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  1. So, the dyno results hey With the blower at around 5-7 psi at it, it got to 317kwatw and about 950nm... So a gain of about 47kwatw, but a extra 500nm of gearbox destroying, rubber laying torque From talking to the tuner though the final kw number and shape of the curves can be taken with a grain of salt because of the highstall slipping, and stuff....... yadda yadda yadda......meh........it's all black magic to me On the road, it's a freight train, I could only give it a little hit, but the before and after difference is, well, big My next thing to do is revisit Craig's Automatics to adjust the autos tune, so it locks up a bit sooner, "or something" then hit the strip to see what it really does in anger Overall, on day 1, I'm happy and haven't broken anything, yet, well, apart from traction
    8 points
  2. Interesting question. Seems to me it was perfectly fine for the purpose it was engineered for; 100-206kw road cars. I guess a better question is, why do people expect road car engine oiling systems to be adequate for applications with triple the factory power, or sustained high g/ high rev usage? In my opinion Nissan's engineering on the RB series skylines is so good that people 30 years later expect to be able to operate them well beyond their design limits. Try that with an EB Falcon or a VN Commodore. BTW the Group A GTRs ran wet sumps with baffles. Any serious race engine (no matter what the production base was) will run a dry sump if the regs allow it.
    7 points
  3. this is what I found under my car and I fixed it. I spent 3 months with a welder and replacement panels. If you have never done this before you need help. there is more going on here. Please contact me if you need advise, its a complex job but it can be done and you can be very happy with the results I did this during covid lock down, it keep me busy and at home. My car had the same rust in all the same places as yours especially in the boot and wheel arches.
    6 points
  4. Guys have to so be a bit realistic about what they expect their equipment to hold. The GTR scene has gone farken loopy with all this “1200 whp GTR street driven, does high 8’s” rubbish. Between YouTube, Instagram or any other “look at me” social media dribble, everyone wants to be a super star and out donkey swing the next guy. A 600 kw GTR is ridiculously fast (mid 9 seconds or whatever) and if built right can stop, turn AND go. Anything faster that than really becomes a 1 trick pony. To have a manually shifted 900 kw GTR with sticky tyres, on a prepped track launching at god knows what RPM in a heavy car, is it any wonder why the drive lines fail? There is no give and all that grunt/shock load has to go somewhere. Come back down to earth! *off topic rant 🤪
    6 points
  5. I’d rather have my scratched up warn out r32 over any other whip out there. Even tho she has tried to kill me many times now and has cost me every dollar I’ve ever made and then some. I still know the old girl will always be a warrior for me after a day of cutting trees. I don’t even have words why something so average and essentially worthless(can’t take it to the grave) makes me so happy. Family first and I don’t believe in idolizing metal or anything other than god and family. but dam I sure do enjoy fixing and learning things that may be old news to most about the old gtr.
    5 points
  6. It's here, and yes that is a sub board mounted in the background, just need to get al the wiring sorted now.
    5 points
  7. I needed to pop back in to get the speedo calibrated, it was set to whatever the stock centre was. I called and talked to Spiro and he said pop in whenever I was available, I said I am, he said bring it on in, so I did, he also stuck it straight back on the dyno and tickled the tune a bit because he wasn't happy with the idle when off throttle. Excellent service Everything is GTG now, plus I just took the long way back to work It is nice and whiney, on the throttle, but not overly, you can only just here it in the cabin, which is nice, outside, it sounds The car cruises like a dream Coolant temps, on the stock gauge at least, hasn't changed, even when I was sitting in traffic for 10 minutes trying to get off Parramatta road As for bonnet clearance, it easily fitted and there was no need to chop up my new under bonnet liner thingie, winning.... I might paint the trans cooler black to hide it a bit
    5 points
  8. You're still not getting it m8. You need to stop running that shitty e85, toss the emtron in the bin and upgrade to a syvecs and rice racing water injection kit tuned by the rice master himself. Then and only then will u truly understand what quick is m8.
