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  1. 1: put car in shipping container addressed to either CRD or Maatooks 2: sign blank cheque and place in car 3: sit back and twiddle thumbs till car returns
    8 points
  2. Labour. See below, that's how. If your asking on how to build 1200hp your not building it yourself are you ? It's not "just" engine, it's the whole car that needs to be addressed, while paying someone else to do it.
    7 points
  3. Tuesday this week saw the gearbox finally arrive! The shifter assembly is currently being anodised at PRP - and show be on its way tomorrow. New OS Giken R4C quad plate clutch is on it way from Japan and should be here next week. New Haltech Elite 2500 purchased. EFR 8474 is currently being sourced. All going together mid next month..... should be a responsive street monster
    6 points
  4. See the dipshits that burnt the AMG they won from these guys? Lol
    6 points
  5. You have 15k worth of fuel systems in 2 300kw cars. 🧐 They definitely weren't needed in your situation. 1x $280 525 Walbro in each car woulda been fine. Even NASA woulda approved!
    5 points
  6. Is it just me or does anyone else think that looks shit ?
    5 points
  7. Took the engine out yesterday, and since there have been a few discussions about it lately I thought I'd share how I did it. I'm no mechanic and had no hoist this time; no doubt others will do it faster or slower, this took me 5 hours. Probably would have gone a little quicker but I had a stripped nut on the LCA ball joint and the exhaust was damaged and jammed where the tree hit the quarter panel. Disconnect battery (thanks Ben!) Drain radiator, front diff, sump. I've got an old blanket that I chucked under them all because the coolant in particular never co-operates and who wants to lie around on old car fluids for the rest of the day? Back off alternator and power steering adjusters, take belts off Remove airbox, AFM, intake pipes including BOV return balance pipe. Hose pliers like these really help to not damage stubborn hoses (and hands) Remove radiator with shroud on, fan and fan belt out the top Remove blow off valve pressure feed, main earth, boost solenoid (boost solenoid goes out with the engine) Remove fuel lines and throttle cable. Block fuel lines with 8mm bolt and label them to save trouble on re-install! Remove brake and clutch vacuum booster line and any other vacuum lines eg boost controller or MAP sensor pressure Remove starter motor and alternator wiring Remove injector (etc) wiring on top of the engine and move out of way. These bent nose pliers are handy with both nissan breather spring clips and those nasty little spring clips on injectors Remove oil cooler lines. I have a connection where they run under the chassis rail from the engine adapter plate to the thermostat that makes this much easier. Removing lines from an adapter plate on the engine is somewhere between hard and impossible depending on space. Then on to the stuff where I wish I had a hoist.... Remove Zorst mid pipe and rear pipe. For me that includes the wide band 02 sensor in the front pipes Remove LH driveshaft (I did actually forget this step until I was trying to lift the engine....) Remove RH driveshaft. This can be a major pain but it went OK for me this time. I removed split pin, undid hub nut with rattle gun, removed washer. Then undid 19mm bolts holding lower control arm ball joint to the upright and removed the shock and sway bar (seems like a lot of undoing but it makes removing the hub end of the cv easier). Removed hub end of the cv. Then, using a large pry bar I pried the diff end out of the diff housing. After it had moved a little, I backed out one of the diff cover bolts so that I could keep prying (the lip on the cv is pretty small. Remove starter motor (14mm stubby ratchet, use a piece of rope looped around it to pull from below if it's too tight) Remove front drive shaft Jack under the gearbox cross member, remove cross member bolts and drop as low as possible without putting strain on the ATTESSA feed Undo 8 bolts holding engine to gearbox. With the rear of the gearbox low you can run a set of long extensions (1 use 4x 3/8) to get a 14 socket above the gearbox to the top bolts. All the rest are straightfoward. Undo engine mounts. Attach lifting crane, lift out of engine mounts, then pull forward until the (extended) sump is about to hit the sway bar, then up higher to clear the sway bar (by now the input shaft is out of the spigot bearing), then forward until the balancer just clears the radiator support, then up and out. While still on the hoist, remove clutch cover, clutch, flywheel and engine plate, then bolt onto engine stand and job done.
