Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    So the search for a gearbox began where all searches begin, gumtree.com.au or FB Marketplace. I also figured i'd need a clutch, and one of the things all Commodore people constantly raved about was a remote clutch bleeder. I had already managed to find myself a starter motor re locator kit from mal wood automotive. I don't know if this existed on the Berzerk R32 that got LS swapped here years ago, because they went about it by changing the steering rack to a VL non powered one instead. It turns out before you make decisions on things... there's a lot... LOT of options to choose from, but I decided a) I want the car to be legal b) I want the car engineered by VASS c) I want the car to be dailyable, so that meant retaining power steering, and retaining aircon, as well as the heater. d) I wanted all the gauges to operate as factory This sounds like a bit of a tall order, but this is where my bad luck actually turned around. LS's often have standalone looms, so you can run the thing on an engine stand quite easily. R34's quite easily run standalone engine ECU's and don't suddenly have problems with the dash doing weird shit, speedos not working.. so my line of thinking was "this should work", joys of a basic car. I found a gearbox for sale eventually that didn't look like it'd been outside for 200 years, and found someone who was "90%" of the way through their LS conversion into Skyline build themselves, but wanted to sell up to conslidate cars/put money into business etc. Again i thought : .. maybe I should walk away, like this guy is currently trying to. But no, am stupid. In the end, I bought: 1x T56 Gearbox 1x Heavy Duty clutch for above gearbox Both Cross members, because the seller also sent me photos of a stock GM sump clearing the skyline crossmember, whereas the motor I had... definitely, de finitely hit (to the point we had pulled it off already to start notching it). 1x Standalone loom 1x "Later' ls1 ECU (needed to run Flex fuel) 1x Set of radiator hoses modified by seller to fit stock locations on a skyline (yay) 1x Clutch bleeder relocation kit. Pretty much everything I needed except manifolds and a tailshaft. The manifolds had made custom, I got a photo of them, but they had already been sold. 1x Rip Shifter 1x Shifter extension to mount up with the standard hole in a R33/R34. I also had to buy another engine, to get everything in the above package. I had originally planned on just sticking with a stock 220 or whatever rwkw a LS1 makes, and iron out all of the infinite bugs i was expecting to begin with and go and rebuild/try and make some power later, but this "forced" my hand. The engine that came with the above had a fresh rebuild with all receipts, a VCM714 cam (232/234 .600 lift), LS7 Lifters, double manley cam springs, double timing chain, 25% underdriven balancer, ARP fastners throughout, and the heads had been skimmed for more compression. New bearings, freshly machined, suitable oil pump, aftermarket baffling for the new sump, etc, and of course, all of the gaskets, seals and such were brand new and just fitted, which eliminated my shopping cart to replace all of those old things on the previous, now-spare motor. And the new one was drive by cable too, which was nice. He had initially built the thing to go and drift, so had done all the needed things for this to sustain some pretty sustained "high" RPM. Just so happens for me, the parts he selected were basically identical to what I was planning to do.. "one day".. It was at this point that family and friends switched from "This car is a curse" to "This is a good idea, see, the car wants to live, the universe agrees!"
  2. 4 points
    Thanks mate. Yeah still on factory rear end. Have got a Nismo 1.5 way in there with 3.69 gears now. Havent done a hit with the new setup but previous setup I did a 1.642. I'm sure with the new setup I'll definitely break one at the strip. But for street stuff its been fine so far. Got the catch can welded up today. Fits in there nicely 😎 Tomorrow I've gotta make up some brackets to hold it in place and pick up some fittings and also a weld on drain and get her finished up. Should look pretty hectic with 5 lines coming to it 😂 I'll get it powdercoated once its all done as well to match the plenum and turbo. Also got new stickers yesterday so wacked one on to see how she looks. Came up alright. If I get some time tomorrow we'll slap the other side on too. Box should be finished later this week, hopefully have some time over the weekend and we'll get her back in and running.
  3. 4 points
    Put another coat over the shell and rubbed it back again, the shell is now rapped up and need to start on the doors. Also got the motor back from JPC and started fitting the manifold, sump etc. The motor has, CP pistions 9.0:1, Spool I beam rods, Spool oil pump gears in N1 housing, APR head studs and main studs, Tomei cam gears, Nitto head gasket, Ross balancer. The head has only had new valve spring, will be running the standard cams as I need to pass a full IMR240 emissions test. Also had to finish off making the oil pick up.
