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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/17/2021 in all areas

  1. Well it's been a while sins my last update. The 3.2L bottom end is all finished and with me. Body is just about done to. Engine bay will be the same colour as the exterior of the car. All going well, ill be at Cootamundra and Bathurst at the end of the year.
    3 points
  2. No flex on any. L or D jetro version also does not have ignition cut either, both fuel cut. The Power FC PRO had the ignition cut and launch control, which was a modified version of the L jetro. I have had all three versions on my blue GTR. Remember you can't Nistune a 33 ECU either. Man up and get an Elite 2000 or 2500 👍
    1 point
  3. I don't think he'll reply Joined December 12, 2018 Last visited December 12, 2018
    1 point
  4. Thats why its just easier to buy from Herman even if it is a bit more. At least that way you know its already tested and what it can handle. Rd28 is a lot of f**king around but worth it if you weren't already down the 2.8 rabbit hole
    1 point
  5. I'm trying to say, that all these stuff you will have in your phone. Please, look at pictures with boost control settings page.
    1 point
  6. I answered your question but I will expand regarding the Link. The only thing required from the engine control unit for the R34 GTR to retain ABS and 4WD is a throttle position output from the engine management computer from pin 37 on the original ECU. A GTT also has this output from factory. Whether you are cable or electronic throttle makes no difference - it is a separate output from ECU to ABS TCU / ATTESA control unit that sends a throttle position % output signal. On a Haltech Elite they do this via DPO2 which is routed through to the original ECU connector pin and even mapped, allocated and setup in the R34 GTT or GTR base map. An Apexi Power FC even does this so it retains ABS or 4WD. That said according to the Link G4X R34 GTT manual ( http://linkecu.com/documentation/NGTTX.pdf ) on page 16 the original pin 37, listed as 4WD out even on a GTT is said to be disconnected and not used. This seems pretty strange as I can't imagine Link would not enable it if it was required for ABS functionality, but never the less interesting that Haltech and even a Power FC retain this output. You need to contact Link to clarify why it isn't used, as in, does the ABS not need a TPS output from the ECU on an R34 GTT to function, with only an R34 GTR needing this output for 4WD functionality ? (which it absolutely does on a GTR). Or you could just forget about a Link, buy a Haltech and know either way that the R34 GTT or GTR ABS / 4WD signal is supported and will work regardless and have miles better technical support than Link.
    1 point
  7. Oh yes much better, thanks Prank.
    1 point
  8. Check all the small coolant hoses around the inlet manifold, heater hoses, etc, and the big rad hoses to see if any are likely to to explode and leave you stranded with a cooked engine. Take along a selection of heater hose and small bore hose and some clamps if you're even more paranoid, plus coolant, etc.
    1 point
  9. Keep on topic or you get a holiday.
    1 point
  10. change all Oils & filters, check coolant and make sure its bled properly, spark plugs, brake fluid & check pads, inspect hoses and belts. Windscreen wipers too I drove my HG gts from Adelaide to Townsville after sitting in a shed for 22years just did the above and had no major dramas.......
    1 point
  11. HP, similar to measuring your penis from your anus instead of from the base. Still same size, just one has a perceived higher value. We live in Australia, please stop using HP. We are not stupid Americans.
    1 point
  12. ewww... Minimum requirement is Nistune with Feature Pack. Has launch control, flex fuel, boost control OR WMI control (use the 3D boost table to control the WMI).
    1 point
  13. R32 GTR CP Pistons 86.5mm 9:0:1 N1 Oil Pump w/ SPOOL Spline Driven Billet Gears Manley H-Beam Rod w/ 2/8" ARP 2000 ACL Main Bearings ARP Head/Main Studs SuperTech 70lbs Single Valve Spring w/ Titanium Retainers ECU Masters EMU Black HKS 2530s rebuilt with billet wheels Radium Fuel Rail ID 1050 Injectors (Resistor Box Deleted) Aeromotive FPR Frenchy's (FPG) Fuel Pump Assembly w/ Baffles Walbro 455 Uni-Group 260/260 10.9mm lift Tomei Adjustable Cam Gears 512 WHP at 15 PSI 357 ft lb TQ(E85) 569 WHP at 20 PSI 396 ft lb TQ(E85)
    1 point
  14. Another round of Don Mega/NASA. FFS here we go listening to this toilet water again.
    1 point
  15. And there are better engine builders in Australia and I’ll be sticking to one of them
    1 point
  16. Last night I wasn’t sure if I had done some serious damage to my arm or not, I woke up this morning at it was still sore but still able to move it so guess it’s ok. today i decided to take an rdo cause I was super keen on getting work done on the car, I pulled the clutch off, pull the front shafts and undid the mounts and pulled it out and threw it on a stand that engine bay is a mess, I plan on fixing that while the engine is out Ready to start stripping it down
    1 point
  17. Popped down to Sydney on Saturday to pick up my 3 pallet loads of parts and my girls refurbished motor, Cheryl's engine is now home, thank god. I have to control myself as my plans at the moment do not include getting her in and running quickly, just nice to have her home.
    1 point
  18. Started pulling the engine down today and everything looks clean without any sludge and etc, got the head off and after you turned the gasket over you could see the gasket had blown between 6 and the exhaust side water gallery. Unfortunately that turned out to be the least of my problems and so far I’ve found 3 cracks in the deck of the block between 2 of the head bolt holes and water jackets so it’s a bin job and the search begins 😞
    0 points
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