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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    You sound young. Here's a tip. Don't spend money on this car. As in, don't spend money you don't need to. Repairs to keep it going are fine. Don't get an idea that you need a new exhaust if the old one is working, then save up your pennies and throw it at the car the instant you have enough. Same with seats, wheels, etc. A new exhaust that is better than the old exhaust is only a good idea when the old exhaust is full of holes. New seats are a waste of money unless the old seats are buggered and/or will fail a roadworthy. Same with wheels, headlight globes, air filters, spark plug leads, etc etc etc. Own the car for a while. Decide if you like it. Save some money to NOT spend on the car. Do all these things, before getting carried away with throwing money at the car. In the meantime you will either fall in love with the car, or it will reveal itself to be a horrible money pit that you would be better off swapping for a Yaris (or it could do both). There is nothing worse than seeing every young lad follow the same path of throwing a ton of money into the first shitter that they get their hands on and every last dollar of that is effectively wasted. Now, I'm not ragging on you or your car. I'm sure that there are a few good R31s left out there and yours could be one of them. (But most of them have been used as mobile bong smoke storage devices for the last 25 years, so the odds are not real good!) I'm just giving you a free life lesson. And so, if you actually do have to replace the exhaust, then yes, a 2.5" system is a decent size for the power level. If you put a decent mid muffler in it and a Magnaflow or similar rear of a decent size it will give it a clean RB sound without it being too loud. Don't bother with stainless. Mild will likely outlast the car. If you want to spend time with the car doing things that make it look good and you feel good about it, there is nothing better than buying some cloths and some Meguiars (or similar) paint cleaning and polishing products and spending time bringing the paint and other surfaces back from whatever state they are currently in. Also, look to do thorough inspections on the brakes, the suspension bushes and arms etc, looking for wear, collapse, etc that will both cost you money and be a horrible safety problem if they fail while you're driving. Better to spend your time and effort learning about the things that really matter. Learn how to jack and support the car safely (so it won't fall on you and so the stands don't damage the underside of the car!) and start taking a close look at all the dirty bits.
  2. 3 points
    Really happy with tune 366kw low boost 390kw 2nd setting and 420kw high boost 18.5psi IMG_5120.MOV
  3. 3 points
    Here's how it finished up anyways
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Looks like I'm driving in supports for supertaxi in Townsville so will be able to give a good review of the Elig pads. Trying to get a few people onto them up here.
  6. 2 points
    NHB Automotive ๐Ÿ˜„ are doing 12% off all Elig Brake Pads for the month of August, no minimum sets required. www.nhbautomotive.com.au
  7. 2 points
    Mate that's a great result, I would say better than expected on 98. The Sard pump and injectors must be getting pretty close to being maxed out though. Good stuff ๐Ÿ‘
  8. 2 points
    Well said. Iโ€™m onto my 7th skyline and Iโ€™m 41 years old. Would be down 70k over the years with money pumped in. Stereos,subs,exhausts,wheelsetc. Give it some love and it will love you back. Money is hard enough to get , without pumping it into something you will piss off in 18 months. Struts, bushes etc and just get the squeaks out of the old girl, and enjoy the 3litre beast.๐Ÿ‘Œ
  9. 1 point
    Yes, you have the same thing. It is a buss connector for all your shield grounds. Basically any of the shielded signal wires that go to the ECU, so CAS, MAF, knock, etc, all have their shield earthed through that connector. If you look at the OEM circuit diagram, you will see a dotted line around some of the lines (pin 55, 54, 44, 45, 46, etc) - this dotted line indicates that shield ground.
  10. 1 point
    Yeh go ARP main studs. And then make sure your machinist has a line bore machine and will actually line bore the tunnel properly. So many try to get away with not machining the parting faces, which is essentially the same as not doing the job at all. My tunnel was 2 thou out of round with the ARP studs, so needed 6 thou taken off the parting faces to take it back to the bottom limit and get it round again.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    So not much more big progress on the sil80. Removed the radiator and got it chemically cleaned as I had left water only in the system for over a year, cleaned up the thermostat housing and inspected the thermostat which I'll replace as a precaution. Got some stainless steel bolts and washers to mount the new heatshield I made. Struggling to find a quality 14inch thermofan that will fit as I don't think a 12inch will be upto it(I have a 14 inch pusher on the condenser). Got the lines and new reservoir to finish the power steering off. That's about where I got to before I found out the car club I am part of looks like to be running a super sprint for the supertaxi event here so have directed attention to getting the race car ready for it. It's still in Brisbane but have organised new front lca with ball joints and a replacement tierod end for the broken one. Going to remove the vented bonnet and go back to factory steel as it is a lot better condition and looks neater so have prepared it for paint over the weekend. And to top it off I've been asked to navigate for Targa great barrier reef again this time in a pretty tough VH SS as covid border closure won't allow the regular navigator into Qld. Give the cars page a like on facenovel https://m.facebook.com/car689/ Pretty busy few weeks ahead and still got to retrieve the race car from Brisbane too ๐Ÿ˜…
  13. 1 point
    Itโ€™s on rwd hub dyno
  14. 1 point
    there you go no need to touch it.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Hmm. 78k. Divided by 20 years. That's, um.... about....um....less than 4000km per year. And you believe that? It might have been 78k km in 2007.
  17. 1 point
    I've often been recommended Ferodo as well. Must be pretty good if you had to mention them twice. I'll stick to EBC Red for the Nissan but the crapbox BF wagon might get Ferodo instead of the Bendix Ultimates I've been buying on special every now and then.
  18. 1 point
    https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php All your questions have been answered there I still have my R31 which I bought 15 years ago! Spend the minimum amount on maintenance etc. Exhaust upgrades is meh, 2.25 with two good mufflers is plenty. Not worth on a standard RB30E. Spend the money on bushes, better brakes, suspension, tyres, etc. Loads to do before touching the engine and exhaust.
  19. 1 point
    Next job is to fix the past owners short sightedness, why would you insulate the roof but not the walls. No way can I now remove the walls and install the thin stuff the shed builders use. So after much thinking, many beers and the odd fag I decided to frame the walls with wood with the intention of using proper insulation and lining the walls with wood paneling. Now up here we have a country auction place that sells once a month and they had 3 bay racks and bugger me they were the same height as the cross beams so I bought them and made a mezzanine floor, my god that took some work, but Iโ€™m happy with how they worked out. The plastic boxes in the pics are Bunnings again and fit excellently. Also he installed led baton lights, 2 per bay, no idea what he was thinking as you canโ€™t see for shit and me getting old I need lights lights and more lights. I had acquired some years ago big hi quality led down lights, so I made wooden mounts and mounted them to the roof beams using Bunnings chain, for me a very scary job as I hate ladders after falling off one some years ago. I have moved the 6 batons to my work area and am installing the down lights above the cars with much thanks to my neighbour for wiring up all the lights and heaps more power points. Enough for now.
  20. 1 point
    There's lots of ways to do it, some of them are a bit more of a hack job than a well setup system, but it all depends on what your car has as to what logic you use. Obviously the best is to have a brake/clutch pressure sensor, in combination with a strain gauge on the gear lever or a true gear position sensor so that the ECU knows if you are upshifting or downshifting and what gear you are going to be in before the clutch is engaged. This is why it is a bit simpler with a sequential compared to a H-pattern. But you can also somewhat fudge things based on logic using the brake light and a clutch switch vs falling road speed, etc. so it is perfectly possible to setup with a H-pattern as well.
  21. 1 point
    Can still get these new in japan for like $150
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