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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So box is now in and converter bolted on. Ordered a shorter shifter cable as the one that comes with it is 8ft... Picked up the 90s for the cooler and plumbed all that up and made a bracket for the fluid checker. It's been primed now so will give it a couple coats of black today after work. Still have to make clutch hole cover.... Started wiring the fan and also transbrake. Decided to keep it nice and tidy and just mount them in the fuse box. They're 1/2 complete. Just have to run an ignition feed back to them (probably just run 1 and loop off it) and also a battery feed (loop off other relays) and then a return wire to power the transbrake. I need to throw the tailshaft in and see how it fits with the shifter cable. Only realised it was coming out ontop of it when I put it in. Few bolts on the gearbox cover/protector things and finish off the wiring and brackets.
  2. 1 point
    OK this is copied from other forum, so if some things don't make sense just run with it. So I've been looking for a hako for about 4 years now, keeping an eye on the prices and how quickly they seem to be appreciating in price as the world notices them (thanks RM Sotheby's) and with some hard saving I've been able to finally make a purchase. The car is a 1971 2000GT with L20 engine and 5 speed. Unknown ks, bit of rust around the place (wouldn't be one without it) but overall a fairly solid start. I purchased this from Restored.jp who some may be familiar with, they make aftermarket FRP and carbon parts for old cars like that Hako. This was the owners personal car.. whether that's good or not is yet to be known but it's a nice story anyway. As mentioned in my intro post I'd be interested to have contact with other owners of Hakos in NZ as it would be handy for parts and general networking. I'll be working on this in stages (as I'm now broke) to get this up to road legal spec.. More to come but I've already figured a couple things I need to do before it's even here !
  3. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I haven't forgot about the indicators integrated with the GT badge! i have just had a heap of work and other more pressing projects on the go lately..... one of them being this. As many have before I have deleted the air con on my 32... but unlike most I haven't stopped at engine bay, my plan was to delete the box under the dash as well but keep the blower motor and heater functioning....and maintain a working digital climate control (well minus the cooling bit.) The only way i could find to do this originally was to buy an N1 'AC box' and the manual climate control unit (N1's came out with no AC) which believe it or not is expensive, difficult to get a hold of and means you need to get rid of the sweet climate control set up. so instead i wasted a heap of time and came up with these; Now as you can see it's missing the ducting part but i wanted to ensure i could sort the difficult part first before dealing with that, so after getting $$$$ quotes to 3D print parts i wasn't sure would even work I bit the bullet and bought this.. and after converting computer speak to printer speak and 16 hours of printing later, this; turned into this; thanks for looking, I will have more shortly as i'm looking to wrap these up within the next few weeks
  4. 1 point
    Regretfully selling GTRWGN Nissan Stagea 260RS. This is one of the toughest and cleanest 260RS Stageas in Australia. I no longer have the time for it and therefore it sits in the garage far too much. Lucky to drive it 8 or 9 times a year! $30,000 spent on engine alone with receipts! Technically …you’re getting the stagea for free! It's running a Powertune built RB28DETT Tomei Stroker. This engine can make over 500bhp (372kw) at all 4 wheels. Currently making 460bhp (342kw) on 20psi of boost at all 4 wheels with 491nm of torque. The engine configuration is extremely drivable. The setup allows for instant grunt as soon as you put your foot down with no turbo lag what so ever! This car never fails to put a smile on my face when I am behind the wheel. It turns heads on nearly every single person it passes and the exhaust sounds absolutely amazing! Has a nice lumpy idle due to the HKS stage 2 Camshafts. The Stagea has 101,000km on the odometer. The engine has not done 10,000km since rebuild. Nor has it seen a race track. The interior is in immaculate condition. List of modifications: N1 GTR engine. Tomei RB Stroker Kit. Tomei 86.5mm Piston Kit w/ Titanium Coated Top Rings. Tomei Forged Counter-Weight Stroker Crankshaft. Tomei Forged H-Beam Conrods. ARP Main Stud Kit. ARP Head Stud Kit. ACL Race Engine Bearings. Tomei Head Gasket. Power Enterprise Super Kevlar II Timing Belt. Nissan N1 Oil Pump. Nismo Low Temp Thermostat. Garrett GT2860R -5 Turbocharger 0.64A/R. Tomei Dump Pipe Kit. Supertech Single Spring & Retainer Kit. HKS Step 2 Camshaft 272 10.2mm. Bosch 1250cc Injector. Walbro 450LPH E85 In-Tank Fuel Pump. Hardrace Engine Mount Kit. Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back BOV. Huge intercooler. Nismo Solid short shifter. Greddy Fuel rail. Greddy Radiator. Greddy Hard piping kit. K&N Pod filters. Exedy Triple plate clutch. Coil overs. Rear strut brace. Slotted and dimpled discs. 8 point roll cage. Factory Momo steering wheel. Defi Gauges with dash mount. 4.5 inch exhaust. 100 cell cat converter. Volk TE37 wheels with near new tyres. Boot mat. Standard air intake and a quiet rear muffler. 2x new tyres. Never used. 1 complete 260RS body kit plus another 260RS front spoiler $35,000. Price is negotiable. Car is located near Newcastle NSW. Don't hesitate to contact me for more information!
