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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/05/2020 in all areas

  1. Do not underestimate the hardpark instagram peer pressure. It is very real.
    6 points
  2. Do not underestimate the hardpark instagram peer pressure. It is very real.
    6 points
  3. 20201126_154418.mp4 UPDATE She is awake!
    6 points
  4. Getting to the end of the ver. 3 upgrade to the car now Have had a run in session for checks etc all went well Martin from @Unzipped Composites been working really hard and produced some good stuff we've had planned for a while now New splitter / front wing, oil cooler ducting and rad ducting Few small bits left like DBW and full tune but will get out testing asap even just with the run in tune just to get back in the seat and get back to having some fun driving
    6 points
  5. Yes 100% cos those sleazy kunce rip off big companies designs who actually put R&D into their products. (Which no doubt is what adds to their cost) then slap these things together and undercut them with their products. Fark China we need to boycott them and their sleazy products. Give them a taste of their own medicine!
    6 points
  6. I should have 9274 1.05ar results in the next few months. My 3 liter build is nearing completion.
    6 points
  7. Picked up my powder coating oven today. She's a bloody beauty! Think of the chips and pies I can now have for lunch out here! First powdercoat job I did was to powdercoat my favourite Canadian Club drinking mug! Yeah strange choice I know! I just wanted to throw some powder around to see how it comes out of the gun. I meant to do it in chrome but accidentally put the transparent metallic black in the gun instead! A lot of the powders look the same until you cook them so it looked like the right one till I pulled it back out of the oven and then read the bag.... Anyway, all good. I'll keep playing around until I'm confident enough to coat stuff that matters!
    5 points
  8. When I did this few years back I read everything I could find on the subject including the thread here for example: I was happy to give it a go based on Dan666's experience but only after I checked out EC-11,12,13,14 and AT-8,9 in the workshop manual for myself. As I understand it, the required signals will still be connected between the manual GTT ECU and the existing separate TCU via the GT loom (e.g. pin 29 speed signal and pin 37 throttle opening signal). I'd suggest to anyone planning this swap to look at those pages and get an idea of the similarities and differences. Apart from that I can only speak from experience - I swapped in the manual GTT ECU and it's been fine on my NA+t. I said 'almost' plug and play because there will be errors related to traction control and boost sensor which aren't physically there on a GT. But those were easy enough to workaround - I fed suitable voltages to the correct pins on the ECU via diodes to stop the check engine light coming on. Pin 104 signal has different purposes between GT/GTT ECUs so a GTT ECU won't control the GT inlet manifold valve if that's still fitted. Little bit of info on page EC-44 for anyone interested. The signals for A/T position indicator dash lights are not present on the manual GT ECU. Mine never worked before I did the conversion so I can't say for sure what will happen to those but I don't see why they wouldn't get the signals from the existing GT TCU. Pin 79 is an interesting one. Looking at page EC-18, that signal relates to malfunction detection. For GTT it relates to TCS/ABS e.g. 'Malfunction (open/short circuit, etc.) is detected in multiplex communication line between engine and TCS/ABS'. And for GT it's different: Malfunction (open circuit, short circuit, etc.) is detected in multiplex communication line between ECM and TCM. [RB25DE). That difference hasn't caused any issues for me in the past 4 years as a daily driver. For anyone Googling for answers I'd say some of us have had success and some haven't. It's inconclusive. But for the OP who's invested in this already, a manual GTT ECU can work and might be worth a try compared to the GTT auto ECU which will be a pain for the reasons already pointed out.
