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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/13/2020 in all areas

  1. Right so I'm either dumbest, most gullible person on the planet or a fiercely brave groundbreaker! I've ordered the Speedtek gearset and will hopefully see it early to mid December. I got the assurances I felt I needed from him (Alex) and I also spoke to a guy in NZ with a 610kW R33 GT-R running the gearset. He's run a 9.7 sec quarter mile on it. I specifically asked him about a) the service he received from Alex and b) the product itself including fitment. This guy had nothing bad to say. Alex's remarks (be they right or wrong) were that at this point he wasn't too fussed about chasing work in Australia at this point (maybe he realises he's burnt too many bridges here and minimal chance of recovery?) as the majority of his gearsets are heading to drifters/racers overseas and the number of them he's currently selling are the capacity of his workshop anyway so he probably wouldn't be able to handle much more in the way of capacity. If anyone wants to know, I got the 1-5 gearset with a 0.7 ratio 5th gear and their billet centre plate. All up it was $4200 including post (*** if my wife is reading this I'm actually grossly exaggerating, I got it all for $420 and fitment was free.... But, if I'm dead and you're selling my shit to afford a bood job, it WAS worth $4200 plus about another $1000 to get it further treated and assembled, send me a photo and make sure you look after the kids xx.***). It's an expensive gamble and I'll be pooping myself until the first time I dump the clutch at full noise! I'll be 100% honest throughout the whole thing. If I get effed over and I've blown $4200 I'll admit it and admit that I'm a moron for disregarding everyones warnings. If everything goes to plan and it does everything I'm hoping it will do, I'll admit it and will sing the praises of the product and the service I have received so far. On that note, I cannot fault his contact from initial contact to the point of me making the payment. This includes some pretty late hours responses to my fairly confronting questions regarding his ownership of any dramas. So far, so good. Stay tuned for full disclosure!
    4 points
  2. Had a chat to the owner of this GTR yesterday. What an amazing car, it was so quick across the back of the track I couldn't believe how late the breaking was. Unfortunately he was leaving when I finally said g'day so I didn't get much info but no doubt somebody on here knows more about it.
    3 points
  3. Well, what can I say? I wish I'd done tyres to my old cars rather than other stuff first. I couldn't believe how well the car performed on the RS4's. They just kept holding up all day, I think I did 6 sessions and each session was just so good. In the old days my car would give up after 2 or 3 sessions and even before giving up it wasn't great. The 330 just kept going and holding and not over/under steering (unless I was in too hot). Can't get over how good they are. If R compound tyres are even better then by the time I learn how to drive again I'll have to upgrade. Was so good to be able to trust the tyres and brakes 100%. Neither let go. Awesome. Thanks guys. Looks like I'll be trying to do more track days in the future with the old girl.
    3 points
  4. OSG 5 speed assuming a 265/35x18 tyre, 4.11:1 diffs and 8000 rpm is 87 138 190 234 290 or 310 using the stock 5th ratio. Factory is 75 120 180 234 310 Having spent the time, effort and money OSG 5 speed (and breaking it with 470 rwkw), it really is a sideways step. Same result as a factory box (they break) and the gear ratios SUCK. They’re just too tall not to mention the 5 speed setup isn’t the nicest box to shift. Getrag’s as mentioned above are not worth it anymore BUT they are a much nicer shifting box. With the 3.0 you won’t want a Getrag/4.11:1 anyway. Be rowing gears like a stock evo BUT a 6 speed does wake the car up so much. Question, IF this 5 speed doesn’t last behind the 3.0/8474, what will you do then... apart from put it up on jack stands and cry. It’s a shame there isn’t a decent synchro 6 speed box that is strong as an ox, large input shaft, synchro that bolts straight in and can get replacement parts for. It’s one of those things as a GTR owner is almost like a rite of passage. Up the grunt, build a big donk, blow the driveline to the moon. Bit like realising you’ve spent 10 years playing in the sandpit with twin turbo’s thinking they’re the “way it has to be” 🤣.