  4. 4 points
    MX5's have issues of "What do I need to do, my car is working, there's nothing to fix" and "I don't have a lot of power". The stock SE one can do 190rwkw on the OEM turbo and Brendan Beavis has clearly shown its reliable in doing more track days than the entire of SAU combined, and being faster than 99.9% of people in them. GF still won't let me track her MX5 yet, though. So I needed another plan. I actually did make a note in a spreadsheet as to how much this conversion cost, how much I bought things for (and how much I sold RB bits for!, and a timeline!) and quickly realised that the big killer in all these builds is the friends you make along the way. By this, the level of 'while we're there....' is extreme to the nth degree. With the engine in the car, we needed headers. This wasn't a great deal of space, and this is with everything removed/relocated as best as we possibly could. However, the block hugger manifolds I bought were approximately this flat. They also didn't fit, pointing directly to the engine mount... ^--- above picture with the other side of the manifold touching the bar.. Both side like this. The supplier replaced both of them without complaint. Getting my money back instead of a store creidit though.. took many many hours of waiting in the store for the manager to get back from wherever he was, though.. At this point we had also removed the sump, because we were going to have to notch it in order to reach the crossmember. So we were looking at needing manifolds, a cable TB, Water pump/Gaskets, oil pump, rear main seal, front seal, sump gaskets, the lot. The "While we're there" started on the engine stand but it quickly accumulated. During this time a lot (almost all) of the RB stuff sold, so I more or less had a shell sitting on stands. The desire to just cut ties and walk away was very strong, an underutilized MX5 was in my hands, but then I thought "What if...., I'll never know if it was actually gonna be awesome...." So I started the search for a gearbox.
  5. 4 points
    shit mark, glad you are OK. But if an 86 is too much to handle, what possible option is there to downgrade to?
  6. 4 points
    f**k man, thats an elaborate fuel system. That's some Don Mega shit right there...
  7. 4 points
    In this scenario the best option is.... don't get a skyline They may look cool if you don't see them around all the time, but they don't stand up performance wise stock to anything else that you could get for $25K in Europe. Given how hard it is to mod them/bring them up to spec where you are, this is a compounding problem. You'd be better off with a Megane Cup or similar hot hatch from Europe for a multitude of reasons (performance, cost, availability of parts, local knowledge)
  8. 3 points
    So..... After parking my 86 into a fence, and then a guard rail..😖..I bought a old Bogan 2002 VX SS II auto cruise ship for a daily driver/project. Enter 1 x 2002 VX SS II Auto I searched around for ages looking at everything from new MX5's to 370Z's, and everything in between, I came across this old boat early in my searches, the boy pointed it out actually, he said "it looks old, slow and noisy, just like you, and mum would hate it", so with that kind of endorsement, and, with nothing else that really touched my special spot (something different, something I can play with, something that should annoy the neighbors and old peole, something with minimal electronics that a old idiot with monkey fists can work on, and parts that are easy to find and cheap, and parts that are cheap, and parts that are cheap), I grabbed it. Don't ask what I payed for it, I'm pushing that bit of information back down deep into my brain where my empathy lives to never surface again. Needless to say it is super clean and straight. Engine: LS1 5.7 Headers, twin 2.5" exhaust, OTR, Tune??? (It goes surprisingly well, LOL, shut up, it does go well, and it sounds f**king awesomeballs) it will visit Pulse Racing for some love in a while. I'm not sure about the Simmons rims though, 18 x 8.5 with 245/30 front, 18 x 9.5 with 265/30 rear, I think I'm going to try and find some OEM VX SS rima for it (swaps????). Suspension: Yellow lowering springs (Kings?). Some shocks??, I'll have a better idea when I lift the car and pull the wheels. I'm thinking its had some bushings done, the thing is as tight as a tiger. I've only just got it, so, so far I have only cleaned the airfilter, it's a over the radiator CAI jobbie that makes cool induction noises. So far things to do: Engine oil and filter Spark plugs Trans flush and filter Diff oil Brake fluid flush Power steering flush Coolant flush Wheel alignment Good wash, polish and wax Wrap headers.....maybe, or find some other form of heat sheilding for them... Then, look for other stuff like old hoses or broken stuff. You know there will always be broken shit in a 20 year old car. What are my plans for it? drive it around really, hit the drags once or twice for some LOLs, not back it into a fence....and guard rail....
