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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Managed to get out and clean the car today. Just a small update, have slowly been getting used to it. Still havent tried high boost but car was serviced and is now running descent rubber all around. Got recommended from a mate to try Potenza RE003's. And can say that the difference is night and day and they are a great tyre for sure. Car feels so good to drive and even manage to have traction in Second Gear. Over all am loving it ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Cant wait to try the high boost at some point.
  2. 4 points
  3. 3 points
    Not much happening lately just been chilling. Got my motor back few weeks ago with a couple upgrades on it. As you can see in the 3rd pic blocks now grouted for street use. Should strengthen her up a bit for when we try push close to 1200hp out of it. Just a bitta safety and peace of mind. Put in a -12 block breather to relieve crank case pressure to help let the oil drain down quicker and also stop my dipstick from being ziptied in 😂 I finally got it on the stand and started chipping away at everything I could do on it before head goes on. Just need to get some sealant and couple gaskets and the bottom end will be ready to go again. Also borrowed some 275s off a mate and sorta managed to squeeze them in. They are very tight and I'm not sure if they'll clear once the tyre gets some heat into it. Along with some cheap adjustable coilovers I got so I can play around with ride heights with hopes to get it to distribute weight a bit better and get some more bite on the tyres.
  4. 3 points
    Yes the R32 GTR ECU most certainly wants the 32 Titania version. There is a different setting in the Power FC to change in the ETC menu for the O2 sensor reg setting depending on R32 Titania or R33 Zirconia sensors. From Apexi: There is a difference in the O2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register) After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33. So off (+ sign) for R33 O2 sensors. I have my BCNR33 set like this in my Apexi Power FC. I don't know how the Haltech Elite deals with it as I have no narrowband O2 sensors fitted on my 32 (use CAN wideband) and have them turned off in the ESP software. Nistune is also onto this, here's what they have to say: NIStune Using R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR - Updated The R32 ECU is a plug-in job and works seamlessly in the R33 except that they use different O2 sensors (and heaters for the O2 sensors are wired differently). Both easily fixed. Sensors: R32 uses a titania sensor. These sensors don't produce a voltage themselves - they're resistive. So resistance changes between rich and lean. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. R33 uses a zirconia sensor. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. When running these sensors with an R32 ECU you'll find that they still work but the voltage range is different (read lower). The lean/rich trigger voltages must be adjusted using NIStune. Monitor the voltages in NIStune and adjust the rich/lean trigger voltages as required. Sensor heaters: R32 runs the heaters whenever IGN power is on. R33 ECU controls the heaters itself by supplying GND (the heater has 12V supplied to the other side whenever IGN is on) to turn heaters on. So what we need to do is supply GND to the heaters so they operate the same as R32 - they're on whenever IGN is on. This is done inside the ECU by linking O2 sensor GND (pin 50) to the pin used for heater GND by the R33 ECU (pin 115). R32 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 50. R33 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 115. On R32 GTR ecu pin 115 is not connected. On R33 GTR ecu pin 115 provides heater ground. So to provide this GND using the R32 ECU we simply need to bridge pin 50 to 115 with a wire link. http://nistune.com/docs/R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf
  5. 2 points
    Look, if afrs are fine, they're fine. It doesn't matter if injectors are maxxed or fuel pressure is not ideal, whatever. And, so what. If there was not enough fuel to achieve correct mixtures, because of a low pressure situation, the base fuel map would have to be run higher than expected, and expected duty % would be higher, which you would see you are doing in the tuning software. If the system can achieve say 12:1 afr at full load and that's what your tuning to that's what it is. You are somehow implying that you can have spot on air / fuel ratios but still be not delivering enough fuel, which is not possible. Logging the fuel pressure and the injector duty % will give the answers to how maxxed pump is.
  6. 2 points
    Also started to tidy up the interior. The original steering wheel was past its used by date and was really becoming an eye sore I managed to find one that while it isn’t perfect it was about 95% and a huge improvement over the old oneI’m thinking about getting the original reupholstered and putting it back on
  7. 2 points
    The tuner figured out OP needs a cooler and valve springs. I think it's pretty obvious those two items are getting the no confidence vote here.
