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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/2021 in all areas

  1. Sounds dodgy AF with 7 posts, I'm totally in. BRB bois, let me see if I keep my kidneys after the meet up
    3 points
  2. Tell that to the Sydney guys running high c/r and shoving 40psi+ on big Precision turbos down their RBs throats. E85 anti knock threshold really is that high.
    2 points
  3. No. No one will be tuning to the E85 knock limit as the knock threshold is so high on E85 power and torque gains drop off well before this point. Apart from the power gains, this is the whole crux of using E85 - the knock limit basically not being able to be practically reached.
    2 points
  4. Looks like HKS is floating the idea of retrofitting TJI and reverse flow turbos to the RB26 to improve the packaging with twin turbos. Dual chamber plenum too, to try and improve airflow distribution between the cylinders. Dual injectors to be able to use single cone injectors while reducing fuel impingement on the cylinder head walls. Not mentioned in the video but seemingly also present on the engine are their R35 coil retrofit, cam/crank trigger kit, and exhaust VCAM. I'm sure that engine is probably going to cost as much as the entire car itself if they ever sell it as a complete package.
    1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. Surely school holidays are over by now? ..............
    1 point
  7. I normally leave the box in there and pull the engine
    1 point
  8. That is commitment. I can't believe you guys are pulling the motor and transmission out together like that - crazy stuff man ! Who does that ?! Not saying it's wrong, but why not pull the box out first - you have a hoist ? I know the engine cranes are technically rated for it but far out I'm not that brave ! It's nerve racking enough with a bare long engine hanging off the things, let alone another 130kg+ of transmission hanging off the back !
    1 point
  9. non of this would be possible without help from my old time friend rashid. he is a 20 year fabricator, engine builder, tuner, and project manager ofcar trasnformation like mine. nice quiet guy that has built some really nice supras in the past so i figured id suck him to the dark side of the rb world. we pulled this thing like a couple farmers was nice and entertaining
    1 point
  10. Well we finally got the rb out 5 hours later uhhh duuhhhh pulled I don’t know how many rb’s I seem to forget to take the shifter off everytime lol. Oh well went real quick once I finally realized I forgot to pull the shifter. Went till midnight and we were greeting with some more nice parts. Start stripping motor in am and will keep posted.
    1 point
  11. This is a load of crap. 1. Vertical turbos. Sorry, they ain't vertical. They are no more of an angle than RB26 turbos have been aftermarket mounted for 20 years. 2. TJI as a retrofit? In your dreams bitch. 3. The plenum is very similar to several sketches that I did and can possibly be found posted on peformanceforums about 15 years ago. Granted, I was sketching for a VG30, but it's the same idea had by me and probably 20000 other people. And the rest of it is nothing that hasn't been done by the rest of the aftermarket industry for years. The ignition mods for example. The only place where HKS has ever led in this area is the VCAM stuff.
    1 point
  12. Sat down with a good old excel last night and it's clear to me, buying another car is the most cost effective method, regardless of which shell I end up putting the engine in. Ideally I'd put it in my car for the history and all that, but it will just depend on what I come across. So keep your eyes out for something suitable - big brakes, cd009 or z33 box, good diff, wide, 10" rims, and ideally something SR based so I can re-use parts of the hot/cold side maybe? Full cage good if bolt in or the shell is better than mine. In the meantime, I'll press on with the shed, get a hoist in.
    1 point
  13. Been there done that. First thing you should do is cover/seal that pod filter, or install standard airbox. Sucking in hot air does nothing positive for your engine. Sell your 3" exhaust and buy a GTS1/2 style exhaust manifold (6 to 2 to 1). . Buy two fat mufflers with 2.25" ends, then take it to your nearest decent exhaust shop and ask them to make you an exhaust with mandrel bends. Sound done. Get a 'hotter' camshaft and Nistune. Install and tune. Upgrade suspension and brakes. Replace all flogged out bushes (e.g. rear trailing arms). Also invest in a working LSD. Learn how to drive, go to track days etc. Once you're confident, sell the car or go all out on a turbo build. There's a whole forum dedicated to your car https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/
    1 point
  14. Is anyone else planning on trying to get TJI working on an RB26? I think that piece alone would allow for quite substantial gains in knock margin. Mahle has a marketing summary here: https://www.mahle-powertrain.com/media/mahle-powertrain/experience/mahle-jet-ignition/mahle-jet-ignition-product-information.pdf "Stoichiometric operation (λ≈1.0) (conventional after-treatment utilised) • Rapid, stable combustion enables high dilution tolerance allowing high EGR rates • Enhanced efficiency and λ≈1.0 operation at high loads • Compatible with Miller-cycle operation • Knock reduction (enables high CR operation)"
    1 point
  15. the americans will lap it all up for the jdm fanboi points
    1 point
  16. Well a nice casual -44 today lol so no trees went for a nice rip in the ol rusty sti and Finally got my full valve train from super tech today. Double valve springs, super tech valves, buckets,guides, blah blah. Once the kelford 272 10 lift cams show up will have the head finished. Big box of prp parts showed up today too sooo some nice rb26 porn in that box too I’ll post it once I crack the cardboard open.
    1 point
  17. March to about Sep this year I was watching the Auctions closely (I was looking at buying an BCNR33) - I live in Japan so I ended up buying a private gem - but I remember the auction prices were basically increasing week in week out = so actually it's just increased alot maybe due to people having more spare cash and at the same time US and Australian import laws allowing more cars to be exported to those countries. There's still alot of nice cars out there in Japan, but some of the nicer ones, the owners and some dealers would be reluctant at putting through auctions, as they want them to be kept in Japan. It's an interesting phenomena which I guess makes the "good condition" cars in the auctions even more valuable.
