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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Above post is good, but just to confirm, actually confirm that you have fuel, air, spark. Just because the ECU is attempting to fire the injector doesn't always mean the injector is being fired. As above, you may need to see what IAT is used when the sensor is unplugged, it will have a fail condition. The link forum may be of more help here. At this point (and the joys of standalone ecus) your link could be running any engine.
  2. 1 point
    Link provide an extensive help menu. But you need to go right through the whole tune file, make sure the sensor settings are correct, and calibrated. This includes CAS, TPS, injectors. First time around, you will burn time. But follow their prompts and don't leave out any steps. Physically check connections like CAS, injectors, and coils. It is easy to test fire the injectors and ignition without the engine running, just follow the help menu. If you haven't got IAT wired and functional, you're going to need to work around that one, in case the settings makes the ECU think it's seeing -50 or +140C temps. The other thing is to double and triple check all earths around the engine. Link has a good feature to tell you when inputs are off scale and erroring too. It's all in the help menu.
  3. 1 point
    Went again early Saturday morning to check it out ! A very interesting drive with rain, fog, sunshine, aquaplaning, a mental P plater, kangaroos, a bloody great Angus bull ( with attitude ) in the middle of the road, just after the Grey Gums cafe and finally the second windy section of road is under road works with a 60km/h speed limit with cops (3) patrolling it as well ! . . . . . . not a bad drive actually ! Bahahahah !
  4. 1 point
    You can usefully start the oil control thread from the middle. As above forget about the so-called "head drain" crank case breather is where its at.
  5. 1 point
    When you finish the oil control thread you will come to the realisation that the rear oil drain is no such thing and there are better ways to do it. This involves Running a decent sized hose from the top of the sump (fresh hole + fitting) to the cam covers. The main thing about doing ANYTHING about oil drains is that it is not so much places for the oil to go down that you are creating, as much as places for the crankcase gases to come up. When the gases are coming up and the oil is trying to go down, through the same smallish holes (in the block) then the oil loses and gets blown up. If you increase the area available for the gases, the velocities decrease and the oil has a chance to go down where it is supposed to. So it is actually easier and better to put in hoses to take care of the gas than it is to try to squeeze oil back in through a disused turbo oil drain.
  6. 1 point
    Seriously, it doesn't have to be expensive to get the oil control stuff handled. But you do need to get the head off and you do need to cut a hole in the sump. So you do need to put in work. Fixing the oil pump drive issue &/or upgrading the pump is not cheap, but that's not oil control. That's oil supply. As I said, read the oil thread. We bashed through all the myths and bullshit and came up with a good recipe to follow. But there is a lot of stuff in there, so there is little option but to wade through the whole lot and let the consensus wash over you towards the end.
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  9. 1 point
    You don't need to know anything about the diameter of the steering rack. Just buy bushes to suit your car. Presto. Done.
  10. 1 point
    Baz still hasn't finish yours?
  11. 1 point
    Did Sandown on Sunday. Engine didn't blow up. Utterly destroyed brakes and drove home metal on metal style yet again. 8/10 would recommend.
  12. 1 point
    Custom gauge fit R34 GTT only! Hey guys, I've been requested to do a DIY on the gauge install in my GTT. ill try to include as much info as possible!! BTW i don't take any responsibility for anyone's attempts and if you damage anything you have no one but yourself to blame. Now, We've all seen setups when the aftermarket gauges are just jammed in, honestly that would drive me up the wall. To remove the factory gauge cover holder - pop out center vents located under factory gauges, use a plastic popping tool not a screwdriver. unplug hazard light - two screws hold the gauge pod in, after undoing these you can lift the unit and you'll find one connector for all three gauges - on the inside, two screws hold the gauges inside the pod Once separated this is what you're left with - Remove the 6 screws on the front to take off the plastic cover - I cant remember how many screws hold the actual gauges, remove them all - Now that its separated, this is whats left. - Next step is to pull the aftermarket gauges apart. These are shadow (defi copy) 60mm - Using a tiny flat blade, had to bend out the bezel edge so the face could be removed Bezel, Glass and gauge pulled apart 60mm gauges are a snug fit, all i did was align, pressure fit all three and hot glue holds it all together Power, Earth, ACC and Illumination all can be tapped from original harness from memory To finish it off, i ordered a new plastic face from Nissan. think it was about $40 AUD Final Assembly! Enjoy!