  9. 3 points
    Lolwot Please disable your SAU account
  10. 3 points
    Now that is much more you than the previous hairdresser car. Add turbos please. Apparently a pair of GT3582 are the go.
  11. 3 points
    im gunna go ahead and say this is a load of malarkey mate....rotella t6 absolutely tried and tested I have this oil in over 15 units on my fleet as well as my integra type r, gtr, and gts. not to mention 2 1000hp supras in the area running t6. All cars that hit and see over 7500rpm daily. never once have I ever seen "oily air" or had any oil failures in anyway. ive had good luck with motul but for what its worth the t6 is better bang for buck. redline oil caused my rb26 to burn oil and smell like fuel in oil, instantly changed back to t6 and my motor was happier than a pig in shit(never see oil in my turbo pipes either). come on don't add comments that aren't true at all its quite misleading. forget rpm its an oil that withstands higher compressions rates than any of our rb's. I change my oil every 2000km in the R and have never seen foamy or bubbly oil once and ive dropped it cold, mild, warm, hot, and screaming hot. Also, I check my oil often the dipstick is always thickly coated with t6 never seeing any bubbles or "airy foam"....cheers
  12. 3 points
    Hi All, Been a while since i was on here and in a skyline, but im pleased to say that im now the proud owner of this R32 engineered with an RB25DET NEO and heaps of fruit! Spec is as follows:- Engine & Drivetrain:- 105,000km’s Engineered 365kw Rb25det neo Set up with Boost by gear. As follows 18psi 1st, 2nd and 25psi 3rd, 4th, 5th on e85 18psi on 98 Gtx 3076 .82r garrett with speedflow fittings and braided lines ATP catch can with speedflow -10 braided lines and fittings 50mm gen V turbosmart external waste gate Spitfire coils Custom 3 inch dump into 4 inch HKS exhaust ARP head studs Bosch 1250cc injectors Turbosmart fuel reg Turbosmart fuel filter Walbro 460l fuel pump with relay Haltech elite 2500 49mm Koyo type r copper radiator Brand new Rb25 gearbox, exedy sports tuff HD clutch with upgraded pressure plate and one piece tailshaft 4.3 diff gears 1.5 way nismo diff Interior:- Haltech racepack street dash Aem oil pressure gauge Aem wideband Turbo smart boost gauge on pillar Suspension & Handling:- Cusco street zero adjustable coilovers R33 Front lower control arms Adjustable castor rods Exterior:- Genuine N1 headlights Genuine GTR bonnet, Genuine GTR front bar Genuine GTR grill Genuine 17x9 3 Piece BBS LMs wrapped in Hankook rs4s ICE:- Alpine Double DIN Headunit Kicker Amp Kicker 6x9's Kicker Front Speakers c/w tweeters and crossovers Current plans are:- raise it up a little bit 10-15mm remove some camber from the front, buy some new rear tyres wire up the wipers carbon front lip (to replace the flaking stock one) enjoy driving it!! Now for the pictures!
  13. 3 points
    What the f**k,? Just drive it. You don't need a map of the engine
  14. 3 points
    Canadian gtr rain or snow ready to go they should have never ended production of these cars! I’m sure impressed with how the car handles snow, ice, rain, She goes to work everyday and is super easy to fix. Fairly fast for -5 setup but nothing compared to the mates in Australia. You guys have some amazing skylines down there and the knowledge is endless! Non the less here’s my old girl. I let my husband drive from time to time haha.
  15. 3 points
    2.8 with build head. 4th gear dyno. Getrag with 4.1 diff. I can get 1.7bar at 4000rpm 5th gear on road.
  16. 3 points
    Its most likely the bov causing your issues. Its dumping out air the MAF has already measured so the engine is getting much less air than what has been measured. The stock ecu isnt good at handling false info. This is a common "issue" with these engines and bovs, especially fake ones. (More a feature really when fitting engines with parts not designed for the setup) Anyway I think your options are: 1. Get a bypass valve instead of blow off, stock or aftermarket. 2. Block off the bov completely. 3. Go aftermarket ecu with map 4. Relocate maf after bov and get a programmable ecu like nistune with a retune. 5. Ignore the problem and carry on. Learning how to give it gas while braking might help. I think number 1 is the most sensible one on a stock car, especially since we cant really say for sure its the bov via interweb, but its a good place to start. Stock bov is perfectly fine and should be cheap. I sold mine for ~20€
  17. 3 points
    Pic by: Adam Reaver (Reaver Studios) Event: SAU NSW Kebab Run cruise.
