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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I'm no mechanic (IT Support guy), but my impression of engines was that while 150psi is ok if all cylinders perform to this level, but a 20psi difference across the cylinders wasn't great. I believe that you wanted as close a possible compression on each cylinder. Our silver GTR produced 175 across all six cylinders (stock with 10k kms). The variance between cylinders was less than 1psi across all 6. If this were me, i'd be looking to pull the engine down and do rings minimum. (who am I kidding, i'd pay someone).
  2. 2 points
    Careful with the octane comparisons. I'm pretty sure we use a different calculation than you guys do in Australia. Here we use the (R+M)/2 method. I fairly sure our 93 octane is roughly equivalent to RON 98.
  3. 1 point
    Lots of aftermarket options from Davies Craig 14in $225 down to free postage from China for $35
  4. 1 point
    Hey I've put a deposit on a really clean 4 door GTT. I have a few reservations though which I noticed after inspecting it and leaving a deposit. The front bonnet latch bracket is black (not grey) and also, I'm not sure if it's my eyes, but the radiator support panel looks like a different colour grey to the rest of engine bay. The car is really tidy but I'm slightly worried now that it's been crashed. The wheel alignment also had a slight pull to the left when driving. Any panel experts care to weigh in?
  5. 1 point
    I just put a PPG sequential in my car It is awesome! It is helicial cut not straight cut so it is not as noisy. There is still some noise but it is much less compared to a straight cut. If you really really want the whine, I suggest going Samsonas. They are a stronger box too.
  6. 1 point
    Yeahnah Only upside, is I have managed to work my way up to a pretty flash building to work in, and scored a fairly consistent rate rise with each move.. Hoping to fund a new "big block" engine for the new bike before years end. 650cc < 835cc
  7. 1 point
    That’s how to create bills, not pay them off
  8. 1 point
    Have used rubber, superpro and now moved to aluminium. The superpro were fine for the street and had no issues. Aluminium were used to move rack forward but I noticed no difference with feel and noise.
  9. 1 point
    So, left the car idling and took the following measurements on current draw from the pump: When running from cold 25 amps. Gradually drops to 22 amps at operating tempetature with AFR10. Then after 5mins 21amps with AFR11. Another 20 mins 18 amps with AFR11. Another 25 mins 15 amps AFR11. Another 15mins 14.5amps AFR13. Another 25mins 13amps AFR14. Another 15 mins 12.5amps AFR14. When stalled up to 2k at this point AFR18
  10. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words guys! It's been a long hard slog to get her to this point and there's still some tweaks left to do but I'm happy to at least have saved her from the sad state she was in before
  11. 1 point
    Very flasyh, did you make those or buy them? The brake/tail light LED's look interesting.
  12. 1 point
    Also nismo and oem are rubber..my oem ones looked fine after 16 years when i pulled them out.
  13. 1 point
    That has potential to be a hell of a fun setup! Hope Garrett don't take TOO long to get those out
  14. 1 point
    ^^^agreed. Went from oem to superpro, now have nismo. Don't think i'd be able to tell the difference in a blind test...aluminium might be a dufferent story. Given its not a moving part, wear as such shouldn't be an issue.
  15. 1 point
    I think there are a few mods that can be done that won't screw up the character of the engine though. Really just quality of life improvements like the R35 coil conversion, R35 MAFs, R35 injectors, divided twin turbo pipe or Nismo intake pipes. But I don't hold a stock RB26 in any particular regard.
  16. 1 point
    I've not noticed a practical difference, and I've been using OEM in one car and poly in another for years. I went poly when I replaced them due to price and availability not concerns about durability or life.
  17. 1 point
    July 2019 Two updates in a week! Again, after a lot of reading and learning, I decided to go with a Gen II GTX2867 .64 rear. The plan being that this will be a replacement for the factory turbo fitment-wise, while complementing the current modifications and standard engine. While I had planned to run these in conjunction with some drop-in cams (Tomei Poncams), I may push to have the turbo done on its own to see how things are. It may well be the case that cams will not be needed for a turbo of this size. Hopefully I won't have this sitting around for too long!
  18. 1 point
    The exhaust, the intercooler pipe and intake pipe
  19. 1 point
    His dog likes midget porn too?
  20. 1 point
    I think you're about 10 years too late. Back into the time machine you go!
  21. 1 point
    Yeh its interesting. I am in the process of getting rid of my HKS F-con rubbish in favour of a Link g4+ and upgrading my trigger system and fuel system at the same time. Once done the G30-770 be on the next list to replace the -5's. So sooner they come out the better so someone else test for me.
  22. 1 point
    This is one of the nicest cars I've seen in the US. I love it!!! Nice work.
  23. 1 point
    Overseas may be your best bet, one popped up for 1.5 million yen a few months ago and was snapped up pretty quickly. Average prices seems to be around the 3 - 4 million yen mark now. You probably don't need a lecture, but try to buy one as complete as possible as parts are becoming fairly thin on the ground now for the HR31. Biggest things to look for are; mainfold, wing, steering wheel, lip, & bumper vents. Finding these things in good condition is nearly impossible now. 31House do sell some amazing restored ones, but they would be well over 70 landed and registered.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Stock bottom end all over the dragway
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