    5 points
  9. What I can't get my head around with the PPG sequential is the fact that they went ahead and used a design that fits the standard case. This completely turned me off after getting my quote from them for $23.5k assembled in a standard housing which I would supply. Going to a custom housing like a Holinger, Albins or Samsonas allows them to move the main and counter shafts outwards away from each other, increasing gear diameter, therefore more material and increasing gear strength - if you are comparing between the same gear materials of course. The OS88 did this to increase strength, but are obviously made out of inferior materials in their gears compared to the sequentials mentioned, or else every OS88 you come across wouldn't have been recently rebuilt or in need if a rebuild. @[email protected] So Paul, Brett and anyone else with a PPG sequential, with the above mentioned do you honestly think the PPG is even close to the same league strength wise as the 3 sequential transmissions I mentioned ? What made you guys want to get one ? Don't get me wrong, I think Pfitzner is a fantastic company and have a fantastic product - but they still don't have a deep professional competition motorsport proven use like Albins or Holinger in racing. Genuinely and honestly, not because you own one, but what do you think objectively their long term reliability is in comparison ? Do you think it really is the best sequential for a GTR on the market ? Genuinely asking, I'm not having a go at anyone's choice of transmission.
    5 points
  10. Further development on the T4 printed turbo on Rb26. This prototype made a pretty big differences, peek 377awkws while making 20psi by 3500RPM and 220rwkws @ 4000RPM. Will doing few more things and hopefully seeing 420awkws+ without loosing response.
    4 points
  11. Throw it all on DOGE coin right now, then cash out buy a M2 CS lol... DYOR, this is not financial/car advice. ... keep the R33, I did that.. although I wanted to sell the croc of shit so many times. Nek minnit, $15k respray and another motor being built. I am dumb.
    4 points
  12. I think a 6870 could be a good match for a 2.8 with vcam and you'd probably be all in under 5. Keen to see someone try it though. Nothing wrong wit a 6466, its a perfect street turbo imo just doesn't have the legs of the bigger cars.
    4 points
  13. I wasted a ton of time searching for topics on this so for the sake of people in future who may be searching, here are the reasons why if you look at your cam angle sensor it isn't in the middle of the slot. Tyndago has said on gtrusablog that if the cas is not at or near center on a stock car, you should be asking questions, and he is right. Reasons 1. an aftermarket ecu can handle the cas twisted anywhere. You just have to set it up at the ecu in the mapping tables. So for example the cas may be deliberately positioned at what looks like max advance so that the owner doesn't muck around in a bad direction. 2. there is a cam gear and the exhaust cam has been adjusted, and the cas has been twisted to keep ignition timing the same rather than setting the ECU. 2a. the ignition timing is way off. and all is ok if the cas goes back to center slot. 2b. the cam belt is installed one tooth out and then the base timing was set. You now have 7.5 degrees of cam advance/retard 3. there is no cam gear and no programmable ecu but someone has decided they want to advance or retard ignition a little. The degrees twist from slot center is twice that number for ignition timing. So for example, a cas twist similar to "one tooth" out is most of the slot, and that's 1/48th x 360 x 2 = 15 degrees of ignition change. 4. there is no cam gear and no aftermarket ecu but the cam is aftermarket and the press fit locator inside the exhaust cam (looks like an offset slot, for R34, that is tilted somewhat with respect to the four bolt holes) is not quite right, so the CAS was twisted to get the base timing correct again. 5. the cas has a broken locator (meshes with the metal shape inside the cam) and this is causing all kinds of issues 6. the head and block have been machined and this changes the geometry slightly. I don't think this is worth much movement in the slot. 7. final answer. The stock sprocket has elongated bolt holes and locator hole and the bolts have been done up such that the cam is rotated from where it was supposed to sit, this is the backyard cam gear solution and you can't see it unless you either degree the cams and discover that with the sprocket marked tooth lined up with the backplate, the cam is twisted, OR, loosen the sprocket and see how much play it has on the cam. This final answer turned out to be my problem. I've seen this "backyard adjustable cam gear" mentioned for other motors, but could not find any threads on this for RB26. Unless of course nissan stock cam sprockets all come with elongated holes? I don't think so, as they have the same part number for exhaust and intake and one of mine had elongation applied to all holes and the other just to the locator hole.