    5 points
  8. Just got the car back The team at Graigs automatics were great to deal with The 600hp build consists of: Sungear shell with roller bearing Kolene dual cage sprag hub Friction capsule Gaskets, seals and rings Craigs Stage 2 shift kit Hi energy uprated spring kit Heavy duty bush kit Machined pump stator Machined band drum brake Needle washer kit Billet forward accumulator piston Billet 2nd gear servo TH400 4th gear super hold servo Molded steel clutch pack pistons High energy kevlar band Input drum strengthening kit Inspected and cleaned Service hi-stall converter Also ordered a new radiator plastic cover and a stock airbox, the current OTR intake isn't going to work with......the HTV2300 that will be getting installed soon SEND IT
    5 points
  9. Been quiet for the past couple of months and haven’t really driven the car much. I have bought a couple of goodies though. First thing I did was buy some wind deflectors. These were more to cover the window trims that are starting to crumble up a little bit. Also gave the car a good wash! Next thing on the list was an IC-7 dash. I ordered it and got impatient so I designed and printed a new surround before I even had the dash in my hands. Happy to say it fit perfectly first time! I’ve only tweaked one layout soo far. Need to figure out how to get the fuel working (it worked on my haltech/racepak iq3 street dash so I’m sure it’s just a setting that I’ll have to tweak. Really happy with how it looks though, looking forward to having a needle to read for speed rather than numbers! And the ability to fully customise layouts. Will have a proper tinker over the weekend. Anyway, enough chatting, here’s the photos...
    4 points
  10. it's a service button. Automatically drops the engine and gearbox out when doing a major service; the icon is a warning to stand clear. Wouldn't press it if i was you.
    4 points
  11. Sounds like something someone with only 500hp would say
    4 points
  12. Tis true, we have bought a house. I finally have a shed to play in. Only thing is I cant get the skyline in yet due to the slab being a bit high. Need to get some timbers down so I can drive in but she's happy in the garage for the time being 😂 Not much has happened lately, I did order some new wheel nuts and traction rods from GKtech with hopes to get these 275s clearing. Got them installed on Saturday, havent driven her yet but will need to get my alignment touched up. Has a fair bit more clearance on the inside guard at the front where it was rubbing so fingers crossed they will be ok now. Also ordered a fan and shroud for my oil cooler. Hopefully that will arrive this week and I can start putting it on and wiring the fan to the ecu. I will be moving my trans cooler to the passenger side and wiring that to the ecu as well for full control instead od 24/7 while ignition is on. Aiming to get it all done by the 27th so I can go to my first roll racing in over a year now... 20210126_184657.mp4 20210130_141748.mp4
    4 points
  13. Since the car will be at a panel shop for the repairs, I've decided to take the engine and and put the spare engine in. I've had the spare on a stand for a while and since I've got the haltech doing logging these days I can see the oil pressure isn't great in the current motor (runs between 50-60psi hot, running 20w50). So first, jack up your car.....the quickjack is a good thing but definitely no hoist, I really miss having a shed tall enough for one of those.... I actually started with the interior because I need to make some further wiring changes. No real mistakes, just things I didn't think about when I did the wiring the first time. So, after the required number of sacrifices to the cable tie gods in the hot shed.... ....the wiring is out from the cabin again. Took a few hours but much much quicker than when I pulled the factory stuff out
    4 points
  14. Well, I had a thread before I bought asking if anyone on here had a Fuga Hybrid, looks like not. It's not really what I would have gone for but was the best compromise under the new import rules I could find from nissan to replace my highway cruisy Cima which has given me 300,000 happy wafting klm. I took the plunge anyway and bought this car in September for $1.54M yen, auction rating 4.5B. It took about 3 months to find one in white, with a sunroof, in good condition. Had 55,000klm (matches last dereg certificate) and was brokered by Geoff at Prestige Motorsport who did a great job. Final cost on road in Aus was just under $33k which is a lot considering the Cima was about $10k when I got it, but obviously awesome value compared to what you can get locally for $33k (Mazda CX-30 anyone?)