  18. 2 points
    Finally got to drive it an anger and no engine protection issues and I can hold the steering wheel with one hand under full power now
  19. 2 points
    Garage Skids Video Not Loading
  20. 2 points
    Oh yeah! Now you are talking. Get a new plastic power steering resorvoir, they are cheap as and then you get rid of that yellowy plastic crap. skid vids please
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Major update time. After many months of researching and planning, this is the end result. Items added: - Garrett GTX2867R II - HKS 264 12mm Cams - Supertech Valve Springs and Retainers - Turbosmart Kompact BOV - Koyorad Alloy Rad - Greddy Intercooler - Catch can Tuned once again by 101 Motorsport who did the tune back in 2016. Car made a healthy 230kw which is what I was expecting. Haven't had much of a chance to drive it given COVID-19. All important pictures! New cooler peeking through (much larger than my old Gktech return flow) At 101 Custom made catch can and Koyorad. We found the stock rad struggling to keep temps down. I was planning to upgrade the rad sooner or later but this necessitated it now. Rocker cover redone in wrinkle red and I managed to nab a Top Secret oil cap Turbosmart Kompact BOV + all new piping Fab work is top notch Turbo at home Defi is not new but shot this while out taking the first picture. It actually came in handy because I was too busy enjoying the car to notice the temps. I had set up limits on the Defi so once it started beeping at me, I quickly realised something was up (the rad).
  23. 2 points
    well what a past couple of days its been.... primer sanded, buffed, polished gelcoat doen and coupling coat laid.. wow.. 20200325_160851.mp4
  24. 2 points
    Do this for the rear, if you want some stability. -1 degree camber (these things camber in hard when they squat) 1mm toe in each side (2mm total toe in, on squat these shit boxes toe out)
  25. 2 points
    They’re f**king shit boxes that have more problems then a Ferrari
  26. 2 points
    I drove a Focus RS around 'The Farm' a few months back, was more than impressed by it. Great little car, looks you can warm to, let's face it most of us are married right ?? 😀
  27. 2 points
    well this is awkward: PranK cannot receive messages. you might want to talk to an Admin about that.. 😲
  28. 2 points
    Thanks @PranK! Yeah, things easing up a bit here, although recently they've started getting on edge again. Not nearly as bad as Europe and N.America, though. Fingers crossed! Also, hi @etang789! Car photos attached! WGNC34 coming this summer...
  29. 2 points
    I am using my valuable thoughts and prayers on this situation, the high powered ones.
  30. 2 points
    the boys. after this bullshit dies down, how about we all organise a wasteland dinner? blokes are on the menu. blokes on blokes
  31. 2 points
    yes great way to set idle. I tried to go about this but could not achieve the idle speed with leaking intake gaskets and iacv. I could get it to 900ish with idle screw all the way in. nistune, iacv, intake gaskets good to go now. was very misleading almost made me think my timing belt was out. Found the leaks spraying brake cleaner around engine with it running mainly around intake listening for sputters didn't bother with turbo side
  32. 2 points
    Drove QR Autumn Matsuri last weekend. Heaps of fun and driving with mates that made the trip from Townsville. Blew a welsh plug out of the block Saturday night Got a new one and got it in and drove until the last 1.5hrs when 3rd gear decided to finally explode. Got a video from in car that I need to edit. Did post event comp test and tested 150-155psi, tested cooling system too and all good. New s14 gearbox was sourced and inspected before install, all new filters and fluids all ready for Thursday night at Archerfield drift. Definitely need to go e85 as extra 20kw would help on the big tracks. Once I get home hopefully do a few more steering mods and fix a few chassis problems.
  33. 2 points
    Hi All. My name is Salim and I'm from Durban , South Africa. I have a 1995 R33 GT-R. I have benefited greatly from this forum already. Thanks to all.
  34. 2 points
    Fixed up a couple of little niggly issues and installed a bright LED strip in the boot to replace the standard bulb...makes the car look way nicer and way more..european weirdly. Currently lookong at headunits for the car. Debating between a Chinese branded Andrpid powered unit or a name brand Android Auto unit....
