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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/21/2016 in all areas

  1. Another update the 32 got painted a couple days ago. Came out really good as you can see in the pics. whats left now is to get the other bits sprayed and should be all done windows got put back in with a new front window and new seals all round. interior is all back in now just minus the door trims and a couple other bits which should all be done by the end of the week im going to place an order on some new bc br coilovers as i think my shocks are blown on the coils and throw them in, and also placed an order on a decat so we should be seeing some flames now with the e85 Cant wait haha enjoy the photos
    4 points
  2. R32 GTST rb25 neo rebuild So thought I would start a build thread for my 1993 nissan skyline r32 gtst. As the Vic regulars may know, having owned her for 10yrs, the mighty rb20 had never let me down. Always waving the rb20 propaganda flag!! Previously running a hks2530 with all supporting mods, the little '20 was putting out a respectable 230kw atw in its daily trim. Until recently, with 250,000km on the clock, the car started to feel a bit hesitant. A compression test/leak down test revealed a low-compression/leaking cylinder So the first step was to pull off the head in the hopes it was a valve issue... Off with your head.... Sent off the head to be inspected but it showed up all fine??? Confused...so my options were to either bolt it all back together & hope for the best, or start fiddling with the rb20 block... Decided that the easiest option would be to retire the long-serving rb20 & drop in a rb25 NEO and be on my merry way. RIP rb20 Having found & purchased a wrecker rb25 NEO, I felt it would be best to inspect & freshen up before fitting into the r32... Sent the Head & Block off to be inspected & with any gamble in buying second-hand motors, the news wasnt good... Number 1 conrod bearing had spun & caused a bit of damage to the crank. Oil pump drive on the crank nose was also damaged which would indicate the oil pump gears could be damaged as well... Fortunately the seller of the engine was a top-bloke & offered a partial refund as I was still committed to rebuild the engine! So the engine build continues with a freshen-up of the Head with 'Performance Spring' valve springs & retainers on their way from QLD... & for the block - new goodies have been purchased. For the oil pump, I have opted for Lewis Engines oil pump spline gears - controversial? mysterious? - lets see what happens http://www.lewisengines.com.au/new-product-rb-spline-drive-gearsets-and-drive-kits/ and for the block, my arm was twisted into buying CP forged pistons & Manley rods So this is where we land today - a couple of other things happening in the background - rb25 gearbox rebuild & Nismo LSD - but will update once I receive updates myself. Wiring, on the hand, is something i'm putting off at this stage as its not as simple as a r33 rb25 drop-in. The rb20 loom is out & I have a Neo loom to mix/match/hack into...or I might just opt for a Wiring Specialties new loom & save the headache? http://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25-neo-wiring-harness-r32-gts/ Only time will tell, watch this space & thanks for reading
    2 points
  3. R32 GTR/GTS-t Cluster Surround Globes If your a little OCD like myself this thread should be quite helpful. I've done a bit of searching around and cannot find anything on the forums that actually lists genuine part numbers, so I figured I'd post up some part numbers and photos for those who'd also like to replace their blown cluster surround globes. You'll need to remove the cluster surround and all switches to access the 7 globes altogether. (2 small globes are hidden) I've attached 2 photos and identified the differences via colour code. Genuine Part Numbers: x1 - 25169-01U02 - Wiper switch back light x4 - 25169-01U00 - Hazard / AM/FM / Demister / Fog lamp back light x1 - 25169-01U01 - Headlight switch back light x1 - 25169-01U03 - Demister ON/OFF globe - Hazard / AM/FM back light globes shown in red. - Wiper switch back light tucked behind the rear wiper switch shown in blue. - Wiper switch back light show with the rear wiper switch removed. - Demister ON/OFF globe shown in green. - Demister / Fog lamp back light shown in red. I hope this helps fussy R32 owners like myself. These parts are easily accessible from any Nissan dealer. I personally purchase them off amayama which arrived at my door from Japan 5 days later.
