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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Please do a search for RB25DE+T or DE+T e.g. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335781-r34-rb25de-to-turbo-conversion/ In short, turboing an NA car is not worth it. Here's what the GTT has over the GT, among other things: stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, bigger wheels for the bigger brakes, rear swaybar, sidemount intercooler, everything in the right location in the engine bay. Possibly some differences in cooling also (rad, PS, auto gearbox). Fully converting a GT to a GTT is possible but a big job - just save up and buy a proper GTT. Better yet, buy someone else's 500hp car with everything done already. Another solid myth is that buying an auto can be magically converted manual cheaper that buying a manual in the first place. Not true. Been there done that. If you want a manual, buy a manual. Good luck.
  2. 2 points
    Ok been a while, been busy with work etc. Was out of country for about 3 months lol. Finally got some time to get some stuff done. Lets see here, got a few new items. Reinik cam cover baffles Nismo carbon mirror cover Nismo floor bar Omori Factory shift and ebrake boots dropped the rear subframe to commence restore/updates. disassembled the diff Had pieces cleaned/powdercoated The fun job of pressing in the Nismo bushings and new hicas ball joints Nismo GT Pro LSD put in. Sadly, I need new shims, I was at .002 mm of backlash. 3 thousandths to tight. It calls for .005-.007 Time for subframe reassembly with nismo arms and new OEM hardware. Sadly, I ordered the wrong 5 lug hubs so they wouldn't fit into my new wheel bearings. Working on getting that straightened out. I ordered the NA version, when I needed the turbo version. Dumb mistake on my part. So the old hub assemblies are in for now. Still have more stuff to do before its all finished up and ready to bolt back up. But here is the progress so far. Will update soon hopefully lol.
  3. 2 points
    Nope took em off beforehand Got raccoon eyes too from my sunnies
  4. 1 point
    Hi All, Thought I would share my GTR as I get sent a lot of PM's with questions etc. happy to help anyone out, I'm new to GTR scene but not RB's having owned some big power RB30 VL's in my life, rwally enjoying the change but the do hurt the back pocket lol! Lot people will probably know this GTR plates " HANIBL " has been on the Motive DVD GTR vids etc, was originally built by Team Karam with a straight 26 setup and then the owner went all out which when I was lucky enough to scoop it up when he sold it on a spare of the moment decision just after it was put back on the road with the new setup. Quick run down on the car: 1992 GTR fully resprayed in original silver by 2SUS RD diesel block, half grout, Nitto 3.2 stroker kit, full CNC 26 head with head sealing rings, billet plazmaman 12 injector inlet, 6 boost manifold with precision 8285 ( recent addition bought it with a 7675 ) 290 kelford cams, Elite 2000 ecu, mechanical fuel pump, external wet sump oil pump, Al's Raceglides AWD turbo 400, Quaife front diff, billet axles, full IHRA spec chromoly cage list goes on. Car made 1183hp @ 45psi as a manual, car is currently being tuned by Ben D"Annello in Melbourne after some updates, we found the old cooler was no good so since upgraded to a plazmaman pro series 100mm cooler with immediate results, now just upgraded some wiring etc. and hoping to finish off the tune in the coming weeks, currently on 38psi has made 1050hp or 778rwkw thru the auto but some trigger miss count issues have held us back from turning it up or adding the timing it wants hence the wiring upgrades. My aim for the car is just to run an 8 sec pass, everyone will say it will do it easy but I have had the cars in the past to do it and one way or another it just hasn't come together, so fingers crossed it will come together this time around, the car has no expense spared on it, I'm very fussy so plenty left to do but that's the enjoyment of owning a car. Quick video and pics attached hope you enjoy. HANIBL 38psi 8285.MOV
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  7. 1 point
    Yes - so much this. I went to the rugby, Incubus, a cocktail bar and a chinese restaurant last night wearing a Soundgarden Superunknown tshirt (yes, I am a bogan). The tshirt was a good talking point at each venue. Anyhoo, Incubus were awesome...
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  9. 1 point
    It actually has quiet a bit of room between rocker covers and strut it's a precision 75 rear
  10. 1 point
    You inspired me want, I just bought the coil kit from Hypertune. I got the black anodised bracket
  11. 1 point
    Cheers for the help man, kinda figured this would be the case; but didn't know there were that many differences.
  12. 1 point
    Max , the conversion harness does come with connection to the side camera but i just don't have the energy to run more cables though the car , plus i only have the v36 for another 2 months then i'll be selling it when the new car arrives . I still have the old unit actual i have 2 of them now since i wasn't sure what was wrong with it when it switched off i had to buy the full set from a spare parts place , so now i have a spare box and the top cover and switches.
  13. 1 point
    Agree with your points although buying someone elses 500hp car is not always the best option. I'd rather a stock/fairly stock and do all the work myself, that's half the fun of having a project car isn't it? Building it to where you want it to be as well as the fact you know the car has probably been thrashed already if it has 500hp.
  14. 1 point
    Sweet. Please post a skid vid to show appreciation.
  15. 1 point
    Maybe because the relay you swapped it with was for the A/C? At any rate, definitely a dud relay. Replace that and hopefully that'll be all you need to do.
  16. 1 point
    Exactly what Ben suggested. Swap with another one that's known to be working and see if it kicks in. Just don't pick a relay that disables anything else that the AV+A/C system would rely on, in accordance with the workshop manual. If you know someone with access to a multimeter, just check the relay coil to be sure it's still in good working order (compared to another relay) and if it passes the resistance test, then feed the relay coil with a 12V power supply and check continuity between the contactors, as indicated on the diagram that's engraved into the relay. That way, you won't be wasting money on an expensive Nissan relay.
  17. 1 point
    That's going to go down well with the co-workers.
  18. 1 point
    these AEM wheels are junk, same scatter as stock. Ive pulled about 5 out.
  19. 1 point
    In Nissans, almost all relays are either in the engine bay fusebox, or strapped near the ECU.
  20. 1 point
    Not necessarily. Wiring harnesses typically come in LHD and RHD flavours, so it's still very likely that those relays and fuses will be on the driver's side in your vehicle, as they are in mine when compared against the US G37 workshop manual.
  21. 1 point
    THREAD REVIVAL I translated the Japanese wiring chart so hopefully it's of use to some people. I think this is the only one we need to hook up aftermarket stereos. I originally translated the other wiring chart with Navi unit plug (on page 1), but when I wired it in I had no sound at all even though I had that setup. When I get back home today I'll add in the wire colours when I hook mine up.
  22. 1 point
    Occupation = Lotto winner or Bank robber....lol Parts not cheap. Looking good
  23. 1 point
    Have you checked near your accelerator pedal as the diagram indicates?
  24. 1 point
    Yeah I understand I’ll probably stay away from it for the meantime and check out clean ones for the extra dollar [emoji1362] cheers
  25. 1 point
    did you get awesome gt stripes from the ole double pluggers?
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    I’m a bloody slow learner. Burnt across the tops of my feet from fishing on the beach wed/thurs.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Yeah, and get a haircut too
  30. 1 point
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  32. 1 point
    I just had to take it all home and mock it up. Looks unreal!
  33. 1 point
    Turbo-1 manifolds think he makes all of jems manifolds and fab
  34. 1 point
    Was in the exact same boat a month ago. R32 GTR, RDA slotted rotors all round HC+ pads all round, squeeled like a pig, found out that the brake guy didn't install any antisqueel shims, the kit is $90 from nissan, comes with all grease and shims, brakes are quiet as a mouse now, just did my 3rd track day on these pads, starting to wear thin now but still stop well, about 30% left
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