  8. 2 points
    It is indeed. I'm starting to realise i'm not as difficult to find online as I thought... 😂
  9. 2 points
    Hi everyone, I used to be on these forums quite a bit going back 6-10ish years ago when I had my R33 GTST (avatar) and this was a great place where I found guides on how to do everything imaginable, and really as a 19 year old with no previous mechanical knowledge that was what taught me how to work on cars. I lost my licence being silly (well ended up on 12 month good behaviour...) so I sold the skyline and drove boring cars for a couple of years. After about 4 years I ended up with a stock Forester XT that was only ever meant to be a bit of a fun car, but that turned into a beast as now I've done every possible bolt-on mod (big turbo, big intercooler, full exhaust, intake and heaps of smaller supporting mods) for and almost doubled it's power (127kw -> 214kw). I also bought a motorbike to commute as fuel was adding up. Long story short we moved closer to my work again and when I listed the bike for sale, someone offered me a S1 Stagea RS4 auto awd as a swap... after thinking about it and going to inspect it we went ahead with the trade. The Stagea was definitely not in showroom condition but did have a few things done to it like a rebuilt motor which interested me and of course I saw the potential of the RB25DET Anyway it's good to be back... I'll shortly go ahead and make a build journal here, which is the best place to do that? Are members galleries a used thing these days or am I better off making a thread in a specific forum?
  10. 2 points
    Mate you are shameless, you have changed half the engine bay components, but for two years you didn't check the fuses. Incredible.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Very minor update. It drives. Drove it approx 10m out the back to give it a wash. Still a few things to sort out, like rusty rotors, ordered the rest of my exhaust components today, a dual flow meter setup for my tig regulator so I can back purge this exhaust, double check everything and off to get a tune. Thanks for reading 😁
  14. 1 point
    Pretty much finished off the wastegate merge. Man what a mission I made that into.... I reckon i put 5 or 6 hours into that section alone 😳 Lucky I'm enjoying it! Such a sense of achievement each time I finish each section.
  15. 1 point
    If you can find a couple of nuts that will fit on wind them both on. hold the bottom one and tighten the top one - really tight . Then put a spanner on the bottom one and undo...supposing that you have the room to do this.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    They can be used to adjust your warp drive
  19. 1 point
    Hey guys, some more updates, mainly around wiring. I sussed out my inputs/outputs that were left over, there was enough to setup traction control and put both launch control and traction control on an 'on/off' switch. So I thought I might as well take full advantage of all the ECU functions. I am using the OEM rear demister switch for the launch control (which is no longer functional) and plan on sourcing another for the traction control. The heater box is back in, all the interior wiring has been wrapped in braid for extra protection, the dash crash bar/center console brackets have all been rubbed back and painted black due to surface rust. All the interior is being pieced back together now. Anyway, enough writing and more photos.
  20. 1 point
    Wait, his question could be read both ways!!! Maybe he wants to turn a GTR into a GTT?? Very novel idea, obviously not done before or often enough....attain that certain uniqueness, baffle the rivet counters at car shows, do a build thread and discuss the challenges, lead the way!!!
  21. 1 point
    The best GTR conversion kit is called Carsales.com.au. You click 'SELL' on the GTT and then click 'BUY' on the GTR, job done! Approx cost at the moment is $45,000 for you to send in your GTT and they send you back the GTR!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Might as well run a stock cat, probably flows as much as that Apexi over priced haram cat lol
  24. 1 point
    I will just leave this here.... https://www.google.com.au/url?q=https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275003-power-fc-boost-control-problems/&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwi94LOcnYvlAhXLfH0KHQnQA0UQFjAKegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1J7_FcGHgsnQ2az9CtrPHA So have you dropped the cat yet ?
  25. 1 point
    A little bit more information I'd like to share with you guys. The P12 SR20VE uses top feed fuel injectors, anyhow a good mate of mine has a flow bench/cleaning station ultrasonic cleaning bath. The engine was in fantastic condition when I stripped it for inspection and to fix the oil weep from the timing cover. However we thought it'd be best, considering how clean everything went back together to clean and flow the injectors, as a precaution. He did really well, managed to get all 4 injectors spot on.
  26. 1 point
    Yes that's it. Amayama have the speed sensor but not the drive cog, now just google the part number and you will find other suppliers who do have stock, (Concord parts USA have stock)the 21 tooth drive cog was used on many different Nissans No-one ever said finding parts for 23 year old JDM vehicles would be easy.
  27. 1 point
    Is this the one? https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/3274371t21
  28. 1 point
    That's a big milestone, well done. The fact you got it running first go is testament to your had work and attention to detail. One mis-terminated plug wire is nothing.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply, Yes its occurs once in two years. This time my school taking us. Yeah there are other events like drifting. Those are cool.
