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Showing most liked content since 03/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Car has been great, my TRUST oil cooler kit arrived from Japan and I spent last weekend installing it! The only problem I ran into was that I ran out of space running the lines due to my turn flow cooler getting in the way, but I used my imagination and made it work. While I waited for the kit to arrive I bought an AN spanner (china specialé) and a tube of Aeroflow thread lube/sealant, just the usual AN supplies really. Test fit At this stage I released the front mount was going to have to come out.. This is the bit where I needed to use my imagination, the lines looked to hang really low, but after moving the slack from under the rad support back into the engine bay it hugs very tight and doesn't go lower than the pipework which is ok, I've also covered it in the protective covering provided. While it was all apart I installed a pair of great condition xenon headlights to replace my old and many a time modified headlights which was very welcome! Once that was all done I let it idle for a little while and get up to temp while checking for leaks and keeping a close eye on the oil level which seemed pretty spot on. Confident in my work I took it for a test drive for a good hour with no issues Very happy!
  2. 8 points
  3. 6 points
    My R32’s previous config was setup as a Targa car, roughly 300kw @ the wheels using a pair of GT-SS's and some supporting mods. It was time for a change – my new setup is focused on track days. To be clear up front, I’m not chasing dyno numbers here! The brief to RacePace was to build it once and give me a responsive engine with reliability. · N1 Block · RacePace stage 2 2.8 · 9 litre sump · 100mm Intercooler · 1,000 cc Injectors · Borg Warner EFR 8374 T4 1.06A/R · Twin 40mm waste gates · 98 PULP (E85 on the cards in the near future) I'm super impressed with the response and looking forward for its first track shakedown..
  4. 5 points
    Tune is done! Anyone who had spoken to me about the Neo swap power expectations knows that the maths says the TD05 would be too small and become a restriction at ~6000rpm. As the turbo made 290kw on the RB20DET where it was bang in the middle of the compressor map we thought on the RB25DET it would make 250-270kw up top but be super punchy through the low and mid range..... But the little TD05 went above and beyond all expectations cracking 340kw up top before falling over a bit at 6500rpm. The 44mm gate was a bit too small for this motor/turbo combination which can be seen in the boost graph below. 17.8psi is the lowest it can run with a bit of overshoot before it settles due to the amount of gas that is trying to flow out the small hole. Solid result and more than happy just means no low boost mode and need to control boost with the right foot red graph is the old 290kw RB20DET graph with the same turbo (except 8cm vs 10cm) Dyno Video
  5. 5 points
    Some updates, after pulling out my flex sensor I've been able to command the injectors to do what I want but when I drop say I set the IPW at 1.5ms or under they still don't like it too much. Probably has to do with the fact they're 1550cc and I'm running a batch fired ECU. So solution? I drained the tank and poured in E85 and set the ethanol concentration to 85% when the flex sensor is not detected. Here it is now with 26 degrees of timing on idle, 14.7:1 AFR (gasoline scaling), 1.7ms IPW and idle at 900rpm.
  6. 5 points
    Here is a dyno sheet of Jake Jones RB28 now with 9174. The precision was junk for drifting too laggy. Most overseas drifters run an EFR so will be interesting to see what he thinks. a
  7. 5 points
    Wiring time. I had put this off in the hope that someone else would do it for me but with the deadline for it being taken to tune fast approaching it was time. I wanted to keep the RB25DET Neo loom rather than mod my 20 loom to fit. this was mainly as i had bought a LINK ECU plug and play for the GTT ECU plug looked like this... bit of work with a carby jet drill solved the smooshed plug. stripped back the RB25DET Neo Stagea loom and my R32 RB20DET loom and went through and labelled all the important plugs and pins i needed to match up. made up one of these for each of the plugs then a reference of what to cut and add where. i tried to keep track of every thing i did in the hope of making a guide in the near future for those who undertake the same conversion. I just want to ensure it all works first. Day before it was booked in for fabrication the loom was all together and wrapped up after a few tests for voltage at each Pin. After getting the Link to talk to my laptop and playing with a few settings to roughly have it correct to start, injector sizes and what sensors was on each I/O this happened by 12:30am it looked like this 8:30 am the next day it wash pushed back and ready for picking up
  8. 5 points
    Solid launch, fades off when i hit hi gear.