    2 points
  4. lol im guessing you guys havent seen the Vspec Performance ads on here
    2 points
  5. 19x9.5" +12 LMGT4 in Victoria for a 5-figure sum ...and... LMGT4 sold by a different Victorian back to Japan for another 5-figure sum ...and... This buying behaviour pulls the values of 18" LMGT1, LMGT2 and LMGT3 northwards.
    2 points
  6. Morning people. Yay for monday. As of Saturday we are booked out for the rest of the year
    2 points
  7. 2 points
  8. For the R33 GT-R... Nismo Side Skirts
    2 points
  9. R32 4th gear pop out Ahhh gearbox up for its second rebuild. Rebuilt the standard box when car was 206kw but now its 380kw atw I have had 4th gear popping out while cruising. I have done the basics. Replace shifter and bushes in it but no luck. So I am looking at my second rebuild on it. I was thinking of using PPG 1st-4th Helical gear set (rated 800HP) but couldn't find many using this on the street. Anyone got any tips about this as a street box mainly (track maybe sometimes)? If I am going to spend decent money on a second rebuild may aswell go hard. Thanks Boys. Also just brought a VQ35de Stagea for my daily...so welcome to Wagoneers haha.
    1 point
  10. End of No Limits Events This is probably more pertinent to people in WA, but it has come to my attention that No Limits Car Club will be no more. It seems that they are unable to afford the hire fee of Barbagallo raceway and their event on 15 December 2016 will be the last. It also doesn't look like the RAC track will re-open, and with it goes the MC Motorsport State Sprint Championship. This means that two of the major events which amateur drivers have enjoyed for years will come to an end. It is really disappointing to see this sort of thing happen and its even sadder when our state government sits back and does nothing to support these sorts of events. The state government is always going on about how it strives to make our roads safer but its efforts to do so are primitive and one dimensional. Their only response is to continue to draft draconian road legislation and to exorbitantly penalize any car enthusiast who dares to enjoy their car on a public road. However, when it comes to supporting events such as the no limits events on Thursday nights at Barbagallo, where enthusiasts have a chance to enjoy their cars in a safe and controlled environment, state and local government do nothing by way of support. It is disgusting. I am truly sad and disappointed by the state of motorsport in WA and even more disappointed in our government representatives who seem useless when it comes to supporting these sorts of events.
    1 point
  11. FS: R32 GTR Nismo white face cluster and triple gauge - $750 Item: Nismo White Face cluster and Triple Gage Condition: Great, Used 23,876kms. Suits: Late model R32 GTR's (late 1992 to 94 Reason: I prefer using my Nismo Black face cluster Price: $750 + postage or pick-up PM me if interested.
    1 point
  12. The cheapest place I have found selling them for are the following 2 places in England. I’m looking at a 7670 T4 external gate and the cheapest i could find in Australia is $2875, the 2 below are $2030 posted to my door. http://www.hybridturbos.com/shop/borgwarner-efr-turbos/ http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/performance-turbos-borg-warner-efr-series-c-1050_1286.html If you want to buy locally email mtq, munt-WA said he got a good price on a 9174 from them. Turbotech list their prices and are cheaper than anything advertised I could find in Australia http://www.mtqes.com.au/ http://www.turbotech.com.au/products/performance-turbos/
    1 point
  13. Well yeah I don't purposely support shit teams / like shit cars just to be unique
    1 point
  14. Y'all know one day it's going to be like
    1 point
  15. This should go in the Tutorial section, too good to get lost!!!
    1 point
  16. thats the most australian thing ive ever read lol. also, f**k were lucky to be strayans, USA is a proper shithole
    1 point
  17. Every event - inspect brake pads, purge old fluid from calipers. Spanner check caliper bolts, all suspension bolts. Spanner check all exhaust manifold bolts, turbo fasteners. Check all I/C piping clamps. Check all exhaust system bolts, rubber hangers etc. Scrape flange faces on hubs and wheels, remove any buildup. Inspect rubber boots. Stringline check of alignment, measure ride height (at each wheel). Check shock absorber settings haven't been altered (mates or kids). Every season (4 events for me, approx. 600 track km) - fresh engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil. Full purge of new brake fluid for brakes and clutch. Fuel filter inspect/clean (10 micron filter cleanable). New spark plugs. Spanner check driveshaft bolts. Clean/reoil K&N air filter. Every second season - fresh ATF for power steering. fresh coolant. Always - look carefully at stuff and fix any obvious problem or something that is loose, vibrating, rattling. Anywhere that is subjected to a lot of heat is where the most attention is focused. None of this stuff is too hard, it's not like we are running gravel rallies.
