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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/24/2020 in all areas

  1. Well, it’s getting there, car is almost done, dash configuration is being completed, (it looks good) and the last bits and pieces are being fitted. With a bit of luck might have it home some time next week.
    3 points
  2. Time to park up my R33 GTS-T until it hits the half-mil guaranteed future price
    2 points
  3. How is a different oil pump drive or external pump drive going to stop harmonics?
    2 points
  4. It's 2020. All Skylines are worth $100k. - Non turbo R32 GTS that's been outside and hasn't been turned over in a decade? $30k - 1994 R33 GTST Automatic with ebay parts and Nismo dash? $25k - 1989 GTR 32 with 300k kms and 'Jasma' brand exhaust $50k - 1995 R33 GTR, white with yellowed headlights $65k The world's gone nuts. Ask what you want for it, there are plenty of dummies out there who'll pay $30k+ for it. Not saying it's a bad car, it's actually very nice and I like it. But the market is dumb right now, take advantage of it.
    2 points
  5. Whilst a clean low km original car may be worth bookoo coin the modified rust repaired variants will still be only 5 figure cars. People will pay for clean OEM's, like every other classic, but modified is less desirable. The yanks have over inflated the prices for these cars because of their love of F&F, once the dust has settled, like every orher massed produced classic the price will stabilise. The time now is the sellers market. Remember the GTS, GTHO and Shelbey prices 10 years ago, what are they worth now? Don't get dragged into to futures markets with cars unless they are "limited edition" type cars. Meh, my VX SS is currently (apparently) worth 100% more than what I purchased it for.......LOL, luckily for me I have all the parts to return it to 100% stock, which is what people are looking for. IRT my SS, It will be worth the sum of its parts when I'm finished with it because I use it like a dirty bitch. LOL at the people who treat their cars as investments and don't truly enjoy them. Do a maaaaaaaaaad skid for baby Jebus ya maaaaaaaaaaad karnts. Lets race!
    1 point
  6. and years ago when I said GT-Rs will be six figure cars everyone treated me like a looney, that's whats LOL. now theyre a half a million dollar car simple it will keep going up there is not enough available to satisfy world demand and they are the most iconic street race car in world
    1 point
  7. I to was faced with such a 1st world / GT-R owner's dilemma. I opted for a single DIN head unit with fold out display.
    1 point
  8. Torque range because it clearly doesn't matter so much where it ends up. I don't understand "flange from the gearbox". Do you mean the input flange on the diff at the back end of the tailshaft? Most people just do bolts like that up as tight as they can manage with a regular ring spanner and say "click". I always just re-use subframe fasteners. Shit never comes off.
    1 point
  9. For those interested here's my Evo 9 and 7670 1.05 result. Alternator was getting sad so we capped it at that for now. Turbo speed is 126K out of 140k so there's still a bit left in the tank. We also capped torque at 670nm to keep my gearbox happy. My tuner believes there's probably around 420kw & 700+nm of torque in it on full send mode.
    1 point
  10. BRB.. I'll call Nitto and tell em their cranks should be rated to under 9k, and under 1000hp.
    1 point
  11. This is the inspiration for my build. Garage Bomber gtr. This thing made 760hp at the wheels in 1999 and ran [email protected] I still think its one of the best finished gtrs.
    1 point
  12. Things are moving slower then expected. Had a months delay on rust repair. But if all goes well, the car is getting picked up this week to get the rust repaired and engine bay repainted. On the parts side, I have managed to secure all the interior parts I was missing. Plus: Virgin RD28 block. PRP block brace with integrated caps A head which has been ported, polished, +1mm valves. 260/10.25 cams. Will be going 3.2 instead of 3.4 to limit bearing wear due to sideload of long stroke.
    1 point
  13. Didn't we just do a version of this thread over there? xJZ is not a great swap for a nissan chassis, everything is on the wrong side. Of course it can be done (anything can be with enough time and money), but unless you are doing it for your youtube subscriber numbers, don't do unnatural things with a nissan!