  9. 5 points
    Fnkced up with the mental concept of offset? So was I. Then, like a nail gun to the back of the head, inspiration struck! Offset is indicated by the use of the initials ET. ET is short for Einpresstiefe - a German word meaning 'Insertion Depth'. Let's use it in a sentence: In November 1941, the 4th Panzer Army's maximum Einpresstiefe was 30 km west of Moscow. Now, to visualise offset, it helps to imagine Russia as a giant wheel arch, and the German 4th Panzer Army as a wheel (no, not a tank track). At ET 0, the mounting face of the wheel hub is level with the half-way point between the inner and outer lips of the rim (say, near Minsk). The further IN to the arch the wheel goes, the GREATER the Insertion Depth i.e +30 (Mocbah!) The further OUT of the arch the wheel sits, the LESSER the Insertion Depth i.e -20 (Only as far as East Poland.) Adding a spacer moves the whole wheel further OUT, DECREASING the Insertion Depth (ET) ie. +35 to +25 Machining metal off the wheel hub mounting face moves the whole wheel further IN, INCREASING the Insertion Depth (ET) ie. -10 to -5 Next week, Darkmeat will explain the workings of the float valve, using Nelson's series of consecutive victories at Copenhagen Ushant Nile & Trafalgar to illustrate.
  10. 5 points
    Oh, bought some wheels whilst I was in Japan too. Hayashi Racing CR in 8.5x15 -5 for the front and 10x15 -15 for the rear, plenty of dish!
  11. 5 points
    Just an update decided to fix my airbox restriction issue, last time i was on Trent's dyno it was ~10rwkw restriction on the stock airbox. Bought a 4 inch wide Pod and adaptor. Got JDM Garage Melbourne to fit it up and do a custom airbox whilst retaining the snorkel and stock look due to VIC Police defects.
  12. 5 points
    So much cringe. So so much. Jesus christ. Johnny it's good to see you being realistic with your setup VS your requirements. Why throw thousands of dollars at something when spending 1/3 as much will satisfy your needs. Us gts-t guys realise that we don't need a fuel system to support 800hp. GTR guys and SR20 fags ^^ sure do love burning cash.
  13. 4 points
    For good measure, car went to Mexico for stress testing.
  14. 4 points
    Please don't say ebrake ever again
  15. 4 points
    I'd rather live with apex gang members than Queenslanders
  16. 4 points
    Hey SAU, I'm Tarun, a Nissan freak based in country VIC. I'm also the web developer behind the scenes at Joel's Garage Gear. When I'm not busy helping Joel sell workshop equipment I am usually found playing with rear wheel drive Japanese cars. One of my goals for 2018 is to get back in to club racing again. The Albury Wodonga Car Club hosts the Rapid Lap Dash series each year of which I've previously had great fun driving at a few of their events. At the time my Nissan Silvia was simply a street car with budget tyres and a welded differential. So this year it's time to get a little bit more serious about it all. In the past I've had to find the fine balance between making the car competitive as well as making sure it remained roadworthy. But while it's convenient to be able to drive to and from the track, there is nothing like having a dedicated track car with no limitations. Sticking with the same s-chassis platform that I've had experience with in the past the latest 180SX should be a lot more fun once it's properly set up. And by 'properly set up' I really mean built at home by an enthusiast with no formal mechanical knowledge. I do have a 2 post hoist from Joel which makes most jobs a lot easier. It will play a vital role in this build and I couldn't imagine doing it without it. Underneath the dust and cobwebs is a fairly straight shell that has already had a cage welded in and the interior stripped out of it. The previous owner gave up on it and let it sit for the best part of 2 years. So it will require a good service and a tune before it will be ready for track duties. Under the bonnet is a mildly worked SR20DET that came in this chassis from the factory. I didn't get much history with the car but from a quick visual inspection I can see that it has been treated to an upgraded T28 turbo and an aftermarket exhaust manifold. The restrictive AFM has been removed in favour of a MAP sensor and it has bigger injectors installed along with new coil packs. In addition it also has an ECU managed boost control solenoid which should make things fun! The real star of the show however is the standalone Vi-Pec ECU installed to control the updated setup. This will allow me to have the car professionally dyno tuned to get the best performance out of it whilst keeping the engine safe. Before we begin to worry about all of that though, first we need to be able to stop. Luckily I have a couple of R33 Skylines laying around that I can borrow the brakes from. The