  30. 1 point
    Something is wrong but its not the intercooler. I have a stock r32 rb26 making 245rwkw on e85(12psi). And an rb26 with single turbo making 520rwkw(26psi) with the stock r32 gtr intercooler. I would be doing check for boost leaks, rag in the intercooler piping, timing off , timing belt off and compression on motor. Even on pump fuel 20psi with those turbos should be a lot more. Oh and double check you actually have gt-ss turbo's I'd also consider another tuner, specially if he offered to sell you an intercooler
  31. 1 point
    lol just like the workshop manual says. the only things worth mentioning are dropping the rear of the gearbox by lowering (but not removing) the gearbox cross member bolts, will make getting to the top bolts much easier (either from above, or by using a set of long extensions while standing at the rear of the gearbox), and of course the engine has to be on the exact sample angle as the gearbox/input shaft when you get to the last couple of cm. BTW I hope the mechanic is mates rates if they needed to get you to ask this...
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Pull the seat off and have a look. Something might've broken/jammed in there *captain obvious flies away*
  34. 1 point
    I wouldn't rely on a single intake fuel pump on a S13 to be supplying fuel on the track. You'll get into surge issues. Just leave the current setup and box it up like you've mentioned earlier.
  35. 1 point
    Take it back to the reco merchant who built it and ask him nicely to fix it (ie install 5th gear selector fork) I have found taking my 6 foot 4 110kg son with me on these missions gets fast positive action.
  36. 1 point
    Cranks are same. Spigot bush pressed in the back of it is different for auto/man. I'm not absolutely sure with RB25s, but at least with R32 RB20s, the autos ran at 20° idle timing and the manuals at 15°. This needs to be set correctly with a timing light (obviously enough) and is something that should be carefully checked if doing a swap such as you're describing, in case you end up with a manual ECU thinking it is set at 15° when the CAS is set to give 20° and the extra 5° turns up in the timing at peak torque.
  37. 1 point
    My wife and I took our cars out to a night meet at Docklands Costco (Cars and Coffee). It was absolutely packed. I had no idea how many cars would show up, turned out hundreds... It was a pretty good mix of cars, if they could just lose the people who show up in stock Commodores and Falcons with straight through exhausts it would be perfect. The GTRs got a lot of love while we were there, and the silver one picked up a very slight scratch in the rear bar (sigh). I'm sure it's only the clear top coat, but it's still annoying as hell. Anywho, pictures (not all mine btw):
  38. 1 point
    Sorry Ben, you are completely wrong the de auto R33 is a 5 speed or 4 speed. Only turbo's and very late de's are 4 speed.
  39. 1 point
    PM sent. Brakes seem good be nice to try... big step from my R34 Brembo's / project my rotor and pads combo but honestly they more than do the job for a sprint and havent failed me yet - if it wasnt tapped in the head and chasing tenths Id be more than happy to leave them as is. Plus Im running up to 633 hp now so pushing it a bit I do hold 4th twice past shift change (at 7K) at the end of the front straight and down to the bowl at Barbs for too long but thats so I dont lose time changing to 5th, down the back straight its just flashing up shift change just before I brake New brakes hopefully brake a bit later so tatics might have to change a bit for the holding in 4th gear ratio calcs at 7k rev say 4th tops out at 214kmph and i consistently see just over 200's when holding and have seen 211 once. 5th cals top out at 255kmph and I see low / mid 240's with high at 248kmph .. actual track data - was interesting as its pretty close cals to practical...but yes there is no room left so Diff guru over here thinks a 3.7 - but they also said I couldnt mash the loud peddle out of corners on full power and put it down... but i can
  40. 1 point
    Your afrs as per the above chart don't look too bad. But regarding plug gap your tuner is flat out wrong. Factory is 1.1mm or .043 inches and people with beefed up ignition systems can run that gap ok. With Splitfires and a decent amount of boost gapping down to 0.8mm or .032 inches works ok. But .5mm is getting ridiculous. There are literally thousands of RBs running in Australia and New Zealand and tuners have over two decades of data to work with and I don't think you would find one among them who would think you should gap down to .5mm Also remotely accessing your ecu and playing with the maps without any monitoring equipment is not proper tuning.
  41. 1 point
    I suggest you get a proper ECU, rather than a Bee*R rev limiter which would eventually blow apart your turbo, drive train and the works. It's merely a terrible hack/interceptor for bangs and wank.
  42. 1 point
    WOW, what a difference Dyno is saved file from pre-tune in March to 8 psi boost now, WOW Car is as responsive as farrrrk, pulls hard, WOW Most importantly is that cold start is not as loud, the turbo has done its main job at muffling the exhaust..........😜 Shiny clamps is the only giveaway Down there somewhere Pretty black So far the rods are still in one piece
  43. 1 point
    This has been discussed AD NAUSEUM in the last 6 pages mate, you could at least read them. (Ad nauseam is a Latin term for argument or other discussion that has continued to the point of nausea. For example, "this has been discussed ad nauseam" indicates that the topic has been discussed extensively and those involved have grown sick of it.)
