Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hey guys, We are having a virtual meet on this Thursday 23rd April 7:30 - 9pm We will have a quiz at the end of the night where members can win some NISMO and SAU merchandise. - Update on Club memberships - Update on Club permit scheme - Discussion around events that were planned and new events going forward. - Show us some cool parts or memrobilia - Quizz Link sent via email.
  2. 2 points
    Just had a bit of a read through, I have a habit of spending too much time ranting stuff and ending up with people not reading it anyway so to save both of our time I'll try and make some bullet points haha Firstly, just clarify - you are saying it is hitting 17/18psi in the mid 5,000rpm range? Everything I say from here is assuming I've read that right First confirmation, a PT6466 should be able to spool MUCH quicker than that on an RB26 if it's allowed some time to load up - like given about the amount of time you'd expect pulling from 2500-3000rpm in 3rd gear or higher. E85 won't change this much, the effect it has is often more to do with how the engine responds... not the actual boost threshold to a major degree. How does it spool when you drive it? Can you describe when it starts building boost and when its "all in" on the road? Cams have been mentioned a few times, now long duration cams do naturally have a bias to higher engine speeds, but absolutely not to this kind of degree. Also, those HKS cams are meant to be drop in and have the same centerline as stock - you don't need adjustable cam gears to run them. If you do and you have them "dialled" like stock then it should be fine. They'd need to be installed incorrectly to make the lag this bad, not just "not dialled in optimally". Just because it seems like the communication may be murky on this, the suggestions of turning up the boost are NOT going to affect spool, just power. You won't get it coming on any earlier by doing this. There could be some gains with boost control setup, but this sounds like it is just lazy as hell when you want it to go. For what it's worth, what I'm seeing so far makes it sound comparable with a car I've had a lot of time around which runs 280deg cams, a head ported for max power and a T51R SPL running a 1.00a/r open housing. When targetting 17psi it is making that boost by around those rpm with EVERYTHING much bigger and older school than what you have. Have you done much investigation into problems with the car? To me there is very likely to be something wrong, like cams installed wrong, or a major boost or exhaust leak. Did you install the valve seat in the wastegate, for example? In regards to the tuner, that can definitely make it perform like crap - but the spool is hard to make that bad just with a tune, unless you are saying it feels flat under 5500rpm as opposed to not actually making boost. Strange call not sharing the dyno plot or any other effort if you are wanting help diagnosing. Please give any more detail that you can on what you've done to diagnose this, or how it behaves in the real world. I would *NOT* change the cams, or the turbo setup to try and resolve this issue. They would be a lot of work and/or expense when neither should be performing like this - I see too much of this kind of suggestion on this forum when it's clear there is a tuning/mechanical issue which is making a setup which should be able to perform better is not. There is the chance you might find or inadvertently fix the actual cause for this issue while doing so, but there is no guarantee that you will and you could easily end up with the same issue and have gone sideways or backwards with the setup. In Oz they're spoilt by being able to use small cams and push heaps of boost in to make good power, but sounds like you are in the same position we are in NZ where you actually need to manage cylinder pressure to make decent power - which is not ideal, but neither is knock For some reference, here is a dyno plot for a 1.00a/r T4 twin scroll 6466 on an RB26 running Kelford 274/270 cams on E85: And boost: And a pretty much identical setup but with the cams dialled in for power instead of spool (so "laggy"):
  3. 1 point
    So..... After parking my 86 into a fence, and then a guard rail..😖..I bought a old Bogan 2002 VX SS II auto cruise ship for a daily driver/project. Enter 1 x 2002 VX SS II Auto I searched around for ages looking at everything from new MX5's to 370Z's, and everything in between, I came across this old boat early in my searches, the boy pointed it out actually, he said "it looks old, slow and noisy, just like you, and mum would hate it", so with that kind of endorsement, and, with nothing else that really touched my special spot (something different, something I can play with, something that should annoy the neighbors and old peole, something with minimal electronics that a old idiot with monkey fists can work on, and parts that are easy to find and cheap, and parts that are cheap, and parts that are cheap), I grabbed it. Don't ask what I payed for it, I'm pushing that bit of information back down deep into my brain where my empathy lives to never surface again. Needless to say it is super clean and straight. Engine: LS1 5.7 Headers, twin 2.5" exhaust, OTR, Tune??? (It goes surprisingly well, LOL, shut up, it does go well, and it sounds f**king awesomeballs) it will visit Pulse Racing for some love in a while. I'm not sure about the Simmons rims though, 18 x 8.5 with 245/30 front, 18 x 9.5 with 265/30 rear, I think I'm going to try and find some OEM VX SS rima for it (swaps????). Suspension: Yellow lowering springs (Kings?). Some shocks??, I'll have a better idea when I lift the car and pull the wheels. I'm thinking its had some bushings done, the thing is as tight as a tiger. I've only just got it, so, so far I have only cleaned the airfilter, it's a over the radiator CAI jobbie that makes cool induction noises. So far things to do: Engine oil and filter Spark plugs Trans flush and filter Diff oil Brake fluid flush Power steering flush Coolant flush Wheel alignment Good wash, polish and wax Wrap headers.....maybe, or find some other form of heat sheilding for them... Then, look for other stuff like old hoses or broken stuff. You know there will always be broken shit in a 20 year old car. What are my plans for it? drive it around really, hit the drags once or twice for some LOLs, not back it into a fence....and guard rail....