  35. 2 points
    Intercooler piping time, excuse the mess around my car. I will acid and clean up all the welds and polish the pipes a bit but that will happen much much later. This is mostly it for the intercooler pipes, I still need to roll a bead on the end of the pipes for the silicone joiners, weld on flanges for the blow off valves and weld on bungs for water meth injection nozzles
  36. 2 points
    Just a quick update for future readers in case it is meaningful: while I'm still awaiting my 3 liter catch can to come to the states, I tried a few experiments to manage this blow by on the street. First, I dropped down to my 19psi, no meth/water pump gas map. Then I drained out my overfilled oil (was to the bottom of hump, now back to the top of the hash marks). I cleaned all the oil that pissed out of my tiny atmo 250ml catch can and then covered it in a loosely fitted clean ziplock bag so that I could watch for oil vapor coming out, mitigate oil spray while testing. I drove the car to work and back with a detour, all totaling about 3 hours with quite a bit of WOT pulls mixed in. Got home and the ziplock bag was pristine, just some water vapor. Drained the catch can. 17ml, mostly runny doubt much oil. I did a compression test again this time as fast as I could after shutting the car off. 177F oil temp is as high as I could get without a tstat. Compression was between 172-179 across the board. No more cyl at 10% difference. Guess these Mahle's are loose when not fully hot. Conclude that there is not a ring issue at this point. Then I did another drive next day after switching back to my 25psi meth/water map, changing nothing else. Drive was shorter...about 1-1.5 hours and full of WOT pulls. Drained catch can: 3ml, mostly runny/watery again. So that is all with a 250ml atmo catch can, factory oil level on dipstick, and the Hi-Octane baffles. I therefore must conclude that the standard practice of overfilling to the hump was sending oil back to get aerated by the crank hence my earlier issues with overwhelming the catch can and before that filling my piping/intercooler. At this point, I still have 40+ psi oil pressure drops (to lows of 40-50psi) under acceleration Gs and the only way to fix that looks like engine pull with sump extension or Accusump, as the Tomei baffle seems to not be enough. But it is not like the overfilling really helped much. I logged it at around a 5psi reduction in pressure drop to the hump vs standard oil level. I don't know how this would play out on track but I'm postponing taking it to the track until the oil pressure drops are dealt with and the larger catch can is in place. I am going to run a line from the dipstick tube to the smaller catch can in the meantime since I am getting very little in my can now.
  37. 2 points
    Welcome. i will modify Sam's advice a little. Your R33 has the smallest and least torquey engine possible to get in an R33. It will be naturally very easy to stall, so don't be afraid to use a few more revs and slip the clutch just a bit more than might be ideal as you start from rest. You'll eventually get a better feel for it and what you can get away with. But in the meantime, more (revs) is less (stalling).
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    So, after driving around with an internet-happy and extremely well performing EFR and RB28 combo for awhile, as god intended (i.e manual), I had a bit of a realisation. ...... it was too much for the street. It was too laggy. In all my attempted fixes, I had always trended towards more response, less lag, faster throttle response. I also noticed on the street, I was turning the boost down to 11psi, and a very respectable 330kw. I also noticed for any time I went to the track, I was also turning the boost down to 11psi, for safety reasons or otherwise (lol misfires.) I then noticed that even with a 2.8, even with an EFR, that going from 0 throttle to WOT at 6000rpm still took a good ~1-1.5 seconds to actually hit full boost. I then asked myself if I would prefer that interval to be instant, for the tradeoff of only ever having about 300kw of max power. You know, the power I kept limiting myself to anyway for actual use. Then bad thoughts started happening. Thoughts of reading VASS Certification documentation, Vicroads laws and loopholes, earnestly researching "So yeah what exactly are the rules here?" It seemed dumb that a EFR 330kw setup was absolutely verboten, but a V8 in the car looked entirely legal.. ... and cheaper. ... and easier to replace. ... and significantly less stress on the motor.. I was a little tired of parking the car, and walking away, worrying about this noise, that clunk, that odd sound, that piece of trim falling off, etc. Truth be told, a fair bit of other things happened over the years on the car, but the priority of "please don't explode" took precedence. This was also