    2 points
  5. Got the car back, the car is even more LOL Did cut drive around short because it looks like the mother of all storms is just about to unleash hell
    2 points
  6. Not great, but a start - 1:18.9 was my best. Sucked too as my car started missing on that lap (last of the day) and I cruised the straight. Could have gotten lower 1:18 if I could have stayed on the throttle. My brother in law with his 130i (same car minus 100kg) managed a 1:16 so its definitely my driving.
    2 points
  7. Join the SAU Victoria team for a social cruise through the Sherbrook Forest. Initial meeting point will be Upway IGA carpark. The cruise will head through Belgrave and on to Gembrook via the spectacular Sherbrook Forest. Where: IGA Upwey, 62-64 Main St, Upwey VIC 3158 Map: https://goo.gl/maps/17R6emXMEuT71ACo7 When: 8:30am Sunday 29th November Please keep in mind this is an SAU event. To participate you will need to be an existing SAU member or, sign up on the day for 24 hours for a gold coin donation. This is due to our CAMS affiliation. I will also take this opportunity to remind everyone, this isn't a race, it's not a rally, it's a cruise, at or below the speed limit. All details will be passed onto relevant authorities if requested.
    1 point
  8. you know, you should cosinder buying a r33 gtst. they could be fun on a race track! look nice in white
    1 point
  9. Sad thing is, with a >500 kw GTR, the driveline costs to do properly just as much as the engine. Anyone can chuck a big turbo at it, making it reliable and useable is a totally different kettle of fish. Diffs (front diff on these things are THE BEST MOD YOU CAN DO), transfer case and box. *insert throwing cash out the window .gif*
    1 point
  10. The important thing is you had fun. You may not know it yet but the fun may have been 99% of the fun you would have had in a much faster car. Tyres and brakes that give up well before you even get going are NOT fun. Over heating is NOT fun. It sounds like you avoided those problems which is a great day in any book!
    1 point
  11. @PranK time for a Samsonas, that will fix it.
    1 point
  12. that is cool, is it for time attack or circuit/improved production? like the datsun sticker under the wing end plate
    1 point
  13. Yes but you can use the stock 5th with an OS giken gearset too, which is what I have in my 33. The tall first gear gets you roughly about 100km/h compared to about 80km/h with the stock 3.214. The gearset in effect makes it closer ratio spacing between 1st - 4th. @mr_rbmanQuoting myself from another thread about the Getrag, but in a nutshell the Getrag is a bit like having a 5 speed OS gearset and shoving a super short gear in front of 1st. R34 Getrag: 3.827, 2.360, 1.685, 1.312, 1.000, 0.793 final drive 3.545 Ignoring 1st, 2nd to 6th gears it's similar ratios to a Giken 5 speed. May aswell not have the 1st in it with 4.11, so what's the point of using a Getrag 6 speed in an 32 / 33 unless you want a very short 50km/h Motorkhana gear ?
    1 point
  14. $10K? Good luck finding one for that! I haven't seen one under $12K for nearly a year now. I believe they've now gone beyond the point of considered good bang for the buck. I remember looking at them advertised for $6K for a full bolt in kit 4 or 5 years ago and thinking I'd love one but that it's way too expensive! Hindsight is a glorious thing! This is what Speedtek list as the ratios (identical to the OS Giken gearset ratios except 5th which OS use 0.826 which would be revving it's arse off at 100 km/hr)- GEAR RATIOS 1st: 2.695 VS 3.214 STD 2nd: 1.703 VS 1.925 STD 3rd: 1.236 VS 1.302 STD 4th: 1.000 5th: 0.7 VS 0.752 STD (0.7 is what I chose) In effect i guess they're longer rather than shorter gearing throughout the whole range. OS Giken has the shorter gearing on 5th which would help keep it in the revs going into 5th but Shouldn't have to change out of 1st gear quite as quick which is nice. With the normal box (from my very distant memory of driving it....) it barely felt like you were rolling off and it's time to go up a gear.