  44. 1 point
    I'm more looking forward to the first time the Mrs hears it, she is going to be well pissed off......her reaction should be pretty funny. I will just explain that it needed the turbo to quiten down cold start. That reaction should be pretty sweet as well. God bless her, and may god have mercy on my soul.
  45. 1 point
    It so quiet 😁 it’s perfect
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I know a guy in the ukrane that is rebuilding his RD28 based RB30. He is using a Nitto RB30 90mm crank this time. The last engine made upwards of 1200-1300hp, and ran 8's in an R33 GTR shell. In the end a piston cracked and let go, resulting in a rod leaving sideways through the block. Only the cams survived, everything else was a total loss. This is generally the result of any failure in a high power engine. Small issues become big issues very quickly, and then its all over. He used an RD28 because RB30's aren't available over there. The extra water jacketing around the outside of the block makes the more rigid for sure, but the cylinders aren't any thicker than an RB26/RB30 block once bored from 83 to 86mm. They are about 92-94mm OD at most. That being said the rigidity the water jacketing adds around the block would do wonders to greatly reduce twist induced block cracking. I believe his RD was also 1/2-3/4 grout filled. Cooling wasnt an issue as he ran methanol. No thermostat and an electric water pump with a resivour was the extent of the cooling system. No radiator. Running no more than about 60 seconds from burnout to finish line helped too. I see one other advantage to using the RD28 block as well. The Rb30's are getting more and more scarce. Using an RD28 allows blocks to be scavenged from a whole lot more patrols as well as the ford mavericks. If I can find some more pictures of his engine I'll post them up.
  48. 1 point
    Item: ARC Super Induction Box Age: NEW Condition: NEW and unused - still wrapped in plastic! Price: $600 + postage if you can't pick it up To Fit: R33 GTR Location: Melbourne, VIC Contact: James - PM or 0438 272 835 Comments: Bought this brand new but have decided to stick with the stock air box hence it is up for grabs. It is still wrapped in plastic, has all bolts, brackets, filters - everything for a bolt on and go for the R33 GTR. I did read the manual, or at least try to read it, and is the only item that isn't in plastic. (See pics) I paid well over $600 for it, if you make me an offer I may knock it back - I'm already making a big loss on it. Happy to answer any questions or provide more pics.
  49. 1 point
    Yes, GT-T win hands down... extreme weight advantage anywho... it's been pretty much a full year now since deciding on a Skyline for my 2nd car, and if i had it my way i'd have my ass in a R33 since about Nov/Dec last year... but there were certain... complications. The upside is that i've had all this time to save up and only a few months away, budget wise, from entering R34 GT-T terrority (low 30k's). But my dad has said that he'd be keen to go halves in an aparment. So half deposit, half the loan. As i'm only 19, this is where i'm gonna need ur advice guys and gals. I earn approx $1500 month NET (maybe a touch more). The type of apartments we were looking at were around $450K, so after paying deposit, i'd have a loan of about $200K for my half. But it would be an investment property, so i'd have ppl renting it. Hopefully nearly paying off the loan payemnts. So these are some options. 1. Just get a GT-T and don't have a huge loan hanging around. Cos i'd own the GT-T outright. 2. Just get an apartment... be smart, think ahead... yada yada, all that responsibility crap 3. Get apartment AND R34 GT-T, but add extra $35K onto the loan for the car and get renter ppl to pay off both. Of course i'd have to make up some difference each month, but hopefully it wouldn't be too much. So yeah, what do ya think ppl? Cos i really have no idea and if i decide getting the GT-T i'd like to take advantage of the good exchange rate and also the decreased demand at Japanese auctions currently cheers guys.
  50. 0 points
    Not good. Few things to note and also check. - Everyone who entered the R34 Mines giveaway should check their credit card statements. Get your mates to check too. Depending on which package you selected, you may have been unknowingly put into a subscription trap. The ACCC have made it clear these are unlawful : https://www.accc.gov.au/media-release/accc-warns-consumers-to-beware-of-subscription-traps - here you will find examples of other $49.99 traps where the advertisement has not disclosed there will be separate unsolicited charges made. -You'll find after the original purchase, you are prompted an offer for "Get another 5 entries for 49.95" if you went for the offer advertised "For 49.95", your credit card was then charged every month $49.99 with unsolicited charges - At the time of selecting your package, during the R34 giveaway, where you opted to pay an extra $49.95 for 5 entries, it did not mention this charge was recurring and that there were additional charges - Monthly recurring charges of $49.99 have been done, even after the R34 was given away these continued. - No receipts emailed or proof to show what you were charged, and that recurring charges were happening
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