thing I love about 90's Nissan's is the interchangeability of parts between models. The larger brakes from the Skyline will literally bolt on to the Silvia with not much effort at all. What it will also do is convert my wheel stud pattern from 4x114.3 to 5x114.3 which is exactly what I need as I plan on running 17x9 wheels from an R33 GTR Skyline in order to fit some meaty 255/40/R17 semi slick tyres. The wheels are currently away being powder coated. So I need to get the 5 stud swap done before they get back. I managed to shuffle a few cars around to get the 180SX on the hoist ready to begin race prep. The shell already has a welded in roll cage which is a great start! The first thing I decided to do was to strip out the factory air conditioning system to lose a few kilos - 15.8kg to be exact. I then borrowed the suspension from another S13 project that I had laying around. These BC Racing coilovers are in excellent condition and should do their job nicely. A common problem with lowering a Silvia is that the tyres manage to eat through the wiring loom. I've had this happen to me once and I don't plan on going through that ordeal again. So I tucked them up out of harms way. The next step was addressing the brake and suspension upgrades that I had planned. Lucky, because the factory hubs and brakes had seen better days. A quick lick of paint had these calipers that I took from the R33 looking new again. A few deliveries then turned up which meant I could finally make a start on the suspension overhaul. The tub of my Datsun 1200 ute makes for great storage space. I began by removing the stock front arms and suspension components. I then removed the inner tie rods and added some lock spacers to give the car a little more steering angle. I then installed some 5 stud conversion hubs so that I could keep the stock S13 knuckle rather than having to upgrade it to an S14 item due to the difference in the size of the spindle. I then added the front brakes from the R33 Skyline and hooked up the new braided brake lines from GK Tech. I'm also running a 15mm hub centric bolt on spacer so that the R33 GTR wheels won't rub on the springs of the coilover suspension. It didn't take long to have the front suspension and 5 stud conversion completed. The car now has adjustable lower control arms, brand new drop links for the anti-roll bar, adjustable coilovers, adjustable tension rods and adjustable tie rod ends. It has lock spacers in the steering rack and larger 4 pot brake calipers. Quite an upgrade! With all this new found adjustability one thing is for certain - I need someone who knows what they're doing to adjust it. I may have slightly over estimated how wide I needed the front track to be. Soon it was time to tackle the rears. A bit more effort was required to convert these to being 5 stud and using the Skylines rear handbrake setup. Once again I began by removing the stock arms and whilst I had good access I decided to install the slip on collars for the rear sub frame. These will stiffen up the old factory rubber bushes somewhat without the need to remove the entire rear sub frame assembly. Very handy as I'm pushed for time! The next step was to remove the rear hubs and handbrake assemblies from the R33 rear knuckles and transfer them on to the S13 rear knuckles as they are slightly different due to the Skyline having rear wheel steering. This wasn't the most fun task as they were fairly well bonded together over the years - But I got there in the end. By now the rear arms were also taking shape so I took the time out to install a very light weight exhaust to replace the old rusted out mild steel one that it came with. It is now 3 inch all the way from the turbo back. Did I mention that the wheels came back from being powder coated? Or that the Type X replica body kit was delivered? All these parts came just in time as the car had to be at the body shop by the weekend. So with a few more hours put in on Saturday bleeding the brakes and setting up the handbrake cables the conversion was complete and it was ready to go! The 180SX is now headed over to the body shop to be resprayed. We can't wait to see how the car looks with a fresh coat of paint and the new race livery. It has been a busy couple of weeks getting the suspension done in my spare time but I'm very happy with the new setup. The car should now handle like it's on rails after the alignment is tweaked. Without the 2 Post Hoist these suspension jobs would have taken a lot longer to complete. In my opinion it is by far the best investment any hands on car enthusiast can make! Well after a good few weeks since the suspension got done the car is now painted and looks fantastic! Unfortunately I have now missed out on driving it at the first two rounds of the AWDCC Rapid Lap Dash series due to a few