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HIlarious misfortunes aside, it's obviously not been all bad. Occasionally the car runs, and joyous occasions do actually occur! Uhhhh..... Greg... your car is blowing smoke at the track..... Catch can was full, problem went away.... and lets be honest, the IACV motor died (they die, pinning open) and I had a misfire problem meaning I had to run 9psi of boost maximum but look honestly at this stage of my car ownership I was at the track having fun and I put them firmly in to the WIN category! I put this photo in, my mental note thinking this was a time we all went out cruising the Great Ocean road and staying a few days in Warnambool..... only to be confronted by the fact I didn't bring the R34 with us on this trip because it was broken/off the road/conversion going on/something. Which my mind totally had no recollection of. This is probably pretty good allegory of my R34 ownership..Also MX5 Turbos are just awesome, no she doesn't let me mod it more than it currently is. I swear we did do the great alpine road with the Skyline, as I distinctly being unable to really spin the rears at the top of Hotham through the very high country noting it made suprisingly big difference, and following supercharged cars from 1979 with no cat generates one hell of a headache. Best track mod is definitely this though!! Yes, she is cooking sausages at the track day for everyone because "The canteen is no good, and boys don't eat they get up early, grab a coffee at 4am out the door and run on adrenaline and caffiene the whole day and that's no good!! People need food so they can stay focused and have fun on the track!!" My best drag run ever was an 11.9 with the old setup, which just left a ton of everything on the table, and that 11.9 was at like 103mph because an intercooler came off at about half track. And after every failed run (which was every run, due to intercooler pipes) a certain someone was under the car fixing it, putting hose clamps back together and generally providing relentless encouragement while I yarned on chatting to other random people at heatcote. I think most people would have happily struggled to get into the 11's but had the pitlane support than run a 10 and be there on their own, so as many things that have gone wrong, I know some really good people to make it all worth it. After all, all car stories are really just people stories. In any case the car has gone from: This: To this: (this made 430kw through an auto in this setup!) To.... this: To... this!: Actual cert number and VASS number removed for obbious reasons but ye. At some point I will write up (with pictures) the very long process in the above!

Sell your R34 and buy Dose's R33

This head needs to know there is fuel nearby whooshing through the fuel rail on its way back to the tank, so it can be comforted by knowing money has been spent. ??

We get it, you vape.

When you finish the oil control thread you will come to the realisation that the rear oil drain is no such thing and there are better ways to do it. This involves Running a decent sized hose from the top of the sump (fresh hole + fitting) to the cam covers. The main thing about doing ANYTHING about oil drains is that it is not so much places for the oil to go down that you are creating, as much as places for the crankcase gases to come up. When the gases are coming up and the oil is trying to go down, through the same smallish holes (in the block) then the oil loses and gets blown up. If you increase the area available for the gases, the velocities decrease and the oil has a chance to go down where it is supposed to. So it is actually easier and better to put in hoses to take care of the gas than it is to try to squeeze oil back in through a disused turbo oil drain.

Woooosh. It is the button that notifies you that the buttons on the wheel to change gear are activated. The button that controls this function is next to the shifter.

Also, if the engine is super new, give the rings some time to bed in before being too worried. Make sure you run it pretty hard rather than just idling or driving at low load. One quick fix that will work better than a dipstick vent is to vent via the oil cap. Just put on a alloy cap and weld a large dash fitting on

Track alignment on a wet skid pan, just wants to grip until you give it some limiter lol.

2 of the big ones.

Needs more NOS.

Hello and thank you. As the title states I may be new but my questions wont be. So for the next good chunk expect me in the shadows lurking trying to obtain as much knowledge as possible before i open my stupid mouth. What bring me here is the desire for knowledge I'm in the process of building a s13 coupe from the ground up and I've veered into the desire of putting an RB in as my power source. The build is not for big power but massive fun. Not for sliding or smoking tire but for breaking necks and hugging corners( I know I know an sr would be better weight distribution for handling) but coming from being raised with and loving the s30 chasis I figured I might as well build a modern twist with my personal touch . I've been raised with a solid motto of" if it gets touched it gets refurbished or replaced " and "every build should follow the progression of suspension, safety, plumbing, engine, drivetrain, interior, exterior" and that's how I've attacked every build I've embarked upon.

