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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/10/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Nissan Nismo GT-R Is the standard Nissan GT-R too civilized for you? Maybe you feel like it’s lacking power or excitement. Fear not, the Nismo edition is here to solve all your worries. It offers more power, better handling, and greater overall performance, but that comes at a rather hefty premium. The GT-R is no longer the budget hypercar beating sportscar it once was. It’s now a full on supercar, with the price of the Nismo version exceeding that of Porsche’s Turbo S and even the 911 GT3 RS. Is it worth it? Well, it depends on what you want from a car. Nismo is short for Nissan Motorsports, the company’s caring division. They’re in charge of the hottest and most exciting models Nissan makes, and they eventually even deliver their own specially-tuned model like the R35 GT-R Nismo. It’s a hardcore, enthusiast car, so in that regard, it’s not a Porsche Turbo S rival. Then again, it has so much raw potential and outright speed that you can’t compare it to the GT3 RS, which is more of a driver’s car offering enjoyment. So what is the Nismo then? Well, for starters, it’s a lot more powerful than the standard GT-R. The 3.8 liter twin-turbo V6 located at the front has been tweaked to a rather large extent. The entire turbochargers have been swapped out for larger ones, offering higher air flow (they’re actually lifted from the GT3 car). The result is nothing short of astonishing, because the relatively light and compact unit is capable of delivering 600 horsepower and 481 pound-feet of torque. European models get 8 less horsepower, but it’s not really noticeable unless you’re a racing driver. The engine is still mated to a six-speed dual-clutch gearbox, but Nissan say it’s better than ever. The shifts are faster still, and it works great in conjunction with the new turbochargers. Elsewhere, there’s new shock absorbers, springs, stabilizers and a unique Bilstein DampTronic system which transfers power to the wheels more efficiently and is completely driver adjustable. A lot of emphasis has been put on aerodynamics. The Nismo version looks identical to the new 2017 GT-R, styling wise. It’s got the same tweaked front grille and the updated rear end, but a host of other changes as well. For instance, the aggressive bumper gets several layers of carbon-fiber sheets to improve the stiffness, the canards have been redesigned to improve overall airflow and the rear wing has been optimized to provide more downforce. The new Nismo GT-R manages to produce more downforce than any other Nissan ever built, apart from the racing cars of course. We have to get back to the elephant in the room, and that’s the price of the Nismo. It’s some $38,000 over the 2017 premium GT-R, raising the figure to a whopping $227,000. In other words, you can have a premium GT-R and a Golf GTI for the price of one Nismo. Would you, however? No, we wouldn’t either.
  2. 3 points
    Finally got a manifold that will fit an EFR...Future Fabrications twinscroll with EFR 8374...no wastegate installed yet as the flanges are for Tial instead of Precision...
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    My personal opinion... the current Gloria is SO much nicer than that... Looks like an old Jag went to a party, got drunk, woke up pregnant and doesn't know if the father was an R31 or a VK. Either way, no child support and had a bullied childhood.
  5. 2 points
    So updated Ma rig! Beast mode enabled [emoji12]
  6. 2 points
    Morning all. And welcome back Elle if you are back yet? Prank has just posted this if you didnt see it yet? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/468541-Nissan-Nismo-GT-R Nissan Nismo GT-R
  7. 2 points
    Hey welcome koreaturbo, Hope you're enjoying your time on SAU aswell as in Aus. Do you have any pics of your Stagea?
  8. 2 points
    Update! Finally, after 7 hours of sandblasting, the subframe is ready to weld in the reinforcements. It was a hell of a job, with sometimes a failure of the machine So after this i welded in the reinforcements en took the subframe to the powercoating, normally i would have it back this evening, so then we could mount the bushings, assembly the rear suspension arms, en put the axle back under the car.
  9. 2 points
    Add more boost.. ring lands won't blow if you limit torque. Also spray more fuel at peak torque to keep the cylinder temperatures down and pump in more timing as torque decays.. I think the excess cylinder temps cause the rings to expand then smash the ring lands not so much the pressure/force. Because you even hear of people smashing ring lands with cars making 250kW. To put things into perspective, I've been thrashing the shit out of my car with about 1.8bar through the motor on the track and it's yet to go boom LOL... but like I said, I run very low timing at peak torque and spray heaps of fuel to the point it is about to misfire... but, the car is happy and the only thing that has died is the stock 300 000km head gasket and the turbo's arse end exploding.