set backs that prevented me from getting it ready on time for those races. Still, we're aiming to have it out of the shed and onto the race track very soon! This was how it looked being stripped down ready for paint a few weeks ago: The body kit for the 180SX is a mix of both KMAK Aero & ORIGIN Labo parts. Both of which are fantastic quality as far as fiberglass kits go. Making use of our Sheet Metal Guillotine and Pan Brake Folder I decided to have a go at making some replacement door cards for the now stripped out interior. They came out looking great! The body was then cut and welded to accommodate the wider rear track. Both the front and rear are running 30mm wider guards. The body was painted 'Aurora Blue' and the interior was painted 'Ice White' which gives it a really neat and clean look. It also matches our logo colors well which will allow the graphics to tie into the paint job nicely once the paint has cured. Once it returned home it was time to fit the rest of the type X body kit and connect the body loom back in place. I will also be installing my race seat and 6 point harness shortly as well. Once that's done I just need to service the engine with fresh oil and spark plugs plus a new waterpump, thermostat, radiator and coolant and it will be ready to be sent off for a dyno tune and a wheel alignment. Thats all for now, I will try to be active on here from now on so stay tuned for the next update where we will hopefully see what kind of power it makes!
  17. 4 points
    Dafuq? He wants someone to tell him. Not to figure it out by himself.
  18. 4 points
    #notanymore I did a 9.609 @ 146.10mph on Wednesday
  19. 4 points
    Throw an EFR 8374 on there Sean and watch your rev limit go way higher
  20. 4 points
    100% go cams. you pay more, get more and AASA are hopelesssssss..... trust me on that.
  21. 4 points
    Brake upgrade on the front completed, they're only little 8pots, 4pots to go on the rears once bracketry is sorted for diameter and offset. And finally able to get new rims fitted now that brakes are done and allow clearances
  22. 4 points
    1980 Triumph TR7 FHC. No sunroof. 5sp manual, LSD, Koni struts and Whiteline bushes all round. Rust free, resprayed in Ford white, fresh windscreen seal, majority of the car has been undersealed. Previous owner had the car for 20+ years, I was lucky to find the car before he sold it to the wreckers. I have put a lot of effort into getting the car on the road, but need to make room for other projects. Stromberg carbs that have been rebuilt recently, twin choke. New choke cable, new accelerator cable. Front brakes have been rebuilt, rear drum cylinders replaced. 4x new tyres. Replaced fuel tank and fuel lines, which were rusted out. Electric temperature controlled fan, new trunk struts. All fluids replaced recently, barely gets driven. Spares and replaced parts will come with the car (engine gasket kit, carbs kit etc) Car is unregistered and will not come with the roadworthy. Located in Rowville, Vic. Price $4,500 for SAU members. Seller details
  23. 3 points
    Had to day off today so decided to start stripping the 3.4 down. All looks pretty good. Sleeves have fire rings in them so should have a sweet seal with the HG. Also greddy plenum looks to have been port matched and cleaned up inside which is pretty cool 8) Nitto HG and pump should be ordered next week and throw it all back together. Fingers crossed this saturday will be the day and can finally start moving onto the next chapter 8)
  24. 3 points
    potentially something a bit difference. Haven't seen many people go for the TD05 on a 25 RB25DET NEOTD05H-18g 10cm (A/R .73) billet compressor Vband rearAT Performance Steam pipe manifold44mm Turbo Smart waste gate (touch small)1000cc Xpurt ID injectors3" turbo back exhaustFront facing plenum mod by 1110 EngineeringFMIC by Vulcan Performance and FabricationLink G4+ ECUTuned at Garage 7 E85340kW563Nm red comparison chart is my previous setup with the same turbo (smaller housing) 290kw RB20 dyno run
  25. 3 points
    New gasket and studs in, converter now stalls up 8) Test hit on the street proves it, 2 lines down the road 8)
  26. 3 points
    If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  27. 3 points
    Looking back at the results, everyone in my group struggled. Ferarri 488 GTB (500k supercar) 1.41 Porsche 911TT Carrera S 1.39 VF HSV R8 1.40 Considering the above cars all have electronic trickery to help them out, the skyline still did ok with nothing, not even abs but yeah wasn't fun. Quickest cars on the day Porsche cup car on proper wets (driver has balls made of steel) 1.29 Ex HSV V8 Supercar on wets 1.33.4 A couple of Renault Clio 172's ran 1.42 and 1.43 but that was on a 95% dry track. In summary, got beaten by a bloody Clio 172 at Sandown. Demoralising.
