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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/26/2020 in all areas

  1. Because I'm incredibly gifted at coming up with ways to slow the progress on my car I bought an el Cheapo EBay powdercoat gun so I can have a crack at powdercoating a few more bits and pieces as I go. I've tracked down a 900mm wide oven that should be big enough to fit decent sized parts in. It should fit rocker covers, valley covers and hopefully my turbo dump pipe as I've got some hi temp powder to put on that. I'll do the turbo housings at the same time. It's rated to about 700 degrees C which is probably not enough for a turbine housing and dump pipe but we'll see how we go! Hopefully if it is too hot for the powder it just discolours it rather than peeling off in big chunks. After I get a bit of practice I'll probably powdercoat my wheels as well as they're a little bit chippy and could do with renewing. Shoota's Powdercoating Services ready for business....
    2 points
  2. UPDATE First start tomorrow. Tune is booked for the 17th December. Will post the video here later tomorrow (if everything goes well).
    2 points
  3. I think FROM MEMORY (which is 7+ years old a memory now, maybe longer) you CAN snip the wires from the gearbox TO the TCU, and connect them to the corresponding pin on the GTT Engine ecu. I know it is documented on the workshop manuals as to what the pins on the TCU are *for* and there is a corresponding pin on the Engine ECU. I noticed this when I was removing the OEM TCU and wiring it into an aftermarket gearbox ECU. I never tried it myself, as I had an aftermarket ECU running the engine anyway. Yes, my fix for this at the time was run a standalone engine ECU for the GTT motor, and run a seperate gearbox ECU to run the gearbox, as the car sat around for 3 years outside of my control while it took specialized JDM workshops to... not... look at the manual and figure it out. Then there's the issue of the fact the NA gearbox is a piece of shit. The GTT gearbox when built up isn't exactly daily friendly either or performance friendly. Spend 10K+ on that. To get this absolutely clear, you won't have a nice, working enjoyable car unless you do the equivalent of an engine/gearbox swap, because that is what you will be doing. And why go to that effort.. for a NA+T and a... N/A auto box? Return everything not bought yet. Sell car. Buy 86. Add turbo. Posting here for future googler's reasons. There is no cheap way to a R34 GTT via a NA+T given the price differences. There never was, but there still isn't now.
    1 point
  4. If you are speaking about RB26 spec GTSS turbo dimensions then that is correct Just for another layer of confusion there was also an SR20 spec version of the GTSS but it had the larger NS111 53.8mm 76 trim version of the GT28 turbine . Same as your turbos had . Back to the RB26 style GTSS turbos . These use a cropped version of the GT28 NS111 turbine so they'd measure 53.8mm 62 trim . The smaller trim means they have a smaller exducer and outlet diameter than the 707160-5 turbos . Also to these part numbers . Often on the turbos ID tag there are inconstancies . For example one of these turbos may have 707160-5 , another identical one may have 707160-5005 . Often people , and Garrett , quote turbos by a dash number ie -9 or -7 or- 5 . It makes life difficult . Anyway the best way I can describe GT25 and GT28 BB turbos is by their turbine dimensions and their number of blades . 11 blades can mean GT25 OR GT28 turbines . The 53mm outside diameter ones are GT25 . The 53.8mm outside diameter ones are GT28 . The GT25 11 bladed turbine is generally 62 trim . The BASE model GT28 turbine is also generally 62 trim . The GT28 NS111 9 bladed turbine , remember - GT28 turbine 53.5mm OD , comes in two trim sizes . Most were 76 trim BUT there was a special version in 62 trim for specific applications . Note that this NS111 62 trim turbine has almost exactly the same dimensions as the 11 bladed GT28 turbine - 53.8mm OD 62 trim . As far as I know the cropped 62 trim NS111 turbine was only available in two turbos , firstly the RB26 style GTSS/707160-9/707160-5009 (all same) , and secondly the GT2854R . I found a link to details of that GT2854R and they kindly have pics of the differences between the GT2554R and GT2854R turbines , totally different 11 and 9 blade forms . https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2011/03/garrett-gt28r-gt2859r-56-trim-310-hp.html Cheers A .
    1 point
  5. So just spent another loads of dosh on r35 brakes, probably should of just bought an r35 lol. Got a great deal on these and ive just ordered the supertec racing fitting kit. was looking into the hypertune kit but this was uk made and ready to go in stock. These will be fitted after martin has done the engine swap as if i fit them now i have no way to make sure theyre working preoperly before he starts mapping/ road testing the car.
    1 point
  6. Partial to docking myself. Beats an elbow bump, that shit is gay.
    1 point
  7. Heres a pic of the car as it sat a year or so ago. it obviously now has an empty engine bay ready for the vr, only other mod so far is a dc5 integra recaro i picked up off a mate for the drivers seat.
