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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Yeah but we know which one you are going for In other news, journalism done right http://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2018-09-21/octopus-ecstasy-mdma-social-behaviour/10280706
  2. 1 point
    First, forget about your line-level converters. They are a passive device and don't require any power from your vehicle's power circuits. Their job is to reduce the voltage from your speakers down to something friendlier for your amp and no external power is required to make that happen. Not sure what you mean by testing the plate lights wire and you don't say how. If you turn on your parking lights, with your multimeter set up to measure DC voltage, you should be seeing 12V at your plate lights. Now, hopefully you're taking the initial measurement by putting the probes on each of the two terminals that feed the plate lights. If you have nothing there, the next thing to check is if the ground is OK or not. The way to do this is to keep one of the probes on what should be the 12V wire and touch the other probe on a bare metal object nearby, such as a bolt, chassis, reinforcement bar behind the bumper, etc. If you get the 12V reading I described above, that means the light is getting power and the grounding has been buggered up. In which case, you need to trace the ground wire and see where it has been severed or perhaps not even bolted into the body/frame to begin with! I dare say it's going to be something as simple as that. Judging from what you've mentioned so far about the audio install, your installer probably used the bolt that grounds the lights for your amp and didn't put the lights back under that bolt as well. Take a look at where your amp is physically installed - follow its ground wire and see if there's anything floating around near where it's bolted to your car that looks like it should be actually attached. Confirm it with your multimeter by doing a continuity test, to be sure it's actually going to your lights. As for a short circuit, trust me, if you say that your fuses are OK, it's not shorting out anything, otherwise you'd be blowing fuses constantly. This is the opposite of a short circuit, or what we call in the business, an air gap.
  3. 1 point
    GLWS.. Wait what are u doing again
  4. 1 point
    OK, good advice. I pulled apart my VDO moving coil gauge. Looks ripe for one of those steppers. Let me play and i'll update the thread in due course.
  5. 1 point
    Replaced the front uni joint in the front propshaft. There's another story just in that- circlip grooves not machined correctly in the joint bearing caps. That took a while and lots of swearing to figure out. Can't replace the rear joint yet as I need another joint from the manufacturer as those bearing caps are just too far out. Anyway so far under full acceleration I haven't noticed any of the previous problems. No surging, clicking, funny gearchanges etc. I did change the transfer box fluid as well which may have helped a bit. The only thing left to do now is check for high speed vibration which I'll get round to soon. Fingers crossed!
  6. 1 point
    She's alive again, feels much better low down and spools up early... Love this idle..
  7. 1 point
    R31 v s13 = r31 is a challenge to go fast thus why I have one gtr v evo = gtr is a challenge to go fast thus why I have 2 If I didn’t want a challenge I would have a evo and a s13 and go to Mardi gra and run my own float
  8. 1 point
    At the time of the movie though, all the Leroy types were fawning over it cause the JDM was too mainstream Safe to say a combination of rarity / collectable and those movies are responsible for JDM sky high prices. No surprise that the vehicles with the most gained from it are those featured as heroes in the movie...34R, Supra and RX-7. S2000 has also seen a good comeback on pricing. Then again, Jap classics like Hakosuka, RX3, VL Commodore and 2000GT did it just fine without movie power behind them.
  9. 1 point
    2010 BMW 135i MY09 Space Grey with Coral Red interior Manual 84,xxx km CIC iDrive Electric Sunroof Final series build date for N54 engine (05/10) Parking Sensors Full-service history with Active Motorwerke, every 10,000km - logbooks stamped Owned for over 5 years Aesthetics BMW OEM Carbon Fiber Rear Diffuser BMW OEM Carbon Fiber Boot Spoiler BMW OEM Rear Blackline LCI Tailight Gloss Black Kidney Grille BMS Angel Eyes Eyelids (Colour Matched) Flow Designs Front Splitter Flow Designs Side Splitter GTC CX Rims - Matte Black 18x9.5 and 18x8.5 (Bridgestone RE003 tyres) Final Inspection Full metal jacket treatment Performance BMS Dual Cone Intake (DCI) VRSF Chargepipe Turbosmart Raceport Blow Off Valve VRSF 7” Intercooler AR Design Catless Downpipes Meisterschaft GT Axle Back exhaust BMS Clutch Stop RB PCV Valve CDV Delete MHD Stage 2+ Tune Misc P3Cars Multifunction Vent gauge Tune2Air Adapter (allows for bluetooth audio streaming) Custom Floor Mats with M Stitching (Made in Germany) OEM BMW ZHP Gear Knob Maintenance Injectors replaced with latest version 12 at 55,000km Water Pump replaced at 65,000km High-Pressure Fuel Pump replaced at 30,000km Timing Chain and Tensioner replaced Oil Filter Housing Gasket and Oil Cooler Gasket replaced Walnut blasting was done at 75,000km Boost solenoids and vacuum lines replaced Spark Plugs and Coil Packs replaced Regular oil/filter changes every 10,000km Full log book history - all work done by Active Motorwerke Reason for Sale Looking for a new build after 5 years with this car. All the preventative maintenance has been done so the car is very reliable! Hoping to move into a GTR ideally Contact: Jeff Mobile: 0492 947 187 Location: Malvern VIC More pictures to come...
  10. 1 point
    So this took a lot of stuffing around, but I reckon it was worth the effort
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