    3 points
  15. Some more results to share, R34 GTR test and tune, I've had this cars in storage for awhile, if you did spent 250K for a fully unmolested stock one today you will be horribly disappointed with its performance. Stock twins with upgraded cooler, exhaust, and intake managed to pull 238awkws at 15psi, with help of a PS2000 it managed 272awkws @ 17psi, Not fast at all. after getting chopped by a Supercharged TRD Camry, I've decided to do some work to it. And I still believe Rb25dets/Neo are way better engines. Looking into further developments in T4 printed turbos. First up is a ball bearing ATR45SS-1 turbocharger in a custom T4 .86 Vband rear housing. Stock Rb26 engine is now fitted with: APR head studs HKS Cam gears +9" inlet, 0 exhaust. R35 GTR coil packs CAS Trigger kit Haltec PS2000 ECU ID 1650cc injectors Twin 540 Walbro pumps+11m fuel line Nismo Front mount cooler T4 high mount exhaust manifold HyperGear 50mm External gate HyperGear ATR45SS1 T4 .86 rear 3 inches Trust turbo back exhaust Final result so far 425kw on all 4 wheels @ 28psi E85 fuel Tuned at Chequered tuning Will be testing few different turbo combinations and spend more time with cam adjustments for better response.
    3 points
  16. Got the exhaust welded up... when someone does it for a living, they make it look too easy. My mate came over and did it suuuper cheap for me which is awesome! Started by cutting some bends and straight pipe then tacking together: The turbo has a 5 bolt rear and came with a vband adapter... but it wasn't a standard size vband, so we cut it off and replaced with a standard 3 inch vband. Here's the finished custom dump made up: Next up, screamer pipe: We're going to cut the screamer a little higher so it doesn't hang so low and maybe add another little bend to throw it backwards more, but I'm happy for now. The car sounds amazing with the new turbo... VERY loud as it's a straight through exhaust from the turbo back. Next on the cards is a varex cannon to sit right at the back so I can avoid attention late at night or around the popo etc as it's definitely way too loud to be legal! The new loud turbo/exhaust setup has also really brought the dumb auto transmission to my attention... the way it shifts, hangs between gears etc is REALLY noticeable now... ugh, can't wait to be rid of it (in about a weeks time!)
    3 points
  17. We then got in on a rental at MIR about 7 hours south of us. The air was supposed to be killer. When we go there it was sunny and cold with DA around -1300. Our other cars did fantasticly both going 8s for the first time with our shop Hellcat going a 1.24 60'. Unfortunately it didn't go so well for the GTR. I think the clutch kicked it on the 9.3 pass because it was not dragging the car forward on the 2-step. This cause the 60' to be terrible. I tried to let out the clutch more at the line but it just didn't help; put too much load on the motor and and it wouldn't come on to boost. Just a messy day for me but that's how it goes. However with the negative DA the car did go 150mph! I probably made 10 passes with three being full hits. Most of them had bad 60s and I bailed and others the trans would simply not go into fourth. It was starting to get pretty tired. Second gear wheelie! 9.6 at 150 pass - poor 1.54 60' but I ran it out anyway Another full pass A decent 60' but missed third. So now the car is back at the shop undergoing some modifications to hopefully improve on that 1.39 60' as well as make it more consistant. I will also be rebuilding the clutch again and installing my spare transmission while I build the one that's in the car. I got a Speedtek close ratio gearset with a longer first that puts my starting line ratio almost exactly where it's supposed to be and I'm pretty excited to try that out. But first I want to see if it's possible to make an 8-second pass on a stock trans! We're now caught up to present time. Updates will be slower from here on out.
    3 points
  18. Don’t know if the power is there but the surface / driver is limiting!
    3 points
  19. Define usage model and how many miles you expect out of it. An engine that can make 600rwhp but spends 99% of it's life driving to and from the shops is nothing like something getting drifted by a backward flatbrim vape addict. Know what I mean?
    3 points
  20. Oh no your not ! I'm going to win it, put some Fast&Furious stripes on it, take it to the US and sell it for eleventeen billion dollars !