    4 points
  14. Couple of better photos of the tranny during build.
    4 points
  15. After a quick squirt with brake clean and some flat black rattle can action, I present......stealth mode It's still wet but you get the gist With no actual hands on prep, the fisheyes on the hoee clamps, and a few missed spots behind a bracket or hose, it is just like a Holden quality paint job...poor quality IMO it does look better than before though
    4 points
  16. While waiting my new boost controller and flex fuel sensor to arrive I thought I'd have a go at something I've had sitting on the shelf for a few months - halo headlights. Anyone can do this with pretty minimal tools and some patience (I'm still working on that last part). The longest part of this process was actually painting the housings... installing the halos was really simple. So if you're happy with the look of your headlight internals you could skip the painting altogether and save a day or so between waiting for coats to dry etc. To start, I removed all the external stuff from the headlight, any bolts and wires that can come off. As well as the couple of clips around the outside. Take out the bulbs to be safe. I preheated the oven to 180° - once at temp, placed the headlight in for 5-8 minutes (I tried 5 minutes the first time but it wasn't quite enough, so another couple of minutes helped). Once out, I laid it on a towel on a solid bench and (using an oven mitt) inserted a flathead screwdriver into a couple of spots to pry the two sections apart. It took some fiddling. I also used a (new) knife blade to help cut some of the butyl sealant in the tricky spots, although I purposely wanted to avoid doing this too much. It looks and feels like the edges may break but they take a lot of force before breaking... using a wider flathead lessened the chance of breaking. I had to keep working the flathead around, using extra flathead screwdrivers, trim tools etc to stick in places to prevent it from sealing back up. I was left with a pretty sorry looking headlight with semi-soft nuggets of butyl around the edges... now was a good time to try and smooth them along the edges a bit (if it's still soft enough). Inside is an extra fascia/housing which is held on with two screws so comes out easy. I chose to strip the paint off mine so I could black it out, although I left the actual headlight bulb housings alone so they remain the original chrome as I think that may be required by law. I soaked the plastic fascia in oven cleaner for about an hour (could be done in less but I got distracted)... it worked great! I came back and casually wiped the original paint off with no effort at all. Gave it a good wet sand to get everything off and scuff up the plastic underneath. Then some plastic primer coats Then I did a few coats of hi temp paint, though if I do this again I probably would use normal acrylic paint as the hi temp paint needs to be cured at many hundreds of degrees... far hotter than the plastic itself would let me heat it to. It started to melt/wilt slightly as I was trying to heat it enough to cure but I managed to get it out of the oven before any permanent damage was done. I didn't get any pics of the painted fascia alone, but here it is when I was just starting to fit the halos. I didn't bother sanding anything as these will be pretty hidden inside the headlight housings and it looked decent anyway. Now on to the halos themselves! I measured the ring sizes and found some 90mm LED rings on Amazon for the inner holes (surrounding the foglights) and some 150mm LED rings for the outer holes (surrounding the headlight bulb). I picked these as they were the cheapest 150mm rings I could find, just I could test proof-of-concept. This part required waiting around two weeks for shipping... I drilled some tiny holes around the edges and fed some fine jewellery wire through to wrap around the rings and tied it tightly at the back. I thought it seemed a bit ghetto but apparently this is how it's done... There isn't enough room to do the same on the outer/larger ring, but there is a perfect gap behind the fascia so I installed the LED ring directly to the headlight housing. Same deal - a couple of small holes and some wire to hold it in place. With the rings all ready and the electrical wires poking out the back near the bulb connectors, it was time to seal them up. I gave everything a good clean on the inside before doing so. I put the glass side of the headlight in the oven at 180° for 8 minutes by itself (until the butyl started running slightly), then the housing side into the oven for 3 minutes. Then I basically mashed them together and used a flathead to pick up any extra bits of butyl that squeezed out, trying to run it along the seam to help in sealing. And that's everything done! I'm really happy with how they turned out! It'll be interesting to see how long the LEDs last. I'm stoked I learnt how it all works and next time I'd be happy to step up to something higher quality but for now these look awesome haha
    4 points
  17. Gearbox is finally here after about 6 months! Still a few little things I need to put on it then it will be transfer case on, bolt it back in the car, hit key and drive off into the sunset...... Yeah nah it won't be like that at all. Still a heap of things to do but the final major piece of the puzzle is back so if motivation decides to accompany me over the next few months then maybe I'll be hitting the key again at some point this year! I get my licence back 19th of September so it would be fairly amazing for my first drive to be in the GT-R but I'm a realist so let's not get ahead of ourselves! 🤣 Couple of pics of the box. Not sure if you can tell from the photo of the input shaft but the ISF (Isotropic Super Finish) treatment makes it look amazing! Hopefully it holds together! If anyone is interested, the whole gearbox upgrade with Speedtek billet shafts/gears, billet centre plate, new bearings and seals, labour, ISF finish, freight, etc, etc came to about $6500-$7000. A lot of money to be still 5 speed I guess but fingers crossed it's up for a good flogging!