  10. 2 points
    Yeah I enjoyed it too, good on Nulon for sticking with the series. it was damn hot though. Are there results posted up anywhere? I want to know if the wiggles are faster than a shopping trolley hatchback And great work Desmond in finishing in the top few cars, the competition has definitely heated up in the last few years
  11. 1 point
    CTP Savings At Last in NSW Whilst With NRMA VVC We've known for a while now that Shannon's offers discounts on CTP Renewals on cars that are insured by Shannon's. We also know how horrendously expensive CTP Premiums are, for reasons we can discuss elsewhere. Now, NRMA Vintage Veteran and Classic are upping the ante. But there are hoops your need to jump through... So, pay attention! The original NRMA VVC Invoice has been destroyed (by an NRMA office worker), but as you can see, on the accompanying form, I've written down $758 as being the Premium Due for my CTP Renewal. On the original Invoice, it states that there is no accompanying NRMA Insurance that would ordinarily reduce the CTP Premium. That's because NRMA is slow in linking the VVC arm to its CTP Renewals. If I had paid online, I would have had to pay $758. If I had paid by phone, I probably would have paid $758. If I had paid at Australia Post, I definitely would have paid $758. Now for the kicker... By paying at an NRMA Branch - and here's the important bit... - asking to adjust the CTP Premium because the car is insured with NRMA VVC, I have saved $280!!!!!! Now I don't need to tell you that $280 can buy me a degustation meal for two at Tetsuya's. But hey, you have better things to do with $280 than by an empty-nester like me!
  12. 1 point
    Welcome back. Hope you had a blast.
  13. 1 point
    Every car appearing on this page is a god awful looking piece of shit that is scarce for good reason beyond rarity
  14. 1 point
    lol about time the whales struck back! Anyone got a link to results?
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Thanks for the link Dean, I'm back at work today , Japan & Malaysia holiday has been good , lil bit disappointed that I can't buy any of my car spare parts as they were closed but there is always online. I have few weeks to decide if I still want the Nismo , I'll wait till we have the results from the specialist , I don't want to have Nismo sitting in the garage for 9 months either [emoji22]
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    My old cards have already got a new home sorry bro
  20. 1 point
    Nice. Well if you have any spare parts you feel like donating to a lesser soul [emoji6]
  21. 1 point
    Got a 5l here for sale out of a VT GTS. We are converting a hilux back to a turbo diesel.
  22. 1 point
    Got roof-rack happening ...... sport wagon has to have roof-rack
  23. 1 point
    Do what you want, it's your car and money. If you're after likes, you're on the wrong forum. Instead of being Internet hero, do something useful and write up a "how to install HKS CAMP kit into R33"
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    hi every fall in love with japs car hi guys im from korea and stay here about 5 yr. i was bought 2001 nissan stagea turbo v6. anyway i will use many times good on this community . thanks
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Don't do any of this. If you have a RB26, sell the RB26 and go buy a RB25DET Neo And if you have a RB25DET Neo, sell that, and the GT, and buy the GTT. Source: Had GT with Turbo engine, now have GTT. No amount of modifications done to the GT is harder to move to the GTT than transplanting the engine.
  29. 1 point
    At this rate, you could probably do a kickstarter to get it shipped up to you [emoji12]
  30. 1 point
    turbo toyota starlet on e85 with haltech Eoi Turbo Toyota starlet Forester gt turbo Its a cutie on e85 .. haltec computer..... Corolla gearbox. The clutch is brand new..probably has 10kms on it Toyo proxis semi slics Starlet gt cluster Has some random bucket seats out of some car (does not come with the bride brix) 10% tints Made 100kw on 8psi amd on 98 pump fuel.... Hasnt been tuned since being on e85 and more boost..i can arrange that though.. Has no rego atm but doesn't need a blue slip yet...can discuss putting 6 months rego with someone thats serious No trades...moneys going towards a 3.2L rb 4500
  31. 1 point
    Waaaaaait wait Mr. anti-status symbol, forget what others think of your replica haha
  32. 1 point
    you guys joke, but he owns a Mitsubishi Lancer ...
  33. 1 point
    I must be doing it wrong then because my car with a wastegate off the manifold that goes to countless track days should be on fire by now.
