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  1. 11 points
    I attacked the rust then covered with some kill rust before hitting the whole bay with Primer gave the whole thing a rub down and clean before laying down the first layer of base coat. i practiced first on the Cam covers which accepted the black base nicely. Moved onto the bay when this happened... whole bay was cleaned with soap then rinsed off and wiped down with wax/grease remover and thoroughly dried before painting. Unfortunately i managed to get a light coating over the whole bay and had just completed my first wet coat before it started to show. Talking to a painter i knew. Apparently the factory bay paint is acrylic and can be a bit touchy with high solvent content acrylic paints. My base was 2:1 paint:thinners. as i was set up and i the cam covers black had gone on fine i continued the process as i only had a short window to get all coats on for it to work properly as for the Bay this mean going back to square 1 (or -1 as the case may be). The sizzled paint was not easy to get off and had eaten its way down a few layers. The whole process of taking back the paint set me back about 2 days. The black base was much harder to sand that the factory paint had been. Etch primered and the reprimed with a paint that i trusted. First layer of paint (base coat black) Intercoat of Clear base mixed with a powder Pink/Purple pearl pearl over black 2k Clear some close ups for my first time painting with pearl in a 3 layer job im pretty proud of what i managed to accomplish! the photos simply do not do the paint justice
  2. 9 points
    Hello, My name is Eddy and i’m from the netherlands! I’m sorry for my english, it’s not the very best[emoji85] Name : Eddy Country : netherlands Age : 26 Car : R34 GT-R omori R-tune #001 Since i was a little kid, i had 1 dream! A dream to build the skyline form 2 fast 2 furious, and yes i buld my own version of it when i was 19 years old! But first when i was 18, i bought a R32 GTS-T. After 4 months i sold that car an bought myself a R34 GT-T. It was a R34 GTT automatic (tip tronic), and it was complete stock. I bought a GTR conversion kit, and build it to a GTR replica! After that it got a respray and i finished it with the livery of the R34 GTR of paul walker in 2 fast 2 furious. Also the striping was painted, not stickers. I had that car for 5 years, i did a automatic to manual conversion, i swapped a RB26DETT, it was a great car and the new owner loves it! After that 5 years, i sold the car and bought my first GTR. A R34 GT-R V-spec, with a complete Z-tune body! Red leather interior, Nür spec RB26 engine etc etc. The car was sonic silver, but @ the vin plate it was the color code LV4 ( midnight purple ll ). I wanted to let it respray back to that color, but when we checked the car what we needed to do, we saw that the car has had a lot of damage. So i parted it out and sold it. The same day i bought my new love! The R34 GT-R Nismo omori R-tune #001 ( 1 of the 3 concept cars ), it is a very rare car and i love it so mutch! This is the Nr. 1 of the 3 concept cars that nismo build in the factory, and tested them in 2003 on the nurburgring (germany) with the Z-tune concept car. I have all pictures of it and it’s amazing to see. Also of the build in the factory. There are only 2 R-tune concept cars left, 1 is crashed[emoji22] But when i bought this car, te previous owner told me that the owner of the 2nd R-tune lives in australia and his name is justin beeche. Maby someone know him? I can tell a lot of my passion of skyline’s and my R34, but pictures are better then talk a lot i think?[emoji57] I hope you like it, here are some pictures. Greets eddy
  3. 9 points
    Hi All, Thought I would share my GTR as I get sent a lot of PM's with questions etc. happy to help anyone out, I'm new to GTR scene but not RB's having owned some big power RB30 VL's in my life, rwally enjoying the change but the do hurt the back pocket lol! Lot people will probably know this GTR plates " HANIBL " has been on the Motive DVD GTR vids etc, was originally built by Team Karam with a straight 26 setup and then the owner went all out which when I was lucky enough to scoop it up when he sold it on a spare of the moment decision just after it was put back on the road with the new setup. Quick run down on the car: 1992 GTR fully resprayed in original silver by 2SUS RD diesel block, half grout, Nitto 3.2 stroker kit, full CNC 26 head with head sealing rings, billet plazmaman 12 injector inlet, 6 boost manifold with precision 8285 ( recent addition bought it with a 7675 ) 290 kelford cams, Elite 2000 ecu, mechanical fuel pump, external wet sump oil pump, Al's Raceglides AWD turbo 400, Quaife front diff, billet axles, full IHRA spec chromoly cage list goes on. Car made 1183hp @ 45psi as a manual, car is currently being tuned by Ben D"Annello in Melbourne after some updates, we found the old cooler was no good so since upgraded to a plazmaman pro series 100mm cooler with immediate results, now just upgraded some wiring etc. and hoping to finish off the tune in the coming weeks, currently on 38psi has made 1050hp or 778rwkw thru the auto but some trigger miss count issues have held us back from turning it up or adding the timing it wants hence the wiring upgrades. My aim for the car is just to run an 8 sec pass, everyone will say it will do it easy but I have had the cars in the past to do it and one way or another it just hasn't come together, so fingers crossed it will come together this time around, the car has no expense spared on it, I'm very fussy so plenty left to do but that's the enjoyment of owning a car. Quick video and pics attached hope you enjoy. HANIBL 38psi 8285.MOV