    1 point
  15. Case on its way for Anodizing and things are moving. At end of the day - do I really need a Albins, Samsonas, Hollinger etc? No. Car has never seen a track day, drags, etc. Occasional street driving, cruzin, etc - and back in the garage. Its way over kill for what I will ever need - but - hoping I will never have box issues again (at least not for a very long time). I am setting up the internal oiling system on the Albins to run to a rear diff cooler (Z Tune style).... again huge overkill for me - but fark it will be functional and look amazing. I have also slightly tweaked the shifter /strain gauge setup/look to what's offered standard. Adding a new Motec ecu and c1212 dash etc. when the box goes in. (thanks to Moray). Ill just chill and wait - I'm sure this box will be more than I ever expected or needed! Its a investment (that's what I tell myself so I don't cry) Dan
    1 point
  16. Haltech have just updated the IC7, you can feed the raw fuel level signal straight into the dash now if that's easier.
    1 point
  17. And here we are trying to remove spam from these forums 🙄😁
    1 point
  18. Aware of all that guys, I appreciate the concern and I understand it's a risk! I've read the reviews and I'm not going to lie I've got some hesitations but I'm willing to give them a go and support a local business as opposed to spending a heap more for an OS Giken gearset. Google Skyline problems and I'm tipping you'll find a few (thousand) dramas. Google Toyota problems and you'll also find plenty of posts. There's piss and moaners around every corner these days so I take them all in but come to my own conclusions at the end of the day. If I was judged on my actions from the past then I would have been given a lot less opportunities than what I have so I'm open to being convinced they have done the same. What is clear that he does seem to take ownership of the dramas. The guy that had the OS Giken gearset replaced did seem to get everything he needed (eventually!). I guess I'm hoping that 3 years later they're way more on top of their QC than back then... I have requested some assurances from him (which are just words at the end of the day) that they will back up their products and not dodge responsibility. If they can't give me the assurances I need then I'll be pulling the pin. Neat Gearboxes will be giving it a going over and making some minor modifications to it and I'm sure they'll tell me if it's not up to scratch. If it's not and it can't be rectified then I'll be chucking a major tanty. The reality is, if it wasn't that price I wouldn't be doing it and I'd be driving around with a stock shatter box like a nanna scared #hitless that it's about to go boom. Every man and his dog wants a sequential but that's just not going to happen so this is the only reality for me at the present time. I'm nervously optimistic that I'll be driving around with a smile on my face! If not, I'll be pissed off and making as much noise as possible to make sure it's made good! Only time will tell!!
    1 point
  19. As I had gone to the effort of getting higher end custom coilovers. I wanted to make sure I was setting them up right with the car's main use case in mind. Going fast on track while still being a "street car". Now the following setup guide might be overkill in the information department but i hope it to be useful for anyone looking to do a similar install. That said, my opinions and theories for coilover setup may not align with your own. With that out of the way... The first step was to set the shock body length so that at full bump there wouldn't be any significant interference with the body. To do this I disassembled the coilover, removed the spring and bump stop, fitted the aircup and reassembled the coilover. Without the spring and bump stop fitted, the coilover was put into the car. The LCA was then jacked up so that all of the shocks stroke was used. Then the bottom mount was adjusted so that at full compression the wheel was still able to rotate freely. For the front I also checked clearance throughout the steering arc. Make a note of the total shock body length and do not make this any shorter. As any shorter the wheel would be able to make contact with the body before using all of the available travel. This was done once for the front and rear then the body length copied to the other side. Assuming my guards are flared/rolled/mounted the same… haha… the shock body length is correct to allow for full use of the shocks stroke. Now it was finally time to assemble the coilovers and aircups. The bump stop was cut down with guidance from Shockworks to compensate for the change of usable stroke length. Spring reinstalled. The normal rubber spring locator was unable to be relocated to inside the aircup as the dimensions did not fit. As i did not