    5 points
  9. Right so I'm either dumbest, most gullible person on the planet or a fiercely brave groundbreaker! I've ordered the Speedtek gearset and will hopefully see it early to mid December. I got the assurances I felt I needed from him (Alex) and I also spoke to a guy in NZ with a 610kW R33 GT-R running the gearset. He's run a 9.7 sec quarter mile on it. I specifically asked him about a) the service he received from Alex and b) the product itself including fitment. This guy had nothing bad to say. Alex's remarks (be they right or wrong) were that at this point he wasn't too fussed about chasing work in Australia at this point (maybe he realises he's burnt too many bridges here and minimal chance of recovery?) as the majority of his gearsets are heading to drifters/racers overseas and the number of them he's currently selling are the capacity of his workshop anyway so he probably wouldn't be able to handle much more in the way of capacity. If anyone wants to know, I got the 1-5 gearset with a 0.7 ratio 5th gear and their billet centre plate. All up it was $4200 including post (*** if my wife is reading this I'm actually grossly exaggerating, I got it all for $420 and fitment was free.... But, if I'm dead and you're selling my shit to afford a bood job, it WAS worth $4200 plus about another $1000 to get it further treated and assembled, send me a photo and make sure you look after the kids xx.***). It's an expensive gamble and I'll be pooping myself until the first time I dump the clutch at full noise! I'll be 100% honest throughout the whole thing. If I get effed over and I've blown $4200 I'll admit it and admit that I'm a moron for disregarding everyones warnings. If everything goes to plan and it does everything I'm hoping it will do, I'll admit it and will sing the praises of the product and the service I have received so far. On that note, I cannot fault his contact from initial contact to the point of me making the payment. This includes some pretty late hours responses to my fairly confronting questions regarding his ownership of any dramas. So far, so good. Stay tuned for full disclosure!
    5 points
  10. As I had gone to the effort of getting higher end custom coilovers. I wanted to make sure I was setting them up right with the car's main use case in mind. Going fast on track while still being a "street car". Now the following setup guide might be overkill in the information department but i hope it to be useful for anyone looking to do a similar install. That said, my opinions and theories for coilover setup may not align with your own. With that out of the way... The first step was to set the shock body length so that at full bump there wouldn't be any significant interference with the body. To do this I disassembled the coilover, removed the spring and bump stop, fitted the aircup and reassembled the coilover. Without the spring and bump stop fitted, the coilover was put into the car. The LCA was then jacked up so that all of the shocks stroke was used. Then the bottom mount was adjusted so that at full compression the wheel was still able to rotate freely. For the front I also checked clearance throughout the steering arc. Make a note of the total shock body length and do not make this any shorter. As any shorter the wheel would be able to make contact with the body before using all of the available travel. This was done once for the front and rear then the body length copied to the other side. Assuming my guards are flared/rolled/mounted the same… haha… the shock body length is correct to allow for full use of the shocks stroke. Now it was finally time to assemble the coilovers and aircups. The bump stop was cut down with guidance from Shockworks to compensate for the change of usable stroke length. Spring reinstalled. The normal rubber spring locator was unable to be relocated to inside the aircup as the dimensions did not fit. As i did not want metal on metal contact for noise and wear another set of the plastic/teflon washers used on the lower spring seat were placed between the aircup and the spring. Shockworks were able to supply me with another set quickly and at short notice. So shout out again to them. On my particular coilovers the normal spring seat is on the top hat. As the new spring seat is the aircup which has now moved down the coilover to be on the shaft the effective top hat position has been moved by 40mm. As a comparison my old ISC coilovers the spring seat was lower due to the tophat design. Pictured below are two coilovers, one with the air cup and one without. They have the exact same bottom mount position (and shockbody length) with the spring installed with zero preload. It is easy to see how much "max lowness" adjustment you lose (40mm in my case). So the compromise for installing the aircups is: 40mm “max low” lost 20mm stroke lost Now the springs configured were 20mm shorter so effectively that leaves us with: 20mm “max low” lost 20mm stroke lost
    5 points
  11. well, it did take 11 years and the retirement of the stagea from towing now I've go the Titan.... I dropped the stagea off at Unigroup a while back and asked them to freshen up the engine (400,000klm+ on the original head by now) and to put a bigger turbo and stuff on it. Told them I still didn't need it to make 400kw and they obliged. Pretty damn whooshy.
    5 points
  12. Why do Australians love to talk in HP when for everything else we use the metric system? Remember when NASA lost a spaceship because some fk tards at Lockheed Martin decided to send calculations in imperial shit? Space vacuum = 0 kPA Earth = 100 kPA Sick RB = 400kPA It's like when American morons tell you water boils at 212 degrees, just sound so stupid, water freezes at 0 degrees C and boils at 100 degrees C - so logical. HP is like measuring your dick from your arsehole.
    4 points
  13. Fully this. Technology/development has come such a long way in the last few years. Making '1000hp' is much easier than it used to be. Fact is people expect a lot from built engines and they are pushed to the limit. Guess what, they break. They all do. After you have sunk 30k, 40k, 50k (and the rest) and you have a failure, it all becomes very hush hush. People only see the timeslip and ridiculous MPH and think wow. what a street car, when in fact they have lunched multiple engines to get there or have spent another fortune chasing that tenth. Any of these high powered cars are very much not street cars despite what people portray on so social media. Driving it to work once then doing highway pulls on the odd saturday night does not make it a street car. It's a race car with rego plates. If a highway patrol pulled you over, youd be f**ked. Get a billet block, fill it with expensive gear and send 70psi through it. Please tell us how it goes.