    1 point
  18. My mates use the roulette table to pregame in vegas. one drops 5$ on red every spin the other black, split the difference at end of night and as much free booze as they can drink 5$ each every 37 spins on average aint bad for booze.
    1 point
  19. Will send you a PM mate! Been a while since i have been on here.... Most updates have been on Facebook
    1 point
  20. Nice build man. New colour looks great! Make sure you ask to speak to me when you phone up JustJap, I'll sort you out on for prices for a set of BC BR's
    1 point
  21. This shall be an interesting thread. Nice work so far.
    1 point
  22. Yes! This looks great, I love reading about cars that have been with the same owner for a long period. Well done.
    1 point
  23. haha true, my plain is to drop in a RB25det NEO motor off a Stagea in it later on, Nissan should've done that years ago. I will be using our ATR43SS1 as well as doing some high flows, and see if there are room for improvements.
    1 point
  24. $5,000+ for wheels made in 1996?! WOW. BTW Terry, how's the cloning yourself going? Need to make another clone so you can drive all three at once
    1 point
  25. could have been any cooked broke flamin mongrel. happens all the time.
    1 point
  26. If you put anything larger than a 3076 on an RB25 street car, you've lost the plot and your car is horrible to drive IMO
    1 point
  27. @PranKhaha definitely Bangladesh. @CoullsyI am outside AUS at the moment. Will take and post some pics when back
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. Long time no update - Plans sort of went downhill because I'm going on holiday next year so all of my money needs to go to that. In the interim I have done a few small cheap mods or maintenance items. It looks like my fuel pressure gauge may be stuffed - It's reading lower than it should or not at all. I know it's not a fuel issue because the car runs fine - Ordered new gauge which should be here this week. Sporadic idling is getting worse so I ordered some gaskets to replace the TB and IACV ones while I'm in there cleaning them. The big news is that I worked with GCG to get a clevis made up to suit the turbosmart actuator I had sitting here and the Hypergear ATR45SAT turbo I have. Boost control is significantly improved now. I put the actuator in, turned the duty down a bit and instantly hit boost cut in second gear (whoops!). I ended up having a friend drive it while I setup the controller and am happy to report the boost controller is set to half of what it was before and happily makes full boost in every gear but first (almost full boost)
    1 point
  30. hi, yes, up to date android app. thanks @PranK
    1 point
  31. Thanks and yeah just car is my best bet, you were right. $1382 a year, the wallet cries haha. Here's some photos too, it's in near perfect mechanical condition, just needs a couple lights and a bit of interior work.
