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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 4 points
    Hi everyone, this is my build #2 R32 GTR V-Spec II that I bought earlier this year at auction in Japan and has almost finished the import process into Perth, WA. It is a very high mileage car but if you ask me it has aged very well and it has been very well looked after up until the previous owner, it has a few Nismo goodies on it already such as Nismo gauges, full Nismo suspension including all the arms and can't forget about the crusty knob. A bit about me, I'm 21, study mechanical engineering at ECU and bought this car as a 21st birthday present to myself after 3 and a half years of hard work and saving up.
  3. 4 points
    Some shots of my new(old) 1997 R33 GT-R Series 3
  4. 3 points
    This is currently on its way to me from Japan however I have decided to sell it as I need the money for other parts. Will fit most Nissan imports and is compatible with hicas. Upgrade from boring normal wheel and keep the srs airbag safety feature. If you don’t like the wood grain it could be covered with carbon or leather by any steering wheel retrim company. Price is $550 inc post slightly negotiable. can ship anywhere in Aus.
  5. 3 points
    The purist were the first thing to come to mind when painting this another colour, but sometimes, you just need to do it for you and only you, at the end of the day you don't need to please anyone else. Thank you so much for your kind feedback!
  6. 2 points
    That is a BW s200sx-e 76MM with a 0.88A/R T4 Twin Scroll do not have all the exact specs as it is at the Fabrication shop being used to check for clearances and fitment on my manifold they are making!
  7. 2 points
    Couple pics from the weekend, now the exterior is done time for “More power baby”
  8. 2 points
    Howdy stranger haven't heard from you in ages[emoji3]
  9. 2 points
    Nismo were fairly lenient on what options we had, though we let them make the majority of the decisions - after all, it is a Nismo restoration. We did convince them to let us change the colour, add the Nismo Carbon Intake Piping Kit - but didn't allow us to add the Nismo Carbon Airbox.
  10. 2 points
    Brakes are not too crazy. Just went with the 350Z Brembo conversion. Pretty easy to do and rotors and pads are easy to get here. Pics will be coming. It had been sitting awhile before I bought it and in need of some attention. It’s in a few pieces right now as I work on it in between work and life.
  11. 2 points
    We couldn't have picked anyone better for the job! Nope, you'll be able to come up close and personal.
  12. 2 points
    I'm no mechanic (IT Support guy), but my impression of engines was that while 150psi is ok if all cylinders perform to this level, but a 20psi difference across the cylinders wasn't great. I believe that you wanted as close a possible compression on each cylinder. Our silver GTR produced 175 across all six cylinders (stock with 10k kms). The variance between cylinders was less than 1psi across all 6. If this were me, i'd be looking to pull the engine down and do rings minimum. (who am I kidding, i'd pay someone).
  13. 2 points
    Yeahnah Only upside, is I have managed to work my way up to a pretty flash building to work in, and scored a fairly consistent rate rise with each move.. Hoping to fund a new "big block" engine for the new bike before years end. 650cc < 835cc
  14. 1 point
    Mashallah, quiet is best (also shows you're an old kient too)
  15. 1 point
    It so quiet 😁 it’s perfect
  16. 1 point
    When I told people my people my best mate was building the exhaust, most of them rolled their eyes. After I showed them the progress photos ive had a few of those people ask me to get a quote to build their exhausts
  17. 1 point
    That's a very tidy exhaust job. I like it!
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    If you don't have Nissan FAST use jp car parts website. It's essentially Nissan FAST online and you can order direct from them in Osaka too.
  20. 1 point
    Absolutely beautiful! Well done and welcome!
  21. 1 point
    255/40/17 is the preferred size but 235/45/17 is alot cheaper. If you want properly good semi slicks go and see the nice folk from Yokohama - A050's. Sizes are: 215/45R17 87W 7.0 - 8.0 216 623 225/45R17 91W 7.0 - 8.5 227 631 235/45R17 94W 7.5 - 9.0 237 642 245/40R17 91W 8.0 - 9.5 252 629 255/40R17 94W 8.5 - 10.0 263 637
  22. 1 point
    Agreed. I don't use ball joint seperator I beat it off. Then I get to work on the car. Surely there are videos on how to seperate ball joints around, try and find them
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Im loving my Nitto NT01's in 245/45/17's on 8' front and 9' rears. Cheapest place I found was St George Tyres in Rockdale. Don't buy them from their ebay store as calling them will get you a better price $240 compared to $269 each. Been told they hold their performance pretty well as they age also.
  25. 1 point
    Stunning - car looks amazing team - well done - a great outcome and another incredible restoration by Omori factory. How were they with the restoration - did you get much choice on what you wanted to do with it, or was it largely a refresh and refurb? Great collectors car that hopefully gets to see more shows and driven a bit. Well done.
  26. 1 point
    Nope, no benefit for motorsport. In road use you could consider it helpful that the water helps bring oil up to temps better but in motorsport you would always warm the engine before racing anyway. On the downside it leaves your oil filter in a difficult position, can fail, and is impossible to clean out if you ever spin a bearing. I would be adding a remote oil filter relocator in it's place.