  5. 1 point
    Went down to the shop and did some fiddling today. Short story, car runs on the triple carbs now, but won't idle. With a bit of throttle actually doesn't feel too bad but yeah long way from running nice yet. I purchased some new gaskets but turns out there were a few that weren't right so need to get a few more which I hope will improve the idling and running of the car. Old gaskets meet new gaskets. This is where I set the timing. Originally it was a bit on the retard side but read that it should be advanced for triples and this seemed to be about where it ran the best. What I'm not too sure about is the vacuum thing on the side. I presume I've got a vacuum advance distributor so unsure if leaving that vacuum line unpluged will make it run worse or better as there's nowhere for it to go. The new throttle cable looks and feels super nice, and it's strong too. A bit thicker than the original. It is a little longer though which is kind of annoying to route but seems to work. Janky ghetto fuel hose routing seems to work.. no leaks amazingly. Ideally get an electric pump, fpr etc down the line. So next on the list is to get the cold start/choke circuit working as I did find it would idle better when I activated couple of the chokes on the carbs manually. The interesting thing is even with the OEM single carb it wouldn't idle properly when cold (but it did run better than this) so I wonder if there is a different cam in here or something; it was always a bit lumpy on idle even once warm. Specs on carbs anyway are: Triple mikuni 44s 150 mains 200 air 60 pilots I did get some 57.5 pilots but seems like it runs a little better on the 60s which is kind of interesting as Mikuni recommends 52.5 for an L24 which is about as close as USA gets to an L20.
  6. 1 point
    So after my bust on the 180sx wiper motor I did a bit more research and found that majority of Datsuns of similar vintage shared (or 95%) the same wiper motor. There are some Honda ones you can use and various other things but mint16 on here had some 510 motors for sale so I contacted him and picked up two of those. You can see they're almost identical except the centre linkage shaft is longer on the Hakosuka one. I took apart/cut the plugs off and ran some quick bench testing. With old cars it's always better to have more spares than less and it's a good thing too as one of the motors was not as good as the other. One was better than my current one though so I used the not so good one as a sacrifice so I could take it apart without concern and learn about how it all works. What I learnt initially was how much of a huge pain in the ass these bushes can be, and how much of an idiot they make you feel like.. that is until you work out/research how to get them to stay in their sprung houses. Then you feel like an even bigger idiot, albeit an enlightened one. This motor (which was the best of the lot) looked like it had some moisture inside it sometime in the past. Nonetheless it worked OK so after giving it a little clean up I re-used that part. My main quandry was how to get the linkage shaft out and move it from the hako motor to the 510 one. I tried for ages to remove a washer on the outside to pull it out but then thought I'd see if it were possible to remove it from the inside, jackpot! Once this cover is removed you're faced with this. Pretty straight forward system. Simply remove that nut, couple of washers and the park position thing and a circlip then you can see this. Just lightly knock out the centre shaft and it pops out the other side. Easily enough to reverse the procedure with the hako shaft. Better look at the size difference. Bigger is better huehuehuehue Taking the advice of many, I also tried to lube up this linkage area. I couldn't for the life of me get the washer clip thing off the top but it was quite stiff to move around. I did clean it up and gunked it as best as possible and it definitely made it move more freely. So after putting it all back together it's not a major improvement but definitely an improvement. Also for some reason the park no longer works despite wiring being the same, the motor just seems to run continually so perhaps something isn't quite exactly the same. Anyway, don't need that so I've not plugged that in for now. I think definitely for a proper decent upgrade the Honda motor could be the way to go, but I learnt a bunch from this so I consider it a win win. I also learnt that I need a new battery and a trickle charger.
