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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/19/2020 in all areas

  1. That sounds like a crock of shit to me.. I've they've sent you the wrong item surely they'd offer an exchange... ? Unless you ordered the wrong part number?
    1 point
  2. Well might be time for an update, I’ve been in a bit of a shopping spree, bought a set of factory seats, factory Jap spec seat belts, genuine diff housing, numerous genuine nuts, bolts, clips, etc. Got new rear quarter upper trims as well as a few other bits and pieces for the interior. I’ve got almost all the parts I need to start the new rear end set up. Bought a new Whiteline sway bar kit. Whiteline subframe bushes and the GK Tech hicas elimination kit and subframe brace kit. Got a GTR diff housing yoke and new ring and pinion gear. Got my hands on a second hand set of 31 spline stub axles and will be using a quaife centre. Car is still at the shop, has had quite a bit done, brakes are done, now fitted with brembos front and rear, callipers overhauled with new seals etc. Blasted and re coated. N1 brake line kit fitted and abs deleted. Coil overs were removed and sent away to be serviced, new seals etc. Hard pipes are done and coated (no more silicone joiners) front cover of the turbo has been hydro dipped. I’ve ordered a new front lip from concept garage, should pick that up tomorrow. If you’ve read the thread, the car was towed to the shop, initially thought a fuel pump failure, have since discovered its wiring. Basically, it’s a bit of a mess so we’ll be ripping it all out and fitting a pdm. I’m also discussing option with the fuel system set up. Looking at moving the battery to the boot and fitting a surge tank where the battery normally sits. Will be exactly like this setup. This will get rid of the surge tank in the boot and the lines from the rear of the car. there is probably stuff I’ve missed, it’s been a little full on with it and I’ve got GTR parts all over my house! Lol
    1 point
  3. Chrome was an epic weekend got my first couple runs on Hoosiers, it was only roll racing but it was good to get a feel for them before I hit the strip with them. Those that have used them it’s an uneasy feeling having the rear of the car kind of float down the track but was told just to keep it flat and just go with it. Friday and Sunday where the only days that the track was hot enough for me to be able to use high boost and holy heck 620hp it just so much fun but the 123s in 265 real struggle to hold the power down so going to look at a custom set of work rims to suit the rear ended and make the most of the guard room I have. Drag racing is well fingers crossed starting up in 6weeks so I have time to get it set and ready to run a 10. Car will run an easy 11 as I was doing 12.3 on semi slicks. Hope everyone is keeping safe
    1 point
  4. Hi mate. I saw your post on the Haltech forum about the 16 pin connector. Refer to my earlier post, I said "lift up", not lift up and completely remove the centre tab bit. It's not supposed to move far. After looking at what you've done to the connector you've probably stuffed it, as that centre part is not supposed to come right out, and won't, unless there is no pins in it. I'd be replacing the entire thing now. It's just a lock for the pins. You stick something sharp to flick it up no more than a mm just to release it, put your pin in, hear it click, and then snap the tab back down. Click Do you even have a crimper that will do the pin ? As I said it's pretty specific. I good one that works and is cheaper than an AMP / TYCO crimper is the Jaycar one. You want something that doesn't ratchet for such small pins. Note the small end part- Works well.
    1 point
  5. Run in tune & cold start done. Car comes home tomorrow morning. Will get some KM's up on it before turning up the wick.
    1 point
  6. Yes. And no. What Ben is trying to say is that the sync timing is not the idle timing. Manuals (RBs) should idle at 15°. Many of the autos idle at 20° because it makes them have a little more torque at idle which is needed to keep the engine working against the load of the torque converter. The sync timing just means that the ECU knows what the actual engine angle is. The actual timing that is run at any moment is then simply what one table or another in the ECU demands. 4000rpm and 20 psi of boost? Likely to be about 20°. That's 20° exactly, because the ECU knows where zero is (because the ECU was told where 10° was).
    1 point
  7. With the haltech (and other ecus) all that has to happen is they match. Can be any number you want with an ecu that you can lock the timing to that chosen number. Change it to 20 in the haltech and chech with gun, it will be on 20.
    1 point
  8. Throw the Haltech right in the bin and get a Link ecu. They are way better and more reliable.
    1 point
  9. Oh, it’s also getting one of these.
    1 point
  10. 1990 R32 gtst Stock internals 6boost twin scroll t3 manifold dual turbosmart 40mm gates Holset HY35/10cm twinscroll turbine @ 20PSI R35 maf/4" intake Splitfire Coilpacks (Rewired S2 with no external igniter) DeatschWerks 550CC Injectors AEM 320 Pump (FPCM Removed, OEM Relay Rewired) FFP Cast Manifold 3.5" Downpipe to 3" Catback Nistune 94 AKI Pump gas 366WHP/273WKW and 301WTQ on a mustang dyno on a very hot day with a dead clutch fan. We we're letting it cool down between pulls near the end and I'm confident due to this it actually makes a bit more.
    1 point
  11. So you think I should just get a new bushing brass or plastic ?
    1 point
  12. Theres no knob I I haven't been able to pull off with two hands and a bit of spit. Start slow then build up speed. You can do it.
    1 point
  13. All series 2 cars (VIN 400001 and above, plus any of the 17 VIN with 010xxx) have black seats, with the except of the M-Spec and M-Spec nur which have black leather seats. These cars started August 2000. Also there are no V-Specs after this date. The grey seats in the car above aren't factory fitted. It also looks like it has the black door trims although it's a little hard to see.
    1 point
  14. I have a pair of guard liners with brake ducts attached. One duct has had a little of the front ground off. The other is in VGC. Both liners and undertray are in very good condition apart from a few of the attachment holes are cracked. I doubt you'd find any out there that aren't? Located in Seaford, Melbourne Come and get them I want them out of of the way. They normal sell for this without the brake ducts Price $150
    1 point
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