    3 points
  21. anyway I am going to win it and take the front shaft out and do skids
    3 points
  22. Just buy WARGTR. It's for sale and has a Nitto 3.2L making 1400hp with all the bells and whistles.
    3 points
  23. If you are trying to lift the front, the best jack point is the cross member between oil pan and gearbox. It's even marked with an X for you. I would also use a wood block as well.
    3 points
  24. And more updates, I was initially going to run just normal rubber air hose behind the walls, but sitting there having a beer or 10, I thought if it blows or starts leaking I would have to pull the wall paneling out to fix it. So I thought screw that, off to Bunnings to buy copper pipe and fitting, as well as quick release airline couplers. I couldn’t find any adapters to fit the couplers to the plumbing fittings so I used some spare water temp sender adapters, stuck then in the lathe and tap my own larger threads. Just to be sure I soldered all the buggers together. All soldered and mounted, so now the real test is turn the compressor on, spray water on all the joints and see if I had any leaks, well bugger me 3 hours later the compressor cuts in, I can still solder properly. Stoked. Now if you are wondering where my hoses go to, I’ll explain, compressor to water trap/regulator, one hose goes to the sand blaster, disconnect it and the other connects to the copper pipe which terminates close to the hose reel, with another water trap/regulator so both cars can get clean air. The other hose between the cars disconnects from the compressor and connects my nitrogen bottle to the hose reel. Simple. The other thing I thought prudent was to not run wood wall paneling behind the grinders as that would just stuff the paneling over time, so out with a sheet of aluminium checker plate and install that instead. Fun times. That's way enough for now. Cheers and hope you like it all. Neil
    3 points
  25. Farkit 2300 it is Going for a oversize pulley to reduce the boost a bit Now for the waiting game
    3 points
  26. I've been spending a little time making some small improvements to the S15. I had the wiring for the speed controller modified with 4 Pin Deutsche plugs to handle some extra current, and fabricated 2 Brackets and mounted it adjacent the surge tank. After that, spent a little time detailing the original paint back to glass finish and finished it with Dodo Carnuba Wax. Emptied the oil catch can which presented around 15ml worth of oil after 5,000kms of driving, thus meaning there is next to no blowby. Should have the car out at Roll Racing next month, although damn, the itch to get a Samsonas sequential is wearing me down LOL
    3 points
  27. Thought i'd share some pictures of my ride and revived this thread
    2 points
  28. Surge tank arrived a couple of days ago and after some assembly and a lot of speed flow fittings it currently looks like thisnow just waiting for the fuel pumps to arrive and I’ll fit and wire them inside then fit the tank into the car
    2 points
  29. You obviously didn't read the post ....
    2 points
  30. Thanks mate! Nahh im missing 2 axles for that, would struggle to run 10s down there I think 😂😂 Hopefully get to do some more racing the next couple months before the baby comes but also doing reno's so we'll see what happens.
    2 points
  31. Took her out for a quick spin couple fridays ago to a local meet with some of the boys so I gave her a much needed clean. Lots of tough cars out, was a good night. Started to pull her apart last week to fit the new shroud and fan and relocate my auto cooler. Had to run some new lines for the auto cooler which came up pretty good. Wired the fans up to the ecu, oil cooler fan is controlled by temp oil temp now which should keep that all in check. Can't control the auto fan off temp as i havent put a sensor in yet so ive got it constantly running under 40km/h only starting from when the coolant temp reaches 80⁰ to give it a chance to warm up a bit quicker. I bought a haltech fuel level conditioner to get my fuel level going on the aim dash so I installed that but somethings not right with it. I have it wired up to the dash and not the ecu but it should still work properly. As the tank fills up the voltage from the sender drops and the reading I was getting on the dash was going into negative mV which was really weird and can't enter negative reading into the dash so I need to work out whats going on. I thought I wouldve got a wider voltage range as well but it seemed to read around 1.6v at empty and go down from there. She's booked in for a wheel alignment next Wednesday just intime for roll racing on the Saturday. Hopefully get it back and be able to turn the boost up for it.