I think they are good motors, it's just the case of blood from a stone. Any motor being asked to go 200-300% of what it left the factory with is, beyond any kind of reasonable expectation. A RB25DET making 260rwkw with all the right mods for track work and breathing would make for a shitty dyno graph on the internet, but last way, way, way longer, and that's still asking 170% of what it left the factory with!

If it is, you now need an exorcism performed on your car and anyone that has gone near that alternator. The Voodoo is strong, lol.

Next racewars.

RB's have been done already. Have you considered a Hartley V12 (based on the Toyota Century V12)

Yes to Samsonas, and also mechanical fuel pump. Running electric fuel pumps isn't Don Mega in 2020 anymore. The game has changed, 2020 is about 1000+ up, Samsomas sequentials, mechanical fuel pumps and MoTec M1

Good luck, very interested to see how it goes and if it ends up much different to the other quite smart folks who have invested a lot of time and money in trying to make stock location twins work well at higher power levels - I have seen and been involved with enough projects to know that just because no one has "cracked the code" doesn't mean that someone won't come up with a way around it, and it'd be pretty cool to see some cunning solution which works well so please to update on the approach and the results. No matter what the outcome I can't see how it wouldn't teach someone something

It's actually very simple. Start with something that Hypergear says about one of his larger single turbos for RBs. It can be installed as internal or external wastegate. if internal, it can be low mounted off the stock manifold. It will make ~100kW more when high mounted with external gate than low internal. It's all about the pipework, the crowding, the compromises and the big wastegate. Anything you try to jam into the spot where the factory twins live is going to be compromised by the the tight confines.

Awesome to catch up! Cheers for organising, looking forward to the next event/cruise

1 x DW340 supports 312 rwkw on e85 for me through stock hard lines, stock rail, stock fpr. Anyway, Samsonas. Do it bro.

Paint in what ever colour you want bro! who cares what people think your the one that forked out the cash to buy the car. these cars were designed to be enjoyed by there owner end of story. If you got 1000kw or gold bay or stock engine who cares, if you can head down the track or road with huge smile on your face the cars doing what its suppost to. I think rose gold would be wild, full send.

I haven't bothered pulling the intake off a de neo but as I said I thought they mustn't be much different with so many turbo intakes on de's. You can correct people without saying they're making bullshit statements & trying to make an argument when you added nothing. So there's no turbo intakes on de's? That's a bullshit statement? This is why so many that used to comment on SAU have gone

stranger2020 is a spamming arsehole. Post reported.

Nice colour. I hope you kept those LMGT2s

Best Mod Ever!

Agreed, nothing is really required for heavy foot street use. Oil problems start to show at sustained high revs (where you end up with excess oil in the head) and sustained high gs (where the oil in the sump moves away from the pick up). Put both together like lapping a track and you can get problems. Yep, since it's apart, that is exactly what I would do, plus adding in sump baffles for the standard sump. Minor change but can help a little for little cost.

How many passes have you done? Don't be surprised if seat time alone does the trick. It looks not only the 60 is a bit off so is the 1/8. Which points more to seat time, tyres won't help there.

You have to be careful with N1 pumps. They used to be a good thing. Then there was a period of time where they were apparently not from the original factory/stock and there were a lot of failures. I'm not sure where they are at right now. The 25Neo oil pump is an original N1.

Actually just found this. Thinking I'll get the N1 pump and recommended block/restrictors. Will this be enough for road use or should I do one of the many other recommded mods? Thanks

@Moshpit95 thanks man! ive always loved 33s. I originally wanted a GTR but couldn’t ship it to the US for the 25 yr rule when I was living in England. But yes majority of the people where I moved has GTRs about two people have Gtsts 😁 #thepoormansskyline as I was told😂

nice mate! welcome aboard!