  28. 3 points
    Bull bar. Dave had some fun in the Rex with a amg in the poly pipe. Two very different soundtracks.
  29. 3 points
    Infinite Time Attack night at barbs has happened... I only got 4 hot laps in ... but I did do a new PB of 61.6 on the second lap of the night which is great, then I spat a powersteering hose near the rack that couldnt be fixed on the night so had to pack up Great to get a good time the car etc felt great, disappointing not to be able to push it further on the night as I have to say there is a good amount left in it as the car currently stands which I didnt think there would be to be honest Now the chase is on for a 60 sec lap Also previous weekend was back at Antilag Supercruise in collie : again a heap of track time, good fun, good people I got to take passengers out which was fun also as dont do that much. Had to stiffen the suspension up to hardest to accommodate passenger and old tyres which not optimal but still fun and good little track to test your skills on and belt around. Managed a 49.2 which is not too shabby.... like everyone else cant wait for the long track ! The bump is gone now, for now at least, here is an ode to it from the weekend things got a bit loose sometimes same same !?
  30. 3 points
    Here are some pics. . . You should really see the video of my reaction when I first saw the car =D Bought some ze40's Got a weird size though. . . 17x8.5 +30 i think. . . Then after getting Anonymouse post bought a spare set of SSR type C (I reckon they fkn hot. . .) 18x9.5+15. Bought in Japan.. they gay gold colour will get them blasted painted probably gun metal + new stickers. . Spent nights and nights researching wheels. . mainly weights. . these 2 are super light weight. There is lighter but they dont look as sick as these. . Buddy club almost impossible to find. . Oz racing wanted some stupid price like $3,800 for the last set in aus. pfft. . just got Rays ze's Burning the credit card on car gear lol. all part of the fun.. Still havent taken it for a (proper) drive yet. . . =/ only to get paper work for licence application. So its not really driving. . no plates on the car so felt like a criminal. . and now i have the plates so.. Just need to chop or bend them to fit though.
  31. 3 points
  32. 3 points
    completely apologize in advance for my immaturity...
  33. 3 points
    So I can't claim to be moving quickly (but then again this build never has....) but the car is in the paint shop now. Initially they thought they were going to just even up the current surface a bit and respray it....I did warn them this was the 4th time the car had been painted. As you can see, after they got started and saw what they are in for, they are taking most of it back to bare metal to prep, prime and paint. Car should be about 50kg lighter now too. Also fixed the small modification I made against the bank at Targa High Country. They are doing inside and out, should be back in a few weeks. The only real challenge has been the front windscreen which is pretty much irreplaceable being one of Dell's heated ones. They are very nervous about taking it out knowing how hard and expensive it would be to replace....
  34. 3 points
  35. 3 points
    Just thought i also would add this in here: Had the daily Evo X for 2 years. Mods: BMW M2 long beach blue respray Ce28SL rims TMR SST and engine tune Full exhaust
  36. 3 points
    Hey, last cruise was 2 months ago. SAU WA section is really quiet. . . . I just got plates on my 32. Would be really nice to see what rides are out in WA and talk about modifications. Not as much aftermarket gear or wrecked skyline's as over east =/ Anyone want to go for a drive around metro area between 11- 18th April? OR Can one of the ranked (old school) members start plans / thread for new Cruise!!?!?!? Cheers.