    2 points
  32. Head to the strip and find out, When the flag drops the bullshit stops.
    2 points
  33. 2 points
  34. 6boost give life time warranty on their manifolds except if you heat wrap them
    2 points
  35. You dont HAVE to remove a tooth, but a missing tooth is better. It gives the ECU a reference point, which makes the location of the cam trigger less critical. If you dont remove a tooth, your ECU can count the teeth fine but it doesn't have a reference point to know where home is and it can lose track of exactly where the crank is.
    2 points
  36. How about weld some beads around a mandrel bend? Best of both worlds 😁
    2 points
  37. I don't like it (the mesh intake). Mesh has a much higher blockage fraction than you would think. Causes a pressure drop, but doesn't actually do any air cleaning worth a knob of goat shit. Better to do it properly and get someone to make you a carbon tube to site a proper airbox/pod on the end of. There's always someone nearby who knows how to lay up carbon. My sister-in-law does it (as an example of what you might consider to be an unlikely person).
    2 points
  38. After the engine install I was still having the ignition cutting issue. For the above pass I finally just turned off the knock control. This worked well but only about halfway. Timing still dropped out into negative timing that pass but only twice. This got me looking into why removing knock control eliminated most of the timing pull but not all of it. I did some digging in the logs and found that the vehicle speed was dropping to 0 at random points down the track and when it did so my launch control was becoming active with had negative timing. I tried to fix the vehicle speed signal in the tune with filters, cleaning and lubricating the cable, etc but nothing made a difference. In the end I made my own speed sensor that read driveshaft speed off the back of the transmission. R32 GTR Auxiliary Speed Sensor Kit - Online Store (ostdyno.com) This not only took care of my faulty speed signal and timing issues down track but it also gave my an accurate speed signal at launch to dial in timing in first gear to get a better 60ft. At this point I started to get a hang of the Haltech software and how it operated. From this point on the car got much more dialed in.
    2 points
  39. I could just imagine all the hard work and $$$ that was put into It only to see it get wrapped around a pole this is not the sorta car you hand over to an inexperienced driver
    2 points
  40. Not an expert, but recently went through the process with my R34, lowering anything more than the stock height will push the rear camber out negatively, my coils were barely lower than stock and i had -3deg which burns through tyres. I fitted adjustable rear camber arms to correct the camber back to -1 for street driving/tyre preservation Lowering the fronts also affects the geometry, a bandaid fix includes a roll center adjuster insert, some detailed explanation below, as well as info on the effects of lowering in general. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331892-roll-centre/
    2 points
  41. Hi all, Been an r32 owner for 6 years now and finally commited to starting a channel to document the work! Just went under the car to have a look at the sills after 6 years in the UK - don’t know if you guys have the same issues over in Aus! Hopefully makes an interesting watch and not too much welding thankfully!
    2 points
  42. Finally time to post an update. So while everything was out I managed to grind down the exhaust port humps whos existence just bothered me. 4 down 2 to go. Im not crazy about the iron/ aluminum color combo so the whole combo is painted in a fresh duplicolor "ceramic" engine paint and cleared. The old cracked belt was replaced with a Tomei timing belt. Then the main reason I pulled the motor is to handle this nasty engine bay. So some scuffing and masking. Onward to some hi temp primer. And then the finished product with 3 coats of primer, 3 color and 3 clear. And finally shoehorned in this clean matching trans and engine combo with many wires and hoses being relocated, extended or eliminated. Just after this the car received a new electric mac boost solenoid.
    2 points
  43. 2 points
  44. It seems like old mates head is cracked, not the one on the RB30.
    2 points
  45. Well the new exhaust is abit rowdy but it sounds amazing! 20210131_172928.mp4 Also managed to find 10 mins and started preparing the front end and laying down some bog so get ready for paint. Everyone's being very quiet on here latley lol.
    2 points
  46. Got a lense kit and cup for the tig makes a difference just need to get more practice and a steadier hand. Got the hoist up now, seriously if you have considered one get it been great so far. Made a start on the exhaust today, started with a basic bracket for the cat, then cut up some bends and got it up nice and high with a magnaflow straight through then into the old twin tip muffler. Will add a vband at the diff, 2 new hangers and then weld it out. Got a busy few weeks so won't be able to get much done but plan to get wheel alignment, tune and then have it fully detailed ready for sale around April.
    2 points
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