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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    The Japanese what? People in general or Nissan Japan? Here's a hint, Nissan Japan couldn't give a crap about the second hand cars that are exported from Japan, and would barely if at care about the second hand cars in Japan. You buying it in Australia means nothing to them.
  2. 1 point
    all V36 350GTs have a VQ35HR engine, swapping it to a VQ35DE may be possible, but would big $$$.. lots of custom work required and not worth the hassle. Are you sure it isn't must moisture, it isn't unusual for 'fog' to come out your exhaust on a cool moist mornings, it usually dissipates fairly quickly, unlike actual smoke which hangs in the air. Otherwise, white smoke that continues can be an issue with a blown head gasket or other issues allowing coolant to get into the cylinders.
  3. 1 point
    I believe the proportioning is built into the body of the MC, rather than anything to do with it's operating components. In any case, I feel the OEM brake bias on a car that is far from OEM isn't necessarily the best situation anyway. I don't know much about these things, but I've got Evo 9 Brembo calipers up front with factory Z32 calipers in the back, so I feel like a bit more rear bias won't hurt.
  4. 1 point
    Unsprung weight matters. Rota wheels are not forged they are cast. That is not to say they are rubbish - they are extensively tested - but to make cast wheels as strong as forged wheels you need to use more metal. Rays Volk make a variety of wheels but genuine Te37s are forged. Its a more expensive process but makes for stronger wheels. For the street your Rotas will probably be fine - there are lots around - but for serious track use people will probably pay more for forged wheels or even for wheels made of lighter metals.
  5. 1 point
    Gtrs are for discussing whos oem parts are the cleanest now
  6. 1 point
    God I love the GTR being blocked in by pink bikes with sparkley handle bar tassles. I've played this game before.
  7. 1 point
    Little bit of progress over the weekend, the interior has now been stripped out, just need to find the time to take care of the sound deadening (shudder) and gut the unnecessary stuff from the dash/doors/etc. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise, race cars pay for themselves All of the aircon gear has also been deleted, which was initially a bit hard to stomach for me... ABS is also gone Still need to get rid of the heater box from under the dash, but will wait to drain the coolant first. It's amazing how much room just the aircon and ABS takes up in the engine bay, it's already significantly neater in there. I also decided I wasn't going to mess around with the OEM wiring harness anymore, and it's time for a full motorsport spec harness for the car. OEM engine harness is out Absolute reliability is my goal, as I've seen enough motorsport to know that electrical issues can be one of the most expensive parts of having a race car. Making my own harness has been a long-term dream of mine, so I'm looking forward to the challenge. I also need the wiring to be capable of evolving with the setup as I develop the car; because I plan on using it to develop performance aero products I want to be able to log as much data as I can in relation to those products. I am already developing some laser ride height sensors in order to log downforce, and in the future I would like to be able to run additional sensors for things like pre-radiator temps for oil/water/air etc in order to work out how well my ducting is performing. While I'm at it, I've decided to convert to DBW throttle as well, to save having to modify that part of the harness later. All of this means that I am running out of AVI's on the ECU quite quickly. If I wired everything direct to the ECU, I would already have used all 16 AVI's with just the current sensors, 4 laser ride height sensors, and the DBW. The MXS Strada dash has 8 AVI inputs that I can make use of, but unfortunately doesn't have logging capabilities, and it is a bit hard to stomach the $1700 for the logging kit from AIM at the moment. So as an interim, I have setup the ECU and the dash on the bench, and am trying to workout how I can wire the non-critical sensors like ride height into the dash, and then stream that data to the Thunder via CAN in order to log it. Seems like such a simple idea, both units are able to transmit and receive CAN data, and the CAN channel is a loggable channel in the ECU. In practice, it's quite a lot of dicking around. AIM haven't made this dash very user friendly, so it isn't quite as straight forward as "receive this, transmit that". I may end up having to write a custom CAN protocol in order to get it to work the way I want, but the initial results seem to indicate that it can be done. This will free up a few AVI's on the ECU for future expansion. Next up, I've decided to pull the motor out. It's been 8 years since the motor was last out, and I'm looking forward to sorting out the things I did wrong back then, as well as cleaning up the engine bay again, probably weld up some unnecessary holes in the firewall, and making it a lot easier to route the new harness when it's done.
  8. 1 point
    That's the one bad thing about Neos, compared to 26s. Typically OHC engines with shims have them under the bucket. Makes them harder to change if you need to set the clearances, but also much less likely that they will get dislodged in a valve float event. Shim over bucket is "better" (read as cheaper) for the manufacturer and that little better for access if you have to redo the clearances, but they are far more likely to get spat out. Neos have a small reputation for spitting shims. Possibly not justified, all third hand stories, etc.
  9. 1 point
    Alternatively you can use standard G3 profiled 21U high flow thats bolton to factory location with minimum fabrication work. Made 282rwkws on P98 fuel and 330rwkws on E85 internally gated, super responsive.
  10. 1 point
    Start by jacking up the front first. Leave the jack stands on their lowest setting. Then do the rear. Then repeat each side slowly going up one step at a time, do not rush this unless you want the car sliding off the stands. R34 Skylines should be similar to R33 Skylines: If you are having trouble with rear clearance when lifting the front you may want to get some wood to drive the car onto first to raise it before you begin lifting the front.
  11. 1 point
    THE R33 CROSSOVER PIPE IS LITERALLY MUCH LONGER THAN THE R34 ONE BECAUSE THE R33 ONE DOES NOT HAVE THAT TCS THROTTLEBODY! What you are putting onto the car CANNOT be an R33 crossover pipe. Just look at some pictures of the engine bays! And it literally does not matter that one of your crossover pipes has a nipple tapped into it and the other one doesn't. Just connect the boost sensor to where it is supposed to be connected.
  12. 1 point
    Had a bit of fun on the weekend! Finally got around to installing the Cusco roll cage I’ve had since September! super simple to do, took about an hour. I’m waiting now for some 40mm roll cage steel to arrive so I can get a harness bar added on. Just a reminder this cage is not adr or cams approved but for the track days I do in the skyline don’t require one. Just wanted to add this in so I can run a HANS device safely. did need to move the wiring harness a little, but it literally just pulls off the floor and you can move it around the cage. cage I got is designed to keep your full stock interior, so far only needed to slightly cut the carpet, but clears all the panels fine. Still need to test fit the rear seat
  13. 1 point
    I do a lot of sim racing and I’ve realised I actually hate holding onto suede without gloves and when I am wearing gloves it doesn’t matter if it’s leather or suede for me. Also I absolutely hate the maintenance, you have the clean the damn thing every month and eventually it wears so bad it looks like leather... and I didn’t want a full leather wheel, I wanted some variation so went with the above
  14. 1 point
    agreed, spend the extra coin and go the 18" XD-9's. They look way better than 17" on an R33. 8.5 and 9.5 front and rear with a +30ish offset should see you sitting flush.
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