  27. 1 point
    Will be bringing to boy to watch oil down and other drivetrain lunching shenanigans.
  28. 1 point
    75-80 refers to the viscosity of the oil in "winter" and "summer" respectively. It's a multi-grade oil that changes its apparent viscosity with temperature. When its cold, it acts as if it's a little thinner (the 75) and when it is hot it acts as if it is a little thicker (the 80). The other oil has a wider difference between cold viscosity and hot. So which one you use might depend on where you live and/or how the car is used. If you live in a cold part, you might use the 75-80. If you live in a hot part or the engine and gearbox get driven hard for extended periods (and so dump a lot of heat into the oil) then you might choose the heavier oil. As you say, if your box is in good nick, there's no need to put shockproof in it. Just use the VMX.
  29. 1 point
    Unfortunately wheel was not repairable and wheels had been powder coated, bump if anyone wants a individual wheel for a coffee table
  30. 1 point
    I would be keen if somebody wants to sell me a r32 or 33 cheep cheep
  31. 1 point
    I would hate to see the invoice from Nismo. But well worth the increase in capital gains on a stock Z-Tune.
  32. 1 point
    My current project car is a '92 Supercharged MX5, I've been building it over the past 5 years but sadly its time to move on. Like most, my dream car is an R34, a GTR will always be out of my price range but I would certainly be happy with a GTT. I'd decided the MX5 would be stripped and sold in September when the insurance expires and then start the search for a clean R34. I wouldnt be a true car enthusiast if i wasn't already looking for cars on the interweb with this decision in mind. My fingers were starting to hurt after refreshing various selling and auction sites here and Japan too often. One car I kept being drawn back to was a white Series 2. It ticked all the boxes for what i was looking for, except it was the facelift front bumper that was preventing me from looking deeper into the details. So i messaged the seller and asked for a few more details and photos, very quick responses and the amount of photos asked on request was overwhelming. Was it worth the 7hr round trip to go look at it, to potentially not like it? If it was as clean as it was in the photos, something major must have had been up with it if i was to walk away. Luckily this wasn't the case, infact the car was even better in person. After a test drive and a good poke around i really couldnt fault the car except for a knock on the driver side rear. So with an offer made he accepted and I drove away extremely happy! The 170ish mile drive home was faultless and i look forward to digging in and putting my own stamp on it. It would have been rude to not get some photos, especially with the MX5 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Series 2 RB25DET NEO 6 Manual Transmission Imported in 2016 by IBE Cars in Huddersfield,UK Resprayed in original Pearl White in 2017 Its stock except for a custom turbo back exhaust, HKS mushroom filter and aftermarket stereo
  33. 1 point
    Men don’t leave it stock
  34. 1 point
    Cut the sump and Luke laffan welded it up for me. Moved the pickup to the centre of the pan and have the whole oiling system and parts sorted. Luke is building a 142 rally car, some of you may have seen it on the Facebook pages. it is going to be incredible!
  35. 1 point
    Car looks awesome! last last pic is a pissa!
  36. 1 point
    No dose, blow of valves will be hooked back in
  37. 1 point
    I haven't bought a car from there, but generally no negotiation at the house, they are generous, but the price is the price. I'll shout out if any more pop up. Just be warned not a lot is available for 31s any more - all the rubber seals, lights, badges, external door trims are NLA from Nissan, drive shafts and stub axles are pretty thin on the ground now as well (not an issue if you're not making big power). The bumper vents and lips are NLA (31House has some expensive reproduction ones now, and FRP lips are available). If you do end up looking at one missing a few pieces keep the following in the back of your mind; Manifold and Heat Shield is anywhere from 2-5k, turbo is 1-2k depending on condition (crazy for a T04E), Steering wheel is 1-2k now depending on condition, Vents can be up to $1k from 31House, even little things like the factory gear knob can reach $500 now. Our shit dollar doesn't help at the moment either. I am sure you have seen similar issues with the DR30 however. Hoping the HR31 gets picked up under the Nismo Heritage program in the future, but I wouldn't hold my breath.
  38. 1 point
    Very flasyh, did you make those or buy them? The brake/tail light LED's look interesting.
  39. 1 point
    Yes, absolutely. At least when it is actively controlling boost. I think if the gap is wide enough to leak noticeably during spool, that it will kill spool (compared to having the WG held closed by the controller, like it is supposed to be). And after tightening it back up and having it feel a little better coming on boost, it was probably leaking enough. Most of the time yes. I don't have anywhere near as much power as many on here have, but even that is enough to cost a great deal in tyres and -ve attention from the guys who drive the unmarked cop cars.
  40. 1 point
    I think you're about 10 years too late. Back into the time machine you go!
