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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/15/2021 in all areas

  1. hey guys , I'm an American, car enthusiast , drift car enthusiast. I've been slowly working/collecting parts for my s13 hatch project. I've recently bought an RB25DE that came out of an auto r32 sedan. non VCT non turbo rb25 are really rare here, most people don't even know there is an rb25 without vct. so i've been doing loads of research and i end up here a lot! I just wanted to say thanks! and if you have any advise so on id love to hear it. im a diesel mechanic, so i can more or less can tear into about anything.
    2 points
  2. it's a service button. Automatically drops the engine and gearbox out when doing a major service; the icon is a warning to stand clear. Wouldn't press it if i was you.
    2 points
  3. It is a piece of metal, you could put that in a chamber and pressurise it to 1000's of PSI, or KPa's and it will be fine. You will never kill it with boost.
    1 point
  4. But....but....here's the thing. You have wheels. You know their specs. You know how they sit. You can get under the car and measure clearances to internal components exactly. So why are you asking what will fit? You can work it out for yourself with a dressmaker's tape measure and arithmetic.
    1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. Please talk in kW... we aren't American. If you want to talk in HP, make sure you convert everything else into the useless imperial system. 450kW for a built motor would be a walk in the park, I would be more concerned about your gearbox going bang
    1 point
  7. Why is WA still imperial not metric? About 450kw, right? Anyway, assuming it is not racing of some sort, it should be fine for street and twisty driving because you just don't use the whooshy end of the rev range very much at all, perhaps once or thrice a day or week. Gearbox however is at risk depending how you shift when you are pushing the car hard. Take it easy on full power shifts and you should be fine
    1 point
  8. It made me sad to have to throw away the Apexi radiator that came with the car. I couldn't find another one anywhere and I never saw another car with one so maybe it was a bit rare? Either way it was pretty chewed up so in the trash it went. Went with a Koyorad because they were in stock and honestly it is a pretty nice piece. I liked the Apexi drain position much better but I can change that one day. New rad, shroud, and fan installed. I talked with a friend of mine who has a Vibrant intercooler core and looked over his logs. His IATs were ridiculously cooler than mine for similar boost levels. I had a hunt for a new bolt-in intercooler as that was the last thing I could think to do to get my MPH where I thought it should be. Unfortunately I didn't have the budget for a Hypertune or Plazmaman intercooler. I couldn't even find the right core size that was the same as what I currently had to make my own. I finally found a Garrett core part number list burried on the internet and they offered a bar and plate core that was almost the exact dimensions of my current core. My supplier had one in the whole country in stock and I got it. I was about at my wit's end with getting the MPH out of this car so if this didn't work I didnt know what to do. Some had suggested 10.5mm or more lift was needed but I couldn't justify the cost. Got the core in and my intercooler off. Decided to reuse my end tanks to save time and money. Gave the front a light coat of black paint and installed. I'd always wanted to do my own test on upgrading an intercooler and this was going to be a pretty great comparison. Literally the only thing changing was the core itself. But then I said screw the testing, I need to get this thing to MPH around 145 so I pulled the headlight as well. I had ot try all options. Went back to the track and DA was around 1300. Lower but not so much lower that it would throw off testing. Ambient temp was around 65 so a bit cooler. Made an aborted first pass because engine protection kicked in due to low oil pressure at launch. Oops, I forgot to refill the oil after the last track day. Thank goodness for engine protection! I have it set right up against known good oil pressure when full so it doesn't have to strop far to activate. Put a quart in and went back out. This was the first full pass. Another angle. When I shifted into fourth a few hundred feet before the traps instead of right at the traps I knew it was significantly quicker. I was telling myself 9.8? 9.7? I didn't want to get my hopes up because I'd done that too many times before. It had to be good though. The 60' felt fantastic and I shifted into fourth much earlier so it had to be good. When I got back my dad handed me the slip and shook his head and wasn't smiling. He goes, "nope, only like a 10.7 or something". Well that shattered my mood. Then I looked at the slip. What a jerk! So as far as I am aware this is now the quickest H-pattern GTR in North America. And with a stock drivetrain to boot. The second quickest I know of was a 9.46 or so but with a PPG dog engagement up in Canada. I'll post some logs of the before and after intercooler core/headlight testing later but one of the two (or both) made a big difference. 7mph is huge!
    1 point
  9. Definitely get an OEM or Chargespeed (spelling?) bumper. That thing is hideous.
    1 point
  10. Define usage model and how many miles you expect out of it. An engine that can make 600rwhp but spends 99% of it's life driving to and from the shops is nothing like something getting drifted by a backward flatbrim vape addict. Know what I mean?
    1 point
  11. 6boost give life time warranty on their manifolds except if you heat wrap them
    1 point
  12. Some pics...been too long between drinks!!!!
    1 point
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