    4 points
  14. To be fair, if I was awash with cash from my retail disco-bikkie sales network, I'd be wanting a sequential in my 32. Although, that would prevent me from doing my usual 1 - 3 - 5 or 2 - 4 - 5 traffic shifts.
    4 points
  15. Ran out of brake pads with two sessions to go so missed the chance to have a proper go after getting familiar with the layout and the car...but oh well. There is always next year. You can see the lines of pad material that fell out of the wheels when I returned to the pits.
    4 points
  16. Hi Paul, Thanks for your help, last weekend I went to a drift day. Turned out to almost be a bust up, tried the traction control, pulled the ABS fuse. Car was still doing it. Turned out to be fuel surge, even with a full tank the fuel was still managing to get away from the fuel pickup. Lucky my mate giving me a hand, we removed the factory fuel pump, took the bottom plastic thing off underneath it that I guess is meant to act as a baffle and with some longer fuel hose, lowered the pump a further 120mm into the tank. The fuel sock would be about 10mm off the bottom of the tank (bad idea to make it touch). Went thru 8 tires after that fixed it.
    4 points
  17. Partial to docking myself. Beats an elbow bump, that shit is gay.
    4 points
  18. Long time between drinks! Few things changed since the last post, the car is still going great! November last year I did the tour class of the Adelaide Rally - it was great fun! The car performed great, and was pretty quick with the better suspension and E85 tune making 280kw. Even though it was a Tour class,we did some genuinely quick driving on some awesome roads. The brakes were the weak point,they consisted of the DBA slotted rotors, Intima SR pads and Nulon fluid. It just lacked stopping power - didn't fade too badly, and they did cop quite a workout. Anyhow it finished off those pads and rotors! I ended up grabbing a set of Evo Brembos and the Alpha Omega brackets and lines etc. I fitted these up over New Years this year, and used a set of Intima Type D v2 pads - thanks to Dose for the prompt service. I also grabbed some Porsche GT3 brake guides,which fitted up nicely on the castor rods. The brakes work really well, plenty of power and decent pedal feel. I've also since gone to a GTR style 600x300x100 intercooler, with pipework to suit (across the rad fan). This gained a few kw's up top,but a good amount in the midrange with a nice bump in torque. I know plenty have gone past 300 on the Blitz coolers, but this change was done more to satisfy my curiosity more than anything. It makes the car very punchy on the road now, it comes on with minimal lag and is quite punchy - a good street setup and exactly what I want for events like Adelaide Rally and Track Days. I had to go to 1000cc injectors also, as the 550's ran out of flow There is a little more left in it, but the tuning brief was for a track safe tune with reliability in mind. It hits 20 psi dropping back to 18 at the moment - maybe with a .86 rear on the HKS 2535 it would make 15-20 more? I'll go Hypergear eventually. The change in intercooler meant a change in oil cooler location also,which was a bit fiddly. Removed the washer bottle and located a smaller one inside the engine bay to make way for the intercooler piping also. Pics attached of the bits that have gone on, also running the Sailun AR01 semi's all round - they are great for the money. Adelaide Rally 2020 was supposed to start next week,but has been postponed to March. Looking forward to it! Few pics to update!
