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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/11/2021 in all areas

  1. Haven't been very active lately updating my other build threads, mainly because of this car consuming most of my spare time over the last year or so. Here it is, completely unintentional, another single turbo R32 GTR that I'm building up / restoring which is now a 3rd GTR to take all my time and money. It's a November 1989 BNR32 which was originally a KH2 grey one that was resprayed to 326 white at some stage. This is actually a joint project between myself and my father Lyle, so this is going to be his GTR as I really have my hands full already with my own 32 and 33. The history on the car is a bit non existent, but basically the old man wanted a project now he has officially retired. He already has a WRX and an FG XR6, but wanted another GTR as he'd sold his previous KH2 1992 R32 GTR about 8 or 9 years ago for around $25k - and has been kicking himself ever since for not keeping it. So after a bit of searching we decided to obtain this GTR which was located in Sydney with a damaged engine. We flew over to inspect it in June 2019, said ok and went halves in it. Had to be shipped back to us in the NT not running at about $2500 alone. When it finally got here in August 2019, got it back to his house and inspected it properly - we both looked at each other and went "What the F have we just done ?!". Basically the car is heap of shit and will require a massive amount of work. Dad, you wanted a project - well you sure as hell have one now.... So up it goes onto the stands. Engine out and disassemble, gearbox out and disassemble - strip everything from engine bay. Problems we found (I'll keep it short for now): -Main and big end bearings on #1 completely stuffed -A few cracked piston rings -Crankshaft damaged, not salvageable -Water pump corroded and almost seized -Motor was not even bolted onto engine mounts ! Completely freeballin ! -Engine sump completely wrecked. Had been drilled out at the back and destroyed - guess someone tried to change an oil pump without removing the engine from the car and couldn't get to the rear main seal properly -Everything crappily resprayed black. I mean everything. Intake plenum, intake manifold, intake air chamber balance tube etc.etc.etc. -Completely blocked radiator -Transmission completely stuffed on input shaft gear, 1st gear synchro and main gear, 2nd gear synchro and main gear and all bearings stuffed. Gearbox loom damaged. -All wheel bearings and hubs destroyed -All ECU and engine bay wiring in poor condition. Had a link G4 in it that looked like a 10 year old thought was good enough install. Too much to mention but stuff like poor injector connectors with wires pulling out to stuff totally not installed or missing (eg. the entire knock sensor and oil pressure / temp harness missing ? Obviously no knock sensors installed either.) -Vacuum lines missing or plugged everywhere, absolutely no clutch or brake booster vacuum assist connected. -All brake pads and rotors destroyed -All brake calipers seized and leaking -Rooted suspension bushes and components everywhere -Crappy exhaust setup. No plumbed in external gate - had gate outlet pointing directly to chassis in engine bay, no cat, restrictive varex muffler, poor and inadequate hanger anount -Had twin Walbro 460 pumps, both stuffed. Wiring completely inadequate also for the setup. -Fuel system half assed installation. Stupid Bosch 2000cc gas injectors installed, AN8 single feed to single entry rail using the factory poxy 5/16" hardline return on a crappy FPR800 fuel reg with 1/8NPT line fittings. Restrictive return ? Nah, not at all ! -Crushed chassis rails -Crushed outer sills. Really bad at front -Damaged headlights on housings, mounts etc. Headlight wiring loom butchered. Headlight sub harnesses missing. -Damaged at.... oh wait, I was going to keep it short. Anyway there's much more stuff that I'll mention later but basically the last 2 dropkick owners and the crappy Sydney workshops (some who I see regularly mentioned as being good and frequently used on SAU) who worked on this car need their arses kicked and shouldn't be own or be anywhere near RB26s or a GTR. Clearly the abortionists that worked on and modified (I mean butchered) this car had absolutely no idea. Something drastic labour and parts wise is needed ASAP. Anyway there was no use whinging about it, basically this was going to need to be a complete ground up restoration of everything now. Time to get to it and start repairing things. First things first was to build up a new long engine for this thing - the easy part really.
    2 points
  2. Guys I've got a used Velo GPT-2 fixed back for sale. (see Velo site for size chart, GPT-2 is XL) Its just too tight for me. Its in fair condition (one small, 5mm hole in material), missing the bottom cushions, which can be bought from Velo. Structurally its good. Comes with alloy side mounts. Located Bomaderry/Wollongong. $300
    1 point
  3. I may end up in the "lost half my car due to my wife leaving me" club if i did that
    1 point
  4. F**k Covid can’t stop the beavers! Got a 800hp rb that needs some love so the show must continue through the -30 lol
    1 point
  5. Will cut for parts! I’ve owned my small little company busybeavertreeservices.ca since hischool, Sometimes you gotta black right out to pay for parts! Jobs like these are gold for getting builds done, this is my other passion than my family and my cars. The trees keep a guy well and out of trouble!
    1 point
  6. So i picked up a 370z gearbag yesterday from nippon auto parts in derby. as you can see next to the r35 bell housing it is almost exactly the same. There is some minor alterations that martin will do to make it bolt right on and then use a custom flywheel and clutch combo.