  41. 1 point
    With due respect, this is simply wrong. My experience from this conversion, the trans went into limp mode and was stuck in third all other gears except reverse were unavailable.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Hello guys and gals! My name is Luis and and I am a proud happy owner of a 1995 BCNR33 Midnight Purple V-spec GT-R. I currently live in Zushi Kanagawa Japan and love driving my car around Yokohama and Tokyo area. I can't wait to do a full restoration on the car in a few years to come. Current mods are: EXPREME Ti TITANIUM exhaust JUNYAN LED tail lights 400R style front lip and side skirt GReddy PRofec boost controller GReddy turbo timer Trust GReddy AIRINX B Type Intake Filter I look forward to keeping you all updated on my future additions to my car.
  44. 1 point
    Yellow is the best. My wife thinks not but I like it 🤣
  45. 1 point
    Bought mine in Florida second usa owner traded my evo 9 for it (I know I know) car was in about 6 out of 10 condition I'd like to say its mechanically about an 8 out of ten now the frames got some dents the quarters both have rot and its definatley been painted and hit in the front and rear turbos blew after I got it home spent last summer swapping in newer stock units diff was leaking sealed it and refill bleed, driver axle CV boot was gone rebooted that replaced inner tie rods then it broke after that and couldn't figure out why for a while turns out rat chewed thru the hot wire on the CAS to ecu somewhere now it's a kill switch lol no stereo when I got it now its 2 amps around 1500 watts with old school jlw3 15 built into the trunk hits hard, decided to rewire the fuel pump with new relay and 255 Wally, replaced fuel filter and sock new ignitor harness and splitfires, headlights were hacked and the hazards didnt work now it's all sorted didnt have license plate lights wired those up painted alot under the hood to more stockish colors, just bought a gates timing belt kit and OEM water pump, oil seals and all new hardware, should be ready to do it in the next few weeks. All in all I knew what I was getting into if I was to do it again I would have waited for a better one but honestly I enjoy it because it's not perfect so I'm not scared to use it. The evo was alot faster but we will get there after all the wear and tear is sorted. Next stop power fc 1000cc injectors and r34 spec turbskis.
  46. 1 point
    Here's one for my haltech homies. It was a bit of an expensive exercise but I had to try it. I ground out the inside of the gauge holder to fit them in then made a plate to house them. Turned out allright I guess.
  47. 1 point
    Finally had my r33 on rollers again. 2 years ago dynoed 440 hp @ 1.6 bar of boost (328kw @ 23psi) with what turned out to be a significant boost leak (vacuum nipple on/under throttle body wasnt blocked). Anyway now with the boost leak sorted (and new bypass etc) I hit 553 hp and 725nm at 1.55 bar (412 kW @22.5 psi)! Over 100 more hp with less boost! Wohoo 4 years ago when I started designing my setup my goal was a responsive 500-550hp so Im super happy hits full boost somewhere around 3500 rpm from what i can tell while driving. Rb25/30 (refreshed bottom by garage-d) Athena head gasket Arp bolts Reimax gears on stock pump Baffled sump oil cooler with thermostatic plate, filter recolation Holset He351w 14 cm with iwg welded shut Turbosmart progate 50 Sinco twin scroll manifold Freddy intake with stock throttle body 3,5" exhaust (wg joins exhaust after downpipe) 600x300x80 mishimoto intercooler VAG coils 1100 asnu injectors 450 walbro Gfb 33mm bypass Pmas hpx n1 MAF in 3" intake Pipe Nistune Gfb ge-force 2 ebc 98 pump Fuel Im sure Im forgetting alot. Was running into some issues with the ebc not reacting very well to duty changes (0 duty cycle gave 1 bar and 100 got us 1.05 bar). Had to install a restrictor before ebc solenoid and even with that now running 99 duty cycle. Well, it works and I dont think any more boost wouldve helped. And with stock pistons/rods it better to be on the safe side.
  48. 1 point
    This. Can't talk about your car without pics, its not allowed. And welcome!
  49. 1 point
    The car is booked in next week for a full service inc cambelt,waterpump and all fluids changed,along with a set of Meister R coilovers and alignment
  50. 1 point
    You need to find the workshop manual for your engine. There's a whole lot of extra stuff other than removing bolts, inserting new camshaft, doing bolts back up again. My manual was $500ish from importdriver.com.au but you _may_ be able to find a .pdf floating around the Internet somewhere. If it's an RB26, the manual on pp EN-71 - EN-76 describes the camshaft removal/install procedure. You of course need to _get_ to the cams first, via removing a whole bunch of other things ACCORDING TO NISSAN: REMOVAL (for RB26) EN-71 has a diagram showing the cam bracket removal order. Mark the cam brackets to indicate position and direction. Then remove the cam bracket bolts by loosening them gradually in several stages (the do-up recommendation is 1.5 turns at a time, so I'd use this for removal) in REVERSE OF THE SEQUENCE shown below. FRONT 1 5 9 13 11 7 3 2 6 10 14 12 8 4 (whole bunch of other stuff snipped, read it in the manual). So according to the manual, to undo, you start in the centre and work your way out a little at a time, to do up you start at the ends and work your way inwards 1.5turns at a time. Regards, Saliya
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