    4 points
  19. I'm of the opinion that NA Skylines are only good for LS2 conversions.
    4 points
  20. Private road testing....gave it a little pedal to see how it hooked with the 245/45 17 RE003 and with the aid of 75 litres of fuel in the tank From a dead stop, in D, trac off, "not" in sports mode (because I forgot to hit the button) it just "spun" up through the gears, definitely needs more positive camber, I'm missing a big chunk of traction. I have adjustable camber bushings all ready to go, which are a PITA to install, not sure if it will give me what I want though, which is 0° camber, currently I think I'm at -1.0° IIRC. Meh, fingers crossed I need to get this sorted before I kill a set of drag radials In other news it shifts real nice and doesn't change direction much during the shifts So far so good
    4 points
  21. you know, you should cosinder buying a r33 gtst. they could be fun on a race track! look nice in white
    4 points
  22. As promised install and setup post. This may come in parts The Shockworks coilovers are a very nice quality piece of kit, very beefy and a nice neutral colour Through chatting to them about my goals for the car they were able to offer a custom solution with valving as well as spring rates and lengths (more on that later). they also come with their own install gloves. Very nice touch The Stanceparts aircups kit too is very well made and for those not familiar with them. No, they are not bags. But rather an air piston that essentially replaces your top hat. They are designed to be run in the "down" position and only lifted up to pass obstacles, get on hoists/jacks, and when cruising past rbts... When down they are a solid alloy spacer, this means no squish and the coilovers handle as normal. Now I mentioned spacer, in the down position they are exactly 20mm thick. They sit on the shaft portion of the coilover which means they to take up 20mm of the total stroke. The Shockworks coilover I ordered have a stroke of 100mm, so with the Stanceparts aircup installed that is now 80mm stroke. As the aircup is now the new upper spring seat this means the total "max low" will be reduced by at least 20mm depending on how the coilovers are made. To partially negate this my shockworks coilovers were configured with 20mm shorter springs. The aircup set needed to be ordered to suit correct shaft diameter, in this case 15mm as that's how they seal and fit to the coilover. The maximum lift the aircups can provide is 50mm but this will depend on a number of factors including your setup, spring rate and droop. The reason for this is that the lift actually comes from the droop or wheel extension in your suspension. This is another reason why they are not designed to be driven in the up position long term. When in the up position you will have no droop or wheel extension. Next up the install and setup
    4 points
  23. Will also consider seahorse saddles, Rocking horse shit, and unicorns.
    3 points
  24. Join the SAU Victoria team for a social cruise through the Sherbrook Forest. Initial meeting point will be Upway IGA carpark. The cruise will head through Belgrave and on to Gembrook via the spectacular Sherbrook Forest. Where: IGA Upwey, 62-64 Main St, Upwey VIC 3158 Map: https://goo.gl/maps/17R6emXMEuT71ACo7 When: 8:30am Sunday 29th November Please keep in mind this is an SAU event. To participate you will need to be an existing SAU member or, sign up on the day for 24 hours for a gold coin donation. This is due to our CAMS affiliation. I will also take this opportunity to remind everyone, this isn't a race, it's not a rally, it's a cruise, at or below the speed limit. All details will be passed onto relevant authorities if requested.
    3 points
  25. Well , after a break in and some scum bags stealing a lot of gear from the car I have finally got it back up and running. Took +12 months to replace stolen parts and work around Covid...but....Just in time to make Bathurst last week Tidied upo the engine bay, freshened up the head with some light headwork, new headgasket and oil pump, sump and a lick of paint.
    3 points
  26. Because I'm incredibly gifted at coming up with ways to slow the progress on my car I bought an el Cheapo EBay powdercoat gun so I can have a crack at powdercoating a few more bits and pieces as I go. I've tracked down a 900mm wide oven that should be big enough to fit decent sized parts in. It should fit rocker covers, valley covers and hopefully my turbo dump pipe as I've got some hi temp powder to put on that. I'll do the turbo housings at the same time. It's rated to about 700 degrees C which is probably not enough for a turbine housing and dump pipe but we'll see how we go! Hopefully if it is too hot for the powder it just discolours it rather than peeling off in big chunks. After I get a bit of practice I'll probably powdercoat my wheels as well as they're a little bit chippy and could do with renewing. Shoota's Powdercoating Services ready for business....
    3 points
  27. I hope you take this as friendly advice rather than critisicm, but - move that second element backwards man, I really don't understand this wings-on-wings business that seems to be popping up all over the place. We stopped making bi-planes in the 1930's for good reason haha. Love what I'm seeing everywhere else though! That front bumper is what you need Laine, eh, eh 😉😉🙊😇😇❤ Also because I'm just as proud of the bottom side of that wing as the top:
    3 points
  28. Oh wait no hugs till after covid
    3 points
  29. Come to Adelaide bro, then we can hug it out.
    3 points
  30. hey fellas, my name is petar and Im from Berlin, Germany. I own a full build Silva S15 (ex spec S) with stroked RB26 to 2.8 ltr., ppg straight cut H-box, r35 brakes and lot more goodies 😛 I also bought a bnr32 accidentally these days. was a right offer in the right moment. 🤩 im also on insta @silvia.specrb if someone want so see more pics. there is also a vlog about the build on youtube (unfortunately only in german 😞 ) now Im about to go next step and build a rb32 to drop it into the S-chassis. I would appreciate it if someone guide me a bit into the rb30 world. cheers