  4. 1 point
    That's probably more realistic, my butt dyno has been calibrated using American specifications.
  5. 1 point
    I'm gonna say 205rwkw
  6. 1 point
    In the spirit of 'braided lines rape wallets' Next cab off the rank was moving the oil cooler, because we noticed that a) Don't need the intercooler holes for anything now... b) Oil block is on the passenger side of the engine, not the driver side c) Lines all the way across the engine would be bad. So we moved the cooler from behind the driver side to the passenger side. For general better'ness, and did not have the washer bottle to contend with anymore. ... we may have had to remove a tow point though. But there's still one left... I also test fitted the (18x9 +30) wheels I bought. I was going to get R34 GTR ones, but they were expensive, 2nd hand, and these ones have a bit of a concave fit to them too. I hated my old rims as they were a complete and utter pain to clean, 15 minutes per wheel vs about 4 seconds per wheel. This is also why these new wheels are black. (remember, mildly annoying = must be destroyed) Maths well on my side, these cleared the brakes without a worry. I also decided to change the cabin filter in the Renault (pls buy it) OH YEAH. Now is when things got a bit more fiddly, because it was more fabrication and "how to make things work and not be utterly disgusting". This is a LS. The Red Circled bit is where the coolant lines run to the heater core. In a commodore these are actually on the driver side chassis rail (so the hoses are small). Almost like it was designed for it. But where are they on a r34 GTT? Right on the opposing side of the engine bay. So we had to run two pretty damn long rubber hoses with a bunch of kinks across the entire frigging motor, notwithstanding the fact that there's a manifold on each side of the motor and not a lot of room at all. "Do you really need a heater?" I mean technically the car would be pretty hot anyway, gearbox right under the centre console, warm transmission tunnel, brand new exhaust running under the driver feet, you know bu- YES I REALLY NEED A HEATER! Luckily my friend and partner in crime was always looking for an excuse to buy a pipe bender. How bendy is too bendy? relax everyone that was just testing. Below was the final result: yessssssssssssssss. I was worried about power steering in general, as it's really hard to find any information about the power steering pump used by Nissan, and the power steering pump used by GM. Could I just connect the lines from the Skyline system into the GM power steering pump? Was it that simple? Was the GM pump stronger? Was the Skyline pump stronger? Is that going to break anything? What about that dreaded "Heavy steering" problem with R34's anyway. If you get that from a sensor not being on, or a vac line missing, what about if you have NO sensors at all, and a fkin Commodore pump. Would it be massively light? WHO KNOWS. What I did do was go to Active Power Steering in Dandenong in Vic with the old power steering line and say "Can you make this with the GM fittings on the end?" The top is what I brought them, the bottom is what I received. They included the sensor for the plug, though didn't know either WTF would happen to my steering afterwards. science! And I can't fault them on any of it, because it worked perfectly and cost very very very little ($250ish). Done in a day. And how is the power steering in the end? It turns out that the result definitely works, power steering exists, and the result is that it is really very heavy, but provides a ton of feedback. Undoubtably it's heavier than both a commodore and a R34 but it is a little lighter than R34 in "broken heavy mode" because I can only assume the pump is more grunty. You'd get in it and drive it and be all "Damn man this is heavy" but it actually suits the thing when driving around, as big notchy shifter, heavy clutch, heavy steering, V8 all really works in conjunction with one another, placebo I know, but it makes the whole thing feel "Heavy Duty" and the steering has absolutely NO play in it or any kind of deadzone at all. So all in all, surprisingly cheap to get done, and works with no real side effect!