want metal on metal contact for noise and wear another set of the plastic/teflon washers used on the lower spring seat were placed between the aircup and the spring. Shockworks were able to supply me with another set quickly and at short notice. So shout out again to them. On my particular coilovers the normal spring seat is on the top hat. As the new spring seat is the aircup which has now moved down the coilover to be on the shaft the effective top hat position has been moved by 40mm. As a comparison my old ISC coilovers the spring seat was lower due to the tophat design. Pictured below are two coilovers, one with the air cup and one without. They have the exact same bottom mount position (and shockbody length) with the spring installed with zero preload. It is easy to see how much "max lowness" adjustment you lose (40mm in my case). So the compromise for installing the aircups is: 40mm “max low” lost 20mm stroke lost Now the springs configured were 20mm shorter so effectively that leaves us with: 20mm “max low” lost 20mm stroke lost
    1 point
  20. As promised install and setup post. This may come in parts The Shockworks coilovers are a very nice quality piece of kit, very beefy and a nice neutral colour Through chatting to them about my goals for the car they were able to offer a custom solution with valving as well as spring rates and lengths (more on that later). they also come with their own install gloves. Very nice touch The Stanceparts aircups kit too is very well made and for those not familiar with them. No, they are not bags. But rather an air piston that essentially replaces your top hat. They are designed to be run in the "down" position and only lifted up to pass obstacles, get on hoists/jacks, and when cruising past rbts... When down they are a solid alloy spacer, this means no squish and the coilovers handle as normal. Now I mentioned spacer, in the down position they are exactly 20mm thick. They sit on the shaft portion of the coilover which means they to take up 20mm of the total stroke. The Shockworks coilover I ordered have a stroke of 100mm, so with the Stanceparts aircup installed that is now 80mm stroke. As the aircup is now the new upper spring seat this means the total "max low" will be reduced by at least 20mm depending on how the coilovers are made. To partially negate this my shockworks coilovers were configured with 20mm shorter springs. The aircup set needed to be ordered to suit correct shaft diameter, in this case 15mm as that's how they seal and fit to the coilover. The maximum lift the aircups can provide is 50mm but this will depend on a number of factors including your setup, spring rate and droop. The reason for this is that the lift actually comes from the droop or wheel extension in your suspension. This is another reason why they are not designed to be driven in the up position long term. When in the up position you will have no droop or wheel extension. Next up the install and setup
    1 point
  21. My version of standard series 3 wheel....
    1 point
  22. I decided to give the car a suspension refresh. It already has BC Gold coil overs but the rest was all OEM. I ordered the full Hard Race arm kit for front and rear and a set of SuperPro front and rear sway bars. Front: Adjustable upper control arm, Castor arm, 22mm Solid Sway Bar. Rear: Adjustable lower control arm, Traction arm, Camber arm, 22mm Solid Sway Bar One of the boys stopped in to give me a hand and we knocked out everything on a Saturday pretty easily. Front Rear Car is off for an alignment later this week so will see how it drives afterwards.
    1 point
  23. Been a while since I have updated this thread. Car is running awesome and have not done any major mechanical stuff, just added a few visual things to the engine bay. Decided to replace the factory strut brace. I found some carbon tube at work and with the help of one of the boys we machines up some end caps to suit. Used epoxy to bond the oval carbon tube to the end caps Had the strut mounts laser cut and then welded them together, pretty basic design. Turned out OK. Also made up a brake M/C stopper for no real reason other than I had a few hours free in the shed.
    1 point
  24. Go to out to wakefield today. Only got 20 laps in before I realised my tyres started delaminating. Reading up on it, seems to be a common issue for Kumho V70A's at wakefield. Not sure why it happens though. Used the first 5 laps to bed in some new brake rotors (got some 2 piece rotors) did 10 laps with an instructor as I have been struggling with turn 2 since the move to the skyline and then 5 hot laps before the tyre started to go on me. Ended up with a 1.09 but there is plenty left in the car! Can't wait to get out here again with some new tyres.
    0 points
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