Seriously, it doesn't have to be expensive to get the oil control stuff handled. But you do need to get the head off and you do need to cut a hole in the sump. So you do need to put in work. Fixing the oil pump drive issue &/or upgrading the pump is not cheap, but that's not oil control. That's oil supply. As I said, read the oil thread. We bashed through all the myths and bullshit and came up with a good recipe to follow. But there is a lot of stuff in there, so there is little option but to wade through the whole lot and let the consensus wash over you towards the end.

Yes you're right Ben, that 3 port setup is a bit WTF. It does say for obtaining max boost for 3 port, so I can only assume you'd use this method with a 3 port solenoid and a weak gate spring, but I still don't like the look of that method. I wouldn't do it and can't say I've seen that before. Common method for above would use a 4 port like this: More common method for 3 port is like this, he should just do it this way. At least it will work properly.. (I've always used this method for single turbo / external gate)

You don't need to know anything about the diameter of the steering rack. Just buy bushes to suit your car. Presto. Done.

I heard that Ichiban are decent. Never used them so take that with a grain of salt.

As BK says, there are better cams available. Read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread. I am serious. Who knows? Depends on what your head and block look like, yeah? You don't really need one, but seeing as you're intent on using an aftermarket rail, you might as well. But you don't really need the rail either. New timing belt, water pump are a good idea. Big 100cell cat. Everything else seems fine.

I think pre 2011 maybe 2010 had some sort of gearbox issue. If its an 09 or early 10 you'd want to know that has been rectified. I assume if you google about it, there should be lots of info as well as merica sue someone, class action, save the kids type posts. If i was you id be stretching as far as i could to get the newest model with the lowest km as possible. A bloke i worked with had an 09 and its not a case of if but when the gearbox plays up. His went with under 20k km on the clock. He then bought a 12 and now has an 18, both had no issues.

Well here we go again, time to FINALLY as promised start the GODZILR build thread that has been in progress, or shall we say "development hell" for 13 years now - THE MONEY PIT IS HERE ! For more info from the past and the bullshit I've been through with this car, start here Which led to this Then this happened.... The car has been a major pain in the arse for years. After many different setups and rebuilds, I've considered everything from selling it to burning it ! (Well I almost really did as above....). But I didn't. I decided if I'm going to keep it I may aswell go all the way with it, and get it to what I would consider to be a very well rounded street / drag / track setup. Maybe there is light at the end of the tunnel now, as it is finally properly alive and running in the new engine as we speak. I have now done 20km and counting....

But look at the peak gain! And how much cleaner the engine bay looks.

Just refurbish. All aftermarket shifters are largely aimed at the wank factor.

It's not the the thrashing itself that matters. It's the mental capacity of the thrasher that is important.

Updated mods: Precison 6466 Gen 2 1.01ar Ats triple plate carbon clutch Custom 1.5in runner manifold with billet merge 1650cc bosch injectors Taarks surge tank with twin walbro 460lph Twin 40mm turbosmart gen v wastegates Results: 502kw on 100 octane 24psi 620kw on E85 on 31psi

Did Sandown on Sunday. Engine didn't blow up. Utterly destroyed brakes and drove home metal on metal style yet again. 8/10 would recommend.

3x rb26dett blocks u50’s $500 each R32/r33 gtr gearbox $900 Vg30dett manual box $500 R31 manual box $250 Rb30e $500 very clean inside Rb25/30det $2000 3x Rb30e heads $50 each R33 auto box $100

Next car to setup and tune, 1JZ stock bottom with ARP studs, stock cams, and a GTX3076R Gen 2. Will be running flex fuel, and piles of boost. Customer wants 300kW+ on 98RON and 400kW+ on E85. I did say to him you're running stock rod bolts, so we might have not overly push the setup. But let's see, starting the setup today - hope his wiring dude connected everything up properly, if not there's going to be 6 hours of swearing ahead.

Do you have a link?

well f**k me panasports sold

Yeah you can take that comment about ACDC to the bank. Chart below may help also. Cam timing graph.pdf

however going by this table, front offset could be different...?

Hello again. I looked all over and I couldn't find no way of changing it from call audio to music audio. Under audio settings I didn't find no bluetooth option. Only under the phone settings. Maybe my version doesn't have bluetooth for music. [emoji19] if anyone knows at least I will know. I tried the Google translate. Worked