    1 point
  8. Ha ha, I hate when I mistype words, I'm such a clutz!
    1 point
  9. Right so I'm either dumbest, most gullible person on the planet or a fiercely brave groundbreaker! I've ordered the Speedtek gearset and will hopefully see it early to mid December. I got the assurances I felt I needed from him (Alex) and I also spoke to a guy in NZ with a 610kW R33 GT-R running the gearset. He's run a 9.7 sec quarter mile on it. I specifically asked him about a) the service he received from Alex and b) the product itself including fitment. This guy had nothing bad to say. Alex's remarks (be they right or wrong) were that at this point he wasn't too fussed about chasing work in Australia at this point (maybe he realises he's burnt too many bridges here and minimal chance of recovery?) as the majority of his gearsets are heading to drifters/racers overseas and the number of them he's currently selling are the capacity of his workshop anyway so he probably wouldn't be able to handle much more in the way of capacity. If anyone wants to know, I got the 1-5 gearset with a 0.7 ratio 5th gear and their billet centre plate. All up it was $4200 including post (*** if my wife is reading this I'm actually grossly exaggerating, I got it all for $420 and fitment was free.... But, if I'm dead and you're selling my shit to afford a bood job, it WAS worth $4200 plus about another $1000 to get it further treated and assembled, send me a photo and make sure you look after the kids xx.***). It's an expensive gamble and I'll be pooping myself until the first time I dump the clutch at full noise! I'll be 100% honest throughout the whole thing. If I get effed over and I've blown $4200 I'll admit it and admit that I'm a moron for disregarding everyones warnings. If everything goes to plan and it does everything I'm hoping it will do, I'll admit it and will sing the praises of the product and the service I have received so far. On that note, I cannot fault his contact from initial contact to the point of me making the payment. This includes some pretty late hours responses to my fairly confronting questions regarding his ownership of any dramas. So far, so good. Stay tuned for full disclosure!
    1 point
  10. As I had gone to the effort of getting higher end custom coilovers. I wanted to make sure I was setting them up right with the car's main use case in mind. Going fast on track while still being a "street car". Now the following setup guide might be overkill in the information department but i hope it to be useful for anyone looking to do a similar install. That said, my opinions and theories for coilover setup may not align with your own. With that out of the way... The first step was to set the shock body length so that at full bump there wouldn't be any significant interference with the body. To do this I disassembled the coilover, removed the spring and bump stop, fitted the aircup and reassembled the coilover. Without the spring and bump stop fitted, the coilover was put into the car. The LCA was then jacked up so that all of the shocks stroke was used. Then the bottom mount was adjusted so that at full compression the wheel was still able to rotate freely. For the front I also checked clearance throughout the steering arc. Make a note of the total shock body length and do not make this any shorter. As any shorter the wheel would be able to make contact with the body before using all of the available travel. This was done once for the front and rear then the body length copied to the other side. Assuming my guards are flared/rolled/mounted the same… haha… the shock body length is correct to allow for full use of the shocks stroke. Now it was finally time to assemble the coilovers and aircups. The bump stop was cut down with guidance from Shockworks to compensate for the change of usable stroke length. Spring reinstalled. The normal rubber spring locator was unable to be relocated to inside the aircup as the dimensions did not fit. As i did not want metal on metal contact for noise and wear another set of the plastic/teflon washers used on the lower spring seat were placed between the aircup and the spring. Shockworks were able to supply me with another set quickly and at short notice. So shout out again to them. On my particular coilovers the normal spring seat is on the top hat. As the new spring seat is the aircup which has now moved down the coilover to be on the shaft the effective top hat position has been moved by 40mm. As a comparison my old ISC coilovers the spring seat was lower due to the tophat design. Pictured below are two coilovers, one with the air cup and one without. They have the exact same bottom mount position (and shockbody length) with the spring installed with zero preload. It is easy to see how much "max lowness" adjustment you lose (40mm in my case). So the compromise for installing the aircups is: 40mm “max low” lost 20mm stroke lost Now the springs configured were 20mm shorter so effectively that leaves us with: 20mm “max low” lost 20mm stroke lost
    1 point
  11. Ok so I misinterpreted timing on the gearset.... Going to be 4 or 5 weeks which will suck balls as probably won't get it all back from Neat till next year now 😪. I'll get the centre plate through them now that the wait is longer. Got my manifold back today. I'm happy with it but it's just not exactly how I hoped it would come out. It was supposed to be shadow chrome but its like the transparent black isn't transparent enough so its now sort of a metallic dark grey. Ah well, its unique! Covers my welds a bit so all good!
    1 point
  12. Gearbox is great and most likely the best mod I have done to the car, yeah they cost a lot but with the way I treat the car it needs one. My partner takes in on the track and she drives it just fine if anything she needs to be abit harder on it
    1 point
  13. RB26 Stock cams, manifolds, dumps N1 turbos with billet wheels Link G4+ Break-in tune, 17 psi Crappy Canadian pump gas Sold the car before turning it up more. Would have been a solid 430+whp setup
    1 point
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