  13. 1 point
    Under the hood (stock 140 to 150rwkw) The R34 GTT replaced the Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T and features a upgraded version of the RB25DET. The main difference is the NEO head which has a new varible valve timing system, revised cam profiles, and solid lifters. Power was increased to 206kw with more torque availible earlier in the rev range. The turbo has a slightly larger exaust housing and a nylon compressor wheel. Cooling has also been improved with a larger more efficent intercooler. Engine Tuning Stage 1 Exhaust (around 160rwkw) The RB25DET NEO is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers. Intake (160 to 170rwkw) Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod. Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw) In standard form the R34 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator. A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range. Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough. A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32GTST item is exactly the same as the R34 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated. No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade. ECU (185 to 200+rwkw) As mentioned before many people have problems with flat spots and rich air fuel ratios. Even if you don’t have these dreaded flat spots an aftermarket ECU will give good power gains and improve drivability. One popular option is the Apexi SAFC (Super air flow computer). The SAFC is a piggy back to the ECU and works by tricking the ECU into thinking your engine is getting more or less air than your engine actually is. Tuning should be done be a professional on a dyno this modification should fix those dreaded flat spots by leaning you airfuel ratio's at different RPM points. A better but more expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which replaces the standard ECU. Many people choose the Power FC as its less expensive than other aftermarket ECU's, and it plugs straight into you old loom so there is no need to cut any wires. All parameters of your car can be tuned with a Power FC but once again it should be dyno tuned by a professional. Please note the power FC cannot be used an automatic transmission. Clutch and Fuel Pump At this level of modification it’s likely that your clutch and or fuel pump will need upgrading to handing the extra power. Conclusion This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the Nissan Skyline R34 GTT. Basically at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and fuel systems but in terms of car modification this level of tuning offers great value for money. Many people with these modifications along with well sorted suspension and tyre packages have 12 run second quarter mile passes. Engine Tuning Stage 2 Stage 2 of tuning is where things start to get expensive as we need to upgrade many of the standard systems. Nissan Skyline RB engines are known for the strength the RB25 is no exception with regular maintenance and a safe tune 270rwkw is easily possible. Some people push the limits with 300rwkw+ but if you want an engine that will last 270rwkw is a safer limit. Turbo Selection There are many good turbo options available but I recommend a turbo that will bolt onto standard manifold this will save time and money in the long run. Many people in Australia have had there standard Nissan Skyline turbo high-flowed by GCG turbo’s these turbos are popular because they use a ball bearing cartridge, and everything bolts back into place. Turbo response is said to be similar to stock and power figures average around 230rwkw or up to 250rwkw with cams. Some people have used larger exhaust housings from the R34 GTT or the old single turbo 300zx and have achieved 270rwkw+. HKS in Japan have a range of turbo's for the R33 that come with all the parts needed to bolt on. Suitable kits available from HKS at the moment include the HKS GT-RS known to make 280rwkw and the HKS PRO-S known to make around 300rwkw the GTRS is cheaper and a little more responsive than the PRO-S. Another popular choice since superseded by newer models was the 2535 which is similar to the GT-RS. Intercooler Upgrade The standard R34 Nissan Skyline intercooler runs out of its efficiency range at power levels above 200rwkw and needs to be replaced by a larger front mounted intercooler. GTR intercoolers are a popular choice but custom piping will be needed in order for it to fit. Many aftermarket bolt on kits are available for the GTT these days starting at around AU$500 but as with most things you get what you pay for. Be aware a small decrease in throttle response may be noticeable due to the extra piping and larger core size. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod before upgrading your turbo as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. Fuel system If you haven’t done so already the fuel pump will need to be upgraded. Second hand GTR pumps are a popular option as are new pumps from bosch, walbro, and tomei. The GTR and Tomei pumps are a direct fit. You may also install a fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure. Standard injectors will also need to be upgraded at this stage. You can either have your standard injectors high-flowed, or buy after market ones from Nismo or Performance company's. I recommend you use injectors that are a direct replacement and don’t require any modifications s to fit. Airflow meter To improve the tunability of the engine its a good idea to upgrade your airflow meter this allows for finer tuning which will result in smoother power delivery and make it easier for the tuner to produce a higher peak power output . Popular upgrade choices include the Z32 and the Q45. The Z32 is cheaper of the 2 but the Q45 will allow more airflow. click for more information ECU If you have not done so already the ECU will need to be upgraded even with a SAFC or similar the stock ECU will not do the job. As stated before the Power FC is a popular option due to its price, ease of installation, and use. There are plenty of other options that are superior to the Power FC and allow many other tuning functions like launch control, and the ability to use a map sensor instead of the airflow meter. But the FC is still a popular and is proven to perform. Head Gasket Running boost levels above 1.2 may require a new metal head gasket to lower compression and improve reliability. Opinions differ on this subject so I think its best to ask you tuner. Clutch and flywheel The stock clutch will certainly fail quickly at this power level the hardest part is finding a clutch that will handle the power yet not make your car a pig to drive. Exeedy seem to be popular and reliable choice and while you are upgrading your clutch a lightened flywheel is well worth considering. This will help the car rev quicker but the trade off is your car will loose momentum quicker to. Cams or Cam gears At this stage the skyline will benefit from a set new cams, cam gears, or both. The outright power will be increased but the main reason for installing cams is for a fatter torque and power curve. Upgraded cams can help reduce lag, improve mid and top end power. Popular choice is tomei pon cams as they fit without modification and are proven to give good results. Big thanks to Squeak from http://www.skyline-owners-club.com MRXTCZ
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