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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/03/2020 in all areas

  1. If you're going to turbo the car, your first step would be to put the turbo on the car, and then get all the associated parts on it to support it (exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, ECU, etc) What ever this growler kit is won't help you in that endeavour
    2 points
  2. Not much to update. Dash insert turned up today and I test fitted the screen. Had to slightly enlarge the mount holes due to differences in the Powertune vs. the insert. (As they are both 3D printed). Waiting on the pilot lights (Turning up Tomorrow/Friday). Waiting for stage 4 restrictions to ease up before I get a wheel alignment and put some km's on it.
    2 points
  3. It's not really limp mode. It's just the ECU chucking the sads. they don't cope. You have to go into the DTC stuff and switch off the offending codes. The doco should tell you how. I have a Neo in an R32. No TCS, no ABS. I had to fix all that stuff. It also pays to get the Nistune board programmed as a Stagea in the first place, because they don't have TCS.
    1 point
  4. But for mild engines it's not as much trouble. So it depends how hard you want to lean on it too.
    1 point
  5. It's available online here with some notes too: https://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&p=25972 Just note the Nistune cable and software does add up, so weigh out the pros/cons before starting. As much as I love Nistune with its flex capabilities, 3Dx boost tables, super rudimentary engine protection, the R34 NEO ECU is just so hard to work with, especially when you're running big boost and it just always kisses the last TP Load row.
    1 point
  6. So it looks like it has a nistune type 4 board in it. Can the traction control definitely be turned off with the nistune software? I guess logging in and seeing What the nistune shows would be a good start to diagnosing what’s wrong. Will need to get the software
    1 point
  7. When I say "press out" I don't mean "break out". On the R32 these are all tabbed in with clips that can go in and out as many times as you like.
    1 point
  8. Read Kinkstah's thread re: engineering a car to give you some idea. I think its a headache and not worth spending that cash on your 31. I'd save the pennies if you're that keen and buy a 33 and work on that. Or save for a deposit on a house and just enjoy your car the way it is until you get more experienced on the roads. My 2c.
    1 point
  9. Probably. They really pack the sulks in hard if not given everything they want. Of course, there could be heaps of other problems. Dose's suggestion above is really sensible, because it cuts through a whole pile of shit you have to wade through if trying to get a stock ECU'd transplant working in a foreign car. There are so many things that can trip you up.
    1 point
  10. I wouldn't even bother asking that question until you work out whether you need to spend another $5k on engineering before you'd even be allowed to do it. I'm in SA. We have it much better than the Nazi state that you live in. But even here it is strictly illegal to just throw a turbo onto a car. You must get approval from Regency (our Vicroads) before you start, and they will demand engineering where it is needed, and I'm pretty sure that turboing a vehicle that never had a turbo variant will require engineering.
    1 point
  11. Just put in a Haltech or a Link, unlock power, economy and benefit of engine protection.
    1 point
  12. Also new Deka 20 battery, even after being on the tender all night, the thing would struggle turning over the big old girl. And how good are new gloves, I got a pair of Alpine Star SMX 2 air carbons, my last set of summer gloves ended up being repurposed to work gloves, these new gloves fit amazing, have a ton of protection and breathe really well. I wish my $1100 custom leather jacket jacket would arrive.
    1 point
  13. Got my 3D racing solutions cluster today for the IC7. Overall happy with the quality. Hopefully the fitment is good. The dash was delayed by 3 weeks, it it seems business for them has significantly increased during covid. I think this is cheaper than the mako dash at 275 posted, which is also recessed. I think mako charge 350 for a recessed dash. Also 3D Racing Solutions is located in Sydney
    1 point
  14. Your first mistake was buying cheap spacers instead of BBS monoblocks
    1 point
  15. Agreed, but wish i'd just been sent the correct ones to start with.
    1 point
  16. The only pipe that can get sucked shut is the turbo inlet elbow.....as it is the only one under suction when hauling. The pipes after the turbo are all.....wait for it....under positive pressure.
    1 point
  17. I wouldn't bother with using the OEM ECU but that's mostly because I want to be able to do things like install a crank trigger, possibly go E85, VCAM control, dynamic boost control based on knock count/flex fuel, etc. There's a lot of barriers to tuning with the OEM R33/R34 ECU too, there's no Nistune board available so you have to find one of the discontinued Techtom ECUs or something comparable to use for live tuning, then find a discontinued Hitachi H8/534 chip that is blank, burn it, then replace the chip on the ECU. Japanese tuners have all of this down but their tunes are all for higher quality gas than I can easily buy. So if you move to CA then you're going to have to retune unless you want to knock your engine to death. Mine's ECUs are pretty notorious for doing this. They depend on Japanese 100 RON. I'm pretty sure most tuners also pour epoxy over the chip once they're done to keep people from reverse-engineering their tune, but it also makes it very difficult to reuse the ECU. My car is still in Japan, I'll post my time to get through emissions compliance when it happens though. Should be able to get the car started on that process before the end of the year. It'll definitely be a while, but probably not 6 months. Probably.
    1 point
  18. if it's even made it into Australia yet it's probably still a few more months of quarantine
    0 points
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