    4 points
  18. so that's what - 4 days you've driven it?
    4 points
  19. Just dropped off the car to Autotech I have all the excitements
    4 points
  20. Just get this: https://www.hpr-tuning.com/product-page/nissan-skyline-gtr-gs7-dct-kit
    4 points
  21. Yeh this is the thing - a track car actually uses 500hp. If you have a car that once made 500kw on the dyno, but all you do is drive it 20kms to work everyday at under 3000rpm - you don't have a reliable 500kw car, you have a reliable 120kw car haha. And even then, you will probably still find yourself pulling it down before it ever gets close to 50,000kms. Nobody is jumping into their 160,000km-since-rebuild 500kw Skyline, driving it to the track and thrashing it for 3 hours, then driving it home. Nobody.
    4 points
  22. The crazy Canadians at it again, the prp trigger Picked up 40whp on install. Cars running so good figured just be done with it and enjoy it at the power it’s at. 580whp done with it for now! IMG_2629.mov FullSizeRender.mov
    3 points
  23. Yep it was more responsive then the stock twins, and held boost all the way to red line.
    3 points
  24. oh mate. the building is literally falling apart every time we do a pull. wellness. very humbling unit i truely dont give a rats ass about jz's anymore. long live the forever oil starving/weakrod bolts/ head gasket/ bad oil pump RB26 who cares i love her let make some power see what a stocker can handle. going till we lift the head
    3 points
  25. Well i know this thread got a little wanky, but i have to eat my foot on something and jump back to why i even started this thread. the whole problem was when we turned the set screw in to tighten down on the cherry sensor i must have ate my wheaties that morning because i crushed the sensor which is why it would read irratic. prp has since changed it to jam nuts one ach side of the bracket(prp wierdness) and once we tightened the jam nuts down we had to grind off the nuts on one side so it wouldnt rub on the stock crank pulley. now made some serious power with the prp trigger and e85. doing another pull tonight on 25 psi
    3 points
  26. Well much to my surprise the car made over 400whp at 14 psi. We literally did one pull and we noticed a boost leak in the Mac valve so need a new one then will try again tomorrow. I couldn’t believe it made 400 already with no timing at all, pump gas, and we didn’t even rev it past 7500. So e85 tomorrow I jus don’t know how far to pay it being the stock motor still. My long block is almost complete but want to see what the stocker can handle. I was thinking 23 psi on e85 and 17psi on shell v power 91 octane. Cheers mates finally got to have some fun with the car again. Rb power! Thanks to Ben (bk) again for all the help throughout the roller coster! FullSizeRender.mov FullSizeRender.mov
    3 points
  27. I've had similar thoughts, wrote an ad to sell the skyline but then common sense or not so common sense prevails. CAN NOT SELL SKYLINE..
    3 points
  28. Variable valve timing should be tuned to optimise VE. The better the VE the more power you can make with less boost. Less boost means less EMAP. Pumping losses are lower. if you improve VE and still run more boost and the engine breaks thats on you. The Dyno told you how much torque you were making. If you try to hit a power target with poor VE, you need more boost. You have more EMAP and higher pumping losses to overcome. The engine is more stressed at the same power output as the losses are higher. You should be tuning an engine to torque. A turbo engine will make peak torque as it crosses peak efficiency of the compressor. This is towards the midrange airflow/revs of most engines.
    3 points
  29. Just fricken Sunk her with 30k of weight on the back. Lucky when your stuck with a skid steer on the back your really never stuck. Had to jump the skid steer off the trailer because ramps couldn’t open up it was so sunk lol. A day in my life actually quite normal lol
    3 points
  30. Realistically a 2.8L with a 1000+hp turbo isn't gunna be THAT streetable. It kinda puts you in "the middle" as it's not going to be good on the street & it's not gunna get you anywhere in roll racing either. Obviously this is just my opinion and no doubt a 650kw car is gunna pull like a freight train once it wakes up! But making a car that's gunna be laggy on the street to compete in the 2nd biggest dick shwinging contest after WTAC every couple of weeks/once a month is going to ruin the car for all those other drives you will take it on. I think you're off ya head ditching V cam and the 6466 man. 6466 + vcam + 2.8L + sequential will make for a brutally fast/responsive car thats gunna do street duties, SAU cruises amazingly well! But realistically it ain't gunna change your roll racing result at the end of the night cos you're going home once the big boys come out to play anyways. All you're doing is sacrificing a f**ktonne of low/midrange & overall average grunt for a lazy 50kw up top dude? At the expense of 80-100kw of midrange grunt and far more drivability off boost ditching V cam. Ditching V cam on a street car is a huge mistake. You've felt the gains its given you and you're basically going 2.8L to give you the low down grunt V cam has given you. You're taking a big sideways step with shit cams and no skinny cam. Bigger cubes & v cam is the only logical choice for a street car. All you're building is a top end screamer in the "guise" of a street car imo.
