It is the top end of the suspension upright, connected to the outer end of the front upper control arm. It is your suspension. Take the wheel off and look at it.

I took the liberty of downloading the pictures:

Hot plugs not being a good idea in a massively boosted engine?

Put some more sleeve/hose over the top of the brake line for protection and let it rub? Make a plastic or metal nozzle to provide the last little bit of length of duct. The nozzle made to clear the brake line, the cooling air hose shortened to keep it away from the brake line? Make a short hard line to move the end of the brake hose away? (by far the best of the easy options).

I'm not the sort of person to click on a random link to something called files.fm/nrn9something something somehting