  37. 3 points
  38. 3 points
    History: 3076 auto result GTX3582 Auto result: BW EFR7670 Manual Result Manual now, and manual is way laggier than the auto ever was (and it shows in the dyno) 12psi and 18psi runs both on E85. 98 is only about ~10kw behind as the timing is pretty conservative on both runs and it's not knock limited on 98. Why so low boost? Misfire central at anything above 18, and the boost control isn't exactly steady as I have a 9psi spring in the gate. If I could spare about $2k it would get R35 GTR coils and 7psi more spring to see what it could do, but in all honesty being RWD on street tyres it is lively enough as it is, and best to show some mercy to the gearbox. Now someone just needs to buy it
  39. 3 points
    After over 4 months my Project μ HC+ pads finally arrived. there was a series of delays on top of the long lead time. For some reason the Rear pads got put on a boat and the fronts put on a plane... and then the rears came in first fronts installed with a quick clean of hardware rears in mounted with fresh DBA T3 rotors
  40. 3 points
    OT Buraz turned the wick up on his 9180 2.8, 9180 1.05 Ex 580rwkw @35psi basically out of turbine speed.
  41. 3 points
    10?!? If you are going 10 you may as well just go 16. It's only $10/m more. Should be enough to support 2000hp comfortably.
  42. 3 points
    I spent all day (and I mean ALL FKN DAY) trying my hand at smoking competition style pork ribs. Having a chef on the contact list for advice makes it a lot less daunting, and pretty happy with the result, served with miso and lime slaw and hestons triple cooked chips
  43. 3 points
  44. 3 points
    So the sex swing goes under the awning?
  45. 3 points
    first up the Auto spigot bush needed to be removed. i tried the hydraulic (grease or bread) technique but no luck. i think this works best with the manual ones The method i ended up using thanks to R31 forums and Gavin from Garage 7 Items needed: 1xDyna bolt 20mm OD 1x big washer 1x decent weight that fits Put the dynabolt into the auto bush and tap it in gently tighten it up as much as possible remove nut slide over weight and washer. re attach nut go to town using it as a slide hammer pulling the weight towards you. it took me a solid 10mins with the little weight i had but it came free. a heavier weight may work better. new manual spigot bush soaking in oil then got put in, The rear main seal was also done at this time. time for the motor to go in motor in sunlight shot bay starting to go back together with cleaned up washer bottles and radiator
  46. 3 points
    Had some time to kill today so decided to change the diff oil in the car! I've gotta replace my engine oil too, but waiting for the oil cooler to arrive to do that job. Pretty easy job really, jack up the back of the car and pop it on stands, remove the filler bolt and then the drain bolt and catch the oil in a pan, try not to spill it, it's thick and smelly. I'm going to try 80-140w it might be too heavy but I'm not really sure. I've driven my friends car with the same diff with 75-90 and it's ok but nowhere near as "bitey" as I'm used to. If it's too heavy I'll drop it and put 75-90w in.. I bought both Anyway, use your oil pumpy bottle to pump oil into the diff until it starts coming out of the fill bolt like so. Put the fill bolt back in and snug it down nice and tight, then wipe up the mess to keep your diff nice and clean Done!
  47. 3 points
    So my Ard alternator finally turned up. That is now in. Same size as the old one so basically in and out job. In other news. Couple boxes turned up. Had to do a test fit! 6boost with gtx3584rs. Loved the smell of new parts haha
  48. 3 points
    Quoted Lith because he loves a oil leaking precision... 9.609 @ 146.10mph last night at the drags Not bad for the baby 62mm, only got one pass and then got the boot
  49. 3 points
    Thanks for the replys guys, i used to run 20w-50 in my rb20 back in the day.. im debating on going back to that now on this 26, like you guys mentioned 5w-40 is probobly not the best choice. I have done the screwdriver to the engine method. Nothing heard. Im in Seattle WA. Might as well be Anchorage though!! got my massive part order in from Osaka!
  50. 3 points
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