  4. 8 points
    I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it In general tuning I think a fair bit gets covered up by people running "rich" mixtures, I actually think a lot of the target AFRs people tend to run with modded RBs (and other motors) are actually masking/to mask these trims from front to back with some types of plenums (and other parts sometimes) - albeit not necessarily deliberately, and often as a roll on from when people tuned on pump gas. What would happen is people would tune and get knock or just from experiences of damaging motors in the past they'd run to something like 11.5 or richer (* results may very, just picking a number people can associate with to make a point), when in fact if you had individual lambda you may actually find that in some cases some cylinders could have been easily as much as 5%+ leaner than the mean. The trick here is that for that to happen, that cylinder is actually seeing 5+% more air - so while people often see it as "it runs lean"... what that actually means is it is getting a significant amount more airflow, so the timing is also going to be more aggressive for that cylinder, and the power level is also going to be 5%+ higher than the "average". Lets say that such a motor is tuned on 24psi, and the target AFR is a 11.5:1 - then this is what effectively happens when one cylinder is getting 5% more air than the rest: - It's own AFR is 12.08:1 - It's "load" is arguably pretty similar to if it was running ~26psi, but it's receiving the same timing as the rest of the cylinders - If the dyno is showing 400wkw, that cylinder could be developing enough power to contribute to making 420kw+ @ wheels while being tuned aggressively (compared to the rest) to do so This is a car which would probably be pretty reliable, and potentially actually be not a wildly rare outcome... it's just that ignorance is bliss. Stuff like this is why it irks me when you get people on the internet criticising a dyno plot's AFR trace etc when they have no idea what the tuner has done, what they are responding to etc - sometimes the tuner has covered a LOT more than some dude on the internet who knows some rules of thumb could even conceive of by just glancing at the dyno plot. Sadly, sometimes a lot worse can also be true. It is technically correct that "these cut and shut plenums work" however, as air is getting to the engine. That's what they're there to do and they'd have to be a pretty big fail to not succeed at that task. Essentially they just have to seal and let air to the right place, there is ALWAYS going to be turbulance and weird acoustic affects meaning that fill isn't working exactly as you'd expect it. Engines don't run in a beautiful constant flow way, but a better design will minimize the clutter - a crappy design / cut and shut will not. At the end of the day if you have a poor design then your engine will not be as reliable or perform as well as it could as there will be situations where the moving parts attached to one cylinder are doing much more work than the moving parts for another and the harder your motor is working the more strain your motor is under for no gain than it needs to be as in effect - your motor is only going to last as long as the bit under the most strain can handle. If all 6 cylinders were doing withing .5% of the one working the hardest then you have the potential to make quite lot more power with much more response etc and no more strain on a single point than one with a shitty plenum. Same goes for manifolding etc as well, of course. It could even be an argument against low mount twins where both turbos clearly don't get perfectly identical inlets and exhaust paths - given the turbines have a direct influence on engine flow and they work independent to each other, I do wonder how much that influences things when driven hard... Anyway. Buy good parts, use a good tuner, get good results
  5. 8 points
    It's smoother than the 8374. The 8374 felt snappier when it came on. This isn't. Low down there is noticeable lag compared to 8374 but once IMO it's perfectly acceptable to drive around town once ur up in the red range. My short ratio getrag also helps with drive ability. Top end is mental. Even as the driver I felt a little scared as too how quickly it picked up speed. 5500 to 8500 is where it all happens on 2.6 so a stroker and 9k rev limit with this turbo would make for an incredible street car.