    1 point
  14. Thanks I’m pretty happy with the way it looks, took me a long time to find a Leather Interior but was well worth the wait. I don’t have a lot of great photos unfortunately but these show most angles. Thanks.
    1 point
  15. More like $1100 - $2000 for a good extended sump. On my blue 32 it has a Nitto pump and a Lewis engines 8+ litre sump as it's a big dollar Nitto 2.8. But I'm not sold that it's an absolute 100% deal breaker to run a Nitto pump without a big sump. Flow rate major increases are really only up in the high revs, 7000+. They mention long nose crank or crank collar as definite must, but not absolutely, MUST run a bigger sump. Increases are as below. What is not mentioned is that the flow rates quoted are at the dual spring higher pressure, I guess because the pump flows the same at a given rpm, and the relief valve will only bypass very high in the rpm if set to 120psi. It is possible to drop the pressure to the engine bearing and head supply though running one spring, which will infact decrease the flow rate at the high rpm range when the flow output really becomes substantially more with the higher 120psi relief valve setting. 75psi will definitely make the flow lower to the bearings at the mid to higher rpm range as the valve will bypass earlier, returning excess oil directly to the sump. How much lower the flow at the bearings will be I'm not exactly sure, as it's definitely not a linear ratio and I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer. @GTSBoy care to have a crack at the flow differential calc ? Just to add to info below Tomei pumps are 56L/min at 6000rpm for comparison sake. Factory is still 46L/min at 6000rpm, indicating factory relief valve is already open providing no more increased flow above 6000rpm. FLOW RATES (LITRES / MIN) ENGINE RPM FACTORY PUMP NITTO HIGH VOLUME PUMP 750 4.6 6.5 2200 15.3 20.2 7000 46.5 64.8 PRESSURE RELIEF VALUE (RELEASE PRESSURE) Dual Springs 120 psi * Outer Spring Only 75 psi * * Denotes Approximate Maximum Oil Pressure NITTO OIL PUMP GEAR VS FACTORY GEAR DIMENSIONS DIMENSION FACTORY NITTO DIFFERENCE Outer Gear Diameter 76.85MM 81.50MM 6% LARGER Outer Gear Width 11.00MM 14.35MM 23% LARGER Tooth To Outer Wall Width 2.55MM 4.85MM 47% LARGER On the second 32 were doing now we've built engine already with a stock sump and Nitto oil pump. We're confident it'll be ok as a mainly street and sometimes street drag car with the additional stuff fitted to optimise the stock sump volume restriction: Head 1.1mm oil supply restrictor in block (stock is 2.0mm), Tomei sump baffle at oil pickup, modified enlarged sump oil return holes, Franklin engineering AN10 rear head drain/breather to sump, twin AN10 rocker cover breathers to catch can with separate AN10 sump return and an HKS 13 row oil cooler with 70deg thermostat filter relocation. This will be fine, although the cooler and line setup also does add nearly an extra litre to the oil volume for a bit of an increase in capacity, restrictor tries to reduce as much oil being pumped out of sump to head and then the rest is really to facilitate getting the oil back to the sump faster - so it's not exactly a "stock" sump setup I guess. Look at the end of the day if you can go a bigger sump it's always better, even with the lower flowing standard or N1 pumps. Definitely no argument there. If you can go bigger, do it.
    1 point
  16. BUT - with a Nitto pump you NEED an extended sump. With an N1 pump/billet gears in a street car, you could get away with an OEM sump. Not sure if the OP already has an extended sump from the first couple of builds, then a Nitto pump is maybe a cost effective option. But if he needs the extended sump then thats another $600-$1000 on top of the price of the Nitto pump.
    1 point
  17. Welcome to the tuff and unforgiving world of owning a gtr. shit gets expensive real quick but the best advice is to do it once and do it right. it might mean saving longer and having it off the road longer but at the end you have peace of mind it’s less likely to let you down in the future compared to cutting corners
    1 point
  18. As above is completely correct. The engine is out, now is the time to address the oil issues. I'd be hesitant to reuse you existing pump, but I see where you're going. Buying a new N1 pump and then new billet gears for it is approaching the cost of just buying a new Nitto oil pump.