  34. 1 point
    it's a bit of a sidetrack, but this webpage was absolutely awesome and I used a lot of the advice from it for my wiring job https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html Obviously I'm no sparkie but I've done a fair bit of wiring over the years including a bunch of annoying failures when I hadn't done stuff properly and everything those guys said made sense. Doing so much wiring from scratch, particularly when you have "plug and pin" sets mean you can run single new wires from point to point without any dodgy joins. I used: <5a/signal wires: #22 raychem wire and deutsch DTM connectors 5-10a power or earth (almost every power circuit): #20 wire and deutsch DT connectors >10a: #16 wire and deutsch DTP connectors Some bigger wires like main battery and earth I had to run 00 or similar and have a big battery lug crimper for it. For joining any wires (eg factory loom power sources to the smartwire) I used these awesome heatshrink splices. You crimp them down (the usual red/blue/yellow sizes) and then melt the heatshrink to allow glue to support the joint instead of the crimp, they are great. http://www.solidkit.com.au/product/krimpaseal-heat-shrink-crimp-waterproof-butt-splice-joiners-bulk/. I also used a few super helpful reducers in the same stuff eg red to blue or blue to yellow, really helpful for joining 2 wires into 1 where needed. They are semi-transparent so you can see if the wire is seated properly too, Crimping the deutsch terminals is super easy because the tool for each size holds the pin and crimps it in 4 places which is almost impossible to get wrong, I think I literally only stuffed 1 in the entire job. For things like earths I used regular crimp terminals in red/blue/yellow with a ratchet crimper which is much easier than the cheapy plier style ones. I also have a generic crimper for non-insulated terminals which was OK but got very painful by the time I finished all of the smartwire and haltech pins. And the smallest size on this was still to large for the AMP/haltech pins so I needed to tighten each further with pliers which sucked. If I had to do more of them I would have bought the proper tool for these too. All of the gear including the proper crimpers cost a bit but I expect it to be super reliable now. I also used a lot of dual wall / glue lined heatshrink where cables come together and between cables and connectors. Also spiral tubing and electrical tape on longer runs The key idea is to avoid soldering (because it makes wires brittle due to heat and solder's lack of flexibility) and to support the wire other than by the actual join/crimp on the wires (ie by it's insulation/heatshrink/tape/spiral cover etc) to limit the strain on the wires and minimise the chance of the actual wire being damaged. And the other key thing is to test every single connection by giving it a reasonable tug after crimping; if it falls apart now it won't last long on the track.
  35. 1 point
    I saw a axis in Victoria for 4k blown turbo..... just sayin
  36. 1 point
    So while I find the wastegate temperature discussion interesting is it relevant to anyone north of the border? All you seem to do is drag race your GTR so heats not a major concern for 9 seconds on WOT at a time.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Speedtek in Victoria is doing upgrade gear sets with chunky input shaft. Group buy special on ATM
  39. 1 point
    Good luck folks. Remember to keep it tight and precise. Feels slow but is way faster on these technical courses. Wish I could run with ya folks. Anyone have a remote control app? lol.
  40. 1 point
    Sedan is good! Good car, good value =) could do with a tad more torque but you know, can't have everything haha. Done much to yours? With sway bars, I recommend Hotchkis front and rear, strong and light. Very good stuff.
  41. 1 point
    Review: Mothers NuLens™ Headlight Renewal Kit European cars seem to struggle with maintaining high levels of headlight condition. While Japanese cars seem to suffer from fading/clouding, Euro's get pitting and a rough coating over them. We have 2 European cars and they've both fallen victim to this pitting and coating. I bought the Mothers NuLens™ Headlight Renewal Kit to try to clean up the headlights on my wife's 2007 Volkswagen Passat. Here's some pics of the headlight before I started. You can see just how bad the pitting and scratches are. So, the process is very simple; tape up your paintwork I put a hose on very low just dribbling over the headlight to keep it wet. Sand with the supplied 800 grit pad (you'll see in the below pics I needed to do this longer) When you have a uniform haze and it feels smooth, sand with the 1500 grit pad When the haze is uniform again, dry the light and Sand with the 3000 grit foam pad. Lastly, use the Powerball and polish to polish the headlight. So, after about 20 mins, the result is amazing. You can see that some scratches still exist, I can't feel these so I missed them on the 800 grit stage. I'm planning on redoing the sanding next week to see if I can improve it. But, even without doing that again, it looks (and feels) incredible. I would recommend this kit to anybody who has external defects on their headlights. (A lot of R33's get hazing/clouding on the inside of the headlight.) This is a 5 star product for sure. $40 very well spent.
  42. 1 point
    did buy an m5 and love it . it was too much hassle with current life commitments to mess around with it m5 is absolute animal so skyline is going back to garage for a while and start work in a year or so . thanks for your help all , really appreciate it
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Hi all...recently tuned my; Vl turbo with RB30/25 neo head - Built bottom end - forged pistons, rods, N1 oil pump, studs - Ported head- type B tomei poncams, - Front mount intercooler - Forward facing plenum - 2 x 044 fuel pumps - 6 boost manifold - GTX 3582 - Bosch injectors 2000's I have been building this car for years which has been an ongoing project/hobby... it's a 5 speed manual, running 24 psi on e 85.
  45. 1 point
    YES! YES! YES! YES!!!!! THE RING STINGER!!! That's it! I love this site, thanks Christian! You have no idea how happy you've made me
  46. 1 point
    Prank and Sau delivers. Hope Spanish hottie delivers for you now
  47. 1 point
    Heres 32 topics from 2005 with 'nachos' in the copy. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/search/?&q=nachos&updated_after=1104537600&updated_before=1135987200
  48. 1 point
    Awwww. Best return post ever.
  49. 1 point
    Holy shit, this is epic. I just spent way too much of my work day ogling at the pics!
  50. 1 point
    Cash grab for the owners, publicity for the law firm. Doubt they will get very far, maybe some Bunnings gift cards
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