  7. 1 point
    Check ABS sensors that lines up to ABS rings on all axles - happened to me a while back after done what you've gone through mine is R33 GTR, had same problem and somehow I decided to crawl underneath rear end for some reason I can't remember at the time (still can't remember now) and I noticed one of sensor didn't line up to ABS rings on rear left CV, pushed the CV back in the diff and problem went away. Also, have a look at tyres and see if they all are the same, if one is slightly off, it'll do that, also happened to me.
  8. 1 point
    Take to workshop, connect scan tool to Consult port, read codes from ATTESA CU, fix problem. Problem likely to be a wheel speed sensor, which was maybe molested during wheel removal/refit.
  9. 1 point
    Have you tried smoke testing it to make sure there’s no leaks in the pressure system?
  10. 1 point
    You will notice that no-one is suggesting a return to twins so I hope you have ruled that out. The two most simple changes you can try are 1. If it is difficult for you to get custom cams put your stock cams back in with adjustable cam gears. 2. Turn up the boost to 2 bar Then (and this may be the most difficult part) get a good tune. You say your tuner is not familiar with your set up and not comfortable with increased boost. Maybe you need to look around for a tuner who has more experience with turbo engines. I assume you have an adequate fuel supply. Do you know what kind of pump and injectors you have? Also a little worried about your coils - do you know what type they are?
  11. 1 point
    These are the hks gauges I got. Over ten years old still in there original box!!!
  12. 1 point
    My haltec is set Up at 100 percent Duty cycle and I’m in open loop...I’ll get my tuner to look into this further. My haltec ecu was a used platinum I got off ebay. Seems to work just fine tho. And yeah goin with the centre dash mount forsure. Thanks for the help mate. Cheers
  13. 1 point
    You have to accept that the ecu pinout diagrams are correct. Then you start from the ecu end of the loom and apply power to the appropriate terminal of the loom plug and see where it comes out in the engine bay and make sure there is a connection through to where it is supposed to go. I suppose you know that you can't just use a multimeter in the engine bay end because many of the ecu pins do not supply a current but act as an earth.
  14. 1 point
    Hi - have a read through parts of the "Wagoneers" (Stagea) section - there's lots of information there!
  15. 1 point
    Welcome Carl! Yep, that's a pretty common place for rust under the mirrors. Mine had that back in the day.
  16. 1 point
    It's a really good example for everyone of where not to mount the can, or put an oil vapour fuming filter, so this thread will useful to someone.
  17. 1 point
    I hate the look when the car burns down. But that's just me.
  18. 1 point
    I too have an excel spreadsheet, infact I put this V8 conversion all in it, including dates, what i bought, and even compared what I thought I'd spend to what I actually did spend. Then it all became a bit superflous because the parts I did spend on weren't really strictly related to "Conversion only" costs.. like say, the previous post. Also got a bit lucky in some aspects, like a pre-made ready to go refreshed cammed motor. Saved some $ there. ........Provided that engine actually started and was built correctly......... Moving on, more bushings! So now we had the rear of the car, and bushings done (many not pictured on the front arms), we decided to tackle plumbing up the engine side. We left the clutch out for now because it's just going to be easier taking engine in/out/in/out/in/out without a clutch to contend with. But the gearbox looks to have bolted up fine and took up space fine, useful for checking clearances to things. Here was our lovely engine bay,complete with old R34 ancillaries just.. hanging out. Gearbox sorta fitting okay! The commodore shift knob options are horrific, so we ended up cutting this and welding on a literal bolt to the end of it with the same pitch that Nissan shift knobs use, so I can re-use my OEM Nissan/Nismo Shift knob. The gates are tighter than a R33 Gearbox is (maybe the ripshifter does this) but it means that the AUTO housing I had around the shifter now fit better after