    1 point
  19. Kind of your call to make. If you only intend to use it as a street car, it may be ok. But don't forget that the oil pump is the achilles heel of the RB. Is that really where you want to be drawing the line for the budget? There is also no real need for spline drive gears, nothing wrong with billet flat drive gears unless you plan to live on the limiter.
    1 point
  20. Tnks, and thanks! It's cheap as chips, everything I bought with it or for it was, that's the way it gonna be, but everything will be done right, no corners cut here, if budget slows me.... So be it. Learning a lot, and hopefully will learn a lot from you yourselves along the way. I'm no stranger to car restorations! Normally work on 40 Yr old yokes, so this should be a breeze....... Yeh right. Atleast starting with a blank shell, I know what I've got, most skylines here are rot boxes, salted roads in winter, mostly wet, and mucky. Not good when most imports where not protected, very little paint on these from new, primer at best. Next step is allow paint to fully harden. Then seemsealer, and stonechip underneath. Learning how to protect front shock terrets from under and above, also boot seems that leak. As for a GTR, not my thing, sorry. RWD ONLY, are you joking! In the land of AE86, donuts and drifting.... Work so far includes, price of 5 glass blasting bags, and 3L of undercoat paint, less than 1 and 1/2 fills juice!
    1 point
  21. Shell was glass blasted and primed and undercoated this week, nothing held back, there was no repairs done on the shell previously, as with blasting, it's back to bare metal. Turrets are original and very clean. Overall for a 25 Yr old car, it's pretty solid.
    1 point
  22. Things are moving slower then expected. Had a months delay on rust repair. But if all goes well, the car is getting picked up this week to get the rust repaired and engine bay repainted. On the parts side, I have managed to secure all the interior parts I was missing. Plus: Virgin RD28 block. PRP block brace with integrated caps A head which has been ported, polished, +1mm valves. 260/10.25 cams. Will be going 3.2 instead of 3.4 to limit bearing wear due to sideload of long stroke.
    1 point
  23. Some how I missed that the box didn’t come with a speedo drive, jumped onto kudos website and a bit of money later have a brand new then put the transfer on the box and buttoned everything up and now the box is ready to go in the car
    1 point
  24. It's about piston speed, your RB30 crank at 9k rpm has 17% more piston speed and load due to the increased stroke. Granted this is helped somewhat by a superior rod angle and ratio from the taller block, but you are still putting the additional load through a bearing with the same surface area. Use RB30, more boost, less RPM
    1 point
  25. Are you aiming for a rev limit or power/torque output? The key difference is not so much the longer stroke, but the taller block. This means rb30 block has a better rod/stroke ratio which is more efficient. RB26 block, particularly with a big stroke crank leads the piston to rock around in the cylinder way more. Yes, longer stroke (which ever block) gives larger capacity but more piston speed for the same rpm which is theoretically a downside (nothing for free in physics) Having said that, I don't have a 1000hp RB30 or a 1000hp RB26.....neither of mine make more than about 600hp which is pretty tame these days. I would like both to last more than a few events though....
    1 point
  26. I paid $1600 to buy the replicated Consult3+ scan tool and software from AliBaba back in 2012, at a time when Nissan were charging $12k for theirs, which included a Panasonic Toughbook notebook. So long as he doesn't rock up with some crappy little Android application and a Bok Choi Wun Hung Lo OBD2 tool, I'd say he's charging a fair price for his services.
    1 point
  27. I've had this kit for a few years with no problem https://justjap.com/jjr-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-nissan-rb26dett-r32-gtr-black.html
    1 point
  28. Hybrid turbo....as a general rule if you are producing more power then you will use some oil, its a fact of life. I'm not sure where it starts to burn oil [and would change with each motor anyway] but probably around the 200-250rwkw and increases with power output. As a rough guide 300rwkw would be approx 1/2 to 1 litre per 1000km.
    0 points
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