compounded that (as noticed by my lovely gf) that I seemed to have much more fun driving other people's cars (like hers) mainly due to the fact I could enjoy them, instead of constantly worrying about them. This is where people usually just sell their car BUT NOT ME, CAUSE I'M STUPID! It was also about this time I got an enquiry about selling some of my totally not cursed car parts, and it all started looking dangerously plausible. I had second thoughts. I distinctly remember driving the 34 around after I took a deposit for the engine... and felt terrible. Sad. Like I had betrayed a friend. Like driving your pet to the vet knowing they are going to be put down. Surely it wasn't that bad was it? I also bought this: (which is now for sale btw) I thought: I will be without the 34 for a long time, I want something fun to drive around in during it, go to track days, etc with friends in the interim. It was unnervingly good, quiet, reliable, fast and most importantly... really fun. I was only about 1s slower at Winton in this Renault than I ever managed in the 34. So it pretty much put a huge base line in the ground saying: "You must be at LEAST this much fun/fast/generally OK to avoid being set on fire/sold" But in the end, the car went off the road, to a different place of surgery, namely the person who rebuilt my engine in the past, because no way was I going to tackle this on my own.. the research I can handle, and I can turn bolts, and I can wire things. But I sure as hell appreciate a second opinion when shit is really important. Here it is, or was, as it sat, when I took the first photo before.. uh, it's... transition. "Are you really gonna do this?"
  40. 2 points
    Thanks for the answers! I installed the stock BOV and fixed the problem :)
  41. 2 points
    100% the vent to atmosphere BOV... I have the exact same issue, the only way around this is what @thebe said.
  42. 2 points
    Incorrect. RB25, RB26 and the HKS 2.8 use 121.5 mm rods. From memory the RB25 NEO ran RB26 rods from the factory. HKS get away with using a factory length rod while using the 77.7 mm crank by moving the pin in the piston.
  43. 2 points
    Blair's Tyre Service Cabramatta, I have had 2x 255/40/18 fitted for under $500 (will need to dig up receipt) last year... hence, "have had".. not sure if Coronavirus has inflated the prices yet lol
  44. 2 points
    Even with the original paint code the colour will never be the same as what you have now due to the age of the car. This is due to the violets having poor light fastness ( fade easily over time in sunlight due to UV exposure ) There are multiple ways to go about it: 1. A very competent colour matcher should be able to match the colour of the panels on the car now. 2. A colour reading can be taken off the panels with a portable spectrophotometer that has the colour formulation data already loaded into it. Then the program can colour match the new formulation match the panel on the car. You will need to achieve a DE (delta E) of less than 0.3 ( this is the colour reading the spectro will generate ). Also for it to be a perfect match it will also need to be checked in three light sources : ( all with a DE of less than 0.5 ) : D65/10 ( what sunlight looks like at midday ) A10/10 ( what sunlight looks like in the early morning ) F2/10 ( what sunlight looks like in the light afternoon ) This is to avoid the colour looking metameric ( different shades of colour at morning/noon/afternoon ) Hows that ? Clear as mud ?
  45. 2 points
  46. 2 points
    To all you who are wondering what the heck that spear gun is, it’s called the ESD Harpoon Launcher and was specifically made for 2 Fast 2 Furious. It is not a real gun. https://fastandfurious.fandom.com/wiki/ESD_Harpoon_Launcher
  47. 2 points
    HICAS works, until you break a bit of traction and then you die.
  48. 2 points
    Absolutely. Remember the nuggets have modern billet compressor wheels and the latest modern journal bearings though. AND their HKS too remember....
  49. 2 points
    Forget the 0.92, go the 1.05. Below is a back to back on a 2.7. Blue is 8374/1.05 and red is -5’s. Only change was associated pipework to make the single work.
  50. 2 points
    Soooooo this thing feels like its gonna kill me lol. Got all the layers of glass on and started sanding till i could no longer stand the itch lol. Now its in primer and ive been rubbing it back with bog and i reckon im half way through my second 4kg tub of bog but its getting there and im loving it! Ive also FINALLY finished the wing mount... i reckon its about revision 25 but im actually happy with it. No side to side movement and seems pretty stiff! Simplest ideas are sometimes the best! Next will be the brakes there nearly done im just waiting on some bolts and bits to arrive and then should be able to button them up.
This leaderboard is set to Sydney/GMT+10:00
  • Create New...