  6. 7 points
  7. 7 points
    Picked it up and drive it home in muggy 37 degree weather. Initial impression. It's def lazier than the 8374 down low. You can notice the small lack of pick up and low down but transient response and pick up from say 3.5k and up is very similar to the 8374. Couldn't really give it the beans on such a hot day. I put my foot down once in 2nd and it did take a while to come on song and was only hitting 31psi due to weather. Haven't really felt new top end grunt. Will take it out on a cooler night to really test it but at this stage, on a mild 2.6, the 8374 is a better option for a street car. TBC.
  8. 7 points
    580kw @ 35 psi at 5,500RPM - 119,000 RPM turbine speed. hahahahahahaha f**k it im leaving it there....
  9. 7 points
  10. 7 points
  11. 6 points
  12. 6 points
    Time management course cancelled Was deemed by management to be a waste of time Not a joke
  13. 6 points
    So tuning is finally complete!! It's now making 364rwkw (23psi) on pump 98 and 472rwkw on E85 (30psi) and rev limit has been upped to 8,500rpm. Kept it relatively safe because I care about the motor!. Will take it down to the strip and just do a mph run to see what it's capable of soon.
  14. 6 points
    https://au.finance.yahoo.com/news/drove-52-000-kia-stinger-074055280.html Can't help thinking it could be a new Skyline [R32/33/34] equivalent.....its not an R35, but is wwwaaayyy more affordable.
  15. 6 points
    Car is now on carsales as I begin to make a more conscious effort to sell it to pursue some other things. Offers welcome. Some new photos taken recently so I have something to frame and look at on those cold winter nights...
  16. 6 points
    My v spec LeMans limited
  17. 5 points
    I hereby declare the SAU.com.au dick measuring competition over!
  18. 5 points
    And you know everything I assume, including how to hack and tune a factory Ecu? Firstly I'm running a Billet Intense RS Turbo and secondly it's safe on 19psi as my AFR doesn't go above. 93v at WOT. And it's "you're" by the way.
  19. 5 points
    So I haven't updated this in a while because no time/lazy. A lot has happened in the past month and I finally accumulated the parts I needed to get things moving. So here's a pic as it tells a 1000 words. Expecting it to be tuned within the next 2 days on 98 and E85. Parts added are: (1.2mm Tomei headgasket is already done) Kelford 272 degree cams Kelford Beehive valve springs and Ti retainers Tomei cam gears ARP2000 headstuds Plazmaman fuel rail ID 1700cc Injectors FPG twin 460 walbro in-tank setup HKS T51R SPL BB HKS 60mm GTII wastegate 4inch from the dump pipe down to an ARC 4inch titanium exhaust
  20. 5 points
    Picked these up for a steal from an R34 GTT wreck and painted them up. So much better than the shit that was on it. They just fit behind the 19s
  21. 5 points
    Didn't Bobby with the "Skola tune" start that 1? That event was more top secret than his dynosheet! 😂
  22. 5 points
    I picked up some parts including a new 10cm turbine housing to give the little TD05H-18g a bit more room up the top, Gate timing belt and GMB water pump along with associated seals. cam seals and front main seal in. The front main seal was a pain for some reason and when pushing it in the retaining spring would pop out. managed to get around this by cutting up an old rattlecan lid to made a guide tube. unfortunately the water pump was incorrect. Even though i specified RB25DET neo R34 on ordering. i got a WP898 which is for RB30, RB20 and early RB26 from what i have found. Note the slotted vs single hole. some people have said they left out the top mounting bolt with no issues but im not about that. thankfully i contacted the company and they have already sent out the correct pump at no charge. 8cm vs 10cm turbine housings 10cm installed also gave the compressor housing a scrub up while it was off
  23. 4 points
    Received a package from platnium racing. Definitely a quality piece of gear. Everything packaged really well and fits like a glove. I removed the stock r35 coil stalks and fitted the prp ones. Bracket and loom are mint. Genuine nissan coils supplied eith kit also. Kit fits under the cover but i think i might leave it off!!
  24. 4 points
  25. 4 points
    HOT NEWS https://autoaction.com.au/2018/02/09/track-perth-unveiled-wa
  26. 4 points
    OK I take that back. The 9180 is awesome!
  27. 4 points
    Keys were handed to a mate whilst it was in New Delhi. Safe to say the clutch, gearbox and engine seem to be working well.
  28. 4 points
    We gave her a damn good spit and polish today. Came up trumps. Showed jack how to use autosol to my advantage. Good lad.;-)
  29. 4 points
    9180 is on New plugs and oil Comp test showest 150+ psi across all six Going to the tuner tomorrow/sat Will update next week on result
  30. 4 points
    best exhausts, 3.5" pipe work into 2.5" back to 3.5" lololol and GT-RS turbos, best.