  7. 1 point
    Arts and crafts time again! Something that was bothering me for ages is the N emblem on the front was all faded out. Picked up some basic model/craft paint during the week and thought I'd have a poke about and get it looking nicer. Turns out it looked way nicer just with a bit of a clean with some solvent.. but still not vivid enough for me. It took me ages to work out how I was going to do it with masking off so I could minimise the paint on the chrome. Ended up making a hash of it anyway but this is the first lot I did, and that turned out all good. Then this is the second lot and I couldn't figure out how to mask the inner bits so just gave up and made a mess. Quite a bit of the paint seemed to bleed through that paint tape but I managed to clean up the majority of it afterwards with some ear bud things and solvent. Finished product.. it's not super sharp around the edges but stand a few feet away and she's magic. Just brings that bit of something to the front where it was all silver/black before. Next I have to figure out the best way to refurbish the 2000GT badge on the front.. or maybe just leave it off for a while because I realised painting is quite hard. Also the front lip bugs me. I'm pretty sure it's warped somehow but it is flat on the bottom so hard to tell. Oh well, problem for another day.
  8. 1 point
    With a sunny day like today I thought it high time I got cracking on with some easy stuff. Plugs and leads is something even I can do.. of course needed a bit of coffee to get the brain working. Yipes, this coil's seen some shit. Lucky I have another on the way. In typical Japanese fashion the engine bay is super dirty. I forgot to take an after but the bonnet is now significantly less lubricated. Installed new NGK leads and plugs. The lead to the coil was a bit long as you can see, just cable tied it out of the way of the radiator fan more than anything. I love how the leads are numbered for idiots like me! One of these things is not like the other haha. Who's good at reading plugs? How does it look? After I changed the plugs/leads it was running like a bag of dicks missing and shit so I took off the dizzy cap and the points were super corroded. Bit of sandpaper and it runs mean now but I've got another cap due to arrive any day now anyway. Also took a quick vid on Instagram, so much excitement and noise to get to speed limit. It's a real event! https://instagram.com/p/9uxtRrmbK4/?taken-by=mlracing_alex" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Tbh I'm just beaming cause I did a thing and it made a difference
  9. 1 point
    Import a Chinese worker and get em to build both?
  10. 1 point
    Even if you turn off VDC your going to have a hard time doing a burnout in an auto V35 Reason being is as a safety feature When you press the accelerator and the break pedal at the same time, the the engine has its power cut to about 20%. Why you ask? well remember not so long ago all those people in Toyotas in the US who had their cars accelerator jam and then ended up driving along at 100mph+ to their deaths as they were too stupid to turn the key to the off position or move the gear stick into neutral. Most cars these days have engines powerful enough to overpower the brakes and as the brakes get hotter unless your running high temp pads the less they work. The whole idea is that if your pedal gets jammed as soon as you press the break pedal the engine has its power reduced to a level that the brakes are able to deal with and slow the car down Now you wonder how dose one bypass this in order to do a burnout? Pull off the fuse box kick panel in the car and remove the brake light fuse, now this may take some trial and error if you cant read Japanese Once the fuse is removed the car wont know that you are pressing the break pedal and allow 100% of the cars power to be used As you may notice by my avatar I may have had some experience doing this myself
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