the conversion than it did before. Another win! Please check page 1 for a description of my abomination of wiring. It was always a really sore point, but now that the motor was gone, we could remove what wasn't needed anymore. The way I thought about it was ..... My Haltech PS2000 ran the Engine, standalone. The LS1 Ecu runs the Engine, standalone. No other functions of the car did not work. AC worked, Power steering worked, dash worked, all electronics worked fine before the conversion. Logically then.. we could remove all of the things the PS2000 was wired to. Logically then.. we could run the LS1 in "Engine only" mode, and everything should be just fine, cause the rest of the car's wiring wasn't changed, because it was never in play to begin with. ... in the past my car has had up to 4-5 ECU's running various things. Anyway, all gone now. So we started pulling wires out. Initially we labelled them, and thought about them, and then eventually came to the conclusion above. "I'm sure it's fine" What's this for? I don't know. I knew then, I don't know now, but I took a photo of it for some reason. With literally all the engine wiring in the bin, we had an empty engine bay to start figuring stuff out in, and first cab off the ranks was the fuel system. The engine we got had some nice return EFI fuel rails on it which was great, because the LS1 uses a returnless system, and the rest of a skyline is .. not a returnless system. so thank f**k for that, basically, but we had to plumb it all in. We decided to cut these lines shorter, to angle them up against the firewall as much as possible. We didn't know how the f**k people ran a manifold/exhaust through here but we sure weren't going to be the guys that didn't make every effort to try and make someone's future life easier. People notice that shit! (also I almost melted my car to the ground due to wiring issues and heat in the past. This is fuel... and a manifold, what could go wrong?) Ah yes the first braided line, the one that started it all. The stock ECU can handle flex fuel. I had a flex fuel sensor. I had to mount it somewhere. So this: + This = This It seems I don't have too many photos of the fuel lines, they went through many, many revisions. With the engine in again, I had to think about cooling, as a clutch fan isn't feasible/doesn't exist. Luckily the LS is setup for thermos from the factory as it has them, and luckily, the AU falcon's thermos match up nearly perfectly with a R34 radiator, as well as pushing a LOT of air. "but isn't the LS huge?" A lot of people are still suprised by how small it is in the engine bay. .... so much room for activities! You can't see it in this photo, but you can actually fit your entire arm down behind the motor and grab the bellhousing too, so my e85 sensor was not in peril. Radiator and Thermos in! Sometimes things just fkin work out! sometimes.
  19. 1 point
    Novel mounting place for a vented catch can - just above the exhaust!
  20. 1 point
    I know when I picked up my car from jem I told Adam if it let’s go I’m going to do a 2.8 and he said thats the only thing he would do and don’t change anything else. I am going to try and get more lift onto the Vcam though
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Car is still getting the finishing touches done before tune....hopefully in a month or two m. i ended up going all out and changed practically every bolt on and power adder hahah so it’s not going to be a direct comparison between the poncams and hks step 1’s unfortunately dudes....I do apologise. i will still post results once it’s tuned anyways ✌🏼
  23. 1 point
    Man you have either: Too much time Too much money, or Great drugs But loving the build - I have given up on building and now just click and collect Stage 1 or 2 or 3 carpark reflashes lol
  24. 1 point
    Dale is 100% correct its a well proven fact that smaller cams in RB's aid in response. Even going from a stock cam to a type b pon cam will cost you response. Been many track guys that have thrown their poncams in the bin after driving their car, even when the dynosheet looks better it's actually not as good to drive. My tuner reckons most RB's are over cammed. (He is no dummy) 272 if you wanna spin it to the moon sure. 272 if you want brapp brapp sic boii idles. But expect it to be soggier in the middle.