    1 point
  32. So had a good look under the car just inspecting for any damage/wear from the trip... Besides being absolutely filthy (dirt/dust) everything seemed pretty good, being aftermarket arms with heim joints I pulled them all apart and gave them a clean out... Found abit of crap got into one of the rear traction arms and noticeable wear on the rod end so will replace that. Also found the drivers side outer steering tie rod had abit of play... I happened to find these tie rods on UAS which they say help fix some of the bump steer issues when you lower the car. http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/front-bump-steer-correcting-tie-rod-ends-584.aspx But then found these from the guys at Shift Performance Parts, Inner and outer rods that look identical. https://www.shiftperformance.com.au/product/n1-suspension-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-gtr-gts4-14mm-steering-tie-rods-ends-2/ Anyway bolted it all up today no probs, (obviously changed both driver and passenger sides) Original: "N1" Parts, The angle that the balljoint is mounted on the end of the tie rod was quite different compared to stock. Another interesting this was the inner tie rods had "rack spacers" built into them, Unlike the originals which I purchased a pair of "rack spacer washers" from GKtech Setup the toe as best I could with a tape measure, will book for an alignment next week
    1 point
  33. Picked up this beauty for my new car.. Twin Plate - Comp Spec And thanks to Tim (again!) this is now mine.. Nismo 400R brochure
    1 point
  34. I've modified a fully stock R34 as one of my projects. With list below I've managed 317rwkws on P98 fuel, I hope those information can provide some guidance for starters. 1. Xtreme Pull type Cushion button heavy duty clutch KNI25003-1C. from Race brakes : $891 2. Splitfire coil packs from Just Jap: $589 3. JJR's stainless steel R34 3inches turbo back exhaust system: $770 4. XSpurt 1000cc top feed injectors from Injectorsonline.com: $750 5: Walbro 470 L/H fuel pump from Injectorsonline.com: $200 6: Adaptronic R34 Plug in ecu: $1499 7: Havoc Fabrication Front mount cooler kit: $850 8: 4 inches metal induction pipe made by few silicon hoses and a pod: $100 9: Complete dyno tuning from Chequered Tuning $750 10: I will be using my own ATR43G4SAT internally gated bolt on Turbocharger. $1250. Total spending: $7649 Plus about $500 in labor it works out to be $8150.
    1 point
  35. There are so few of them around and took a while to find the right car. Picked up a 93 model R32 GTS4 in good mechanical order. Will be starting developments based on R32 Rb20det engines. My goal is to 270rwkws on pump 98 fuel with good turbo response. Car is pretty basic with a return flow cooler, and a turbo back exhaust fitted. I will be Nistune it and drop in some ID injectors for starters. I will list prices and places as project move along.
    1 point
  36. lookin good, keep the picks comming
    1 point
  37. Just an update, Paypal decided in my favor and refunded my money.
    1 point
  38. Doesn't look that bad : I need to find a manifold in better shape that this one which is cracked at sevaral places, some of the stud holes have seen a drill and most of thebolt of the heatshield are seized in it. But the adapter fit, the port shape of the adapter is almost flush with the manifold. As I said before I just need to weld the notch and deck the flange of the manifold et and it will be good to go.
    1 point
  39. Fitted the lip Borked battery terminal I've decided to hold off getting the paint done for now - I'll keep saving and get it done properly (not that it wasn't going to be done proper, just cheap I guess) List of stuff I have either ordered or will order in the coming days: Subframe bushes Diff Bushes 1 (rear) Diff bushes 2 (front) Subframe - Will rebuild this one while the other one stays in the car so I can drive it Rear camber kit Front camber kit Hicas Elimination Pilot Sport 3s for the current wheels or new rims Thats about it for now though - Slowly ordering and collecting parts to get the handling up to par to match the coilovers
    1 point
  40. Those are both Mitsubishi CAS and the plug should fit both. I have had both on my car This is a Hitachi CAS: If the 2 CAS' you have pictured are in any way different, one will be an RB25 CAS and one would possibly be a CA18 CAS
    1 point
  41. I've got a r32 gtr 1994 I've got a ill list going of stuff on order + stuff I have already on the side HKS GT-SS + hks actuators , hks dumps , hks 2.5" splits to a true 3" back plus 100cell Haltech pro Tomei cam gears Tomei pom cams type b Tomei valve springs Tomei metal head gasket Tomei timing belt Id1000s Arp head studs Will be getting the sensor to run e85 & 98 Hoping for anything between 330-350 on e85 I ran 11.8 on stock turbos and stock ecu with ku31 tyres back to back ... Only improvements was 16psi and full exhaust... Nothing of the above list beside exhaust was in this setup @234kw ..... Really keen to see what I'll run at the new was my run... Times lip in the description .. Excuse my idiotic screening after the run... Was a tad excited. I'll update u as I go. Great read....
    1 point
  42. Softer than stock pedal, no shudder, holds massive power.
    1 point
  43. mine was rebuilt with new factory pistons and race bearings, and is holding 1.4 bar through twin hks gt-ss quite well. has seen a fair bit of track duty too
    1 point
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