    1 point
  18. I wasted so much money on the Frenchy's Performance Garage tool. I'm sure it's great if your balljoints are in good condition, but I ended up stripping the coupler nut, and bending the threads on the balljoint trying to use their removal tool. I basically ended up doing the exact same thing as this guide to remove mine, and they came out like butter. I used a torch to heat the knuckle up for around 60 seconds, and I used my 36mm axle nut socket as the retainer. I then used a thick washer on the back first, before putting a 14mm socket on the back to push it the rest of the way. This process took about 15-20 minutes per side, compared to the hours I spent trying different methods. Using the 36mm socket it has the dpeth that you don't need to grind the end of the balljoint off either.
    1 point
  19. So at this point it was really starting to get close, but as the engine bay started to fill up there were other considerations to be made, and things like the lower radiator hose were in awkward positions (relative to where they needed to go in the LS). This now bolts to the car, effectively making sure the coolant hose can't move/rub/touch on anything and wear through and really, really, really ruin future-me's day. As far as we could tell.. there was no reason there was a huge cutout on that side of the gearbox. Now there's no hole there and that is about as pretty as it needed to be. Finally an actual use for that putty weld stuff. Needed a throttle cable obviously as the OEM one does not fit as the throttle has moved a sizable distance from factory. A universal one from EFISolutions did the trick, with a nifty little bracket. The Universal Cable has the right fitting to the back of the R34 Skyline pedal. Win Win. Simple pod filter setup is simple. Simple intake pipe (4in) is now black because ewww that rust was not great. Dangerous, dangerous facebook post that appeared right about the time we were fitting the aforementioned intake. Would it ... fit? How good is SAU's view of spatial awareness here. I have this feeling commodore bays are larger there but the space was unused..... No, I didn't buy it....but you know how these things rattle around in the brain! This little guy to sit in my radiator hose to give me my water temp sensors back. Lovely. Now for the oil temp sender, we'll just put that one in the oil block I referred to ages ago, which has fittings for a sensor, as well as the hoses for the oil cooler. Well f**k! Luckily a shorter one exists, was ordered, showed up about a week later after thinking of any other way to mount it. The only other logical place was where oil pressure was going to go... but I wanted the OEM pressure to work... so... f**k. At this point I was getting keen, as it was about time to put oil, fluids in the car now that they would... stay in. I even had the joy of going to Autobarn and simply buying a belt off a shelf because LS1. I also bought new water temp sensors, and various other LS1 sensors "while I'm there" because LS1. Was I needlessly excited about being able to just randomly buy stuff that fits from a random autobarn? Yes. I grumbled though about the price (it was about $120) and i thought "Man, I would have been happier if this belt was like $90 or something..." Lets just put that belt o- F**k! Someone stupid (me) may have forgotten that I had a 25% underdrive balancer. I also found out that this means I need a shorter than standard belt. Luckily Autobarn actually were happy to return the belt, and order in a belt size that I needed. The best part about that was, the replacement belt was about $30 cheaper. Something that DID fit (and also done in a day, for $300) was the modifications to the tailshaft. And just to finish off, time to plumb the catch can in. Close up of un-necessarily silly fittings. What kind of idiot spends $120 on one fitting for a catch can.....and something like $300 in total for just plumbing in the can.... ? At this point we were basically done! Coming to a very very crunch time, as I had booked in the tow truck and the next stage of operations (exhaust, and 'wiring') were ready to take the car tomorrow night. Doing my best to not be a shit bloke, I had wanted the car to be ready for them to ONLY do "wiring" (which seemed like a near impossible, up in the air, magical task) and making the exhaust, to which we were still super skeptical of "how the fk can this actually fit". I even had pre-bought the HPTuners MPVI2 (am now a huge fan of this and its software, relative to Haltech but it could be because it's interfacing with an OEM ecu so it supports... everything...) and credits to unlock the ecu, tune the car, get it running out of the shop once magicians did magician things.....if it actually.... worked.. when the key was attempted to be turned.. But certainly didn't want to add to their confusion and work. So in doing so we were going through a lot of things, "have we done this up, we've plumbed that in, etc" and quite a few of these: BTW the official drink of LS conversions into R34's is officially one shot of coffee patron and one shot of tequila. It's a really good mix. Anyway, during this triple check of things we found out that we had no fuel pressure regulator. At all. The Commo has a regulator in the tank as it's not a return system. The skyline has one on the engine. All our nice braided and measured lines and we had no FPR , at all, at 9pm thursday night when the car is being picked up Friday arvo. F*** One sick day later, and said day spent frantically checking if anyone in Melbourne had a FPR in stock, that we could have, in our hand, right now later, we had a FPR bought, installed, and ready to go!! It was a little sentimental when it left Mikey's place - This may have all come in a flurry of posts and pictures, but the truth of it is this took 10 months and 6 days between first starting to pull the RB out and the car being towed to its next home, the amount of work and time and especially thinking time was immense. As I alluded to before, simply dropping the box and engine in was the easy part. The thinking about what option for XYZ thing and "Where do you want to route this" or "Time to do some research on XYZ" was by far the biggest timesink/drain in doing something like this. .......and there was still much to be done from this point on!
    1 point
  20. ^ Nope. It's not that line. The only line that is supposed to be in that area runs from the top port of the purge control solenoid at the rear of the coil cover, to the top port of the charcoal canister at the front of the bay.
    1 point
  21. Here it is mate, hopefully helps http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=thermo
    1 point
  22. Dont install two small ones unless you use the EF/EL setup that comes with the shroud. Other than that a single 16" fits the factory shroud and will flow as much if not more than the factory crank fan. Theres a DIY that gives the part number for the radiator sensor you'll need as well if you chose not to use a fan controller.
    1 point
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