    3 points
  31. So it’s ready to go for paint which I’ve been told should be in about 2 weeks
    3 points
  32. Holy shit. Grow up, all of you. Topic closed.
    3 points
  33. No that is not the point of the question at all, you gave a bland answer on a multiple question topic, I didn't ask if they would fit I already know they wont...I wanted to find out what adjustment is available on the stock camber arms if there even is any, otherwise ill simply be getting aftermarket toe bolts and camber arms. The point of this topic isn't simply for my own benefit. The "answer" you provided barely benefits me and will not help anyone in the future that has a similar question as the title says MAX STOCK CAMBER. I am putting these posts out there so there is a more available source of information when it comes to the v36's because as you should know there isn't any. 10.5" Rears within +30-40 offset are an extremely common run offset on g37's I am literally a .5 difference from that. I spent days going through G37 threads finding the best possible offset I could run and finding a set within my price range. I am running 18" Rims. I am aware of the varied wear that will happen to the rears due to the increased camber.....again I have read through multiple forums my friend runs almost the identical setup on his V35 and hasn't had an issue with his increased camber the wear isn't that bad, you are acting as if camber is the devil. I honestly don't care what kind of guy you are. I am simply trying to help others in the future and find out more SPECIFIC information on the car. If that isn't something you know or aren't willing to provide no problem but I am not going to act like your reply helped haha.
    3 points
  34. And a LS Nanna would want it that way
    3 points
  35. Fark brah, give the man some time. We expect skid vid by close of business today. Chop chop, get to it Mr MLR.
    3 points
  36. So I have been busy in the last couple of years and mostly updating the Facebook page. I have got my flame suit on for the rest of this. I have made a decision to change the engine in the car and throw away the turbo, fuel injection etc. LS is shit so a Chevy SB2 that does have actual NASCAR history and driven by Dale Earnhardt Jnr has been put into the engine bay. We have taken it out for a shake down yesterday and here is a bit of video. I was only running it about 7,200rpm instead of the 8,700rpm limit the engine has.
    3 points
  37. So far so good, should see dyno today and ready for pickup tomorrow Much excite
    3 points
  38. This kind of thing is why I asked all kinds of questions trying to ascertain where you were wanting to go, as you didn't put that across with your original question. The fact you were asking at all, and the fact you highlighted that it would be on pump gas, used on the street and sitting at around 700whp most of the time suggested that you might be quite concerned about the "around town" part of the rev range. Realistically if you are concerned about the 8500rpm part of the rev range then you have to be willing to sacrifice some of that bottom end, which it sounds like you are now - hence we've moved on and a couple of us are telling you to go 76mm Precision Different people like different things, and this is why people are silly to make out like there is one size fits all - there will be people who will shake their head at the big cams and big turbo discussion for a street car that is going on. Hell, it is not the way I'd go personally BUT I understand that different strokes work for different folks. I've seen that Real Street video misses this kind of point entirely to me, in some ways it shows how the 68mm is way better for the street - or that the 72+mm is where you are transitioning into something which is more of a drag/hp hero car. It dulls the car down on the road, but is much faster if you're keeping it on the boil... IF you have the build to keep it on the boil like that. A 72mm+ turbo that does everything at the top end is not going to be the perfect thing for someone who might want to be able to accelerate hard without dropping 3 gears and / or using rolling antilag to make a quick burst of acceleration happen.
    3 points
  39. Yes, yes... Come to the dark side
    3 points
  40. Yeah, but I don't care about the mentality of the industry and if people know what they are getting into. I care about this build thread and when my engine will be done and how far Benny will take his new engine and why we never hear shit from Piggaz anymore and how many k's fatz could have gotten out of that Q7 if he had've kept it. You know interesting shit.
    3 points
  41. If the cars are being maintained by people that know what they are doing, then they probably aren't breaking things - they're pulling them down and rebuilding them before they get to that point. I'm not even talking about RB's, I'm talking about any engine. Honestly, how long do you think a V8 Supercar engine lasts? It would last less than that on the street too. The best in the business with a vested interest in making them last as long as possible can't make them last, but you get guys on YouTube that have built 30 engines saying they can make a 700kw engine indestructible? Garbage.