  25. 1 point
    So at this point car looked like this: I had an engine, and gearbox, and clutch, all I needed was a loom, and that part was super easy. (says the internet) So things must be coming along great, fast, right? No. Would it be fast if you just wanted to put the engine in, wire up some kind of loom, not really care about much else, get a tailshaft and manifolds fabbed up and go do skids? Yes. Did I do this? No. I said a couple of posts ago that “While I’m here….” Was always going to be an element, and now is when it began to strike in full force, because while I also bought one shipment, there was actually 2, and there was scope shift. It went from “Hey lets just change the engine” To: Brain: Pssst… remember how this was all to remove annoying, worrysome things with this car? Me: ……. Yes? “Lets remove anything that caused annoyance in this car, EVER!” If I’d ever rolled my eyes, and dealt with it, or had to make an excuse for it, or “I’ll get around to it” it now became a prime target. There were quite a few of these things. Like in every car. Even yours. Don't you judge me! Given I needed the car to be engineered, I had a HICAS problem to deal with. I couldn’t use rose jointed arms/eliminator kit, and the stock ones had a lot of play in them, plus, they were f**kin shit, and already removed from my original subframe as they were quite shit. So were the arms i had replaced them with. So was my diff. All worked, pretty okay, and good enough for 99% of people, but sadly in this context, and the only context, I am the 1%. It was all bad. It was worse than bad, it was mildly annoying. So what’s a boy to do? Lets convert the subframe instead to a NON HICAS one. …..while it’s out, lets replace EVERY bush in it. …..while it’s out, lets weld in some subframe reinforcement plates, I mean if S15's crack them, surely a v8 will? (not that skylines seem to..) …..while it’s out, lets get my “1.5 way” Diff rebuilt, as this was clunking and being an asshole beyond what other diffs were doing. …..while it’s out, lets remove the shocks and put some stock suspension back in. It’ll be needed for the engineer anyway, and I wanted to rebuild my shocks because they were leaking, and slightly annoying. ……and did I need a re-valve? I went from 5-4 springs to 8-6 in the past..... I also changed the engine. So maybe I need a re-valve. In any case it was a question, and it could not be suffered to live. Pictured: Annoyance ^----ahhhh, refreshing! Also, while I’m buying bushes.. ….why not buy every bush? For the whole car? The front too? ….lets remove the front subframe while we’re at it, because.. there’s no engine there.. ……so maybe we should clean up the engine bay …maybe we should create fuel lines/adapt to the 34’s fuel system …. maybe we shouldn’t use rubber lines.. maybe we should have braided hose and fittings for fuel the whole way.. ….maybe we should get that e85 flex sensor all plumbed in.. before the car is going….instead of later …maybe we should have braided lines for the catch can too… while we're buying lines... …maybe we should have custom hard lines made for the coolant lines to the heater….. while we're doing lines.. …maybe we should relocate the oil cooler….... while we're buying lines.. ….maybe I should get around to cleaning up the engine bay… This was also the bulk of the cost, and a LARGE, LARGE, LARGE % of the head f**ks. We actually decided to do this in sections, i.e the rear of the car first, because it had 0 thinking to do, then we planned on doing the Engine bay part of things, then the middle/gearbox/clutch part last. The plan was to have everything done to the point where the only thing the car would need was wiring, and an exhaust fabricated up. Also, anyone want to buy my diff? This is where I spent $800 (receipts available!) to have my diff totally taken apart and rebuilt, and told nothing was wrong with my somewhat-clunkier-than-others 1.5 way diff, and that's just how they are. How they are is a 2 way diff, which was somehow missed in that $800 adventure. I'll leave it to your imagination how that diff drove with the new/refreshed/reinforced subframe.
  26. 1 point
    Super lazy way, just +10 advance the intake cam, will wake up the motor in no time. *** edit, make sure you use all the available tools to accurate dial in the cam within limits, i.e. could be less than 10 degrees of advance before things kiss.
  27. 1 point
    Some of these responses are inaccurate and misleading.. I feel people are just repeating theories they've read Once again -- The cams are unlikely to be dialled in correctly Work from "easy / cheap" to "hard / expensive".. and preferably not go backwards Open inlet 6466 Gen2, 2.6 crank, 272 cams will work together Might need a couple more pounds boost to get it working more efficiently, but if its coming on @ 5500rpm then there is another issue I've driven my setup on 21psi before (gate pressure) and it basically comes on the same
  28. 1 point
    Welcome to SAU - first time posting! Firstly - RB26 are not known for strong low-mid range torque. Your combination of 272 cams and a 6466 that's barely working at 18psi/600hp can't be expected to "wake up" much before 5000rpm. Referring to on-off throttle driving, not what's seen on a dyno sheet. Secondly - quality of design/fabrication can vary wildly. Shapes, sizes, angles, merges all play a part in how things work. Your manifold design, 2 into 1 wastegate pipe merge etc is an unknown. Was the wastegate pipe divided right up to the valve? Maybe create a build thread for your car and post up a few pictures to help people see what your car is like. Thirdly - tuning outcomes can vary wildly. The engine hardware creates limitations, but so does the tuner's knowledge of how to make something work on the road, as opposed to the dyno. Something to consider. Running 100 octane petrol is no bad thing - your tuner should have capitalised on its knock resistance with an ignition map approaching what might be seen with E85. Fourthly - final drive gearing definitely alters the way a car feels on road, as per previous comments. If you can source a set of 4.375 diff gears for your car, the extra rpm in any gear for a given road speed is going to accentuate responsiveness. Suggestions - install some stock RB26 cams, and spend some dyno time dialling them to what you think you want. Retain the 6466, talk with your tuner about boost control and what they can do to achieve best spool. And run another 5psi boost to get an idea of what its capabilities are like.