    1 point
  7. Hi mate. Replace that shit ASAP. Please tell me you never used the factory return line, as it reduces down to about 4mm in the cradle, not the best to be honest. That is way too close for terminal separation when pumps fail. Could've been done much better in the wiring, just glad it didn't fail on you. Aren't you going a surge tank ? Why the FPG twin in tank setup, when the single FPG top hat will be sufficient when running external pumps from a surge tank ?
    1 point
  8. Small update! I've swapped the head studs on the car, first time doing that, have a whole thread on that experience... It's scary doing it for the first time, as it makes no sense how those nuts can take so much torque! Few parts have arrived, got a new exhaust manifold from hypergear, it's a standard manifold with an external wastegate fitting. Nice little kit and very good price. Came with a Hyper-gate 45. Unsure yet if I will leave as a screamer or plumb it back. Also while the valve covers were off, I gave them a clean up and painted them wrinkle black. The little parts washer I had made this super easy to prep. Considering how cheap they are, they are definately with the $80 they cost. Also my new venom cat with a 5 inch body arrived, looks to be really good quality and price was very reasonable. Just waiting on some new exhaust studs, some parts to block off my internal wastegate and then I'll start putting the car back together and hopefully get it retuned and meet my new power goals also got a full genuine Nissan gasket kit, amazing how much cheaper it is to buy it as a full kit, was around 245 and comes with everything except the half moons. Was going to cost me more than that just to buy the turbo gaskets, copper washers, intake gasket and cam seals seperately... So at least I have spares of all the seals I haven't replaced now, including a head gasket.
    1 point
  9. Can't really see the point in paying Driftworks prices when there are exactly as good options locally.
    1 point
  10. Your 6466 will come on way faster then the -5s, I went from -5s to a 6466 .84ts and it’s all in at least 500rpm earlier
    1 point
  11. The rivets seem to fit much tighter the higher you get your leg up in the air. Very important if you can get both legs up in the air even better. Carbon exhaust shield to cover up the bunged burnt area from my exhaust
    1 point
  12. Okay guys I have finally sourced the appropriate sensor for the RB25DE gearbox. I now have an RB25DE/RB20det, RB25det and RB30DE sensor. To save any people the future hassle of going through this please see the below photos of the sensors next to each other. I will attach photos of dimensions to so you can know what you're after. The RB25DE sensor is indeed shorter than the 25DET sensor and has 21 teeth on the purple pinion head as opposed to the 20 teeth on the 25DET red pinion head. The RB30DE speed sensor is the greeny/blue pinion head and has a OD of only 28mm as opposed to the RB25 sensors which both have an OD of 30mm to enter the gearbox.
    1 point
  13. Seriously no one cares about YouTube channel builds. get over your fascination of YouTube and Insta likes. The world has been playing with these for 30 years. All the info is out there, we don’t need Americans with limited knowledge trying to make videos your dad is smart, you should listen to him. A stock gtr is extremely slow and boring to drive. Skylines are not the amazing cars you think they are. you are going to end up pouring a small fortune into building a 1000hp car and then honestly you will rarely drive it. Something will constantly be wrong or need attention.
    1 point
  14. How are GTST/GTT's going down hill, sure they may not be as expensive as certain GTR models. But it if you look around the forsale sites. if anything their slightly on the rise. the point of 400kw figure skating.....well it's a mans sport. You can have as much trouble selling a poorly heavily modded GTR too, no one wants someone elses thrashed out modded car. Sloppy seconds! Screw delvelopment give them to the U.S they are old cars, everyone that wanted one has probably already had it or moved on. It's not as if they were forged out of the last remaining samurai swords and trimmed with dugong forskin leather.
    1 point
  15. Given that that doesn't make sense, you can see why I'd ask. Did the original auto box have a speed sensor that was wired up to the undercar loom? Have you considered wiring up the speed sensor on the manual tranny to the original undercar loom? I will point out that I don't know about the R34s autos in particular......but on an R33 manual gearbox there is just two wires from the speed sensor. These give a 0-5v square pulse that is wired direct to the speedo head. The speedo head translates that to a sawtooth (AC signal) at a lower voltage that is sent to the ECU and any other controllers that need speed signal, like HICAS, ABS etc. The speedo sensor on the R34 manual should be the same. BUT....the fact that you also have a speed sensor on the diff, that is somehow giving you a 50% pulse rate to the speedo head is a very strange thing. I'm not sure how they would have wired that up to work if it also needs a gearbox sensor. Just too strange. On the topic of the auto ECU....how the hell can this be true? The Neo turbo ECU (if auto) has the TCU built into the ECU. The Neo NA ECUs do not, they rely on a separate TCU. You cannot run the Neo turbo engine off the NA ECU. So, if what you are saying is that you have the engine running off a proper Neo turbo ECU and you still also have the old auto TCU box in the car, then it doesn't matter. That old TCU will not be doing anything. The ECU will ignore anything the TCU tries to tell it and the TCU is not hooked up to anything it can influence (except maybe ABS or traction control perhaps).
    1 point
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