    3 points
  42. BBS DTM wheels - BBS Japan These wheels were specifically marketed/sized for the Skyline GT-R. I have added a couple of photos from GT-R Magazine 015, 1997 showing an ad for the wheels. They seem to be quite rare, don't see many come up for sale. Great condition with only a few small scratches. No gutter rash. Centre caps are perfect. Wheel size: 18x9.2 ET20 5x114.3 $2700
    3 points
  43. All about how its presented on Insta. The breakages get left out when you're trying to sell reliability.
    3 points
  44. I just installed an 8474 full race kit 0.92 iwg. Gonna be running 91 octane. Should be on the dyno next week. check my ig for full details @addmoreboost
    3 points
  45. You let the Nissan out Realistically, 300kw. Use it. Enjoy it. Potentially even use it again 😛
    3 points
  46. Ok quick update on the gearbox (saga). Neat Gearboxes went missing on me for a few weeks which was a bit frustrating. Turns out the owner Sam has done his back and been out of action for the last few weeks. During the reassembly process Neat have discovered that the shim/bearing seat for the countershaft have not been machined deep enough meaning they can't achieve the correct end float measurement required. End result is that they need to send the plate off to an engineer to be machined a bees dick deeper to allow the thinnest genuine shim to be used to achieve the required end float. Not the end of the world but a little frustrating. I contacted Alex at Speedtek and I think I encountered the individual I was warned about. I gave him the full information about the problem that Neat had discovered, sent him all the pictures verifying the issue but he just wouldn't cop it and admit fault. Initially he told me I needed to speak to the supplier of the centre plate as it sounds like they had machined it wrong. I replied, ahhhhh buddy, you made it hence why I'm talking to you.... So he hopped onto the other foot and told me to read the service manual as we must be reassembling it incorrectly.... Then he told me they could machine down the thinnest shim Nissan recommend to make the shim to suit the clearance... So does that mean you DID machine the plate wrong???? Anyway, I just strung it out for another 10 messages or so as it was mildly entertaining seeing his moronic responses and how incredibly pig headed his way of handling the issue was. I don't intend this to be racist but people with a surname ending in ski can tend to be firm of opinion at times.... It's cost me another $150 in the process to get the plate machined properly but in the grand scheme of things not worth the headache of giving a shit... A few years ago I would have lost my shit over this but I think in the 8+ years it's been off the road I've matured a bit . Hopefully have the box back in the next 2 or 3 weeks and then the shit hits the fan and I need to work out how committed I really am to this nugget! I've done my licence for 6 months (long story) so would be AMAZING if my first drive on September 19th was in the GT-R... Wishful thinking perhaps?
    3 points
  47. So with the last few days off finally decided it was time to paint my boot so im not ashamed of it anymore. decided to go with QX1 white pearl to match the cam covers and its the colour I plan on painting the car one day. Removed all components and started to fix up the surface rust which thankfully there wasn't much of. removed the sound deadening from under wheel well and battery tray to give a decent finish and im a fan of my car being loud so I wasn't going to miss it. The battery tray was painted in wrinkle black and turned out better then I was expecting, the white pearl didn't pop as I was hoping but I finally feel like I can actually look at the boot and not feel like I own a shit box.
    3 points
  48. In car from best run saturday 2nd pass edit.mp4
    3 points
  49. So having the cage in and it being teched I can now run 10s with out being kicked off. had the fun day at meremere where you can take passengers so my partner and kids headed up for the day. Wasn’t meant cars there maybe 25 in total, that ment very little waiting. Did 6 back to back runs twice then 2 more before calling it a day. Managed to run 3 10s being a 10.9 and 2 10.8s and taking my partner and son down both being in the car when it ran a 10 was wicked and loved hearing there reactions at the other end. Next up is our NZ GTR fest not quick like you guys have over the ditch but still going to be a cool day.
    2 points
  50. April 2021 update, finally got on the dyno to see what all this work did and it came up at my current goal whp which was more then expected. 398whp after the 10th hot run. I wanted 400 so im content with this for now. I dialed in a bit more timing then i had originally setup on the street. I didnt expect this out of the mx8265 without a cam, i wouldnt recommend this turbo but it came with my engine so why not use it.
    2 points
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