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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 2 points
    It's not a workshop or a "tester". There are engineers listed on the RTA (insert name of bunch of arseholes in your state) website that are permitted to certify vehicle modifications. These are real automotive engineers, not mechanics, that know what has to be done/tested/proven to ensure that any proposed modification is safe and legal. You contact one of these guys and you start paying him as a professional for his consultation and ultimately his certification.
  3. 1 point
    GTS/GTST sedan and coupe are all the same unit.
  4. 1 point
    If i was you i would use this Bosch 040 injector and something like the new Walbro 525 with a higher base pressure and you should be good to go.
  5. 1 point
    Won't post where this was parked in case it's a regular visitor there - I wouldn't want a beautiful thing stolen and f***ed up by the scum of society. But lovely LM!
  6. 1 point
    Looks good! Would have thought a Link ECU would do all you want for less than Motec prices...
  7. 1 point
    Congrats on the sale mate, so what's next on the the car agenda?
  8. 1 point
    OK, here's an exercise for you. Go dip a vinyl glove. Let it dry. Put it on. Scrunch your fingers. What do you think will happen to the dip? Really? What do you think will happen? Wheels are rigid surfaces. Door trims are NOT. They are vinyl backed by polyurethane foam to give them the "soft touch" experience that people want. If you want the tacky tacky experience of carbon fibre dipped door trims, tou would first have to remake the door trims out of something hard, like ally, or fibreglass.....or carbon fibre.
  9. 1 point
    I just dropped by to say I'm surprised how civil this all is....keep up the good work a -5 power thread in forced induction is like throwing e85 on a fire normally
  10. 1 point
    There has been much debate as to what exactly it is that causes the RB series motors to hunt at idle, the solutions/problems I have come across in my reading include: 1) Dirty/ Faulty AFM 2) Vacuum Leak 3) Dirty/non functioning AAC valve 4) Dirty/non functioning idle bypass screw, which is part of the AAC assembly 5) Faulty O2 sensor 4) Faulty Spark (be it coils or plugs or both) 5) Faulty cold start idle assembly 6) Faulty water temperature sensor (which can apparently open and close the AAC to compensate for the cold start valve, this is just hersay thou) 7) Non standard BOV leaking to atmosphere 8) Faulty strength of signal being sent from computer to activate idle setting on fuel pum (ie under fueling engine) 9) Faulty TPS setting or signal output 10) Dirty or sticking throttle body. 11) Bad seal or no seal to top of motor (ie, oil filer cap not closed or broken etc) Pretty much everyone of these items I can think of have been blamed for bad idle/ Hunt, and each person seems to have their own results with fixing various items. Personally I ran DIY on cleaning your AAC valve assembly, and it seemed to have fixed my problem, but judging by the amount of problems and potential fixes, i am unsure if this will help you. Btw its in the DIY section if you want it. What we need is to all get together in a workshop with a couple of skylines with this problem and work on them until we find the faults for sure and document the process. You never know we may single handedly find the biggest eluding problem to skyline drivers known to SAU!
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