  29. 1 point
    My RB34 with the 6466 Gen1 1.0 opens the gates at 18lb (boost controller off) at 3400 rpm. I've still got a 1.3 housing here... One day I'll get around to fitting it, with the hopes of stopping the kw drop off around 7500 rpm.
  30. 1 point
    There is a guy that lives in NZ running a 6466 with a .84ar on a stock bottom end and 4.3 diffs. The response is amazing. Im running at 6466 with a 1.0AR with stock diff ratios and definitely feels "lazier" than his car.
  31. 1 point
    Nope, thats got nothing to do with it.. ive got an open .82 and im making 30psi at 4500rpm, running 272 10.2mm HKS cams If the setup is only making 18psi @ 5500rpm, I would be looking at dialling in the cams better Edit: 2860-5s are way shitter in every way compared to the 6466, do not consider buying them, fix the issue with your setup
  32. 1 point
    My first suggestion would be to tone down the cams. Even to stock cams or some custom cams with less overlap but higher than stock lift (with some adjustable gears to get the optimum settings). So far as I can see aggressive cams are for engines operated principally at high revs...drag cars or circuit racers with a close ratio box. Secondly to convince you that going back to twins would be a retrograde step have a look at this video - it is definitely worth a watch: :http://www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-skyline-gtr-single-turbo-vs-twin-turbo Regarding turbo choice I have no advice for you - my experience runs only to an old school GT3540R. It could be that your turbo could be adapted but I will leave it to those with better knowledge than I have.
  33. 1 point
    A .82 rear housing is an open scroll turbine housing you need the .84 twin scroll one on a twin scroll manifold. i have a 6466 .84ts on my stock bottom end 2.6 and mine is all in at 4,100rpm
  34. 1 point
    New FE2 height springs and shocks are in. Raised the car about 30mm. Rear now is 360mm, front 370mm. All set for some Dukes of Hazard shit. One of the old Sachs dampers on the back was shot. Car drives nice and straight on the throttle and on the brakes. I had a rough go at getting the alignment sorted, it is pretty close, but will see JAX at Liverpool soon. I've got some camber bushings, some rear subframe bushings and a diff insert coming (next week), I'll get the alignment done after sticking them in. Also flushed the power steering. It's a super comfortable, virus free, old bogan cruise ship. Things that I'm planning on outsourcing: 1. Trans service with Transgo HD2 shift kit (service because it is due, shift kit for the LOLS). 2. Dyno time and tweek for 98 if required. 3. Auto elec to sort out cruise control, I've checked fuses, unpluged and replugged everything, I'm tapping out and sending it off to a professional. The thing is running pretty hard and nice and smooth, sounds the business on full throttle, looking forward to getting the shift kit in. STRAYA, f**k YEAH Edit: Check out the racing spec tow ball, #becausebogancruiseshipf**kyeah
  35. 1 point
    They say when dementia kicks in you revert to your younger years. But then, I've been demented all my life. In other news, the battery has passed the trickle charger test and will sit on charge for the night.
  36. 1 point
    People usually start with Commos and end up with mature sports cars. But you, lolwtfbbq
  37. 1 point
    Lots of reciepts Pacemaker headers and exhaust - 2016 VCM OTR - 2016 Tuned by "Oztrack" - 2016 Rebuilt diff 3.9 gears - 2016 Rebuilt transmission - 2016 New radiator - 2018 New T2 DBA rotors- 2018 Bushings - 2018 Lots of servicing and maintenance. History looks to be 1 owner till 2015, then next owner proceed to throw cash at it. From the googles it "should" be around 220ish kw and 500ish nm, I will see what it really is after I service it and it gets on the dyno.
This leaderboard is set to Sydney/GMT+10:00
×
×
  • Create New...