    3 points
  31. Arrived today - my personalised glove box wallet from JL Design & Fab ! Very nice quality.
    3 points
  32. I found that the GTR subframe sits approximately 2 inches lower in the car than the GTT sub frame. So what I did was box the end of the sub frame mounts adding that additional 2 inches and contouring it to the frame of the GTT. Then I drilled 1 inch holes through the existing frame rails vertically and sleeved them with a .060 wall tube. I attached the sub frame to the existing frame rails using 1/2 inch grade 8 hardware. Keep in mind that you also need to modify the driver side floor pan as well as the driver side frame rail to except the GTR transmission mount.
    3 points
  33. Was curious how much the NGK racing plugs were, I think i may hold off on purchsae
    3 points
  34. Had a chat to the owner of this GTR yesterday. What an amazing car, it was so quick across the back of the track I couldn't believe how late the breaking was. Unfortunately he was leaving when I finally said g'day so I didn't get much info but no doubt somebody on here knows more about it.
    3 points
  35. @PranK time for a Samsonas, that will fix it.
    3 points
  36. Well, what can I say? I wish I'd done tyres to my old cars rather than other stuff first. I couldn't believe how well the car performed on the RS4's. They just kept holding up all day, I think I did 6 sessions and each session was just so good. In the old days my car would give up after 2 or 3 sessions and even before giving up it wasn't great. The 330 just kept going and holding and not over/under steering (unless I was in too hot). Can't get over how good they are. If R compound tyres are even better then by the time I learn how to drive again I'll have to upgrade. Was so good to be able to trust the tyres and brakes 100%. Neither let go. Awesome. Thanks guys. Looks like I'll be trying to do more track days in the future with the old girl.
    3 points
  37. My version of standard series 3 wheel....
    3 points
  38. More to come but got my first 10sec pass
    3 points
  39. Yeah they work great for having the car at a static low height on the coilover then raising it up for driveways, speedhumps, rbt's
    3 points
  40. Stock valve springs & Japanese branded valve springs are junk (waits for every American to have a sads) Straight up go Supertech or Performance Springs or Kelford Valve springs in the 80lb flavour.
    2 points
  41. If its holding up to 600+ kW in yours then the PAR must be the goods! There's a few guys in NZ running the Speedtek and putting some decent power through them so hopefully it will be all good! My balls are on the line if its not!
    2 points
  42. Heres a pic of the car as it sat a year or so ago. it obviously now has an empty engine bay ready for the vr, only other mod so far is a dc5 integra recaro i picked up off a mate for the drivers seat.
    2 points
  43. 2 points
  44. I really think Vspec is just a joint where people store their GTR's and maybe use them once or twice, but advertise them for stonks. If it sells, great, another sucker. If it doesn't, oh well, its an asset to add to my collection of crumbling new apartment buildings.
    2 points
  45. Time to start marking what goes where and find out what's missing. Was thinking about taking the aircon out, but as I plan to use it on the road, not the track and the fact that it is a Premium, with the dual aircon. I will keep it. I will be swapping stagea front seats in it. I currently have a stagea as mt daily.
    2 points
  46. Sad thing is, with a >500 kw GTR, the driveline costs to do properly just as much as the engine. Anyone can chuck a big turbo at it, making it reliable and useable is a totally different kettle of fish. Diffs (front diff on these things are THE BEST MOD YOU CAN DO), transfer case and box. *insert throwing cash out the window .gif*
    2 points
  47. I assume you're referring to the rocker cover bolts. Was this one if those cheap shitty solid washer type kits that don't use a factory style rubber crush insulator ? If so, there is a reason the factory use these rubbers - to try and prevent overtightening. Also the torque on these is only 2 - 4Nm. Use the new factory stuff instead of the bling stuff - and actually torque them down in sequence. Not that this mattered in this situation with regards to sealing as the rear of your covers were kicked up by the billet half moons not being flush anyway.
    2 points
  48. 2 points
  49. Big development overnight. I am now the owner of a JHH 3.2L bottom end. Nitto 3.2L stroker 9.0 to 1 comp ratio Darton sleeves Block half grout filled JHH billet main caps JHH block brace and AWD adaptor +625 head and rod bolts Uograded pins Bottom end is definitely not the weakest link anymore.
    2 points
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