  31. 4 points
  32. 4 points
    imma just leave this here
  33. 4 points
  34. 3 points
    A master negotiator swoops in
  35. 3 points
    I was going to say....why bugger about with the brand name Jap cams when Kelford and even Camtech have excellent choices and local support?
  36. 3 points
    Kevin you can stop being a smart Cünt. We're talking about a flow restrictor The restrictor is there to restrict flow. Not keep bubbles dissolved. What do you think happens once the oil has passed through the orifice into the head galleries. Feel free to publish an SAE paper about burn4005 being a wanker.
  37. 3 points
    Quick update - Apparently the engine is back from the machine shop and will begin assembly soon i believe... Whilst the car has been off the track i have had the time to do a lot of maintenance which has been much needed! Front Pads and new rotor rings. New steering rack bushes Front wheel bearings Front Kingpin bearings (Front right was shot causing tyre failures) New clutch slave and braided line Clutch freshened up MCA Red suspension serviced and modified New injectors and fuel pumps (Just changing for safety) New Hankook Z221 rubber on all 4 corners Fresh Motul oils in gearbox and diff This list will keep getting longer but it makes sense to get it all done while i have it apart as we plan on doing more track days than ever over the next few years! We will be doing as many events as we can afford! Ill take some pics and update when i get time!
  38. 3 points
    In your case its probably just a misfire as you forgot to plug in an injector
  39. 3 points
    Cars back from C-Red, it was Dyno'd and retuned all day. Running incredibly smooth now. Made exactly what we guessed it would make. Everything is good.
  40. 3 points
    I approve of the NA R32, especially with the RB25. I enjoyed mine for about 10 years both on the track, and daily driving. There's more to owning a car than just having lots of power. They still handle well, are fairly reliable, look great, are becoming more desirable but less common and have lots of character. Good luck.
  41. 3 points
    Few spots left for members and friends who want to learn about suspension and check out the wall of wheels. RSVP: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1SRrH9AniwMxA5C6GwpPnrUX4F7BJz8WDNzAf3olVls0
  42. 3 points
    My first motor died after about 4 years with varying levels of power from 450kw to 550kw. It died a sad death when it dropped a valve guide (it had actually dropped 11 of them but the others had shot out the exhaust). Bottom end was still mint when it came out. New motor has been going a few years with 520-567kw with a few different cam combos. Seems to love life and gets driven fairly hard at the track a lot and 1000m drags. - power on workshop dyno (lets be honest these do differ quite a lot) 567kw on a dynapack hub dyno - turbo with rear housing and psi Precision 6262 0.84 with just over 30psi - basic engine mods mild ported head and smallish cams - fuel United E85
  43. 3 points
  44. 3 points
    Hi all drained as F baby keeps me busy going to work is like a holiday. Almost no sau or facebook but managed to find this kebabs & cars V2.0 24/02/18 shannons meet from 7pm 1500 Albany hwy beckenham
  45. 3 points
    R34 circle jerk. Who's bringing the Sao's?
  46. 3 points
    HKS 2.8 Precision 6466 Holinger Sequential E85 Etc basic street car stuff
  47. 3 points
    So they definitely (in my case anyway) don't bolt straight into stock housing. There is 3 places that need clearancing, 2 for the selector forks and 1 for 6th gear. In saying that, a die grinder and flapper wheel makes it reasonably easy and not too time consuming.
  48. 3 points
    Adjust coilovers to a practical height.
  49. 3 points
    Australia Day ain't right when the bogan tradies next to you are discussing which GPUs are the best for mining crypto
  50. 3 points
    So it has been a while since I've updated this and there has been a lot happen since the last update... So here goes! Bought an ARC intercooler, Ikeya Rear LCA's and ARC (Auto Refine Company) fully adjustable sway bars You can see the difference to stock sway bars here.. These made a world of difference to the handling. (I probably should've done them sooner) Fitted them along with the Ikeya rear LCA's. Fitted the ARC Intercooler as the stock one was looking worse for wear, and I actually picked up throttle response as a result!! Now the front end looks so much cleaner! Then we had an event to promote Gran Turismo Sport at World Time Attack and I had the privilege to be on track with many other great cars! Also managed to snap a shot of Keiichi Tsuchiya with my car after I got to drive on track with him!
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